Corral Elite Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Chesterfield, MO
(DOH! I missed "Aluminum"'s reply above. Like he said....)
Over at tccoa.com, trusty old "A-Train" (Anthony) wrote up a great article on removing the main control -- in preparation to do the "Jerry mod" shift kit thing. You'll see his article (Shifty Business?) under the Tech Articles section of the site. Very helpful. He gives you a step-by-step procedure to get the valve body off. If you don't have them and before you start, pick up two new gaskets for the separator plate (the one that goes on top of the separator plate and mates to the transmission and the one that goes between the separator plate and the valve body). They are cheap at less than $3 each (from Ford).
Free advice. There is a plastic L-shaped connector that connects the solenoids and the manual lever position sensor (I think that's what it connects to) to the main transmission socket. It is flexible but you have to remove it CAREFULLY. If you get a fingertip under each side of the plastic piece and wiggle it straight down, it will come off without breaking. There is a 'snap connection' connection at either end and in the middle at the solenoids. Take your time, this plastic piece is the trickiest piece to remove.
Good luck with the new valve body and at the FFW.
2012 GT 6MT - RTR #59; performance white / charcoal interior
3.73's, AED tune, MGW Race Spec shifter, Airaid MFT, BMR rear LCAs & relo brackets, Panhard rod & brace, FRPP swaybars, MRT a/c H-pipe, LP OTAs, FR GT500 Touring axlebacks, FRPP diff cover, JLT PCV p/s catchcan