Coolant comming out of reservior but not overheating - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 27 Old 05-01-2019, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Coolant comming out of reservior but not overheating

I had my 03 Procharged GT out, 85 degrees out today, when I pulled got home after a 10 mile drive I noticed it had coolant bubbling out of the reservoir but the engine wasn't overheating on the gauge?? Any thoughts on why this would happen with out the engine being overheated. If it matters only running 8lbs of boost nothing crazy, stock motor, A/C was on.


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post #2 of 27 Old 05-01-2019, 10:24 PM
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Just wondering. Is the cooling system holding pressure? What have you done to rule out a pressure cap not holding pressure?

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post #3 of 27 Old 05-02-2019, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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Yes there was a lot of pressure in it, hoses was very hard.

1986 GT 5spd, Vortech S-trim, 3:55, BBK longtubes and H-pipe, Subframe connectors, Mac mufflers, Accel Coil, Custom paint, Hurst short throw, Rebuilt bottom end, GT40 irons, TFS1, Cobra upper and lower, 42's, LMAF, SCT chip tuned by SGS Automotive, AEM Meth and widband, UPR Powerpipe 26000 miles.
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post #4 of 27 Old 05-02-2019, 08:20 AM
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Possible bad thermostat?
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post #5 of 27 Old 05-02-2019, 08:39 AM
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Have you changed your coolant recently? May just need to be burped. In the worse case scenario, the coolant bubbling could mean a blown head gasket. Are you seeing any white smoke?
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post #6 of 27 Old 05-02-2019, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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I haven't owned the car very long I have only put about 60 miles on it over about 5 runs, the previous owner installed the rad when I bought it. He replaced the nice Mishimoto rad that had a small leak with a crappy one, see pic. I also attach a pic of my cooling fan setup, the run all the time with the key on set with a relay. I don't think the head gaskets are leaking no coolant mix either way, no misfire either. I got a chance to start it up today in the drive way and warm it up, it was cooler today and I did not get a chance to drive it very far but no overheat or coolant coming out of the reservoir. It does take a very long time to get up to operating temp, maybe t-stat stuck open. Think I should get a better rad also? What temp T-stat should I be running? Maybe the ambient temp + A/C + Intercooler + a little spirited driving = small rad couldn't dissipate heat enough??? Any thoughts.
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1986 GT 5spd, Vortech S-trim, 3:55, BBK longtubes and H-pipe, Subframe connectors, Mac mufflers, Accel Coil, Custom paint, Hurst short throw, Rebuilt bottom end, GT40 irons, TFS1, Cobra upper and lower, 42's, LMAF, SCT chip tuned by SGS Automotive, AEM Meth and widband, UPR Powerpipe 26000 miles.
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post #7 of 27 Old 05-05-2019, 11:18 PM
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Run water wetter ?
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post #8 of 27 Old 05-05-2019, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 eyed mustang View Post
I haven't owned the car very long I have only put about 60 miles on it over about 5 runs, the previous owner installed the rad when I bought it. He replaced the nice Mishimoto rad that had a small leak with a crappy one, see pic. I also attach a pic of my cooling fan setup, the run all the time with the key on set with a relay. I don't think the head gaskets are leaking no coolant mix either way, no misfire either. I got a chance to start it up today in the drive way and warm it up, it was cooler today and I did not get a chance to drive it very far but no overheat or coolant coming out of the reservoir. It does take a very long time to get up to operating temp, maybe t-stat stuck open. Think I should get a better rad also? What temp T-stat should I be running? Maybe the ambient temp + A/C + Intercooler + a little spirited driving = small rad couldn't dissipate heat enough??? Any thoughts.
putting a thicker rad in will make it worse

those fans are what?

do they move any air?

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post #9 of 27 Old 05-06-2019, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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Not sure what brand the fans are, they do move a fair amount of air. Would changing my fan setup be better than switch to a thicker radiator. Indy how does switching to a thicker radiator hurt my cooling situation? Any fan recommendations also would be great. I haven't had any time to work on it lately to address this issue but I am off next week a few days and want to gather some parts this week to try to fix it.

1986 GT 5spd, Vortech S-trim, 3:55, BBK longtubes and H-pipe, Subframe connectors, Mac mufflers, Accel Coil, Custom paint, Hurst short throw, Rebuilt bottom end, GT40 irons, TFS1, Cobra upper and lower, 42's, LMAF, SCT chip tuned by SGS Automotive, AEM Meth and widband, UPR Powerpipe 26000 miles.
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post #10 of 27 Old 05-06-2019, 07:47 PM
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mark VIII fan

thicker rad is bigger restriction to airflow

airflow across the rad is what you are looking for, especially if you are running heat xchangers in front of it.


89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #11 of 27 Old 05-07-2019, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Is the Lincoln fan that much better than the stock fan, and is it direct plug into the car? I found one on ebay for 120 from a 93-96 is this the correct year you were talking about?

1986 GT 5spd, Vortech S-trim, 3:55, BBK longtubes and H-pipe, Subframe connectors, Mac mufflers, Accel Coil, Custom paint, Hurst short throw, Rebuilt bottom end, GT40 irons, TFS1, Cobra upper and lower, 42's, LMAF, SCT chip tuned by SGS Automotive, AEM Meth and widband, UPR Powerpipe 26000 miles.
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post #12 of 27 Old 05-07-2019, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 eyed mustang View Post
Is the Lincoln fan that much better than the stock fan, and is it direct plug into the car? I found one on ebay for 120 from a 93-96 is this the correct year you were talking about?
I can tell you that Dual Ford Contour fans out of v6 Contour can suck a small child through the radiator. They also run $90 brand new from RockAuto. Best fans I’ve used by far. They also fit a foxbody radiator like OEM. Word is the Lincoln fans are just as great.

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post #13 of 27 Old 05-07-2019, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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What year are the Contour fans out of?

1986 GT 5spd, Vortech S-trim, 3:55, BBK longtubes and H-pipe, Subframe connectors, Mac mufflers, Accel Coil, Custom paint, Hurst short throw, Rebuilt bottom end, GT40 irons, TFS1, Cobra upper and lower, 42's, LMAF, SCT chip tuned by SGS Automotive, AEM Meth and widband, UPR Powerpipe 26000 miles.
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post #14 of 27 Old 05-07-2019, 06:58 PM
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I know a 99 had them. I think as long as it’s a v6 it’s all the same fan. I’m not trying to steer you away from the Lincoln fans, they work great too. Just throwing out another option.

Stock block 306, V1 T-trim, AFM B-451 cam, TFS Twisted Wedge, Holley Systemax, A1000, Snow Meth, TKO 600, Team Z, Strange, MM, Lakewood and Moser helps me go forward fast.
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post #15 of 27 Old 05-09-2019, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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I decided to go with the dual Contour fans due to the size and thickness. I now need to find a controller or a way to wire them into my car. The plug was cut off my harness. Any help with proper way to connect them with proper a/c fan opperation? Do I need to buy a fan cotroller?

1986 GT 5spd, Vortech S-trim, 3:55, BBK longtubes and H-pipe, Subframe connectors, Mac mufflers, Accel Coil, Custom paint, Hurst short throw, Rebuilt bottom end, GT40 irons, TFS1, Cobra upper and lower, 42's, LMAF, SCT chip tuned by SGS Automotive, AEM Meth and widband, UPR Powerpipe 26000 miles.
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post #16 of 27 Old 05-10-2019, 03:43 PM
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For the Ford factory fan the RD/OG wire is the low speed fan. The OG/LB is the high speed fan. Black is ground.

For the Mustang GT the LOW SPEED fan runs all the time when the AC is on (yes this is correct. Low speed fan). The factory fan control will switch to high speed fan when the AC head pressure is above a certain limit. Same thing when the motor's temperature is above a certain set point. Further the factory fan control turns off the fans when the car's speed is above 45 MPH.

It seems to me that anyone that wires a fan to run all the time via a relay in a street driven car is because they couldn't figure out the factory fan control.

There are two ways to handle this. First is to use a ballast resister in series with the low speed fan circuit to slow the fans down.

The 2nd way is more complicated. Wire one fan directly to the low speed fan circuit. Then wire the 2nd fan to the high speed circuit. Now comes the real work. A relay will be needed to supply power to the low speed fan when the high speed fan is on. Use power from the high speed fan to latch the relay coil. Use the relay to switch power from the high speed fan circuit over to the 2nd fan.

The relay is necessary to prevent back feeding the high speed fan while the low speed fan is running.

It's also possible to use a Diode instead of a relay. However it will be necessary to size the diode(s) correctly for amp draw a reverse bias. Can also put multiple diodes together to get to the necessary amp load.
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post #17 of 27 Old 05-10-2019, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Should I be concerned with 12v back feeding on the low speed circuit of the to the CCRM when the high speed is running? I understand the rest of what you are describing fine.

1986 GT 5spd, Vortech S-trim, 3:55, BBK longtubes and H-pipe, Subframe connectors, Mac mufflers, Accel Coil, Custom paint, Hurst short throw, Rebuilt bottom end, GT40 irons, TFS1, Cobra upper and lower, 42's, LMAF, SCT chip tuned by SGS Automotive, AEM Meth and widband, UPR Powerpipe 26000 miles.
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post #18 of 27 Old 05-10-2019, 06:54 PM
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If you haven't had the car very long, chances are the previous owner went crazy (like I did) trying to track down a coolant loss. No coolant in the oil, no white smoke out the exhaust, and now leaking coolant on the ground... so why did I get the "low coolant" light every few weeks? I just kept overfilling the reservoir till I figured out that the coolant level sensor was covered with crud. I bought a new one and never saw the light again.
Meanwhile, a reservoir that is overfilled will occassionally boil over when you turn off the car. The point of a reservoir is to hold the coolant pushed out by the heat, and if the reservoir is overfilled to begin with, well, there you are.

If none of the serious causes of an overflow are present, check the coolant sensor.

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post #19 of 27 Old 05-10-2019, 09:20 PM
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Should I be concerned with 12v back feeding on the low speed circuit of the to the CCRM when the high speed is running? I understand the rest of what you are describing fine.
If you don't put in some method to prevent back feeding then both fans will run on low speed. In effect there's no real difference in fan output between low and high speed. BUT when the low speed is called for then the full load is carried by the low speed circuit breaker.
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post #20 of 27 Old 05-12-2019, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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I was checking my wiring coming for proper voltages with the car running. The low speed wire has no voltage on it at any time, a/c on or with the temp sensor disconnected. The high speed wire has battery voltage at all times with the car running with or without a/c on, with or without temp sensor connected. Does this sound like a failed CCRM?

1986 GT 5spd, Vortech S-trim, 3:55, BBK longtubes and H-pipe, Subframe connectors, Mac mufflers, Accel Coil, Custom paint, Hurst short throw, Rebuilt bottom end, GT40 irons, TFS1, Cobra upper and lower, 42's, LMAF, SCT chip tuned by SGS Automotive, AEM Meth and widband, UPR Powerpipe 26000 miles.
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post #21 of 27 Old 05-12-2019, 11:40 AM
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are you looking at a wiring diagram?

follow the flow of power

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #22 of 27 Old 05-12-2019, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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From what I have read the ecu will tell the CCRM when to turn on the high relay or low relay in according to demand, A/C on = power on low speed wire. High temp and A/C pressure will turn on the high speed relay. I do not have diagram I am working off of info I have found on here and other forums. I am not sure if they CCRM isn't working properly or if the ecu is not sending the proper signals.

1986 GT 5spd, Vortech S-trim, 3:55, BBK longtubes and H-pipe, Subframe connectors, Mac mufflers, Accel Coil, Custom paint, Hurst short throw, Rebuilt bottom end, GT40 irons, TFS1, Cobra upper and lower, 42's, LMAF, SCT chip tuned by SGS Automotive, AEM Meth and widband, UPR Powerpipe 26000 miles.
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post #23 of 27 Old 05-12-2019, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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I found this to work with, does this look correct for the 2003 GT? It looks like I need to check pins 14 and 17 to see what the ECU is holding on the high speed relay all the time, and not switching over to the low speed.
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1986 GT 5spd, Vortech S-trim, 3:55, BBK longtubes and H-pipe, Subframe connectors, Mac mufflers, Accel Coil, Custom paint, Hurst short throw, Rebuilt bottom end, GT40 irons, TFS1, Cobra upper and lower, 42's, LMAF, SCT chip tuned by SGS Automotive, AEM Meth and widband, UPR Powerpipe 26000 miles.
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post #24 of 27 Old 05-12-2019, 04:28 PM
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I have no idea if this a correct wiring diagram

you should ensure it is correct, lets assume it is

yes, pin 14 and 17 on ccrm is ground side switch control for low and high respectively

If you probe the pcm side of that connector with a test light to batt POS, if the light comes on, then a ground is being supplied by the pcm

remember the LOW speed is TURNED OFF when the pcm supplies a ground

it is reversed as a fail safe

so if you have a ground on both pins, the PCM is commanding LOW=off and HIGH=ON

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post #25 of 27 Old 05-12-2019, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Indy, I am going to try to verify proper diagram first.

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post #26 of 27 Old 05-12-2019, 04:43 PM
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bbb industries

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post #27 of 27 Old 05-27-2019, 01:36 PM
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Do you have an ODB2 scanner? Even better a one with bi-directional capabilities? Here's a case where bi-directional support might make very short work of this problem. Simply "command" the PCM to turn on the low-speed and and then test the low speed wire for power.

Then "command" the PCM to turn on the high speed fan and test the high speed wire for power.

With a simple ODB2 scanner you can monitor the fan speed PID and know for certain what fan speed the PCM is calling for.

Armed with this information one can make a determination IF the CCRM is working as designed.

Here's some information on an affordable Windows based unit.

ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...elm327-usb.57/

OBTW, for the Mustang GT there is a separate circuit breaker located on the right hand fender well that protects the low speed fan. In the previously attached diagram F1.31 is a circuit breaker (the squared off symbol). A bad CB in that location might cause the low speed fan to never work. I would also test to see if the CB is closed and would allow power through it. While there perform a visual inspection looking for heat and/or water damage.

+1 on trouble shooting the low speed fan CCRM circuit. The PCM logic is reversed because it's a "fail safe" design. But regardless. Think of how useful for trouble shooting it would be to "know" what the PCM is calling for. Then be able to match that to the signals seen at the CCRM.
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