Transbrake on R470W? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 03-15-2002, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Transbrake on R470W?

Anyone here have a transbrake on the R470W tranny? If so, what brand, how much was it, and how hard is it to install? Also pricing would be great as well......

Thank you,
Tim


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post #2 of 17 Old 03-15-2002, 01:51 PM
 
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Wink Trans Brake

Performance Automatic right there in Gaithersburg,MD That's who's transbrake I use. Give Harvey a call and he'll fix you right up.
1-800-767-8174 Tell him John Edwards sent you.

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post #3 of 17 Old 03-15-2002, 01:52 PM
 
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Tim,

I just found one on Performance Automatic web page for $447. Send a PM to The Game. I'm sure I read where he is running one.
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post #4 of 17 Old 03-15-2002, 01:55 PM
 
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John,

Can you explain how that thing works? Forgive my ignorance, but doesn't it consist of a transbrake valve body and a differnt type of shifter? How does it behave when driving on the street, do you have to shift it like a manual shift valve body?
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post #5 of 17 Old 03-15-2002, 02:34 PM
 
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www.performanceautomatic.com

Your tranny will still behave well on the street. The valve body is modified so your shift will be a little harder and more consistant. I pretty sure its not a manual shifter. PA doesn't offer them for the newer trannies yet.

PM The Game he has one.

Eric
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post #6 of 17 Old 03-16-2002, 03:03 AM
 
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Performance Automatic all the way! John and I both have the PA Transbrake Valvebody. He claims it doesn't release fast enough...........I think he just can't cut a light. j/k Edwards.

I personally love the transbrake. Place the shifter in low gear and press the button. Once engaged, the t-brake locks low and reverse against each other. This holds the car still and allows you to simply mat the throttle to the floor. The engine will only rev up to the stall speed of the converter. When you release the button, the brake releases the reverse band and ***WHAM***......you're gone. I have a factory converter in my car and it stalls to 2600 against the brake. Think of it as a clutch for an automatic car. Once you are off and running, just throw the shifter into "D" and let the computer shift the transmission. Simple and consistent. Full throttle shifts are nice and hard.

The day-in and day-out driving isn't affected either. Full auto functions are retained. Part throttle shifts are nice. Nothing bone-jarring or severe. I HIGHLY recommend installing a transmission cooler like the B&M race unit. Call Harvey/Tom/Gerald at
Performance Automatic and talk to them about it. Tell them that John and SD sent you.
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post #7 of 17 Old 03-16-2002, 03:15 AM
 
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Wow, thats got to be way harder on your tranny than my 3000 stall is. I like having the 3000 available at any split second, that is why I chose it over the transbrake. The converter is more for the street where I spend all my time. I thought about getting a transbreak too, but there would be no way to hold my tires to the ground. I already have problems sticking with the converter alone. You don't really get the BAMMMM with the converter, but you are moving pretty fast right away, and it helps keep traction that way. THe higher stall is more gradual than a transbreak by far. I may still get one just because I don't like holding the break pedal for building RPM while about to take off.
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post #8 of 17 Old 03-16-2002, 03:19 AM
 
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You'd be surprised. The transmission will actually build more heat by "foot braking" the transmission than holding it with the transbrake. You can also get more stall out of a converter by running it up against the transbrake than you can by foot-braking the car. Ask John.............he has a converter in his car.
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post #9 of 17 Old 03-16-2002, 10:03 AM
 
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trans-brake

My brake holds my car at 4,000rpm. Best 60' time is 1.67 with stock engine and bolt ons in sig. Everyday driving is not affected by the brake except you have to ingage it to back up which is no big deal.
SD....new engine is in.........will dyno 3-22-02. See you in Commerce.
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post #10 of 17 Old 03-16-2002, 02:26 PM
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Dumb question but do you need the Valve Body to go with the Transbrake or will the standard one work? Mine already has a transgo in it with a 3200 stall so I am wondering how the transbrake would work on my car. This is something I am def. going to look into getting now.


Jonathan
2000 Performance Red GT Auto to 5spd/Old Car: 96 Metallic Green Auto GT
  • Fordchip Tuned Dyno #'s:407.6 RWHP 386.5 TQ with car seriously de-tuned for "bottom-end" reasons.
  • Go-fast mods:Steeda Hood and Wing, Saleen side scoops & front bumper, Stalker sideskirts, FMS "C" Springs 1 Coil cut in the rear, Nitto 555R's(front) & Drag Radials(rear)
  • Blower Mods:Vortech JT-Trim, 3.60 RR Pulley (8 psi) 42 lb inj, Lightning 90mm MAF, no powerpipe.
  • Tranny & Drivetrain:Tremec TKO 5-speed, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, Steeda adj quadrant clutch cable, Spec Stage III clutch, Spec Aluminum Flywheel, FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft, 4.10 FRPP gears
  • Intake & Air:Bullit Intake with a K&N & Pro MAF 77mm (removed), Cold-Air Ind. using a Densecharger
  • Misc & Engine:Steeda UnderDrive Pulleys, Steeda Timing Adjuster set back to 10, 180 thermo, Autolite TR764 Coppers, EEC Tuner (Removed) now using Autologic Chip (*ALL REMOVED FOR BLOWER*
  • Exhaust:MAC 2.5" Inch Catback with 3.5" Chrome Tips, MAC Longtubes & MAC Off-Hpipe (grins everytime I start the car)

    ----------Old Auto Tranny Setup---------
    TransGO, then PA transbrake valvebody, 3200 lockup Art Carr converter, SVO tranny cooler.

    -Special Thanks to David Posea, White99GT (Bill), Cobra Killer (Tim), Jason at Higgins Ford Performance Racing, and Shawn Sullivan.
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post #11 of 17 Old 03-16-2002, 10:55 PM
 
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Rancid,
The transbrake is part of a new valvebody that you receive from PA. You remove your existing valvebody (with it's shift kit) and install the new valvebody. Then drill the pan for the electrical connector; run your wiring; mount your button; fill with fluid; then lock and load.


John,
Great to hear about the new engine. Is this one a "special"? I'm debating whether or not to do the headswap on mine before Reynolds. As if I've got the time.................LOL. Guess it would give Richard and Greg something to do next Saturday though. See you in Commerce!
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post #12 of 17 Old 03-17-2002, 01:00 AM
 
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Damn, Now I Gotta get a Transbrake
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post #13 of 17 Old 03-17-2002, 09:57 AM
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Tim

Ditto.. I have a Performance Auto transbrake valvebody on the 4R70W they built for me but I haven't installed the tranny in the car yet. Gimme a few weeks and it will be in...

-Nate
'98 Cobra Coupe
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post #14 of 17 Old 03-17-2002, 04:12 PM
 
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so if you were just wanting to get a good shift kit or valve body you all would recomend something like their valve body for a 4r70w then a transgo??
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post #15 of 17 Old 03-17-2002, 04:26 PM
 
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I already Have a Shift Kit, So I Take The whole valve Body out including the Shift Kit and discard then Replace With the PA Valvebody/Transbrake? All that included For Under $500?
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post #16 of 17 Old 03-17-2002, 07:10 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by veech
I already Have a Shift Kit, So I Take The whole valve Body out including the Shift Kit and discard then Replace With the PA Valvebody/Transbrake? All that included For Under $500?

Yup. For those of you who don't want the transbrake, PA has the Street/Strip valvebody for around $300. Excellent shifts and great street/strip performance. Just no transbrake. Screw the shift kit stuff. I personally prefer a valvebody that is modified for performance instead of screwing around with the stock unit.
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post #17 of 17 Old 04-09-2002, 05:14 PM
 
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Well, I just talked to Level 10 again and they say shipping will be $600 for the tranny + I will have to pay $600 to ship my core to them only to get a $600 deposit back, so now my tranny would cost $3500

So anyway, I said screw that, I ordered their rebuild kit which includes every single upgraded item that the built tranny has including Reybestos blue plated clutches, and seals, bearings, etc. for $480 shipped and also called Performance Automatic and they are going to send me their valve body with trans break HELL YEAH!!!!! I just saved a hell of a lot of money, and my mechanic just said he was going to charge $200 for the tranny swap, but with the kit and VB he said he will only charge me $400!!!!! So basically I'm getting a bulletproof tranny for $1300 + $70 in synthetic Redline oil, not bad at all if I might say so myself. I was prepared to pay Level 10 $2300 + a $600 core charge which I wasn't going to send back for about 6 months, and $600 for shipping it to me, and $600 to send it back!!!!!!!! and thats not including my PA valve body I was about to order

Oh by the way PA offers to trans break Valve bodies:

1. one that overides the whole computer and has to be manually
shifted all the time.

2. the one I got, that retains all automatic qualities, and all you
have to do is put the trans into low gear, engage the trans
break, and throw it into drive real quick.

BOth are for $447. There is also a VB without trans break for $300, screw that, I would have regretted not having a trans break for the strip when I have slicks
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