How to put an LSx into a fox car. - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 80 Old 09-28-2009, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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How to put an LSx into a fox car.

This thread is going to describe in detail exactly how I put the LS2 drivetrain into my '91 mustang. I know there are several different ways to accomplish the same results and I'll try to touch on what I know, but I'm mainly going to stick to what I have personally done with my car in my garage. Save the drama for you moma and go talk about cleveland heads, building motors on your tailgate, and tuning with only a flathead screwdriver for another day. This is strictly for information about the LSx swap process and not if it's a good idea or not. Now that that's out of the way, onto the tech....


Once you have obtained your choice of LSx engine and fox car you probably want to know how to mount the GM engine into the Ford chassis. Surprisingly the LSx fits into the fox platform very well. It is an extremely compact engine and this is much less work than it seems. Regardless of the LSx engine you decide to use, you will more than likely want to get and F-body oil pan because it fits the best in the fox chassis IMO. Some guys have used the truck pans, but they do hang down lower and you really gain nothing in return unless it is free or you just have it lying around. I used the F-body pan. I also used my existing MM K-member and built my first set of engine mounts from used ford 4.6 mod motor mounts and some 67-72 Duster/Demon/Dart mounts. They worked fine, but I ended up building another set out of F-body poly "clamshell" poly mounts and making adapters that fit these mounts to the K-member.

AJE now makes a k-member for mustangs with LSx mounts already on it and it looks like a pretty decent piece. I would not use one on my car because I have larger brakes/front tires and drive it on the street a lot. I'm sure it would be fine for a drag/grudge car or a cruiser. Here is the first set of mounts I built. I might have a few pictures of the new set I built, but I'll have to dig them up later. I built my mounts to place the engine as low and far back in the engine bay as possible for obvious reasons.


4.6 driver side



in the car



passenger side in the car


Engine in the car. 6.0L of displacement and it sits lower than the stock 5.0 does......


Firewall area


Coil to brake booster clearance. I was worried about this one because I'm running a big SN95 booster for my brakes and thought it would be very close. I was right, but it fits...



I'll post up the next part with the transmission mount later.

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post #2 of 80 Old 09-28-2009, 08:58 AM
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Nice! It'll be a little easier with a manual rack. At least it looks that way.


'80 Fairmont wagon and a MK VII donor car.
Looking for MAF conversion parts.
Looking for 5-spd conversion parts.
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post #3 of 80 Old 09-28-2009, 06:36 PM
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more pics please

"The more friends you have the richer you are, it doesnt matter whats in the bank" - Rick DeKneef (RIP buddy)
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post #4 of 80 Old 09-28-2009, 10:08 PM
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Is there a way to use a front mount motor plate, probably custom made, while still retaining the factory mustang k member?

94 mustang gt- stock 302, vortech v2 s-trim, too slow
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post #5 of 80 Old 09-29-2009, 12:13 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, on to the transmission. I used a T56 transmission from a '05 GTO. There are several different types of tranny's that can go behind an LSx, but they all go in about the same way. I used the factory mustang tranny cross member as my starting point. The GTO tranny mount actually lined up and fit almost perfect into the mount, but since the t56 is quite a bit longer than a T5 I had to change where it attaches to the car. I welded a few tabs onto the subframe connectors just behind the factory mounts that were on the body. I also modified the tranny cross member to clear my 3-inch exhaust while I was messing around with it.







Now since the T56 is longer than the T5 and since I stuffed the engine pretty far back into the engine bay, the shifter location sits very far back. I had to cut the stock hole back a few inches to fit. It is fine for driving and it is not noticeable to me, but don't be surprised if your results vary. I am running a console delete and will be using an 80-86 shifter bezel. The major modification with using the T56 is adapting the clutch linkage to a hydraulic setup. Some people #### all over the hydraulic linkage because they hear about how people have trouble with them, but if they are setup correctly the benefits far out weigh the cons in my opinion. I am using the LS7 clutch and it has a super light pedal feel to it. You could drive this thing all day in traffic and your leg wouldn't even get tired. The key to keeping the hyd. clutch working great is to use decent parts and keep the fluid clean/flushed. I used a Wilwood master cyl and and Earls -3 braided SS hose with AN connectors from Summit. Here are the p/n's along with the hose:

WIL-260-3374 (1.1 inch stroke/.75 bore)
EAR-63010128ERL (28 inches long)

You will also need this fitting to convert the slave over to -3.

RUS-640281

All of that is about $120 shipped. The master comes with all the fittings you need. I also have a remote bleeder setup so I can bleed the clutch fluid in about 2-3 minutes by myself. I need to get some better pictures of the finished product, but it is all kind of buried in the dash and really not much to look at. One thing I would recommend is to remove the dash and the steering column while fitting all these pieces together. The pedals go in and out much faster with the dash/column out of the way.



These pedals are from a '88 turbocoupe which used a hyd. clutch. It was the best part to start with vs. the stock mustang stuff and it bolts right into the car.







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post #6 of 80 Old 09-30-2009, 12:58 AM
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You don't expect any longevity out of that nut welded to the heim joint on the clutch? Do you?

particularly non-stock 99 Cobra w/brand C motor...
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post #7 of 80 Old 09-30-2009, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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I welded another nut really well and it's been fine for about 2500 miles, but I will probably take a look at it again and see if I can figure something else out.
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post #8 of 80 Old 09-30-2009, 09:28 PM
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What mount is that in the first pic you have up? How hard was it to modify? I don't have a k member or mounts yet. I was thinking about buying the AJE because of cost and the LSX mounts available, but I haven't heard very many good things about AJE.
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post #9 of 80 Old 09-30-2009, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Headers and fuel supply....

I reused my MAC 351W headers with 1 3/4 tubes all I did to the passenger side is cut the ford flanges off and weld on the new lsx style flanges. On the drivers side I had to redo a few of the tubes to clear the steering shaft. Not too hard and while I was at it I took off the ball-socket joint and put a V-band style flange. I left them uncoated just in case I had to change them around once I got the car on the road. So far they've worked perfect. I wish I could find a set of 1 7/8 size headers, but these are fine for me. The flanges are about $40 a pair from any GM dealership (p/n: 12480130) parts department.

Here are some pics of the headers off the car.

Drivers side






Passenger side








For the fuel system I used a C5 corvette filter/regulator from Napa. The C5's fuel filter is also a pressure regulator that regulates the fuel pressure to just where you need it on a lsx engine. (60psi) The best part is they're $48 at any Napa store.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...l+Filter+(Gold)

I mounted the filter in the stock location and rerouted the return right back into the tank just like it was. I went ahead and converted all the fittings over to -6 AN. I brazed most of the fittings on (fuel pickup and fuel rail), but I used a compression/-6AN fitting on the filter. So far this setup has worked perfect with my existing Walbro 255lph pump.
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post #10 of 80 Old 10-01-2009, 12:00 AM
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hey JW33 do you any pics of the rest of the car? the engine bay looks very good and extremely clean! very nicely done.....would love to do this swap in my car


91 LX hatch 5.0
stock motor with a lot of miles and a lot of nitrous
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post #11 of 80 Old 10-01-2009, 05:50 AM
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post #12 of 80 Old 10-01-2009, 07:05 AM
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looks awesome!

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post #13 of 80 Old 10-01-2009, 11:31 PM
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does anyone have any info about putting a ford tko behind an lsx? That is what I'm planning to do this winter...
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post #14 of 80 Old 10-08-2009, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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Alright on to the accesories. I used all the GTO brackets, a GTO crank pulley, GTO power steering pump, and an F-body alternator (way cheaper than the GTO alt). I used Maximum Motorsport rack to AN conversion fittings and had a pressure hose made at my local hydraulic place for about $35-40. I just used some left over -6 braided hose for the return.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...oducts_id=1001

I used a stock F-body radiator/fans and it fits perfect, even with the mustang brackets. I bent a coat hanger into the shape of the radiator hoses and went to the back of the local autoparts store and found what I needed. The air intake tube is a 4-inch 90 degree rubber elbow from the diesel truck place up the road and I had some 4-inch aluminum bends that I made the rest with.

For the electronics and wiring I had several choices, but since my motor in a GEN IV and has a 58x tooth reluctor wheel some of the options were kind of pricey. I used the GM standalone the kit for the LS2 p/n: 19166568. It comes with a harness that is completly labelled, an E67 ECM, DBW (drive by wire) throttle pedal, (2) O2 sensors with bungs for your headers, an LS7 MAF with the bracket to mount it into your intake tract, and a set of instructions. It also comes with a fuse block that has all the relays and fuses All you do is hook provide the wires for your fuel pump and cooling fans. There is also a MIL, VSS output, Tach output, and Oil pressure output among other things that are in the bulkhead connector that go inside the car along with the diagnostic port. I used all of these outputs for my speedometer, tach, water temp, and oil pressure gauges. I paid $815 shipped from Scoggins Dickey. Everything is labelled, you just plug it in and go.




That's pretty much it as far as I can remember. The car has been very reliable since the conversion and I've put about 2500 trouble free miles on it so far. The only thing I have left to do to the car is put the A/C back on it and redo the interior with sound deadening and a nice stereo. The car already has the MM Maximum Grip box suspension and Cobra spec brakes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WiZ_GqlJHq4





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post #15 of 80 Old 10-18-2009, 08:14 PM
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Sweet build, if you don't mind me asking what cam is in it?
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post #16 of 80 Old 10-18-2009, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Called the "Streetsweeper HT" by FTI. About .60x lift 230-232 duration. Fairly mild for a 6.0 engine these days.
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post #17 of 80 Old 10-19-2009, 04:26 PM
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I'll probaly get ripped for this but I'm just curious if you have a rough estimate on how much this project cost you?

91 lx w/ a couple of bolt on's, s-trim and 464 hp

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post #18 of 80 Old 10-19-2009, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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2700 longblock
2200 tranny/accesories
825 harness
100 radiator/fans
700 fidanza flywheel/LS7 clutch
350 driveshaft/yoke
and a few hundred more in misc crap. I'm in it for about 1500-2K after I sold my old 351 junk.
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post #19 of 80 Old 10-20-2009, 03:03 PM
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That car is goin to MOVEEEE post some vids, awsome car

94 mustang gt- stock 302, vortech v2 s-trim, too slow
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lsx swap soon
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post #20 of 80 Old 10-21-2009, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jw33 View Post
2700 longblock
2200 tranny/accesories
825 harness
100 radiator/fans
700 fidanza flywheel/LS7 clutch
350 driveshaft/yoke
and a few hundred more in misc crap. I'm in it for about 1500-2K after I sold my old 351 junk.
That's less then I would have thought. Look's like it's gonna go pretty damn good too.

91 lx w/ a couple of bolt on's, s-trim and 464 hp

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post #21 of 80 Old 10-21-2009, 04:30 PM
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How is the driveability with that 600 + lift cam? I got a 620 lift cam in my car and cannot drive it under 2500 RPM, it bucks and kicks like a bitc^

1991 Mustang GT
410ci motor under a stock hood.
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post #22 of 80 Old 10-21-2009, 04:38 PM
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what did you have to keep in the car to make the gauges and all the other dash stuff work like a/c knobs heat act or did that new harness take care of that

94 mustang gt- stock 302, vortech v2 s-trim, too slow
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lsx swap soon
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post #23 of 80 Old 10-21-2009, 09:12 PM
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What did your fuel setup consist of or did I over look that?
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post #24 of 80 Old 10-22-2009, 12:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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How is the driveability with that 600 + lift cam? I got a 620 lift cam in my car and cannot drive it under 2500 RPM, it bucks and kicks like a bitc^
The drivability is great IMO. I can lug it along at 14-1500 rpm's in high gear and it doesn't really buck or surge at all.



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what did you have to keep in the car to make the gauges and all the other dash stuff work like a/c knobs heat act or did that new harness take care of that

The harness has a bulkhead connector that gives me VSS, Tach, Oil pressure, and water temp output signals for my electric gauges.
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post #25 of 80 Old 10-22-2009, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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What did your fuel setup consist of or did I over look that?
C5 filter/regulator from NAPA and stock lines.
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post #26 of 80 Old 10-22-2009, 01:11 AM
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DId you have to buy a lot of fittings, I need to crawl under mine and scope things I guess....
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I can't remember exactly what all fittings I bought, maybe 10-15 and they were pretty much all -6AN.
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post #28 of 80 Old 10-23-2009, 04:03 PM
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awesome build
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post #29 of 80 Old 10-25-2009, 03:11 PM
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sweet ride, i'm just starting my foxbody LS Swap now .

91 lx Hatch 6.0(STOCK SHORTBLOCK) LSX 412rwhp
ON 275 RADIALS
10.84 @ 127 on motor
10.18 @ 135 150 shot ( still need tuning)
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post #30 of 80 Old 11-12-2009, 12:48 PM
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Good work. I think you might have just changed my mind on that 408w I was planning on building. You need to check out HPTuners. It will pay off for sure.


I'm intrested in this harness more than anything. It looks like it's pretty clean for being fuel injection stuff. Can you give me any more details on the harness? It is just a stock harness or what. That's the only thing I hate dealing with on fuel injection.
post #31 of 80 Old 11-12-2009, 03:35 PM
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awesome. im still debating whether to go this route or 408w
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post #32 of 80 Old 11-14-2009, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRKSTL2 View Post
How is the driveability with that 600 + lift cam? I got a 620 lift cam in my car and cannot drive it under 2500 RPM, it bucks and kicks like a bitc^
Sounds like you need a better tune!!

OP this is a very nice project, the coupe looks super clean also

88 coupe.
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post #33 of 80 Old 11-15-2009, 09:41 PM
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awesome build! very clean! I'm happy to see some 6 speeds being used in the swaps finally. Besides the article that Popular Hot Rodding did way back when, I've only seen autos used and mostly drag only cars.

Got any more under car pics of the k-member and exhaust?

Why did you go with a GTO trans? Had a GTO donor? What shifter are you using?

Matt
'95 GTS - (no engine) | TR-6060 | 9" w/Tru-Trac | Griggs T/A | MM Panhard | Koni DAs
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post #34 of 80 Old 11-19-2009, 09:54 PM
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Do you have a pic of your gauges? You mentioned electronic gauges. What gauges are you running?
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post #35 of 80 Old 11-20-2009, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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Yes I have HP Tuners-Pro I just haven't had much time to mess with anything lately. The harness is a great deal if you want to just plug it in and go. It has everything you need and it's pretty dam affordable for what it comes with. I did have to have the ECM reflashed with a '06 CTS-V file because it was locked from the factory and I was not able to change anything with HP Tuners. Anyone with a GM Tech tool should be able to do this.

I know of one other guy in Austin who has a 6spd LS1 car. I went with a GTO tranny because that's where I got my intake and engine accesories. A guy bought one that was rolled with the intentions of selling the drivetrain, but it turned out the motor had a spun bearing. He sold me everything off the motor I needed and the tranny. It worked out great for both of us. The GTO tranny has different ratios than what comes in the F-body and a few other small improvements.

I used the MC Machine gauge panel and it is a great looking/fitting part. The carbon fiber autmeter gauges on the other hand are just OK in my opinion. They look great in daylight, but at night I can barely read them. The lighting is terrible.


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