Just ordered my S-type blow off valve!!!!!oh yeah - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 21 Old 03-22-2002, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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Just ordered my S-type blow off valve!!!!!oh yeah

Well, I'm having surge problems now with my raised boost. I still have the plastic POS Vortech valve. SO I orederd the Greddy blow off valve. I'm going to feed it back into the intake though. I guess I'll miss out on the huge "SWISH", but oh well. I wanted something very responsive, and the Japanese blow off valves are great. I didn't want to waste money on the crappy Vortech "mini racing bypass valve", screw that POS too!!!

Anyway, I got the flange also. All together I got a great deal.

Greddy s-type blow off valve: $195
Aluminum Flange: $25
Shipping: $20 (to hawaii)

Not bad considering Vortech wants $220 for their crappy bypass valve.

Woohoo!!!!

Kinda sucks I'm having surge problems with this damn thing. I should have known running this much boost was going to crap out that nasty plastic valve. I really get it bad on the highway over like 50mph. I was on my way home after the intercooler install and I noticed it soon as I went over 55mph. The car started jerking around Oh well, I get to drive a nice A$$ 260hp Nissan Maxima for a week (at the expense of the dealership) (long story)

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post #2 of 21 Old 03-22-2002, 08:54 PM
 
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What is so "crappy" about the Vortech mini race bypass (Maxflow) valve. I have one and it works great. It also seems to be a well built piece. Please explain!

Chad

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post #3 of 21 Old 03-22-2002, 09:09 PM
 
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Boosted is very anti Vortech. Everything Vortech makes is "crappy"

Dude anyway go and do some research. It Is a VERY COMMON for suging to be a by product of using an A/A cooler. Several have experienced this with the Fasttrack unit. It can be easily solved by adding another bypass, several here have had the same problems.
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post #4 of 21 Old 03-22-2002, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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hehehehe.....I guess I just had bad experiences with my unit
But every good shop recommends a Japanese blow off valve instead of the Vortech or HKS bypass valves. The mini race valves do work okay, just not great like the blow off valves. I ordered a Greddy, which actually makes parts for the Vortech housing, but even Greddy told me its not very good, AND THEY MAKE IT

No, I'm sure it works fine. But not as well as the Greddy S or R-type. I guess VOrtech pisses me off with their prices too. I'm always buying their stupid pullies for WAY TOO MUCH, because they say I won't keep my warranty without using the Vortech ones. I could get away with using the aftermarket ones, and put a Vortech one on there, but they said they have heard the other ones sometimes have problems.

$85 including shipping for a supercharger pulley is ridiculous.

I like Jamie and Mike over there though. They have helped me a lot. I'm just not too happy with the S-trim head unit.

I overexadurated about the bypass being a POS, but i just don't prefer it. And Greddy i guess confirmed what I believed about them. THey make both of them, so I'm going to take their word for it.

MIRK, your on my A$$ all the time now SSSOKAY....its fun!!!

(I'm such a D!CK sometimes, just ignore me when i get all #####ty and start saying parts suck, and start talking smack) just comes out sometimes
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post #5 of 21 Old 03-22-2002, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by blownMIRK01
Boosted is very anti Vortech. Everything Vortech makes is "crappy"

Dude anyway go and do some research. It Is a VERY COMMON for suging to be a by product of using an A/A cooler. Several have experienced this with the Fasttrack unit. It can be easily solved by adding another bypass, several here have had the same problems.
Tim, it is not that he is anti-Vortech, it's just if it doesn't fit his application, then it has to be a POS to him. Did you note that all was fine with his so called stock POS until he added the IC and changed to a smaller pully yet.


Shades of Paul99GT.

I couldn't even get the surging cured with a second bypass, we had to go with a Blow-thru MAF.

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post #6 of 21 Old 03-22-2002, 11:58 PM
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Hey guys, could you describe this surging you are talking about? I'm having a small stutter around 2500 rpm on very light throttle, goes away when you accelerate a little harder. I'm wondering about this since I run a 2.87" pullie and still have the stock vortech bypass. Could it be my problem? I always thought too small a bypass would only cause problems under boost after you let off the gas.
Bob

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post #7 of 21 Old 03-23-2002, 01:02 AM
 
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why couldn't you make it to where it had that "SWOOSH" noise to it?
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post #8 of 21 Old 03-23-2002, 01:56 AM
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Like Boss96 said, let's keep this thread going (and NOT by way of flaming!)

I am running the stock 3.6" pulley and get a slight stutter around 2900 RPM at 50% throttle. At first, I thought that I might be running too rich during once I hit that RPM level, but now, I am thinking that maybe my stock Vortech bypass is to blame.

Any ideas? I guess that for myself and Boss96, pulley size is not an issue with regards to the stutter, as we are both experiencing the same thing at light throttle = no boost.

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post #9 of 21 Old 03-23-2002, 04:41 AM
 
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As far as surging goes. Mostly all SC cars will have a slight surge/buck. This happens when you are in vaccuum at the point that the bypass is opening and closing. I experience it, as am sure do most. Easiest way to avoid this is to start shifting a little earlier. It just comes with supercharging your car. Of course this is only at say part throttle right around 10inches of vacuum or at least I think I kinda just got home from a bar/club type place.

Boosted- No hard feelings man I just like to let the newbies lurking that vortech's stuff is still good (better than ATI anyway THats my cheap shot at ATI, no need to take me seriously!) Just these past couple days you are going through an anti vortech this and that. I hear ya though, just trying to keep it somewhat 50-50 Its all good
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post #10 of 21 Old 03-23-2002, 09:26 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Monkie
why couldn't you make it to where it had that "SWOOSH" noise to it?
because he'd be venting metered air back into the atmosphere, which would make the car go super rich on shifts and foul the plugs?

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post #11 of 21 Old 03-23-2002, 01:30 PM
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Thanks guys, I guess that makes sense and I suppose I could get rid of it with an adjustable blowoff valve.
Josh, both cars broken? What's up?
Bob

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post #12 of 21 Old 03-24-2002, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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Naaa, Vortech is okay. THe Vortech aftercoolers are actually good units for the drag strip, but not for tearing up highways all the time. The bypass valves are okay, just not as responsive as the Greddy blow off S-type. THe head units are good, but not as good as they should be. The pullies are expensive.

I just get iritated that every time I get a new expensive mod, I end up with another problem I didn't have before I vent, and end up getting people pissed.

Yes you guys are correct. The IC is what is making this problem for me. I'm putting the greddy on before the IC, and soon as the shop opens tomorrow I'm ordering my 2nd Greddy S-type. I was thinking maybe I should go Greddy R-type(really big!!!) for before the IC and the s-type after since I think I'm making 15psi-16# before the cooler and like 13-14#'s after the cooler. I've done a lot of research in the last 24 hours and found out my symtoms line up exactly with needing a 2nd bypass valve. If they don't completely get rid of my problem, then i will have to try doing the blow through MAF. Both of these together should solve the problem.

Thanx so much for the help guys. I'm still a Vortech fan, by the way, just had a bad string of problems lately, and its not really even VOrtech's fault most of the time.

ROB
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post #13 of 21 Old 03-24-2002, 05:54 PM
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Boosted...Like i said in the PM, I don't think there is anything wrong with the stock bypass valve, and I use two of them. I can't imagine needing two "race" valves. You may still need to turn your idle up with your chip.

Ralph Greene
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post #14 of 21 Old 03-24-2002, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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The stock Vortech bypass is only rated at 10psi I think. I'm running 14#'s remember. Even the S-type is supposed to be used for 12-16# applications. Vortech says the Bosch one starts leaking almost as soon as you start making boost, because the spring is not very tough, and is only made to handle around 8psi and perform well enough. They recommend the mini race bypass valve for anything over 10psi, and the Mondo for anything over 14#'s. I'm building my engine up in June so there is no point in me buying another valve i will not be able to use later. I have the money, so why not just boot it out of the way now, rather than later????

I'm sure the stock bypass is working fine for you since you only have the 10# pulley on, and that is through an intercooler, so I'm guessing you only see around 7-8psi, and I run almost twice that.

Since I'm running over 15#'s of boost before the IC the S-type would be close to maxxed out, and the R-type is only $20 more, and is perfect for this application. The s-type is perfect for after the IC too. I don't want to half A$$ it ya know. THis is going to be a hell of a hp monster soon, so I need all quality parts.

Thanx though.
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post #15 of 21 Old 03-24-2002, 08:54 PM
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Ralph, what kind of boost level are you seeing with the S-trim upgrade and 3.33 pully on your Cobra?

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post #16 of 21 Old 03-25-2002, 07:53 AM
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15 LBS at 7500. A little less at the 7200 I usually restrict myself to. My FastTrack IC restricts 1-2 LBS boost.

Ralph Greene

Last edited by Ralph Greene; 03-25-2002 at 07:56 AM.
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post #17 of 21 Old 03-25-2002, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ralph Greene
15 LBS at 7500. A little less at the 7200 I usually restrict myself to. My FastTrack IC restricts 1-2 LBS boost.
Thanks Ralph. I don't think Boosted understands what an upgraded S-Trim and a 3.33 pully means on a Cobra that spins a bit higher then a GT.

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post #18 of 21 Old 03-25-2002, 11:36 AM
 
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Hey guy's,
Whats an "upgraded" S trim?
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post #19 of 21 Old 03-25-2002, 11:57 AM
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It's basically the Vortech GT impeller used on a Cobra , in place of the Cobra impeller. The Cobra kit is called SC Trim, and the GT is called S Trim.

The impeller design (pitch) of the GT impeller is designed give around 8 LBS boost about 1000 RPM's less than the Cobra design. Thus the GT impeller design is a more agressive design and will make more boost at the same RPM than the Cobra impeller.

So...When one uses the GT impeller on a Cobra, and spins it to 7000 + RPM, one gets 3-4 LBS more boost than if using the Cobra impeller. You can also run a larger pulley on a Cobra with the upgrade, run same boost as with smaller SC pulley with less chance of belt slip, and a little less heat (in theory). Works great! If I were adding a blower to a Cobra, I would just start out that way.

Ralph Greene
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post #20 of 21 Old 04-22-2002, 03:55 PM
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how is the greddy type R BOV compared to the S? if things go well...ill be welding that on my procharger kit....

why do so many pple rip on Procharger? sure their customer service stinks....and i think vortech has great products for the street/strip....but i havent seen one run in the 6's yet and be self contained....oh well...just my opinons...flame on! hehehehehe


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post #21 of 21 Old 04-22-2002, 08:41 PM
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Ive got nothing but praise for my Procharger.

Im ordering up a Greddy S-type as well, found em for $180. Anyways, they DO have the adjustable feature on the sound to be louder and softer.

And I do hear the bypass make a little "woosh" or "pop" noise on the little stock crappy bypass with the Procharger kit that goes back to the intake anyways, Im sure if the Greddy is louder it should make some difference, goin back to the intake or not.

98GT
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