1992 LX The street to track to street again build. - Page 14 - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #456 of 480 Old 04-17-2019, 11:14 AM
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That a CarbonX boot with the tags sewn on the other side?

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post #457 of 480 Old 04-17-2019, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Yep I got it from summit its bigger then I need but I plan to cut it up a bit to shorten it and make it work better.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-59101/overview/

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post #458 of 480 Old 04-28-2019, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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So I finally got the car out yesterday and the noise has to be coming from the front of the car it happens under brakes and seem to get worse over time. It also seemed like it started to happen even when I was just driving the car. This was the longest drive I've done with the car and it was only about 7 miles. Now the car is back on jack stands so I can work on finally getting to the bottom this issue.

My first thought it to take the front control arms out check the ball joints and clean and apply fresh grease to the delrin bushings in the control arms. It will also give me a chance to inspect the delrin bushings to see if there is anything wrong with them.





I can also take out the coilovers and check the camber plates to make sure everything is still good with them. Honestly I don't think there is any issues with them or the control arms I'm just running out of ideas.

The other thing I was going to look at was the wheel hubs. They are the original 96 hubs that came on the front spindles when I bought them in 2002 and they have unknown miles.

Now that the car is going to be on jack stands for a bit I figure now is a good time to get the parking brake working right. When I put it in I never eliminated the self adjuster which was the wrong thing to do. So I took it out and removed the spring now I just need to get it welded up.



I also got the parking brake cable from the cobra brake kit. The one the came from wilwood I kind of rigged up and it didn't work very well.



Hopefully this will get the parking brake working on the car.

I also wanted to get the strut tower brace installed on the car. I had already drilled everything but left it out until I got the motor running. It might be early since it doesn't have many miles on it but if for some reason I have to pull the motor what's pulling out the strut tower brace.



I will have to make a minor adjustment to the cold air intake but it shouldn't be a problem.



I have about 1/4 inch from the top of the CAI to the strut tower brace. its kind of hard to see in this picture.



Hopefully I can get her back on the road in a few weeks maybe less. Its funny when I started this project I thought it would take a year to get it done. I'm now coming up on two years. I guess its right what they say always double the amount of time you think the project is going to take.
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post #459 of 480 Old 04-28-2019, 03:30 PM
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Double check that the tip of the rearward FCA mounting bolt is not touching the k-member. If it is, you will have to add an additional washer under the head of this bolt.

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post #460 of 480 Old 04-28-2019, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Double check that the tip of the rearward FCA mounting bolt is not touching the k-member. If it is, you will have to add an additional washer under the head of this bolt.
I'll take look tonight maybe get some pictures. Since the car was sitting on jack stands for 11 years do you think it could have done anything to the ball joints or the delrin bushings? What's the torque settings for the nut on top of the front struts?

I've been meaning to ask you what the status of those new DA coilovers you guys were working on?
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post #461 of 480 Old 04-28-2019, 08:57 PM
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No. The ball joints and Delrin bushings aren't going to degrade from sitting there.

I think the strut nut torque on the Konis is 50lbs-ft. Do NOT use an impact gun.

No update on the DA dampers.

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post #462 of 480 Old 04-28-2019, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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No. The ball joints and Delrin bushings aren't going to degrade from sitting there.

I think the strut nut torque on the Konis is 50lbs-ft. Do NOT use an impact gun.

No update on the DA dampers.
How do you normally keep the shaft from turning when you try and tighten the top nut?
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post #463 of 480 Old 04-28-2019, 09:16 PM
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Use a Crescent wrench on the hex at the top of the shaft to keep it from turning. Put a crows foot on the strut nut. If the centerline of the torque wrench is at right angles to the centerline of the crows foot, there is no torque correction needed.

You can hold the strut nut with a wrench and turn the strut shaft the opposite direction with a socket. The problem with this is that you have to use a higher torque level because there is internal seal friction in the strut and the friction in the c/c plate spherical bearing. You can measure this additional friction with a beam style torque wrench. The main problem is that this new higher torque value may be so high that it rounds off the small hex on the strut shaft.

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post #464 of 480 Old 04-28-2019, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to check that tomorrow. I took the struts out to replace the springs and I'm pretty sure I didn't torque the top nut. I tightened it down with an open end wrench but never checked the torque.
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post #465 of 480 Old 04-29-2019, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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I looked at the control arm bolts last night and I have about an 1/8 of an inch clearance. I'm going to try and check the torque on the struts tonight or tomorrow.

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post #466 of 480 Old 04-29-2019, 03:22 PM
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You check hub nut torque too?
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post #467 of 480 Old 04-29-2019, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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You check hub nut torque too?
No I haven't I got a new set of hubs, hub nuts and dust covers for the car so I'm going to install them. I have to get the ARP wheel studs added to them before I can install them. I figured might as well replace them since they have unknown miles on them.
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post #468 of 480 Old 05-06-2019, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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More work on the car just arrived today.



I bought it off someone on here that had it new inbox never installed. Got a good deal on it so decided to buy it. I had planned on getting one in the future but I figured might as well now. I don't plan on installing it for a couple months I really need to get the car back on the road to get miles on it first. But I figure before my first autocross event I should have it installed.

I haven't done much with the car I got the parking brake working which was harder then I had planned. I have to get two more passes to drive the car on the street since my old ones expired. Now I'm just working on small stuff that needs to get done. I had to replace the lines I was using for the brake booster and reservoir. I had some 3/8 PCV hose left over turns out it didn't make a good vacuum line I looked under the hood and found the lines were getting sucked flat. So I got some proper 3/8 vacuum hose to replace the lines.
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post #469 of 480 Old 05-06-2019, 09:03 PM
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I know you're gonna like it Peter. The TA really transforms the car when coupled with the rest of the hardware available from Maximum.
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post #470 of 480 Old 05-06-2019, 10:02 PM
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Nice pick up Peter, is that the last piece of the MM puzzle?

1993 Cobra BOSS302 331, FTI Ed cam, MM Max Grip, Viper T56, Pro-M EFI, Recaro, Forgeline RS-C
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post #471 of 480 Old 05-07-2019, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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Nice pick up Peter, is that the last piece of the MM puzzle?
That is the last piece of the MM puzzle. Can't wait to get it installed on the car. I still need to talk with Jack to see if the 300lb springs I have in the rear will be a good match for the 400lb I have in the front.
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post #472 of 480 Old 05-07-2019, 01:09 AM
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I think as long as you are 100-125 Ib less in the rear, you should be fine.

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post #473 of 480 Old 05-08-2019, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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I think as long as you are 100-125 Ib less in the rear, you should be fine.
That's what I've been reading if you have a 100lb less in the rear you should be good so I'm not going to change the springs.
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post #474 of 480 Old 05-08-2019, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Been getting more work done on the car mostly little things. I got the parking brake work which was allot harder then I have planned. It wouldn't have been so hard if I had set it up properly in the first place. I also added steering rack limiters to the car since the tires kept rubbing on the inner fenders and control arms. So I added two limiters to each side and it solved the problem.

I'm also adding some sheet metal to the inner fenders to protect a few things. I'm starting to work on the driver side to protect the vacuum canister.



I started to make a template so I could cut it out of metal.



I got it cut out of metal but its still kind of rough I need to clean it up and make some mounts.



Still working out the mounts but it should be pretty easy to get it secured. Then I'm planning on building something to protect the top of the fenders.
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post #475 of 480 Old 05-18-2019, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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Who wants to play name that noise. So I took the car out and still haven't figured out what is causing the noise that the car is making under braking. I decided to get my phone out and record it. You can start to hear the noise right away in the video. It happens under brakes not when the car is under load. It still makes it whether the clutch is in or out.

I might have been chasing the wrong thing the noise now that I'm focusing on it more it seems like it might be coming from the drivetrain. The video is 6 minutes long you can hear every time I use the brakes. It gets loader the longer I drive it. Let me know what you guys think. Sorry for the poor video quality.

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post #476 of 480 Old 05-20-2019, 02:49 PM
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Who wants to play name that noise. So I took the car out and still haven't figured out what is causing the noise that the car is making under braking. I decided to get my phone out and record it. You can start to hear the noise right away in the video. It happens under brakes not when the car is under load. It still makes it whether the clutch is in or out.

I might have been chasing the wrong thing the noise now that I'm focusing on it more it seems like it might be coming from the drivetrain. The video is 6 minutes long you can hear every time I use the brakes. It gets loader the longer I drive it. Let me know what you guys think. Sorry for the poor video quality.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNIZnibZc1c
Weird, have you checked your pads and calipers to make sure nothing is loose or missing?
No vibrations under braking? Any noise when coasting?

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post #477 of 480 Old 05-20-2019, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Weird, have you checked your pads and calipers to make sure nothing is loose or missing?
No vibrations under braking? Any noise when coasting?
I've taken the front brakes apart a couple of times and can't seem to find a cause for the noise in the brakes. I went through and checked all the torque settings on the suspension and everything looks good. I was going to look at the coilovers next since I did remove them to install the new springs. The only part that sucks is I will have to align the car again if I take the struts out.
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post #478 of 480 Old 05-20-2019, 05:21 PM
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You should not have to realign the car if you remove the struts.

It would be helpful if you can redo the video so that we can see all three pedals while the noise is occurring. That way we can correlate the noise with the pedal motion, time and travel.

I assume that the noise in question is the knock, knock, knock. Correct?

Is the frequency of the noise 100% correlated to the rpm of the tires?

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post #479 of 480 Old 05-20-2019, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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You should not have to realign the car if you remove the struts.

It would be helpful if you can redo the video so that we can see all three pedals while the noise is occurring. That way we can correlate the noise with the pedal motion, time and travel.

I assume that the noise in question is the knock, knock, knock. Correct?

Is the frequency of the noise 100% correlated to the rpm of the tires?
I might try and take a look at the struts tonight to see if I notice anything.

I'll see about setting up my gopro camera to focus on my feet.

The sound is the knock knock knock sound you can hear when I'm on the brakes with the clutch in.

Yes the frequency of the noise is correlated to the tire rpm. The knocks slow down as the car slows down.
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post #480 of 480 Old Today, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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I looked over the coilovers the past couple nights and I don't see anything that would cause the knocking sound. I decided to focus again on the brakes. I did notice that it looks like the rotor isn't centered in the caliper. I hadn't noticed it before but you can really see it now. The pictures below don't really show it very well it looks allot more offset in person.







Here's the with the pads removed you can see the outside pistons are sticking out allot further then the ones on the inside pistons.





Not saying this is the problem but the rotor should be centered in the caliper better. I've read a few posts on different sites about people complaining that there wilwood brakes are making knocking sounds. Some fixed it by adjusting the caliper placement some fixed by removing the wilwood pads for other manufacturers pads and a few people have put a slight bevel on the edge of the pads. Hopefully I can get the car out this weekend to test anything I try this week.
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