1992 LX The street to track to street again build. - Page 5 - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #141 of 517 Old 05-13-2018, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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I've got a 4" cowl hood on my car due to the 4 barrel type intake, definitely not my favorite style. If I had the typical long runner, something like a Cobra R would be far more aesthetically pleasing.
Who makes the cowl hood you have on your car? I've heard Cervinis makes a good one I also saw another company called HO Fibertrends that people say are good.

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post #142 of 517 Old 05-13-2018, 11:51 AM
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I bought a Boss Cobra R hood for the car, very high quality, and I love the style of the thing. But it wasn't even close to fitting with an old school 14" air cleaner on top of the 4 barrel style intake/throttle body I'm running without some serious modification. I was worried cutting so much out of the hood would compromise structural integrity. So I did better research, ended up with the HO Fibertrends hood. I'm happy with the quality of the HO hood, not quite as nice as the Boss hood, but it fit my needs quite well.

Jay

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post #143 of 517 Old 05-13-2018, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by petmotel View Post
I bought a Boss Cobra R hood for the car, very high quality, and I love the style of the thing. But it wasn't even close to fitting with an old school 14" air cleaner on top of the 4 barrel style intake/throttle body I'm running without some serious modification. I was worried cutting so much out of the hood would compromise structural integrity. So I did better research, ended up with the HO Fibertrends hood. I'm happy with the quality of the HO hood, not quite as nice as the Boss hood, but it fit my needs quite well.

Jay
Good to know I'm going to try and stick with the stock hood but if I have to go cowl hood i will have my ducks in a row so I can pull the trigger on getting one. Do you use hood pins?
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post #144 of 517 Old 05-13-2018, 12:53 PM
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No hood pins, the HO Fibertrends hood is built quite well, very strong hinge points and latch areas. I'm very confident in the HO hood, I probably would have used pins on the Boss hood, quite a few owners had theirs delaminate. I've been 140+mph a few times, no issues.

Jay
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post #145 of 517 Old 05-16-2018, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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So I'm running into a hell of a time trying to get the transmission back in the car. i can get it most of the way in but the last 1 1/2 inches is a no go right now. The clutch fork was my first problem so I tied it with a zip tie into position so everything was lined up i seem to have the transmission level but it will not move. I'm going to pull it down again to see if I can see anything it might be hitting. If anyone has some tips on getting the transmission installed let me know.
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post #146 of 517 Old 05-16-2018, 11:15 AM
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Had that same problem getting my 3550 to seat fully.. Pull it down checked clutch alignment four times and was ready to poor gas on the car and light it up but instead had my wife push the clutch in and out while I gave it another shot and bam she fully seated.

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I spec'd my whole build to fit a cold air intake I had
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post #147 of 517 Old 05-16-2018, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Had that same problem getting my 3550 to seat fully.. Pull it down checked clutch alignment four times and was ready to poor gas on the car and light it up but instead had my wife push the clutch in and out while I gave it another shot and bam she fully seated.
Thanks I will give that a try tonight. I was in the same position last night I was thinking about putting a rag in the gas tank to see how well that old gas will burns.
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post #148 of 517 Old 05-16-2018, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by petmotel View Post
I bought a Boss Cobra R hood for the car, very high quality, and I love the style of the thing. But it wasn't even close to fitting with an old school 14" air cleaner on top of the 4 barrel style intake/throttle body I'm running without some serious modification. I was worried cutting so much out of the hood would compromise structural integrity. So I did better research, ended up with the HO Fibertrends hood. I'm happy with the quality of the HO hood, not quite as nice as the Boss hood, but it fit my needs quite well.

Jay
Did you sell the Boss inc. hood already?
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post #149 of 517 Old 05-16-2018, 06:56 PM
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Did you sell the Boss inc. hood already?
Sent you a PM

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post #150 of 517 Old 05-21-2018, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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I finally go the transmission in the car on Friday night I ended up just tightening down the C-clamp I had on the clutch fork and it slid the rest of the way into the car. Hopefully I don't have to do that again for a long time. Should be easier next time now I know what to do to make it fit.



I also go the steering rack and shaft installed in the car. I had to put it in the middle holes of my MM steering rack bushings so it would clear the oil pan. So I will have to adjust the bump steer in the car.





I was tired of laying on the floor so I decided to do some small work on the interior last night and started the install of some of the gauges I wanted to add to the car. I still need to add the a pillar gauges but it was a start.



I'm feeling pretty good about the car right now I think I'm in the down hill phase of the build I'm going to start the todo list for it tonight. The only major thing I have to do now is getting the fender flares on the car which I know is going to be allot of work but the other stuff is just bolting the car back together. I already accumulated most all the parts I will need the only two things I really need are the tires and the X-pipe.

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post #151 of 517 Old 05-21-2018, 10:41 AM
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You're getting there man. It will snowball and before you know it, you're riding around. I have to be reminded by people of where my car was when I first got it. Yours has come very far from that old race car it once was.
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post #152 of 517 Old 05-21-2018, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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You're getting there man. It will snowball and before you know it, you're riding around. I have to be reminded by people of where my car was when I first got it. Yours has come very far from that old race car it once was.
Thanks man it has come long way. I was doing a check list in my head last night and realized I'm moving pretty good now. I knew once I had the new engine in the car it would start moving faster.
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post #153 of 517 Old 05-21-2018, 08:37 PM
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Thanks man it has come long way. I was doing a check list in my head last night and realized I'm moving pretty good now. I knew once I had the new engine in the car it would start moving faster.
I know that feeling of seeing that fancy new motor just sitting there saying "use me, abuse me, spank me like a redheaded stepchild!" or something to that effect.

Nice work, she's gettin' there.

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post #154 of 517 Old 05-22-2018, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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I got more work done on the car last night I did some work on the placement of the motor. When I first installed the motor it seemed like it was sitting a bit higher and further forward then it did before. I decided since it wouldn't take me long to swap the MM solid motor mounts for the old solid motor mounts to see if I was right. The old motor mounts moved the engine back a 1/4 and down about the same. that was nice since it gave me better clearance between the K-member and the oil pan.



Its hard to tell from the picture but there is more clearance then it looks. I was really happy with that since I was kind of worried about it. So I figured I would just leave them installed and not use the MM solid motor mounts. I decided on moving on to finishing up the transmission install on the car. I got all the mounts installed and went to lower the transmission to find I have another issue.



It sits about a 1/2 inch off the transmission cross member. I would have to put a spacer between the trans cross member and trans mount to get it to work. The one drawback is now the driveshaft won't go into the car since the tail housing is so close to the transmission tunnel. The driveshaft is a left over from when the car was an auto it has the big dampener on the end. The other thing i causes is the motor to tilt back and I loose the gap I had between oil pan and K-member.

So now I'm starting to look at my options to solve the problem. I've come up with 3 options all ranging from mild to wild.

1. Leave the motor where it sits make spacers for the transmission mount to lift the tail of it up so the oil pan doesn't hit the K-member and get a new driveshaft that doesn't have the dampener on the end of it. This should work but not sure if I still won't have issues with the drive shaft and the transmission tunnel.

2. Really the same as above but add these to the car which should move the trans closer to the mount. It might also keep me from having to get a driveshaft but in the end I might just get one anyway.

K-Member Spacer Kit, 1/4" thick

3. This option is the craziest one of the them all. It could open the door for allot more custom work on the car which could add delays to getting it running. Taking what I was going to do in options 1 and 2 to the next level moving the motor back an inch in the car. This would give me allot of clearance between the pan and the K-member but could open the door to allot more problems. I looked at all the places where there could be potential issues with clearance. I looked at the steering rack to pan clearance which looks good its hard to tell from the photo below but there would be about 1/4 inch of clearance if the motor was set back.



The shifter opening would be fine and adding the spacers would give me more clearance between the transmission and the trans tunnel. I still have to look into all the potential issues that could come from moving the engine back. I'm going to take a look at it more tonight. I have a mental list of issues this could cause problems from easy to fix things to going to take some fab work. I read over the MM K-member instructions for the 1 inch setback on the motor and the only thing I haven't checked is the exhaust clearance with the firewall. I was going to put the headers on tonight to see what issues I might have with them hitting the firewall. Setting the motor back an inch was something I wanted to do but changed my mind now I thinking since I already have the car apart and I'm thinking about replacing the driveshaft anyway might as well take the time now.

What do you guys think of my potential solutions to the problem? If anyone has suggestions let me know.
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post #155 of 517 Old 05-22-2018, 11:28 AM
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I think you're over thinking things, and also ignoring something important (at least I didn't see you mention it)

Number one thing i'd take into consideration is driveline angles. Raising the transmission up by an inch will add more than a few degrees. If the mounts are that far out of alignment supposedly, then everything comes into question.

When you installed the motor mounts, did you tighten the nuts down before lowering the trans down? If you did, I would loosen them up, let the trans droop to the cross member, look at your angles and see how everything sits. More than likely the mounts aren't settled in the perches. You may be able to get the transmission mount started, then go back up front and snug the nuts down.
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post #156 of 517 Old 05-22-2018, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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I did forget to mention it I have to look at pinion angle on the car to make sure its not getting out of control. The hard part is I can't lower the engine anymore on the engine mounts more then it already is right now or I won't clear the steering rack on the car. So I need to figure out a way to close the gap to the trans mount. By adding the 1/4 spacer between the K-member and the chassis it should lower the drivetrain to come closer to the trans mount.

When I installed the motor mounts I left the bolts loose on the motor mount to block so they could move it around. Then before installing the nuts to secure the mounts to the k-member I made sure they were fully seated in the slots. The transmission mount wasnít installed yet in the car when I installed the motor mounts. The problem is I canít loosen the motor mount bolts to droop the transmission to meet the mount since it will cause the oil pan to hit the K-member. If I move the engine back I can get allot more clearance to the K-member and have more options on making it work.

What I canít figure out is why the motor sits so high up that there is this big gap between the trans mount and the transmission. Not sure if its something with the Dart blocks since Iím using the same motor mounts and K-member.
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post #157 of 517 Old 05-23-2018, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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So last night I decided to follow your advice thenemesis and make sure I was't over thinking it and double checked everything. I found everything was seated right and the root cause for the transmission not sitting on the trans cross member was the oil pan hitting the K-member. It was holding it up in the air. So decided screw it I'm going to set the engine back an inch and see what happens. So I decided to make sure a couple of things would still fit if I moved the engine back namely the headers only to find they were going to be a problem if I left the motor in the stock position. The header on the driver side was hitting the MM steering shaft. So I pulled the old mounts of the motor put the MM ones back on and moved the motor back an inch.





Which gave me a ton of oil pan clearance.





I have plenty of clearance from the K-member to the steering rack.



Once I had the engine set back the transmission went into place fine.



After I had the motor setback I decided to check the header clearance on the driver and passenger side and moving the engine back an inch fixed the issue I was having with the driver side header. Then I checked to make sure the upper intake cleared the hood fine.



Here's how much clearance I have to firewall.



So moving the engine back fixed all the problems I was having with the motor fitting in the car plus it fixed one I didn't know I had yet. Now I can move on to the next issue I'm going to run into my guess its going to be the exhaust namely the X-pipe I might have to get that sooner then later.
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post #158 of 517 Old 05-23-2018, 10:21 AM
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Perfect! I'm glad it worked out Peter.

I knew something had to be amiss. You're basically talking a cantilever with the trans sitting up like that. The weight had to be supported somewhere. Those little motor mount's were in no way going to support 500lbs of leverage haha.

Love the intake/VC color choice. It's a very clean look to have under the hood. But you have a mile of clearance now. I'm not looking forward to the day of screwing around with the oil pan clearance like this.. it's going to be a pain. Hopefully my motor gives me zero reason to pull it for a few years.

Before you know it man, you'll be riding around thinking back at all of this work as a "blip" on the radar.
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post #159 of 517 Old 05-23-2018, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Perfect! I'm glad it worked out Peter.

I knew something had to be amiss. You're basically talking a cantilever with the trans sitting up like that. The weight had to be supported somewhere. Those little motor mount's were in no way going to support 500lbs of leverage haha.

Love the intake/VC color choice. It's a very clean look to have under the hood. But you have a mile of clearance now. I'm not looking forward to the day of screwing around with the oil pan clearance like this.. it's going to be a pain. Hopefully my motor gives me zero reason to pull it for a few years.

Before you know it man, you'll be riding around thinking back at all of this work as a "blip" on the radar.
Thanks man it felt good to see it all fall into place. I was thinking about it all day yesterday trying to figure out what I was going to do. Now I can move on to the next challenge. Now I got to figure out the drive shaft to see if I need to have one made for the car.
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post #160 of 517 Old 05-25-2018, 06:38 AM
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This is a fun one to follow. Corral is lacking content and followers these days...well for the past couple of years really. Nice to see another documented project that is still active.
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Dart 348ci, Ed Curtis cam/valvetrain, Precision 76mm, Holley Dominator EFI, CNP ignition, tons of Holler EFI small parts, 4"dp, 4R70W w/T-brake, new suspension coming soon.

Little 750rwhp at 6,000rpms and only 10lbs of boost before we just got tired of playing with clutches. New 4R70W and we are turning it up. Expecting 1,000rwhp.
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post #161 of 517 Old 05-25-2018, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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This is a fun one to follow. Corral is lacking content and followers these days...well for the past couple of years really. Nice to see another documented project that is still active.
Thanks man its coming along. I'm hoping to make sure good progress this weekend and next weekend. There is still allot to do but I'm chipping a way at it.
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post #162 of 517 Old 05-25-2018, 04:31 PM
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Thanks man its coming along. I'm hoping to make sure good progress this weekend and next weekend. There is still allot to do but I'm chipping a way at it.
What did you use to paint the cage with?

Dart 348ci, Ed Curtis cam/valvetrain, Precision 76mm, Holley Dominator EFI, CNP ignition, tons of Holler EFI small parts, 4"dp, 4R70W w/T-brake, new suspension coming soon.

Little 750rwhp at 6,000rpms and only 10lbs of boost before we just got tired of playing with clutches. New 4R70W and we are turning it up. Expecting 1,000rwhp.
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post #163 of 517 Old 05-25-2018, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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What did you use to paint the cage with?
Its rustoleum sunrise red. When I first turned the car into a track car it was the cheapest way to get a paint job on the interior. The other thing that was nice if I scratched it didn't matter I just painted over it.
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post #164 of 517 Old 05-25-2018, 06:13 PM
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Its rustoleum sunrise red. When I first turned the car into a track car it was the cheapest way to get a paint job on the interior. The other thing that was nice if I scratched it didn't matter I just painted over it.
Thanks. Simple rattle can? How well has it held-up? Did you primer first?

I have a chromoly going in now. On a black car with interior I am going back in with black and want that red for a contrasting color.

Dart 348ci, Ed Curtis cam/valvetrain, Precision 76mm, Holley Dominator EFI, CNP ignition, tons of Holler EFI small parts, 4"dp, 4R70W w/T-brake, new suspension coming soon.

Little 750rwhp at 6,000rpms and only 10lbs of boost before we just got tired of playing with clutches. New 4R70W and we are turning it up. Expecting 1,000rwhp.
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post #165 of 517 Old 05-25-2018, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. Simple rattle can? How well has it held-up? Did you primer first?

I have a chromoly going in now. On a black car with interior I am going back in with black and want that red for a contrasting color.
Yep simple rattle can. I did primer it with a couple coats then did about 4 coats of the red. It held up well over time but the parts of the cage that were in the direct sun when the car was at the track faded a bit. I'm doing basically the same thing my car had Grey interior when I got the car but I always wanted black interior so for the rebuild I went with the black.
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post #166 of 517 Old 05-26-2018, 03:49 AM
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I'm thinking a clear thick 3m wrap on my cage to protect high impact areas.

Keep the updates coming. I'm stuck overseas and can't work on mine, both of them. Build threads keep me motivated...and ordering parts

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Dart 348ci, Ed Curtis cam/valvetrain, Precision 76mm, Holley Dominator EFI, CNP ignition, tons of Holler EFI small parts, 4"dp, 4R70W w/T-brake, new suspension coming soon.

Little 750rwhp at 6,000rpms and only 10lbs of boost before we just got tired of playing with clutches. New 4R70W and we are turning it up. Expecting 1,000rwhp.
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post #167 of 517 Old 05-26-2018, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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I'm thinking a clear thick 3m wrap on my cage to protect high impact areas.

Keep the updates coming. I'm stuck overseas and can't work on mine, both of them. Build threads keep me motivated...and ordering parts

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
The 3M should help keep it looking good.

Your in luck here's and update on the car. I got time to work on the car yesterday and made some good progress. I got the starter installed and wrapped the starter harness with some tesa tape I would post a picture but for got to take one before I installed it. I also got the headers installed in the car.





Then I worked on getting the rest of the sensors on the lower intake sealed so I could install the injectors and fuel rail. I also replaced the fuel pressure regulator



Then I started on getting the accessories installed in the car starting with the power steering pump.



The bracket for the power steering pump was looking really bad so I took some scotch bright pads to it and it cleaned up nice. I was going to take the my old accessory bracket and paint it black since it was looking pretty rough but with how nice the power steering pump came out I decided to do the same thing to it.



Then worked on getting the smog pump mounted.



I should have got a better picture of the bracket after I was done cleaning it but got to excited to get in on the car and forgot. Making some good progress on the car. I ordered the X-pipe for the car and a 3G alternator since the one I had in the car had a bad bearing in it I had just forgot about it. I think the next part is going to be getting the all the old gas out of the tank it smells like varnish. I have a new tank for the car to replace the old one.
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post #168 of 517 Old 05-29-2018, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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I'm starting to work on the part of the build I don't feel like installing on the car the smog equipment. I have all the parts I need to get the smog stuff working again. I had bought it on ebay almost a year ago and it just been sitting around.



I also bought a new smog tube for the car all the ones I saw on ebay were in poor condition so I decided to buy a new one.



It fun trying to get it installed with the motor set back. The flanges on it are so tall you have to run a really long bolt to get them mounted which wouldn't fit between the firewall and the motor. So I had to unbolt the transmission mount and jack the transmission up to get enough clearance to thread the bolts in.

I also go the sway bar installed in the car.



The things i didn't take pictures of because I forgot is took part of the dash apart so I could get the speedometer cable disconnected from the gauges. When I was racing the car before at one point the speedometer stopped working so I disconnected it since it was making a funny noise. At the time I really didn't care about it working for me I didn't really need it. I could figure out about how fats I was going based on engine RPM and the gear I was in to figure out my speed. So when I pulled the transmission I found the speedometer gear was completely destroyed and the cable wouldn't turn at all. So I picked up a new cable and gear for the car I'm just waiting on the cable right now.

I'm also taking a look at what I might do about the 10 pin connectors on the EEC harness. I have thought about just connecting the two together using non-insulated butt splice connectors and double walled adhesive heat shrink tubing to get rid of any connectors. I also thought about going the Deutsch connector route or just leaving the 10 pin. The injector harness on my car is new the old one was in rough shape so I decided to get rid if it. I could just clean up the main harness connectors make sure there making good contact and call it a day. All the tabs on mine are still in good shape so they lock together really good.



I'm hoping to make some good progress on the car this week. I'm going to have a pretty open Saturday and Sunday this coming weekend so I should be able to get allot done. I need to get the drive shaft length checked and get the old gas out of the tank so I can pull it and replace the tank with the new one.

Last edited by Peter92lx; 05-29-2018 at 10:18 AM.
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post #169 of 517 Old 05-29-2018, 11:37 AM
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you should prob sell me the used distributor in the upper left corner of the last picture. lol
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post #170 of 517 Old 05-29-2018, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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you should prob sell me the used distributor in the upper left corner of the last picture. lol
I plan on selling it so I will let you know. I'm keeping it for now since I know it works.
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post #171 of 517 Old 05-29-2018, 09:59 PM
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I don't know about the Foxes, but the smog tubing on SN95 5 liter cars makes it close to impossible to reach the plugs on the passenger side. I might well have left all the emissions stuff on my car were it not for my bruised and bloodied hands trying to change plugs. I think they should require the engineers designing some of this nonsense to work on their creations before releasing it to an unsuspecting public.

Your engine bay is looking quite fabulous! I'm wondering if your wife will be driving the car around the cones on track outings? Is she diggin' the Fox build?

Jay
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post #172 of 517 Old 05-30-2018, 09:27 AM
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Looks great Peter. You're building a very very clean ride.

I definitely recommend using a form of a connector. The Deutsch one's I used are really well built for 15 bucks. But to each their own. I think I have an OEM NIB smog tube still too haha.
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post #173 of 517 Old 05-30-2018, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by petmotel View Post
I don't know about the Foxes, but the smog tubing on SN95 5 liter cars makes it close to impossible to reach the plugs on the passenger side. I might well have left all the emissions stuff on my car were it not for my bruised and bloodied hands trying to change plugs. I think they should require the engineers designing some of this nonsense to work on their creations before releasing it to an unsuspecting public.

Your engine bay is looking quite fabulous! I'm wondering if your wife will be driving the car around the cones on track outings? Is she diggin' the Fox build?

Jay
It can be a pain in the butt from what I can see right now to be honest the car has been missing all this stuff for so long I forgot how much of a pain in the but its going to be to swap plugs.

Thanks I decided to make it look even better I really wasnít digging the factory valve covers so I added these to the car.





Too be honest she doesnít really care about the car and will probably never drive it at an autocross. My wife likes the open wheel cars better she hates autocrossing full size cars. For my wife autocross racing is something she has done with her dad since she was 15 years old she has fun hanging out with allot of the people at the autocross but she mainly does it because she gets to hangout with her dad.
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post #174 of 517 Old 05-30-2018, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by thenemesis View Post
Looks great Peter. You're building a very very clean ride.

I definitely recommend using a form of a connector. The Deutsch one's I used are really well built for 15 bucks. But to each their own. I think I have an OEM NIB smog tube still too haha.
Thanks man its coming out nice I just need to get it done. Its going to be hard I'm not going to get a chance to work on it again until Saturday. I will probably do the Deutsch connectors since I already have them. I may just clean up the factory connectors for now since they are in good shape then swap them out once the car is running. I have so may new parts and things going on part of me doesn't want to add one more.
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post #175 of 517 Old 05-30-2018, 09:40 PM
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Car looks great man! Good to see a nice build like this on the Corral.


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Tremec 3550, Spec stage 2,Alm. Driveshaft, SteedaTri-Ax, 3.73's,65mmTB, adjustable FPR, BBK long tubes, BBK h-pipe w/o cats, Edelbrock exhaust,e-fan, 50/50 and 70/30 lakewoods, LCA's, Eibach drag launch,GT40upper/lower, GT40 heads, 1.7 RR's, 75mm Mass-Air, 24lb's.263hp 306ft/lb
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