Anybody in the ATL area ever install a PA or regular valve body in an Auto? - Ford Mustang Forums : Mustang Forum
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 4 Old 04-16-2002, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Warner Robins
Posts: 1,558
Anybody in the ATL area ever install a PA or regular valve body in an Auto?

Hey guys,

Long story but I am in serious need of help. Has anybody ever installed a PA valve body that lives in georgia or taken out their stock valve body and modified it? PA sold me a faulty transbrake and my friend @ Ford can no longer work on my vehicle and I need to get this valve body in there but am seriously affraid of tampering with it myself (attempted this once and said no way) If anybody thinks they can help me out please let me know as I am coming up to the Fun Ford show this weekend.


2000 Performance Red GT Auto to 5spd/Old Car: 96 Metallic Green Auto GT
  • Fordchip Tuned Dyno #'s:407.6 RWHP 386.5 TQ with car seriously de-tuned for "bottom-end" reasons.
  • Go-fast mods:Steeda Hood and Wing, Saleen side scoops & front bumper, Stalker sideskirts, FMS "C" Springs 1 Coil cut in the rear, Nitto 555R's(front) & Drag Radials(rear)
  • Blower Mods:Vortech JT-Trim, 3.60 RR Pulley (8 psi) 42 lb inj, Lightning 90mm MAF, no powerpipe.
  • Tranny & Drivetrain:Tremec TKO 5-speed, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, Steeda adj quadrant clutch cable, Spec Stage III clutch, Spec Aluminum Flywheel, FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft, 4.10 FRPP gears
  • Intake & Air:Bullit Intake with a K&N & Pro MAF 77mm (removed), Cold-Air Ind. using a Densecharger
  • Misc & Engine:Steeda UnderDrive Pulleys, Steeda Timing Adjuster set back to 10, 180 thermo, Autolite TR764 Coppers, EEC Tuner (Removed) now using Autologic Chip (*ALL REMOVED FOR BLOWER*
  • Exhaust:MAC 2.5" Inch Catback with 3.5" Chrome Tips, MAC Longtubes & MAC Off-Hpipe (grins everytime I start the car)

    ----------Old Auto Tranny Setup---------
    TransGO, then PA transbrake valvebody, 3200 lockup Art Carr converter, SVO tranny cooler.

    -Special Thanks to David Posea, White99GT (Bill), Cobra Killer (Tim), Jason at Higgins Ford Performance Racing, and Shawn Sullivan.
rancid is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 4 Old 04-16-2002, 07:30 PM
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 722

I don't live in Georgia but what your talking is pretty easy. When I had my 4R I rebuilt my V-body. To sum up, just open the case(collecting the fluid). Pull the filter out of its bore. Unhook the various wiring. Watch out there's a small screen, don't lose that. I think it's 10mm or 11mm socket,( a while ago). I think its 10-12 bolts and pull it out. Its an awkard heavy if your looking up at it. Thats it. Its pretty simplistic. I don't know what your mechanical level is but if you take your time you won't mess up. You can also check out the tranny articles at TCCOA. com. They have a step by step write-up and it tells you how to crack the case and get that v-body out. You ought to check it out. Hope this helps, R.

Aluminum is offline  
post #3 of 4 Old 04-16-2002, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Warner Robins
Posts: 1,558
Thanks man,

A friend of a friend is going to help me do it so I'll feel better. When it comes to tranny's im very weery of messing with them b/c of the cost to replace parts I'll let everyone know how it goes.

Thanks again.
rancid is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #4 of 4 Old 04-16-2002, 11:14 PM
Corral Elite Member
nyuk98gt's Avatar
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Chesterfield, MO
Posts: 2,054

(DOH! I missed "Aluminum"'s reply above. Like he said....)

Over at, trusty old "A-Train" (Anthony) wrote up a great article on removing the main control -- in preparation to do the "Jerry mod" shift kit thing. You'll see his article (Shifty Business?) under the Tech Articles section of the site. Very helpful. He gives you a step-by-step procedure to get the valve body off. If you don't have them and before you start, pick up two new gaskets for the separator plate (the one that goes on top of the separator plate and mates to the transmission and the one that goes between the separator plate and the valve body). They are cheap at less than $3 each (from Ford).

Free advice. There is a plastic L-shaped connector that connects the solenoids and the manual lever position sensor (I think that's what it connects to) to the main transmission socket. It is flexible but you have to remove it CAREFULLY. If you get a fingertip under each side of the plastic piece and wiggle it straight down, it will come off without breaking. There is a 'snap connection' connection at either end and in the middle at the solenoids. Take your time, this plastic piece is the trickiest piece to remove.

Good luck with the new valve body and at the FFW.

2012 GT 6MT - RTR #59; performance white / charcoal interior
3.73's, AED tune, MGW Race Spec shifter, Airaid MFT, BMR rear LCAs & relo brackets, Panhard rod & brace, FRPP swaybars, MRT a/c H-pipe, LP OTAs, FR GT500 Touring axlebacks, FRPP diff cover, JLT PCV p/s catchcan
nyuk98gt is offline  
Sponsored Links


Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forums : Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome