Anybody in the ATL area ever install a PA or regular valve body in an Auto? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 4 Old 04-16-2002, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Anybody in the ATL area ever install a PA or regular valve body in an Auto?

Hey guys,

Long story but I am in serious need of help. Has anybody ever installed a PA valve body that lives in georgia or taken out their stock valve body and modified it? PA sold me a faulty transbrake and my friend @ Ford can no longer work on my vehicle and I need to get this valve body in there but am seriously affraid of tampering with it myself (attempted this once and said no way) If anybody thinks they can help me out please let me know as I am coming up to the Fun Ford show this weekend.

Thanks


Jonathan
2000 Performance Red GT Auto to 5spd/Old Car: 96 Metallic Green Auto GT
  • Fordchip Tuned Dyno #'s:407.6 RWHP 386.5 TQ with car seriously de-tuned for "bottom-end" reasons.
  • Go-fast mods:Steeda Hood and Wing, Saleen side scoops & front bumper, Stalker sideskirts, FMS "C" Springs 1 Coil cut in the rear, Nitto 555R's(front) & Drag Radials(rear)
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  • Tranny & Drivetrain:Tremec TKO 5-speed, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, Steeda adj quadrant clutch cable, Spec Stage III clutch, Spec Aluminum Flywheel, FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft, 4.10 FRPP gears
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    ----------Old Auto Tranny Setup---------
    TransGO, then PA transbrake valvebody, 3200 lockup Art Carr converter, SVO tranny cooler.

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post #2 of 4 Old 04-16-2002, 07:30 PM
 
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Rancid,

I don't live in Georgia but what your talking is pretty easy. When I had my 4R I rebuilt my V-body. To sum up, just open the case(collecting the fluid). Pull the filter out of its bore. Unhook the various wiring. Watch out there's a small screen, don't lose that. I think it's 10mm or 11mm socket,( a while ago). I think its 10-12 bolts and pull it out. Its an awkard heavy if your looking up at it. Thats it. Its pretty simplistic. I don't know what your mechanical level is but if you take your time you won't mess up. You can also check out the tranny articles at TCCOA. com. They have a step by step write-up and it tells you how to crack the case and get that v-body out. You ought to check it out. Hope this helps, R.

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post #3 of 4 Old 04-16-2002, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks man,

A friend of a friend is going to help me do it so I'll feel better. When it comes to tranny's im very weery of messing with them b/c of the cost to replace parts I'll let everyone know how it goes.

Thanks again.
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post #4 of 4 Old 04-16-2002, 11:14 PM
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rancid:

(DOH! I missed "Aluminum"'s reply above. Like he said....)

Over at tccoa.com, trusty old "A-Train" (Anthony) wrote up a great article on removing the main control -- in preparation to do the "Jerry mod" shift kit thing. You'll see his article (Shifty Business?) under the Tech Articles section of the site. Very helpful. He gives you a step-by-step procedure to get the valve body off. If you don't have them and before you start, pick up two new gaskets for the separator plate (the one that goes on top of the separator plate and mates to the transmission and the one that goes between the separator plate and the valve body). They are cheap at less than $3 each (from Ford).

Free advice. There is a plastic L-shaped connector that connects the solenoids and the manual lever position sensor (I think that's what it connects to) to the main transmission socket. It is flexible but you have to remove it CAREFULLY. If you get a fingertip under each side of the plastic piece and wiggle it straight down, it will come off without breaking. There is a 'snap connection' connection at either end and in the middle at the solenoids. Take your time, this plastic piece is the trickiest piece to remove.

Good luck with the new valve body and at the FFW.

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