1992 LX The street to track to street again build. - Page 4 - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #106 of 480 Old 03-19-2018, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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Small update I got the timing cover and water pump installed last night. I'm hoping to get the oil pump, oil pick up and oil pan on tonight.



I also got a chance to autocross yesterday which was allot of fun.


I should have the lower intake gaskets in on Tuesday so I can install it once that is installed I should be ready to pull the old motor out and get the new one ready to install.

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post #107 of 480 Old 03-19-2018, 10:54 AM
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That timing cover/water pump area is often a problem area for me. I have abandoned the Fel-Pro paper gaskets there. I use the Cometic steel core timing cover gasket with a light bead of RTV, and the Edelbrock fiber water pump gasket with excellent results.

Jay

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post #108 of 480 Old 03-19-2018, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by petmotel View Post
That timing cover/water pump area is often a problem area for me. I have abandoned the Fel-Pro paper gaskets there. I use the Cometic steel core timing cover gasket with a light bead of RTV, and the Edelbrock fiber water pump gasket with excellent results.

Jay
If you know the part number for the Cometic send it my way I wasn't really happy with the Fel-Pro one I installed. I'm hoping it will be fine but it would be nice to have an alternative as a back up.
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post #109 of 480 Old 03-19-2018, 09:31 PM
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I got the pump, and cover gaskets backwards. SCE, and Edelbrock both offer fiber timing cover gaskets, much better than paper gaskets.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sce-13600
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-6991

Cometic has aluminum/foam SBF water pump gaskets, very nice!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...view/make/ford
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...view/make/ford

Jay
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post #110 of 480 Old 03-20-2018, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by petmotel View Post
I got the pump, and cover gaskets backwards. SCE, and Edelbrock both offer fiber timing cover gaskets, much better than paper gaskets.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sce-13600
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-6991

Cometic has aluminum/foam SBF water pump gaskets, very nice!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...view/make/ford
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...view/make/ford

Jay
Thanks for the information. I will keep those in mind if mine goes south. I think there sealed good but you never know until you put water in it.
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post #111 of 480 Old 04-04-2018, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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I haven't done much with the car in the past couple weeks. I took a vacation with the family so I wasn't able to work on the car for a week. Now that I'm back from vacation I started working on the motor again. I started to get the oil pump, pick up and pan on the car. I ended up going with the FRPP M-6675-DRS302 oil pan. I did allot of research and found this to be the best one for autocross and track days. I started by getting the oil pump and pick up installed on the car then checked to make sure I had good clearance from the bottom of the pan to the pick up.



I did run into a problem with the pick up sitting to close to the bottom of the pan it was just about sitting against the pan so I had to bend the mount a bit to get the clearance I needed. The next problem I ran into is the windage try they install in the pan was hitting the oil pump so I had to clearance that a bit to make it work. Once I got all that solved I put the pan on the motor.



Now that the pan is on the car I decided to install the balancer on the car. It went on pretty easy without a problem.



I'm planning on getting the lower intake installed on the car this week and start getting the engine ready to go in the car. I still have to pull the old one out and while its out I was going to clean up the engine bay. Part of the engine bay clean up was fixing up my EFI harness. Its getting to be 26 years old but for its age its in really good condition. The car has been garaged most of its life plus it hasn't really ran for the past 11 years.



So I got some rolls of tesa tape and started to wrap the harness. It didn't take to long and turned out pretty good.



I also worked on getting my Sparco Seat installed but that has been a huge pain in the ass getting it to work right and centered to the steering wheel. I will post pictures of it once I have it in the car.
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post #112 of 480 Old 04-04-2018, 11:11 AM
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Peter, definitely changed out the salt and pepper shakers if you can. Made a huge difference on my car, and after checking resistance across the connections I eliminated all of the gremlins that plague our cars.

Everything looks great though! Can't wait to see how it runs.
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post #113 of 480 Old 04-04-2018, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Peter, definitely changed out the salt and pepper shakers if you can. Made a huge difference on my car, and after checking resistance across the connections I eliminated all of the gremlins that plague our cars.

Everything looks great though! Can't wait to see how it runs.
What connectors did you use on your car? I was looking at these from summit racing.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cei-103009

There good for 16-20 gauge wire it says 12-16 but people say its a miss print. I was going to do more research on connectors since i have everything out now it would be easy to swap them out. I also thought about removing the connectors completely and just soldering the wires together.
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post #114 of 480 Old 04-04-2018, 12:15 PM
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Pin-Deut...ss!29414!US!-1

Those. They work great, and are very robust. I have an extra set in the garage for when I do any other major wiring projects on the car.
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post #115 of 480 Old 04-16-2018, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quick update I've been working getting the car ready to swap out the old motor and get the new one installed. I got the lower intake installed on the engine and I moved the new motor to an engine cradle so I can get the flywheel and clutch installed this week. The only thing I have left to remove from the car is the transmission then old engine will be ready to come out. I hoping by the end of this week the old engine will be out of the car. While the engine is out I'm going to take a couple weeks cleaning up the engine bay double checking to make sure the k-member is still aligned and possibly painting the engine bay. I'm shooting for a mid May start up but we will see how it goes I have allot to do before that happens.





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post #116 of 480 Old 04-17-2018, 02:00 AM
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Looking good brother!

1993 Cobra BOSS302 331, FTI Ed cam, MM Max Grip, Viper T56, Pro-M EFI, Recaro, Forgeline RS-C
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post #117 of 480 Old 04-17-2018, 10:19 PM
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I've been following your build. Everything is looking good. I have a quick question. What rear calipers do you have on your car? I've seen that same setup on a local autocross guys mustang. Thanks.

1983 GT sold. Old school. 302, gt40p heads,
B cam. Shorty headers. H pipe. Flowmaster 40's and Ford Motorsports mudflaps.

1988 coupe. Build in progress. 408w . Cams to big, Heads are to big, Intake to tall, Compression to high, Carb is oversized. Everything is alll righttt.
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post #118 of 480 Old 04-18-2018, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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I've been following your build. Everything is looking good. I have a quick question. What rear calipers do you have on your car? I've seen that same setup on a local autocross guys mustang. Thanks.
There a single piston PBR caliper that came on 88-96 C4 Corvette. It was a kit Baer had back in the mid to late 90's they put the Corvette PBR calipers on the front and back of the mustang. It used 12inch front and 11inch rear rotors and you could get it in a version that was 4 lug and fit under the stock pony wheels. It was an amazing kit at the time the thing I liked about it the most was it fit under the stock wheels since I was going for more of a sleeper look. The piston size is the same as the Cobra rear calipers if I remember correctly so I figured they would be a good match to the Brembo 00R front calipers. I had thought about going with the 4 piston Wilwood in the back of the car but don't think it will be necessary. Here's a couple pictures of the calipers these are my spares I need to clean up and rebuild. The one nice thing about them is its easy to find pads for them and there pretty cheap since they were on a C4 vette.



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post #119 of 480 Old 04-18-2018, 08:44 PM
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Thanks for all of the info. I knew they weren't cobra calipers but had no idea what they were off of. Good luck with the build.

1983 GT sold. Old school. 302, gt40p heads,
B cam. Shorty headers. H pipe. Flowmaster 40's and Ford Motorsports mudflaps.

1988 coupe. Build in progress. 408w . Cams to big, Heads are to big, Intake to tall, Compression to high, Carb is oversized. Everything is alll righttt.
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post #120 of 480 Old 04-21-2018, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Well this happened last night.



I got the old engine out of the car. It wasn't really that hard took about 30min to get it lifted out.



I had already removed the trans a few nights ago so there was only the 2 motor mount bolts to remove to get it out. I have a few things i want to do while the engine is out. I'm going to degrease the engine bay today to get it cleaned up then I'm going to try and paint the engine while the engine is out. Then I'm going to make sure all the suspension is still in line since its easy to move the K-member while the engine is out. I might also take this time to install the new brakes on the car. since it will be easy to swap out the master cylinder.
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post #121 of 480 Old 04-26-2018, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Now that the engine is out I got to masking off the engine bay. It took a bit of time but I got it all ready for paint.



I got the primer on last night hoping to get a coat of paint on it tonight.



Its getting closer I'm hoping to have the new motor in the car in a couple weeks. I still have some suspension stuff I want to work on while the engine is out.

I did get to autocross this weekend more fun times in the mod car. Didn't drive very well just couldn't put a good run together.

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post #122 of 480 Old 04-27-2018, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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The engine bay is painted didn't come out to bad for a spray can paint job.

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post #123 of 480 Old 04-27-2018, 08:29 AM
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Hey man.. spray can paint jobs are the truth for engine bays. Mine has held up well.
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post #124 of 480 Old 04-27-2018, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Hey man.. spray can paint jobs are the truth for engine bays. Mine has held up well.
I hoping mine will do the same. The hard part was spraying around the master cylinder area. Looked at it this morning I'm really happy with how it came out. One step closer to getting the new engine in the car. How's the tuning of your car going?
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post #125 of 480 Old 04-27-2018, 10:08 AM
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I hoping mine will do the same. The hard part was spraying around the master cylinder area. Looked at it this morning I'm really happy with how it came out. One step closer to getting the new engine in the car. How's the tuning of your car going?
It would be better if I had time. I've driven the car twice since I got back from a week long work trip, and before that I hadn't driven it in two weeks. I really need to put some miles on it and start data logging a lot to get it right. It runs pretty good now but mid RPM band WOT it's off. Pops and spits a little bit. But nothing major. I'm pretty impressed with it so far though.

Also i've got to put a heater core in it soon. I'm on borrowed time so I'm constantly afraid of the heater core blowing up in the dash haha
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post #126 of 480 Old 05-01-2018, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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So with the engine out I wanted to do some work with the suspension. I wanted to make sure the K-member was still squared under the car. I set up the plumbing bobs and took the measurements.



I found that everything was good it all measured out correctly so that was nice. Now its time to move to the rear suspension which is going to take allot more work. When I first started this project I was going to swap out the live axle rear with an IRS but decided to stick with the live axle and go toque arm but now I'm going to stick with the 4 link and fix some of its problems most of which are due to me running the car so low. This is a picture of how the rear suspension currently setup.



From the picture you can see the lower control arm points down towards the front of the car. The issue with that is it can cause counter steer in the rear of the car. When the car rolls the outer tire pulls in towards the front of the car and the inner tire lifts and moves towards the rear which can affect turn in depending on how much suspension travel the car has which in my case was little. So the plan is to raise the ride height on the car to level out the lower control arm. It will give better suspension travel on the rough courses we have here in SD. It should only take 1/4 to 1/2 an inch raise in ride height but considering how low the car was running it should be that big of a deal.

Adding the ride height to the car will also level out the upper control arms but I can move them back to there standard mounting location. I will have to figure out the angle of the upper arms since it will tell me where the instant center is for the rear suspension and how much anti squat I will have in the back of the car. I also need to work on how close the brake lines are to the coilovers in the rear. Since I have the upper control arm mounts on the axle the lines are pushed closer to the coilover springs. The griggs coilovers I run in the rear of the car don't help since the use a 2.5 spring.

Now I'm also starting to hit a point where I need to start doing the body work on the car. I wanted to wait longer but I need to get the brakes done which means I will need to put on the new rims to fit over the brembo calipers in the front. I might only buy two right now for the front then buy the rears later. I won't lie cutting into a perfectly good body isn't going to be easy to do. The front is no big deal but the rear is to be hard.

So the project is behind schedule I was hoping to be starting it by the mid May but i can see that's not going to happen. I kind of figured this was going to happen but I was hoping I could take it out for its maiden autocross in June but my guess right now it won't be until August some time. I'm bummed its not closer to being done but I kind of knew my original time schedule was going to be hard to make but I tried.
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post #127 of 480 Old 05-03-2018, 12:52 PM
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Torque arm, and Panhard bar make such a dramatic improvement to the handling capabilities of these cars, I'm curious as to the reason you decided not to go that route. Unless it puts you in a class you don't want to be in, can't imagine why someone looking for handling prowess would pass this option.

Jay
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post #128 of 480 Old 05-03-2018, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Torque arm, and Panhard bar make such a dramatic improvement to the handling capabilities of these cars, I'm curious as to the reason you decided not to go that route. Unless it puts you in a class you don't want to be in, can't imagine why someone looking for handling prowess would pass this option.

Jay
The 4 link been under the car since 2000 and it works really well. It used to have a modified watts link to locate which worked really well and it still worked good when I went to the MM panhard bar. There's no bind in it with the parallel upper control arms and if I ran it a bit higher in the back it would work even better and to be honest I haven't ruled out going to an IRS in the next few years. There's also the weight savings I get from it verses the torque arm.
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post #129 of 480 Old 05-03-2018, 07:17 PM
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Thanks for taking the time to explain, guess I wasn't paying attention that it was a parallel 4-link with a panhard bar. Not so bad compared to the stock system. I would think pinion angle is subject to a fair bit of change throughout suspension travel.

I think you would find your car would experience a lot less rear suspension loading/unloading during acceleration, and braking with the T/A, I figure you already know that.

I've been agonizing about an IRS for some time now even though I've got the full MM catalog (less sway bar) under the rear. I like to hit the berms hard and deep, I know the car would behave better with the independent rear.

Jay
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post #130 of 480 Old 05-03-2018, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for taking the time to explain, guess I wasn't paying attention that it was a parallel 4-link with a panhard bar. Not so bad compared to the stock system. I would think pinion angle is subject to a fair bit of change throughout suspension travel.

I think you would find your car would experience a lot less rear suspension loading/unloading during acceleration, and braking with the T/A, I figure you already know that.

I've been agonizing about an IRS for some time now even though I've got the full MM catalog (less sway bar) under the rear. I like to hit the berms hard and deep, I know the car would behave better with the independent rear.

Jay
The pinion angle change during travel is a bit of an issue again due to how low I would run the car and the upper arm length. The problem with a 4 link on are cars is there a bit of a compromise. You can see from the pictures the upper control arm is just bit longer then the lower control arm which causes them to travel at different radius which adds to pinion angle change. I had at one time thought about cutting slots in the floor of the car and tie the upper links to the roll cage so I could make them the same length as the lowers but scraped it when I parked the car on jack stands for 11 years.

The TA is definitely a tried and true setup and I'm still not ruling it out since they really are not that expensive. I really don't need a heavy duty one the standard duty one would be fine for me since I'm not drag racing and doing hard launches. I figure my T2R would probably break before the TA. My main focus is to get the car running and back on the road then shake it down at the local autocross and figure out what I want to change on the suspension.

The IRS is a tough one I know the cost will be high to get it where I would want it. I think for autocross its not as necessary but track days it would be allot better.

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post #131 of 480 Old 05-07-2018, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Did some work on the suspension this weekend. Mainly working on the rear of the car right now not much to do on the front. I decided to get a pair of Koni DA's for the rear of the car to match the DA front's I have on the car. I also went from the Griggs coilovers in the back to MM coilovers they give me more room between the spring and upper control arm on the suspension.



I also added there upper shock mount while I was at it.



Then I did some work on the front suspension. I decided to clean up and re grease the upper needle bearings in the coilovers and swap the springs for a higher rate.



I'm also going to be replacing the steering rack bushings on the car and I added the MM lower profile bolts to the lower control arms so the power steering boots wouldn't rub on the control arm bolts. the current plan is to get the car ready to install the new motor this weekend. I'm also looking at getting the tires for the car so I can start working on the body in the next couple weeks.

I did get a chance to autocross on Sunday which was allot of fun. I kind messed up my fastest run I know the car could have been faster had I not messed up a few corners.

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post #132 of 480 Old 05-07-2018, 10:31 AM
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Looks great. I genuinely wanted to make the leap to that stuff, but it's so dang expensive. I'm surprised your jumping to a higher rate up front though since it's going to be a more street friendly car.
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post #133 of 480 Old 05-07-2018, 11:03 AM
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Might I ask where you are at for spring rates, and what you're planning for tires (size and model)? Would these items be relatively similar for autocross, and road course events?

Jay
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post #134 of 480 Old 05-07-2018, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Looks great. I genuinely wanted to make the leap to that stuff, but it's so dang expensive. I'm surprised your jumping to a higher rate up front though since it's going to be a more street friendly car.
Honestly the 400lb front 300lb rear on the car won't be that bad they should help control the car more when it has the 315 tires on it. I'm going to have more road noise but there is going to be so much of that I'll probably not even notice it. All the suspension in the car is solid mounted not to mention the solid motor mounts. Road noise and harsh rides don't bother me at all it never has this car will be making trips on the street to and from autocross events and having fun when I just want to drive the car. It's not something I'm going to drive to and from work everyday. If I was going to daily drive the car more I would soften it up a bit.
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post #135 of 480 Old 05-07-2018, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Might I ask where you are at for spring rates, and what you're planning for tires (size and model)? Would these items be relatively similar for autocross, and road course events?

Jay
I was typing the replay to thenemesis when you posted. Like I mentioned above I'm going to run 400lb front and 300lb rear. I think these will be a good autocross rate that will still work for track days. The shocks should work good for both since there is allot of adjustment range and they can handle some pretty high spring rates. The tire for autocross will be the BFG Rival S 315/30 18. I'm not sure if I will run that for track days I might go with something like Toyo Proxes R888R since they should hold up better.
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post #136 of 480 Old 05-11-2018, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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After a ton of work and allot longer then I wanted it to take the motor is finally in the car. It feels good to finally see it in the car. Now its down to getting it all back together.



The only issue I ran into was the oil pan is close to the k-member. There is only about 2mm on the passenger and about 4mm on the drivers side between the pan and the k-member. I'm running solid motor mounts on the car so I know the engine isn't going to move but it looks to close. I know the engine is set in right not sure if this is something with the fact I have the first generation version of the MM k-member. I was thinking of different ways I could spacer the area between the motor mount and k-member or between the motor and the motor mount. I thought about putting a washer between the motor mount and the motor but not sure if i like that idea. If you guys have some suggestions please let me know.
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post #137 of 480 Old 05-12-2018, 04:38 PM
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You should be able to adjust engine level by moving it right or left. Engine is sitting in a valley (angled brackets on the K-member) you might have to also move the end of the transmission to keep it all square in the chassis. Probably not too easy at this point, I'd shim between engine and mounts. Height can be determined by the amount of washer you put in there, not so much between mount and K. If the mounts aren't wide enough for adjustment in the K-member, it will, of course, necessitate shimming between mounts and K-member brackets (unless you were to elongate the slots).

It's been a while, but I vaguely remember some interference between the beefy mounting points on the Dart block and my urethane mounts. I believe it required both some thick washers, and a bit of cutting on the mounts to make them work. I think I could have relieved some material on the block, but didn't want to do that.

Jay
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post #138 of 480 Old 05-12-2018, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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Did some work on the engine last night and it looks like its the engine is level and in the right place. I was able to get under the car and there is more clearance then it looks from the top but to be sure I'm going to put a small 2mm spacer between the engine and the motor mount. I did place the upper intake manifold on the motor to see the hood clearance and found it just barely clears. I could go to a smaller intake spacer but I'm having a hard time finding one that's 1/4 of an inch. I really don't want to go to a cowl hood but will if I have to go that route.
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post #139 of 480 Old 05-12-2018, 06:29 PM
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I'm really enjoying your thread, not too many builds geared towards handling, I suppose a Fox or SN-95 is probably not the most logical choice for that particular indulgence.

I've got a 4" cowl hood on my car due to the 4 barrel type intake, definitely not my favorite style. If I had the typical long runner, something like a Cobra R would be far more aesthetically pleasing.

Jay
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post #140 of 480 Old 05-12-2018, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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The only issue I have with the cowl hoods is it messes up my line of sight to the passenger side front of the car. I drove a car at an autocross that had one it would take sometime to used to it. I could go with a fiberglass one and save a little weight.
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