My low fan isnt coming on. - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 05-09-2002, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy My low fan isnt coming on.

Ive noticed that my car has been running hot for the past month. Today I let the car sit in the driveway and idle. The fan kicked on at the A in the NORMAL gauge. It knocked the temp down to M then cut off. Never changing speeds or anything. The car then warmed back up to A and the process repeated itself. Does anyone know where I can start trouble shooting to see why the low speed fan doesnt come on?



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post #2 of 10 Old 05-09-2002, 07:08 PM
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If you are sure the low speed isn't coming on, check the connector on the fan. These go out frequently. In fact, mine is sporting spade connectors instead of the stock plug because it melted. If not that, it may be the CCRM module in the passenger fender. This is a relay bank that sends the signal from the EEC to the fan.

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post #3 of 10 Old 05-09-2002, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Ill check the connector now. About the CCRM, how hard is it to replace and how much?

Do you think installing a manual fan switch would help at all? I know it wouldnt be the correct thing to do, but it would keep the car cooler.

Update: I noticed that the hose coming from the Fill Neck (by the alternator) was crimped. I fixed that and the car is currently sitting between the R and M. I hope that is what something that simple and not anything more serious. I will keep you guys updated.

Does anyone know if this effects performance?


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Last edited by slosvt; 05-09-2002 at 07:30 PM.
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post #4 of 10 Old 05-09-2002, 08:46 PM
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If you have CCRM problems it is easy to replace. Remove the plastic fender liner and you will see it. Not sure of the price...$150?

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post #5 of 10 Old 05-09-2002, 09:22 PM
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A new CCRM costs $117 from Ford.

I just replaced this a couple months ago. My fan would stay on constant even after I shut the car down and took the key out of the ignition. I had to pull the battery cable to shut the fan off. I replaced the CCRM based on someone elses recommendation and everything worked out fine.

If you have small hands and arms like me, you can install it by simply removing the MAF and intake tubing and filter and reach in thru the existing inlet holes with a 1/2" drive socket wrench.

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post #6 of 10 Old 05-09-2002, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Well the crimped hose did not solve the problem. The car will still reach the A at idle. It turns out the low fan is what cuts on when the car reaches the A. I installed a fan switch and it really helps a lot. Im changing my coolant and t-stat Saturday, so I hope that helps too.


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post #7 of 10 Old 05-09-2002, 10:49 PM
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Make sure you don't have an air bubble in your coolant tube. Your car has two sensors. One for the gauge and one for the computer. The one to the computer tells the EEC to turn on the fan. They are in the black tube in front of the alternator.

If there is an air bubble in there it won't measure the temp right and could delay turning on the fan. A faulty sending unit could cause the problem too.

Chris

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post #8 of 10 Old 05-09-2002, 10:58 PM
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I too have been having problems with my fan coming on. Could the temp sensor cause the fan to just not turn on?

Chris
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post #9 of 10 Old 05-10-2002, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Make sure you don't have an air bubble in your coolant tube. Your car has two sensors. One for the gauge and one for the computer. The one to the computer tells the EEC to turn on the fan. They are in the black tube in front of the alternator.
I plan on changing my coolant and flushing the system tomorrow. Does anyone know if PepBoys stocks t-stats. I went to AutoZone and Advanced Auto last night and neither carried them in stock. Would it be beneficial to get a 180* t-stat or should I stick with a stock type unit?


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post #10 of 10 Old 05-10-2002, 12:40 PM
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I would go with a 180* stat... personally. However, my 96 cobra runs hot no matter what I do to the cooling system, so what do I know


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