1992 LX The street to track to street again build. - Page 3 - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #71 of 517 Old 02-07-2018, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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what rotors are those?
There baer racing Eradispeed rotors. I believe this is the part number 2261002.

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post #72 of 517 Old 02-12-2018, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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I finally got to work on the motor and finished up measuring the bearing clearances on the mains and setting the thrust on the crank. I also got the crank installed this weekend.



Its feels like I'm making progress on the motor. I'm working on the rod bearing clearance now hoping to have that done by this weekend so I can start hanging pistons. Then I need to start on filing rings for the pistons which seems like a pain in the ass.

i still need to do some more work on the interior of the car. I'm starting to look more at seats for the car I'm not completely sold on the Corbeau A4 just yet. I've been looking around at a few others.

I found this one from OMP and it looks pretty good not a bad price.

https://www.carid.com/1992-ford-must...735691785.html

These also look good but I know nothing about NRG seats.

https://www.carid.com/nrg-innovation...672145494.html

I also looked at going fixed back with Kirkey road race a Sparco Evo2 or Cobra Imola which I had before and it was a good seat. I've also owned an Ultra shield fixed back aluminum seat which was also good.

https://www.kirkeyracing.com/product...BACK-ROAD-RACE

https://www.sparcousa.com/evo-ii-us

https://www.subesports.com/cobra/imo...it-gt/cob-6050

I'm not sure about the fixed back seats. I still want to use the factory seat belts when I drive to the track then harnesses when I'm at the track. The one thing I used to run into when I had fixed back seats with the factory seat belts is they wouldn't sit around my waist. Since the lap belt would be held up by the sides of the seats. I'm not to worried about the seats right now since the car won't be driving until some time in May hopefully. Progress is moving slower then I would like on the car.

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post #73 of 517 Old 02-12-2018, 11:11 PM
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The more I watch your build the more ashamed of mine I get. You're doing a killer job! I'm looking forward to losing to this car.

I'm curious as to what you land on for seat choice. I'm running some eBay seats that were in the car when I bought it... and after I cage my car some proper seats are on the list.
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post #74 of 517 Old 02-13-2018, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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The more I watch your build the more ashamed of mine I get. You're doing a killer job! I'm looking forward to losing to this car.
Your car is what pushes me to get mine up and running. Every time I see it all I can think is I need to get my car moving. I might need something to drive this weekend let me know if you want a co-driver. I saw in your build thread you mentioned some fresher tires if you have any 315 take offs you want to unload let me know. I need a couple 315 BFG for test fitting on the front and back.
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post #75 of 517 Old 02-19-2018, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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I got more work done on the motor. I got the pistons hung on the rods and the all the ring gaps set. Now after allot of work I have all the rods and pistons installed in the block.

Here's the pistons on the rods. There a Wiseco 4.125 I got from fordstrokers.



I found it wasn't to hard to get them in the block I used a tapered ring compressor from ARP and it worked great.



I got off them torqued down and ready to go. I rotated the assembly a few times and it moves really smooth.



Now it's time to move on to the cam. I'm hoping from here the engine build will start to go faster but we will see still allot of work to do.

I did make a decision on the seats for the car I ended up getting a Sparco Evo 2 US for my driver seat and a Corbeau FX1 for my passenger seat. The club I race with was hosting the event so I work tech inspection so I got to sit in every version of the FX1 and a few Evo 2 and I liked how the Evo 2 fit me better then the FX1. I ordered those last night they should be here in the next few weeks.
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post #76 of 517 Old 02-20-2018, 09:03 AM
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That shortblock is a thing of beauty. Those are such nice blocks and internals.

One thing I have yet to conquer on my own is dialing in a cam and degreeing it. I know how it works, I know what to do, but I've never attempted to do it. I've never had a motor that really would of benefited from it. Hell, I was half concerned my setup now was one bad day away from bending a valve haha! But I'm glad to see yours is coming along. Before you know it, it'll be making good power.
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post #77 of 517 Old 02-20-2018, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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That shortblock is a thing of beauty. Those are such nice blocks and internals.

One thing I have yet to conquer on my own is dialing in a cam and degreeing it. I know how it works, I know what to do, but I've never attempted to do it. I've never had a motor that really would of benefited from it. Hell, I was half concerned my setup now was one bad day away from bending a valve haha! But I'm glad to see yours is coming along. Before you know it, it'll be making good power.
Thanks man its coming along. It felt really good to get the motor this far since I have never built one to this extent myself. I'm in the same boat I've never dialed in a cam before the last one I put in the motor all I did was install it and a friend set it up for me. I put the cam in last night but that was as far as I got. I have the timing set just need to get that in and check the cam thrust. I bought most of the parts for the engine from fordstrokers and Woody has been such a huge help getting this motor together answering all my dumb questions. I just can't wait to get this thing up and running.
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post #78 of 517 Old 02-20-2018, 04:31 PM
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Why the dished pistons? Are there plans for a blower? I used flat tops in my 363 (also with 58cc AFR heads), I do run 93 octane. Also curious about the 3.25" stroke, and why you chose to give up the displacement of the 3.4" crank? Cost is the same.

Just curious, I think you're doing a fabulous job on the car!

Jay
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post #79 of 517 Old 02-20-2018, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Why the dished pistons? Are there plans for a blower? I used flat tops in my 363 (also with 58cc AFR heads), I do run 93 octane. Also curious about the 3.25" stroke, and why you chose to give up the displacement of the 3.4" crank? Cost is the same.

Just curious, I think you're doing a fabulous job on the car!

Jay
To be honest not doing better research before buying parts is why its a 347 and not a 363. When I first started this build I wanted to build a 347 the plan was to do it in a stock block. I decided to go aftermarket since I worried about the stock block not being able to handle the power and abuse. It probably would have been fine in a stock block but I wanted the piece of mind the Dart SHP block provided. When I saw how heavy the Dart block was I wanted to see what could be done to make it lighter. I found the big bore version was 10lb lighter then the standard bore. I did think at this point why not go 363 if I do a big bore block but worried about it passing smog in CA and I didnít think the AFR heads would be able to flow enough for the 363. I think I was wrong on both counts. The dish pistons were planned I wanted to keep the compression around 9.5:1-9.8:1 so I could run the crappy 91 octane gas we have in CA fine.

If I had to do it over again it would most likely be a 363 but I would keep the lower compression. I'm planning later on down the road to either rebuild it and turn it into a 363 or I have thought about a small Vortech 5psi kit but first I need to get the car up and running.
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post #80 of 517 Old 02-21-2018, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Started working on the fenders last night. I taped up on the front of the car to start figuring out how I'm going to get them fitted to the body. I focused on the front of the car first since its going to take the most work. The rear should be pretty easy the only hard part is the cutting up of the body. I first started by getting all the molding pieces off the front fenders. Then I taped up the flares on the side of the car.









The tough part about the front is the MM suspension adding an 1 1/2 inches to the wheel base and getting a 315/18 tire to swing under the fender in the front. I had to do allot of work to get a 275/17 to fit. The main problem is the lower part of the fender where it curls in just below the molding. I'm thinking about following the fender arch all the way down the fender which would trim about 2 inches of the edge fender then cover it up with the molding and adding the Cervini's Saleen front air dam. The lower fender moldings are attached to the air dam so I could use that to flare out the bottom and use strips of aluminum to hold it out so the tire can swing under the fender.

Side note I did order seats for the car. I decided to go with a Sparco Evo 2 US for the driver seat and a Corbeau FX1 for the passenger seat. I tech inspection at the local autocross and I got to sit in every version of the FX1 and the Sparco Evo seat and I found the Sparco fit me the best. I should have the Sparco on Monday I'll get some pictures when it comes in.

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post #81 of 517 Old 02-21-2018, 10:41 AM
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I keep wanting to flare my car, but then I stop when I realize the work involved. Then I forget, and start all over again lol.

I need to work on fender clearance on my car as is, but I really would love to square a set of 315's just like you plan. I can only imagine how much of an improvement in front grip it provides.
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post #82 of 517 Old 02-21-2018, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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I keep wanting to flare my car, but then I stop when I realize the work involved. Then I forget, and start all over again lol.

I need to work on fender clearance on my car as is, but I really would love to square a set of 315's just like you plan. I can only imagine how much of an improvement in front grip it provides.
The front is going to be a ton of work to get them to clear but worth it in the end. I drove this car in the link below this weekend at an autocross and was surprised how much grip the car had.

https://forums.corral.net/forums/memb...cer-cheap.html

Unfortunately on my third run a power steering pump seal failed and blew power steering fluid all over in the engine bay. I was bummed since he didn't get a chance to drive his own car.
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post #83 of 517 Old 02-21-2018, 12:47 PM
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Ahhh that mockup looks familiar.

That car you drove to pieces is fixed, degreased, and even got the interior vacuumed.

I apologize for shorting you 2 runs. Hopefully when it's my turn to drive your car, I can break it within a single lap! ?
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post #84 of 517 Old 02-21-2018, 03:01 PM
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does this car have the original paint?
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post #85 of 517 Old 02-21-2018, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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does this car have the original paint?
Yes it is the original paint on the car. I took really good care of the paint and most of its life it lived in a garage.
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post #86 of 517 Old 02-21-2018, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Ahhh that mockup looks familiar.

That car you drove to pieces is fixed, degreased, and even got the interior vacuumed.

I apologize for shorting you 2 runs. Hopefully when it's my turn to drive your car, I can break it within a single lap! ?
Yeah when you mock them up you can start to really tell how bad they fit. Its going to take some work to get them mounted right.

It was such a weird failure to have I've never had that happen before. I felt so bad when I opened the hood to see the huge mess that was made. No worries about the runs it was just a blast to get a chance to drive it. I didn't realize the car had that much grip in it. When its done you will definitely have to drive it.
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post #87 of 517 Old 02-22-2018, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Did some more work on the flares last night. I mocked them up on the rear of the car to start getting an idea of what I'm going to have to do to get them to fit right. I can see now its going to take allot of work to get these things to fit nice.





I think I'm going to end up cutting off the bottom part of the flares right at the bottom of the molding. That part doesn't do anything and it seems like the part that fits the worst. Then I'm going to use some 3M panel bonding and rivets to attach them to the body. Before I really dig into it I will have to get some tires for mock up. I'm going to wait until the beginning of April to get the tires for the car. No need to get them now since I have plenty to do on the engine and interior.
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post #88 of 517 Old 02-26-2018, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
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Got some more work done on the engine this weekend. I got the cam installed and the degree set. It wasn't as hard as I thought it was going to be to setup. It took me longer to get the cam thrust set.



Then I had to stop on the engine I need push rod length checking tools which I have on order and should be in next week. Since I couldn't go any further on the engine I decided to move on to the interior of the car. I got the passenger seat for the car so I test fitted it to the car.



It might be bit on the tail side but it seems to work fine. The driver seat is coming in on Monday. I already got the mounting bracket but it was wrong or something went to put it in and nothing lined up.



The bracket is way to big so I will have to return it. I'm going to look at getting a planted bracket for the car. I did get some work done on the door panels I got the driver and passenger side laid out started working on the driver door but my drill bit broke.





I might have gone a bit overboard with the rivets. I spaced them 2 inches apart I probably should have done 3 inches. I really hope nothing happens in the door which causes me to have to take the panel off it will suck to have to remove all those rivets. I'm going to get a some new drill bits tomorrow and hopefully complete the door panels tomorrow night. This week I'm hoping to have more of the interior done and the push rods on order for the engine.
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post #89 of 517 Old 02-27-2018, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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I finished up the doors last night pretty happy with the way they turned out.





the window crank holes didn't line up perfectly but I kind of expected that so it was no big deal I had to open them up a bit but you can't tell since there covered up by the handle. I have a few more things to do on the front part of the interior then it should be done. I have some stuff I needed for the motor so I'm going to move back to working on that tonight. I need to figure out my push rod length then work on piston to valve clearance.
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post #90 of 517 Old 03-04-2018, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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I got some work done on the motor over the rest of this week its starting to look like something. I figured out the push rod length and the piston to valve clearance. I got the heads installed and torqued down.



Then I got the all valve train setup.



Everything is looking good so far I need to start pulling a few things from the motor in the car like the valve covers and intake so I can make sure the factory valve covers will work with the roller rockers. Plus I want to clean them up there look a little beat up. I'm hoping in the next few weeks I can pull the old motor out of the car and get the new one installed.
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post #91 of 517 Old 03-05-2018, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Now that I'm starting to get far along in the build of the new engine there are a few things I need off of the old motor so last night I decided to start tearing it down to get it ready to remove in the next couple weeks.



I was planning on using the stock valve covers but found out last night they won't fit. I'm starting to look into options now which ever way I go I'm probably going to have to raise my upper intake to clear they which I didn't want to do but I should have enough clearance to the hood. I looked at a set from ford but I don't think there going to be any better. I also looked at spacers LMR sells but there $149 I can get a set of Holley or Anderson motorsports valve covers for that much.
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post #92 of 517 Old 03-05-2018, 10:57 AM
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Now that I'm starting to get far along in the build of the new engine there are a few things I need off of the old motor so last night I decided to start tearing it down to get it ready to remove in the next couple weeks.



I was planning on using the stock valve covers but found out last night they won't fit. I'm starting to look into options now which ever way I go I'm probably going to have to raise my upper intake to clear they which I didn't want to do but I should have enough clearance to the hood. I looked at a set from ford but I don't think there going to be any better. I also looked at spacers LMR sells but there $149 I can get a set of Holley or Anderson motorsports valve covers for that much.
Definitely only go with a heavy cast aluminum cover. The sheet metal ones LMR sells leak worse then a 350 SBC. I would run the spacers. I'm committed to my OEM covers haha
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post #93 of 517 Old 03-05-2018, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Definitely only go with a heavy cast aluminum cover. The sheet metal ones LMR sells leak worse then a 350 SBC. I would run the spacers. I'm committed to my OEM covers haha
I'm with you I really wanted to use the factory valve covers on the car. I saw how good you made the ones on your car look so I was planning on keeping mine. I'm going to look at the spacer route 1/2 inch spacer should be plenty of clearance for my car. I'll just have to add a 1/2 spacer to my intake.
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post #94 of 517 Old 03-05-2018, 11:23 AM
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What exactly keeps you from running them? Was it the baffle or just simply they run into the cover? I cut my baffle out and die grinder the china wall out of it, smoothed the corners out and boom, went on without a hitch.
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post #95 of 517 Old 03-05-2018, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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What exactly keeps you from running them? Was it the baffle or just simply they run into the cover? I cut my baffle out and die grinder the china wall out of it, smoothed the corners out and boom, went on without a hitch.
I'm going to dig deeper into them tonight. We had already modified them to run the rockers I had in the old motor so I was hoping they would just fit. I also ran a really thick valve cover gasket which also helped.
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post #96 of 517 Old 03-05-2018, 05:42 PM
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Get the Mahle steel gaskets for $13 a set from Rockauto. They are just like the metal ford gaskets that Ford put in the later cars. Get a few sets and put two or three of them on each side. I have done this many times and they don't leak.
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post #97 of 517 Old 03-09-2018, 10:56 AM
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Wondering about what cam you used?

Jay
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post #98 of 517 Old 03-09-2018, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Wondering about what cam you used?

Jay
The cam I ended up using was from CHP it was based on there 347E cam. I was having a hard time finding a good 347 cam that was smog legal so I contacted them since I knew they had a 347 they sold that has a CARB number. The cam is on the mid to mild side its really not that aggressive since I want the car to blow clean so I can smog it. I might go a bit more aggressive in the future but we will see.
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post #99 of 517 Old 03-09-2018, 12:10 PM
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With the milder hydraulic cam, and the long runner Cobra intake, the motor will be a low rpm torque monster. I had a similar motor (342", Holley intake, Comp hydraulic) in my car before the current configuration. First gear was basically useless, and second was still mighty squirrely. Huge fun factor though.

At the track, my short runner (4barrel style intake), and aggressive solid roller are better suited to open track usage, not sure how it would work out for autocross, as I've never done that. I'll be interested to hear your experiences once she's up and at it!

Jay
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post #100 of 517 Old 03-09-2018, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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With the milder hydraulic cam, and the long runner Cobra intake, the motor will be a low rpm torque monster. I had a similar motor (342", Holley intake, Comp hydraulic) in my car before the current configuration. First gear was basically useless, and second was still mighty squirrely. Huge fun factor though.

At the track, my short runner (4barrel style intake), and aggressive solid roller are better suited to open track usage, not sure how it would work out for autocross, as I've never done that. I'll be interested to hear your experiences once she's up and at it!

Jay
Its one of the things I wanted the car to have is good low end torque. Allot of autocross can be low speed tight corners its good to have something that pull really good around 2500-3000 rpm. You and me both i can't wait to get it up and running I still have allot to do but I'm chipping away at it.
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Peter, make any headway on the flares? I can't help but want to just buy the full quarters/fenders from Maier and then body work those to not look like ####. But it's a 50/50 shot honestly either way.
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Peter, make any headway on the flares? I can't help but want to just buy the full quarters/fenders from Maier and then body work those to not look like ####. But it's a 50/50 shot honestly either way.
I haven't made any progress on them. I have a plan for how I'm going to do it just have to move forward on it. I can see that there is going to be a lot of work to make them nice. I'm not to concerned since I'm not going for a show car but I still want it to look nice. I'm going to use rivets and a 3M panel bonding adhesive to get them attached then my plan is to test the car make sure there are no issues with rubbing then work on cleaning them and smoothing them out. I do have some regret not going with the Maier but at the time I bought my flares they didn't have the new forward offset fenders they do now for the MM suspension. But I will say those also take a lot work to get fitting right talked to a few people and watched some videos and there was plenty of fitment issues with the Maier ones.

I watched a few videos by this guy Basin motorsports and he had to a bit of work on the front to get them right.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuZ...gq2QkCeC0D1lbg
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post #103 of 517 Old 03-12-2018, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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I've got more of the motor apart and the exhaust is starting to come out of the car. I pulled the cat-back to find there must of been moisture in the mufflers since the inside of the mufflers look rusted out so it looks like I will be buying a new cat-back system for the car. I got the lower intake off the car so I could start cleaning it up to put on the new motor.



I disassembled the upper and lower intakes and started cleaning off the gasket surfaces to see how there doing. I can tell they were dried out I thought most of the bolts would be hard to remove but most of them were almost finer tight.







I bought some high temp Ford grey paint for the stock valve covers depending how it turns out I might paint the upper and lower intakes with it but not sure yet. I'm going to clean them up see how they look then decided to paint them or not.

I also took apart my 30lb fuel injectors I had in the car. I bought a rebuild lit for them so I'm going to clean them out and replace the o-rings and the basket filters. I don't see a reason to buy new ones when these just need to be cleaned up.



I'm hoping to start making a plan for removing the engine from the car soon so I can get it out and start cleaning the engine bay. I also want to clean up the wiring harness since in some places the wrapping is coming off.

The plan right now is to get all the mechanical stuff done so I can fire up the car in mid April. So in the next few weeks I want to figure out what I'm going to do for engine management. I have 3 setups I'm looking at now all with there own learning curves and pro and cons.
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post #104 of 517 Old 03-13-2018, 10:36 PM
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Sweet......
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post #105 of 517 Old 03-18-2018, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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I've been working on painting parts for the motor. I got the valve cover, upper and lower intakes paint ford grey. They came out pretty good was kind of worried but I'm happy with them.







I had to add a 1/2 spacer to the intake to clear the valve covers. So I mocked everything up to make sure it fit.



Everything cleared fine so I'm set. The plan now is to get the old motor out do some clean up in the engine bay and get the new motor in the car.

I also got the fuel injectors cleaned and rebuilt. Found this place called The Injector Shop they had the rebuild kit for my injectors.



Things are moving along with the car I'm hoping to get the timing cover, water pump and oil pan installed tonight but we will see.
Peter92lx is offline  
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