Just bought Bullitt FI ~ What else do I need? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 74 Old 09-26-2016, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Just bought Bullitt FI ~ What else do I need?

For my sonís 2001 Mustang GT. 4.6L with 4R70W and 2500 stall converter, 3.27 gear but 4.10ís will follow soon. Heater hose stub broke the other day. Did research and decided a Bullitt intake and all related parts would serve the Mustang well. Found complete part out on 2001 74,000 mile Bullitt with rod knock. The Bullitt had just passed California emissions test so I assume the FI parts all work as designed. Included with the sale are the following:
BULLITT INTAKE
DUAL 65MM THROTTLE BODY
AIR FILTER BOX
AIR FILTER HOSE w/branch off hoses to valve cover and icu
MASS AIR METER
FUEL RAILS
FUEL INJECTORS
THROTTLE CABLE
THROTTLE CABLE ENGINE BRACKET
ALTERNATOR...uses the 99-O4 COBRA/MACH 1 STYLE ALTERNATOR
ALTERNATOR TOP MOUNTING BRACKET
ALL INTAKE SENSORS,ICU,EGR ETC

I realize the Bullitt has dual 57mm throttle body. I also got him to throw in the Bullit specific cruise control cable. My son and I will detail the intake manifold and all parts before install. Will powder coat the intake in ďBrite SilverĒ with the fins in red. My question is, what else will we need? This includes the alternator. Will all the other pulleyís (water pump, power steering, A/C, idler) work with the GT belt?
The GT ECU will work?
Any help / advice appreciated!

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post #2 of 74 Old 09-27-2016, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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I just found out the valve covers are different; Bullitt requires drivers side oil fill.

Nobody has any help???

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post #3 of 74 Old 09-27-2016, 02:28 PM
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The pullies, alt bracket, and ECU will be fine. You'll need to find bullitt cam covers or find covers from an older 4.6 mustang.

Mods:
flat top pistons, ported stock heads, Comp 262ah cams, Manley rods
Best ET: [email protected]
Dyno #'s:325hp/330tq
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post #4 of 74 Old 09-27-2016, 09:58 PM
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Let us know if you gained any power. I think a Kenne Bell would look better than the Bullitt.

2016 Mustang Gt with performance package
2001 Mustang Bullitt with Maximum Motorsports Road and Track kit.
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post #5 of 74 Old 09-28-2016, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxbullitt View Post
Let us know if you gained any power. I think a Kenne Bell would look better than the Bullitt.
Your Kenne-Bell donation will be gladly accepted!
Heck, if I have to, Iíll trade straight up!

We were ready to take it to the drag strip to baseline it with the new 2500 stall converter I bought here on the Corral when the plastic intake broke at the heater hose. So unfortunately, wonít get a baseline time. I did find some back-to-back chassis dyno tests with plastic intake to Bullitt and itís good for 15+ RWHP. All other forum posts are just repeating the factory 5 HP gain over the GT. Iíve been racing a long time and the OEM does not build such a change into a car for 5 HP. Usually a low HP is given for fitment into a particular class in racing. At the very least, itís a better foundation for a SC, turbo or NOS. I imagine it will be a turbo before itís all over...
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post #6 of 74 Old 09-29-2016, 12:36 PM
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Garage
Just going to paste this from another site. The below is NOT my own. There are a lot of pieces that you end up needing for the build. For instance, the Bullitt and GT have different heater hose pipes [I now know this since I just finished installing my trickflow intake, however, that part is no longer made (like most bullitt parts) and it was around $150 from where I could find it. I stayed with the rubber hose from the kit].




Summary:

The Bullitt Intake install can be done by anyone with moderate mechanical skills in 5-7 hours. If all the Bullitt specific parts are bought then install is straight forward and can be done in your driveway. There are some work arounds for some of the parts that can be adapted to from a GT. Basic tools will be needed such as ľ and 3/8 drive metric sockets with an assortment of universal joints and extensions. See tool list below for specifics. To keep things simple all steps are listed as bullet points below in the approximate order that I did my install in.

A few things to remember prior to beginning is remember to pick up coolant to refill system after install. While swapping intakes itís a good time to change spark plugs since with the new intake you will have limited access to the number two and three cylinder spark plugs. A can of brake cleaner and rags will come in handy as well for cleaning and preparing surfaces for sealing with gaskets. If youíre a beginner at working on motors I would also suggest using masking tape to label vacuum lines and some of the odd plugs to make the install easier.

Details:

Disconnect battery.
Remove breather hose from inlet tube to upper intake manifold.
Remove solid breather line from inlet tube to driver side valve cover.
Remove intake hose/MAF/air filter and housing by disconnecting the inlet tube from the throttle body and disconnecting both the IAT and MAF connector plugs.
Disconnect fuel rail and cap off lines or use rags if possible to keep fuel from spilling.
Drain radiator into drain pan by loosing plastic hex fitting at bottom left (passenger) side of radiator.
Loosen four water pump pulley bolts (10mm).
Remove belt by relieving tension on belt with 3/8 socket wrench.
Remove water pump pulley bolts and pulley. This will give better access to the bottom alternator bolts.
Remove alternator.
Disconnect plug on top of alternator.
Unbolt power wire at the back of alternator. 12mm nut.
Remove two 10mm bolts from the bottom and four 8mm bolts from the bracket on the top.
Remove alternator and bracket.
Remove upper radiator hose by compression factory hose clamps with vise grips.
Disconnect injector and coil plugs.
Pull coils off the motor and label each by cylinder number. Easy way is to get a piece of paper or cardboard and write the cylinder number on it.
Disconnect the two ground plugs on the two front intake bolts.
Unbolt two ground plugs from front of intake (both sides) held down with 10mm nuts.
Remove ground wire from end of fuel rail (driver side) by pulling up on it.
Disconnect plug and vacuum line from fuel rail voltage sensor (driver side).
Disconnect TPS sensor plug.
Disconnect IAC sensor plug.
Remove hose from PCV valve to intake but leave PCV in to prevent anything from falling into the valve cover.
Disconnect temperature sensor plug.
Remove two vacuum lines and disconnect plug from sensor (driver side).
Remove two vacuum lines and disconnect plug from other sensor on same bracket (driver side).
Disconnect cruise control cable from throttle body by pulling on the cable it just snaps in place.
Remove throttle cable from throttle body by pulling up loose slack in cable, then pulling throttle into to WOT position so as to pull spherical end of cable off from the throttle body.
Disconnect spring from throttle body to throttle cable bracket.
Unbolt the cruise and throttle cable bracket from intake (2 10mm bolts) and put to the side.
Unbolt EGR valve (2 10mm bolts) from upper intake and remove vacuum line.
Remove water hose from firewall to intake by using vise grips on the factory clamps.
Unbolt intake (8 10mm bolts, 3 13mm bolts) and remove by gently pulling up on intake. Make sure nothing is left attached to intake and if any resistance is felt check for missed bolts. Intake should come off fairly easily.
Remove throttle body (4 8mm bolts) from upper intake.
Clean intake ports and around intake gasket area with brake cleaner and rags.
Tape over intake holes or cover with towel to prevent anything from falling into cylinders until the new intake is ready to be dropped in.
Remove four 8mm bolts from intake holding on fuel rail.
Remove fuel rail and injectors by gently pulling up on the rail first from one side and be careful with each injector. Make sure not to damage the injectors or lose either of the O-rings (one top one bottom).
Clean injectors if needed then reseat into new intake. A slight dab of oil on the O-rings will help in re-installing them back on the rails and into the intake.
Install Bullitt specific fuel rails on new intake and bolt down with four 8mm bolts.
Remove temperature sensor from GT intake and install on Bullitt Intake using adjustable wrench. Make sure to use RTV sealer or Teflon tape on sensor before re-installing.
Use plug for other hole next to temperature sensor. Should have come from ford with intake.
Remove 13mm bolt from back of motor holding down bracket for water line going from water pump to firewall. This one is a pain to get to and youíll need an open-ended wrench to loosen it. After loosening I was able to back it out by hand.
Either install new Bullitt water pump tubing from back of water pump to factory hose or modify to fit under new intake. I cut off both curved ends of the pipe only keeping a twelve inch straight section and used High heat heater hose to connect the pipe to the water pump and the factory hose to the other end of the pipe. It was enough to clear the Bullitt intake.
If removing the EGR valve from intake then cut EGR tube just behind motor and cap off with high heat rubber hose cap and worm clamp. If retaining EGR valve then disregard step.
Clean surface of intake ports, remove tape from heads covering port and clean as well with brake cleaner.
Place new intake gaskets on heads and make sure alignment tabs are in the correct place.
Place new intake on motor being careful not to nick the surface or move the intake gasket. Wiring behind intake may be a little tight just pull back a little to make room.
Start all intake bolts into intake before snugging any of them. Do not force any of these bolts, you are threading into aluminum and it is very easy to strip them.
With intake sitting in place but not tightened down install new alternator and new bracket. Start the two 10mm bolts at the bottom and set alternator in place on top. Then place the new top bracket in place and start the four 8mm bolts on top. Tighten the bottom bolts first then ones on top. Just a footnote but the stock Cobra alternator pump pulley is the same as the Steeda aftermarket pulley.
Reconnect power wire with 10mm nut and connect alternator to factory plug using PA adapter.
Install water pump pulley with 10mm bolts.
Reinstall belt back on.
Install thermostat housing for Bullitt intake or using a grinder notch it to fit around alternator bolt on the left hand side. Either will work fine.
Hand tighten intake bolts then follow proper sequence (see Chiltonís or Haynes manual) to tighten down intake. I used 15 ft lbs then again at 20 ft lbs.
Reinstall ground plugs to front of intake bolts with 10mm nuts. There should be one for each side.
Reinstall stock radiator hose but use worm hose clamp instead of the factory clamps for more clearance around alternator.
Change spark plugs (optional but a good time to do it).
Reinstall coils back in the order in which they came and tighten down with 7 mm bolts.
Reconnect fuel rail connection by snapping it onto the new rail.
Connect fuel injector and coil plugs.
Connect plugs for ground plugs in front of intake.
Place the upper to lower intake gasket in place and using the four 8mm bolts from the stock upper intake bolt on the upper intake.
Install ďL bracket from upper to lower intake.
Bolt the Bullitt or Cobra dual 57mm throttle body in place with new gasket and four 8mm bolts. Note: Both throttle bodies will work but the outside diameter of the Bullitt TB has a larger outside diameter than the Cobra so power pipe kits will not work with the Bullitt TB.
Remove two 8mm screws from firewall securing throttle cable.
Disconnect throttle cable from inside the car.
Connect new throttle cable from inside the car.
Bolt down throttle cable to firewall using the stock 8mm screws.
Bolt down throttle and cruise control cable bracket to upper plenum with two 8mm bolts.
Install throttle cable into bracket and attach to throttle body.
Install spring from throttle body to throttle cable bracket.
Reinstall IAC to upper intake.
Install EGR block off plate (or install EGR valve for Bullitt intake or modify stock EGR to fit new intake).
Connect temperature sensor plug.
Connect TPS plug.
Connect plug to IAC.
Connect plug and vacuum line to fuel rail voltage sensor.
Reconnect vacuum line to left side of upper intake.
Install intake tube to MAF and air filter retaining your stock GT parts or aftermarket meter and filter (or use a pre made or custom made power pipe instead this will give enough clearance for the oil fill neck).
Reconnect MAF plug.
Reconnect IAT plug.
Close drain plug at passenger side bottom of radiator and refill coolant in radiator.
Reconnect two small red vacuum lines and plug to front EGR sensor on bracket.
Reconnect two regular vacuum lines and plug to the rear EGR sensor on same bracket. Since this bracket does not go back on you will need either the Bullitt specific part of have a bracket made for it to fit.
If you are not using the EGR make sure you plug the EGR vacuum line that used to attach to the valve.
Install new PCV tube to upper intake or using new 3/8 tubing connect PCV valve to the vacuum line port on the right side of the intake.
Install new breather tube and filter box (square box on upper intake) from upper intake to inlet tube. Or you can extend the 5/8 hose on the left side of the box to fit new intake tube.
Install new tube connecting inlet tube to driver side valve cover or using stock plastic tube extend it with 5/8 hose.
Connect 3/8 vacuum line (two separate red hard vacuum lines going into one fitting) to center port of upper intake. The two ľ fittings can be connected together with a single piece of tubing.
Swap out old and new cruise control cable.
Bullitt Intake Parts List
Description Part Number Quantity
Intake Manifold (Main) 2R3Z-9424-AA 1
Intake Manifold (Upper) 2R3Z-9A589-BA 1
Throttle Cable 1R3Z-9A758-BA 1
Throttle Control Bracket 1R3Z-9728-BA 1
T/B Gasket F7LZ-9E936-AA 1
Cruise Control Cable 1R3Z-9A825-DA 1
Alternator Bracket 2R3Z-10153-AA 1
Alternator(+core charge) YR3Z-10346-AARM 1
Fuel Rails** 2R3Z-9F792-BA 1
Intake Gasket YL3Z-9439-BA 2
"L" Bracket 2R3Z-9J444-AA 1
Throttle Body (stock Cobra) NA 1
6G to 4G Plug* PA5013239256 1
Intake Gasket Material NA 1
Bullitt Intake Parts List Complete
Description Part Number Quantity
Intake Manifold (Main) 2R3Z-9424-AA 1
Intake Manifold (Upper) 2R3Z-9A589-BA 1
Throttle Body 2R3Z-9E926-AB 1
Throttle Cable 1R3Z-9A758-BA 1
Throttle Control Bracket 1R3Z-9728-BA 1
T/B Gasket F7LZ-9E936-AA 1
Air Inlet Tube 1R3Z-9B659-CA 1
Cruise Control Cable 1R3Z-9A825-DA 1
Alternator Bracket 2R3Z-10153-AA 1
Alternator YR3Z-10346-AARM 1
Fuel Rails** (This part number is for 99-up GTs, 96-97 GTs can reuse their stock rails, 98 GTs have to purchase 96-97 rails. )
2R3Z-9F792-BA 1
Spacer Gasket 2R3Z-9E930-AA 1
"L" Bracket 2R3Z-9J444-AA 1
EGR Tube 1R3Z-9D477-CA 1
T-Stat Housing 1W7Z-8592-AA 1
Upper Radiator Hose 1R3Z-8260-DA 1
Crankcase Vent Tube 1R3Z-6C324-AA 1
IAC Valve Inlet Tube 2R3Z-9H308-BA 1
Intake Gasket YL3Z-9439-BA 2
Under Intake Hose 2R3Z-18663-CA 1
Jumper for rear cross over 1R3Z-18472-DA 1
6G to 4G Plug (Bought from www.paperformance.com ) PA5013239256 1
Once complete recheck everything to make sure nothing was forgotten. Remove all tools from motor check coolant level. When ready I primed fuel pump (turn key forward but not on) till it filled fuel line then started. Listen for any out of the ordinary noises or vacuum leaks. Car may hesitate for a few second after start up while fuel line fills up. Let car run with radiator cap off till it reaches operating temperature to make sure cooling system gets filled properly.

Work Arounds:

Here are the some of the things I did to save cash on the intake install.

*Thermostat Housing-Instead of using the bullitt specific thermostat housing I retained the stock one and just modified it to fit. The only real issue is the clearance between the alternator and the corner of the housing. Using a die grinder I cut a notch into it for clearnance (see thumbnail). By doing this you can also retain the stock radiator hose from the GT by using a standard worm clamp instead of the factory clamps.

*EGR-for a week prior to the swap I removed the vacuum line from the valve to see if it would affect performanceÖit did not. So during the intake swap I cut the EGR tube about half way down and had a friend make a block off plate for the intake and capped off the remaining EGR tube down to the exhaust pipe. If the car has any problems performance wise Iíll have the EGR turned off when I get a chip for it.

*Hose under intake-I unbolted it from the back of the block then cut off the bent portions of the pipe leaving only a 12 inch straight pipe. Using high heat heater hose I connected to the back of the water pump to the pipe then the other end of the pipe to the stock hose. This allowed enough room for the intake to seat on the heads and not hit anything.

*Valve covers/intake tubing-instead of replacing the valve covers and using the stock restrictive Bullitt intake tubing I bought a 4 rubber hose fitting and bought a 3 U bend exhaust pipe from a local exhaust shop. Using the U bend and cutting it so it had a 45* bend in it and inserting two pipe fittings in it for the breather tubes I was able to use this attached to the throttle body to give enough clearance around the oil fill neck. Unfortunately the K&N filter with the C&L kit is too long so I had to put my stock meter with UPR big mouth filter back on. I plan on ordering a shorter filter for the C&L and reinstall later.

*Throttle body-The stock cobra throttle body is the same size as the bullitt throttle body except for the outside diameter is larger on the bullitt. I was able to find a used Cobra throttle body for $40. I should be able to use a Cobra power pipe with this throttle body where as a Bullitt TB would not fit.
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post #7 of 74 Old 10-02-2016, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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PERFECT! And thank you for your helpful response. Waiting for the new parts to arrive any day now.
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post #8 of 74 Old 10-06-2016, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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All parts arrived today and I canít see that one item is missing. He even threw in a Bullitt cruise control cable and correct valve covers. Could be a bargain for $650 total?
Son and I are going to detail everything, including powder coating. He wants the cast aluminum parts and the valve covers in a titanium shade with red ribs.
JLT CAI hydrodipped in carbon fiber.
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post #9 of 74 Old 10-31-2016, 01:01 AM
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the egr tube is different and I don't think you can buy from ford now ,the vacuum hoses are different, the coolant line under the intake is different also. if you cant get that, the crown vic tube looks very similar.. I didn't read to see if it was in an earlier post.. after powder coating make sure there is no residue inside the intake or it will ruin you shortblock.. ive also played around with bigger throttle bodies and it seems there isn't much to be gained there but I do like the looks of my accufab .. you can do a quick fix on your stock plastic intake with a brass 3/4 inch fitting from lowes.. ran one on mine for a year without issue..

93 LX coupe 393 efi, on moth balls.
03 GT 2V [email protected] ..
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post #10 of 74 Old 10-31-2016, 01:42 PM
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It's just disheartening when Ford adds the Ford Racing Parts aluminum intake, underdrive pulleys, a freer-flowing exhaust (20 percent better than the standard GT) and a bigger throttle body (twin 57mm vs. 65) and comes up with five horsepower. It seems even worse when you realize that this year's 2-valve 4.6 has nearly a half-point more compression than the 2000, 9.4:1 vs. 9.0:1.

On the DynoJet at Crazy Horse Racing in Clark, N.J., the Bullitt spun the rollers to 236.8 horsepower and 279.8 lbs.-ft. of torque. The torque curve is plenty flat and you can feel the power on the street. But compare the Bullitt's dyno sheet to that of a regular 2001 GT tested at Crazy Horse (also shown). That one was stock except for an aftermarket cat-back exhaust system. The GT made more power and torque. Ugh MUSCLE MUSTANGS &FAST FORDS

So $650.00 for this, what am I missing here?

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post #11 of 74 Old 11-01-2016, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
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I would like to see a direct comparison dyno between a stock í01 Bullitt and a stock í01 GT. I have not been able to find one. I did, after considerable search, find two guys that replaced their GT intake with Bullitt intake. One picked up approximately 15 RWHP and it was relatively stock. The other picked up 35+ HP but it was supercharged along with other mods. I believe it went from 10.50ís in the 1/4 to 10.30ís. That is significant and probably shows the limitations of the GT intake more than anything else. As with most forum reports on both examples, you never know if your getting the whole story so you have to take everything with a grain of salt.

Being new here and an old school muscle car head and drag racing since the í70ís (gulp!), hereís what I do know.
1) Ford or any other manufacturer isnít going to put a part(s) like a Bullitt intake system through engineering, foundry, and assembly line install for 5 HP. Never going to happen. Put your bean counter hat on and analyze it from that perspective.
2) OEMís have been playing HP wars for decades. I could talk all night about that but it usually involve one of three issues; 1) insurance rate issues, corporate edict defining maximum HP to weight issues (Pontiac Firebird and GTO of the 1960ís famously installed a 400 in the Firebird and rated it at 325 HP. Same engine in a GTO was 350 HP. No other changes but GM had a corporate edict stating no car could carry more than 1 HP per 10# of weight.
Firebird = 3250 # shipping weight, GTO 3500# shipping weight. Numbers are approximate but you get the picture. Pontiac RamAirIII and RAIV were only 4 HP apart as advertised but more like 40 HP apart on a dyno. The 4 HP was due to the corporate edict on HP to weight. So Pontiac picked a HP # that fit their need from the dyno sheet.
3) Corporate strategy for participation in sanctioned racing events where lower HP figures offered a favorable advantage to a particular class; particularly NHRA Stock & Super Stock Eliminator. Ever drive a 440 4-barrel ĎCuda rated at 375 HP and a í70 ĎCuda with everything equal but a 6-pack (3 2-barrels) induction system? Call it the Bullit of 1970. They were identical short blocks as far as the performance specifications and a +15 HP 390 HP. So if you havenít driven both the 4-bbl and 6-bbl, I will tell you there is a significant difference. Probably .75 quicker in the 1/4.

So why did Ford do all this and spend so much on the Bullitt for ďonlyĒ 5 HP? I have no clue! I would sure like to talk to somebody from Ford induction engineering team!
My decision on using the Bullitt induction system was 1) I believe +15 HP seems like a reasonable expectation. 2) I believe if the Mustang receives ported heads, supercharger, turbo charger or NOS, the benefits over the GT plastic intake will be quickly realized. I tend to plan ahead. 3) if ďaheadĒ never happens, the Bullitt sure looks good!
My background is NHRA Stock and Super Stock. Those that are deep into these classes tend to not leave any HP on the table. Thatís our nature. A new GT intake was $279.00. I bought a complete change over for $650.00. Basically I said ďfor $371 more, I could have a Bullitt instead of a plastic intake that may break again one day. There were extra costs also. Although the kit included the Bullitt air-intake system, I bought a JLT CAI for $289.00. Shipping on the two boxes of Bullitt parts was $95.00. I could have cleaned some of the old Bullitt parts (this was a 72,000 mile Bullitt) like hoses, I bought new if it was available. Powder coating was $80 as a ďbuddy dealĒ. Even though I got the Bullitt alternator, I upgraded to a 200 amp PA Performance alternator and associated wiring as he has some killer stereo and head unit in the Mustang. I think all that was $485 or so. Not my thing but I get it. And while weíre under the hood, seemed like a great time to put on a Steeda under-drive set up for $239 + $30 for an ARP harmonic balancer bolt & washer.
We already put a 2500 Stall convertor and a 57,000 mile 4R70W in the car (it has 165,000 miles). That really woke it up. Unfortunately it only had less than 100 miles on it when the intake broke so we could not baseline the car at the drags. My son is working at cleaning up a friends machine shop next weekend after swimming in the state finals towards a Ford 4.10 Ring and pinion he has.



Great father /son project! Heís wrapping up HS swim season next week and he made it to state finals. After that, itís time to learn how to work on a mod-motor Ford. First time for both of us!

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post #12 of 74 Old 11-13-2016, 02:30 PM
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That intake looks great!

Do you remember who the seller was on eBay? I ask because there's an intake set up on there now with the EXACT same item description as the one you purchased. I mean EXACT. Down to adding in the CC cables and valve covers. Seems a little sketchy to me now that I saw your thread. I was about to buy it, but now I'm not so sure.

02 GT. Full bolt ons. Slow.
03 Ram 2500 QC 4x4 Hemi. Bolt ons/tune, 35's. Slow.
14 Honda CR-V. The wifes ride. Faster than the GT.
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post #13 of 74 Old 11-13-2016, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Ours was eBay item #282167949068 from San Jose, CA. Different seller and different pictures as the intake was still on the Bullitt when it was photographed.
I see the one you are looking at is the basic parts but missing is the TB, air intact, alternator at the very least. We are putting on a JLT CAI and a new PA Performance 200 amp alternator so may have these good factory parts available for a reasonable amount of money. I have also bought as much NOS hoses and fittings as I could just for the sake of new. We will keep every piece thatís left over (all the take-offís look very good).
ven if incomplete, the $599 price seems reasonable as when I was looking the average price for the intake only was around $500. Make him an offer!

My son just helped a racer clean his shop today for 4 hours. His pay? A PERFECT set of used FOMOCO 4.10 gears with bearings and a ďPerfect LaunchĒ cast aluminum 8.8 cover with pre-load bolts.

Have the engine down to only removing the valve covers and then putting it al back together again. Changing the water and assorted hoses looks like a daunting task but thanks to the info found here, we will prevail!
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post #14 of 74 Old 11-13-2016, 07:42 PM
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No - that's not the one I'm talking about.

This is: http://http://m.ebay.com/itm/MUSTANG...%257Ciid%253A1

Literally exact as your ad you bought from. Pictured on the car, San Jose, CA.

02 GT. Full bolt ons. Slow.
03 Ram 2500 QC 4x4 Hemi. Bolt ons/tune, 35's. Slow.
14 Honda CR-V. The wifes ride. Faster than the GT.
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post #15 of 74 Old 11-13-2016, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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Your link is not working but if it matches the pics in the ad I bought from but is a different seller...sounds like a scam!
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post #16 of 74 Old 11-13-2016, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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I bought from Karparts54 and I see he has another Bullitt setup for $750 Buy-it-Now. He is a shop and seems to know Bullitts. Maybe he has another for sale. His communications, even late at night by email, were excellent. I think he thought I did not understand SOHC from DOHC and drove it in hard that this was not a DOHC part. At least he was being fair & honest to me! In fact, just remembered, he didnít realize the valve covers were different or the CC cable. I advised him of this and he threw those in. Guess thatís why heís asking $100 more now. If you want a Bullitt system, I think this is reasonable.

Painted VCís today to match the intake.
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post #17 of 74 Old 11-15-2016, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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OK...looks like we are ready to install everything!
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post #18 of 74 Old 11-15-2016, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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Image: 2001 Mustang Bullitt Intake Custom



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post #19 of 74 Old 11-20-2016, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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Almost done...valve covers, intake, PA Performance 200 amp alternator, new water pump, Steeda UD pulleys & Balancer, NGK iridium plugs, Accel coils (was on the GT when we bought it), Fee-Pro gaskets for intake and valve covers, 20 trips to ACE Hardware...and now I see that the EGR tube is different but my ďkitĒ included the required Bullitt tube so now that has to go on (donít think I want to defeat EGR as we have extensive emission testing here in Arizona). That looks like a real fun deal. Hard to find info on the Ďnet as everybody just defeats EGR. Best advice I could find was remove left front tire and inner fender for access? Any other ideas?
Probably spent at least an hour removing the old and installing the correct water bypass tube under the intake! I replaced both o-rings on the nipple and never in my life with cars have I ever felt more raped than buying two o-rings for $38.00!!! Yes I know you can buy the nipple with o-rings for $15.00 on-line but I saw the nipple wasnít going to come off easily and I needed it now, not later.
Lastly...I noticed there are mis-matched injectors on the car. Iím looking at Accel p/n 150819 which are EV1 19# injectors that are $251.00 from Summit ($280 from American Muscle). Are these good injectors? Staying with 19# a good idea?
And to be clear...I can use the 2001 GT fuel rails on this Bullitt conversion? The rails that cam with the kit are somewhat rusted from the coast. The GT rails are in nice condition.
Thanks.
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post #20 of 74 Old 11-21-2016, 03:07 PM
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WOW! That setup is gorgeous, I did not know it looked that good, 100% nicer looking. Who cares about the HP LOL, I would be proud showing off my underhood with that setup!
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post #21 of 74 Old 11-21-2016, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Like they say...Ēif it donít go...chrome it!Ē
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post #22 of 74 Old 11-22-2016, 08:45 PM
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01 Bullitt owner here (1434 dhg). Here's a little Bullitt info. Ford sandbagged the hp rating due to the 99 Cobra fiasco. It's been proven stock hp is closer to 270-275. Mine had never been on a dyno but here's what I have. JLT cold air, Mac off road H, 3.73s, Bama mail order tune. Back when I had drag radials on the car I ran 8.60s in the 1/8. I got to run 1/4 twice, 13.73 leaving at idle, 13.50 shifting at 5300. If I had another run I could have been in the 13.30s, the better of the 2 trap speeds was 101.5 mph. I've always thought my car ran pretty good for what it was (a 2 valve). Either way that intake looks sweet, and I can't wait to see the results of this
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post #23 of 74 Old 11-24-2016, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
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Finally got the Bullitt EGR tube on. What a pain that was for my kid! I was working on it tonight and made the foolish decision to put new o-rings in the engine heater hoses to the heater core. Long story short, lost the nylon spacer that goes in-between 2 O-rings on the 5/8Ē side. I had just spent (gulp) $75 for the two kits at the dealer as the dime store auto parts places donít seem to carry these parts and Iím retaining the OEM heater hoses.
Iím going to look at Oíreilly in the morning and look at their fix-it parts....maybe the Dorman part has the nylon spacer I need?
Once I get heater hoses fixed we can install upper plenum and it should be downhill from there.

Thanks Bright Blue!

Dollarbill - Thatís the best explanation Iíve ever heard and makes perfect sense. I knew there was no way FOMOCO would engineer all that and only pick up 5 HP! Iím hoping this will go 13.70ís with the 2400 stall convertor and 4.10ís. He wants to participate in the HS Drags in late January. Has to keep the grades up!
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post #24 of 74 Old 11-25-2016, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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And on the last bolt.....disaster! Literally, ready to start the car except for the large gauge wiring harness from the alternator to the power distribution box. I attempted to take the nut off the stud for the power wire and the distribution box breaks. Nut didnít even come loose. Broken box I can handle; itís the panel behind the stud with the large spades that appear to be tweaked and no longer connected that I canít handle! Any ideas? Iím assuming I need to pull all fuses and relays and somehow get inside the box and re-align everything?
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post #25 of 74 Old 11-25-2016, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Started the car...all electrical seems to work so Iíll deal with that another day. Once started, ran like crap. felt like not all cylinders were hitting. Would fast idle, then die after a few minutes. Rev it and it would choke. Started / stopped about 5 times as it seemed to be getting progressively better. Finally, ECU decided it had everything tied together (or something), and it idled and revíed up as it should. Have a massive oil leak drivers side rear of engine. Canít trace it but it does not appear to be the valve cover. Oil on firewall dripping down to exhaust. Will look again tomorrow.
Took it for a drive. Other than the vapor trail, it ran as expected. As others with Bullitt have said, seems to be more mid-range and pulls harder at the higher RPMís. Really only got on it once. Need to get the oil issue fixed before itís drivable. Canít risk an EPA sanction!

Still a few loose ends but here it is:


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post #26 of 74 Old 11-26-2016, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Easy fix...left valve cover gasket was pushed out. Fixed that this morning. Fixed charging system issue. Took it for a drive. Computer seems to have caught up (or maybe now that thereís plenty of charging?). This GT, with the 2400 stall convertor and itís GT intake would spin maybe 3/4 of a tire on a hard launch. Now? It will lite Ďem up all through 1st and 2nd from a brake stall at 2000 to 2400 RPM. Very happy with how smooth the engine is running; same with the new shocks and springs. Itís a pleasure to drive (except the Flowmasters get a little annoying after awhile; Iíd take Borla any day).
Summary:
Bullit Intake
Powder coating
JLT CAI outside fender
Accel Coils (on the car when purchased)
Accel 19# injectors
NGK Laser Iridium Plugs
PA Performance 200 Amp alternator
Steeds Under-Drive Balancer & Pulleys
New water pump
New Eibach Pro Springs
New Energy Suspension upper & Lower Isolators
New Koni yellow (adjustable Front Struts
New Bilstein Quad Shocks
KYB Gas-A-Just Rear Shocks (used $50). Will eventually change to Koni.
2016 Mustang GT New Car Takeoff wheels & Tires
1.5Ē rear wheel spacers (Corral.net $35 used)
Hypertech Power Programer Plus (used)
FelPro Gaskets
Flowmaster Cat-Back (on car when purchased)
New 2400 RPM Pro-Torque Convertor
Wrecking yard 57,000 mile 4R70W
B&M cast Aluminum Deep Trans Pan
Paint and various nuts and bolts
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post #27 of 74 Old 11-27-2016, 08:39 AM
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Very nice can't wait to see track times. I might have missed it but do you plan on running drag radials?
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post #28 of 74 Old 11-27-2016, 04:27 PM
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You guys did a hellava job, got any pics of the rest of the car?
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post #29 of 74 Old 11-28-2016, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Very nice can't wait to see track times. I might have missed it but do you plan on running drag radials?
I want him to learn to manage wheel spin & launch first with the 3.27 gears and then with the 4.10ís we already have on the shelf. Drag radials will be later. Track will be very soon!
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post #30 of 74 Old 11-28-2016, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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You guys did a hellava job, got any pics of the rest of the car?
This is when we got the 2016 GT wheels. We have since added 1.5Ē spacers to the rears.
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post #31 of 74 Old 11-29-2016, 01:34 AM
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looks good.. but I'm no fan of accel coils.. had a friends car that would randomly cut off every few minutes for no reason.. finally swapped coils and problem gone.. no cel lights for coils either...

93 LX coupe 393 efi, on moth balls.
03 GT 2V [email protected] ..
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post #32 of 74 Old 11-29-2016, 01:54 AM
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I bought my Bullitt with a bad coil and I could see that 2 others had a different sticker on them. So I replaced them all with Accel coils and new OE plugs. No problems in almost 10 years 15k miles.... I'll keep an eye out for them to take a dump though...
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post #33 of 74 Old 02-03-2017, 01:29 AM Thread Starter
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OK...this is a real money pit! Soon after running the Bullitt Intake (very soon)....the timing chain guides and even tensioners are obliterated. Fixed that with all new parts behind the timing cover. Runs better but has a slight miss at light tip-in throttle mid range. Back to the shop.
They spent a day-and-a-half on it and it has a P1071 AND P1074 (lean condition bank 1 & 2). Smoke test finds no leaks. 32 PSI fuel pressure. Found one Accel coil bad and that took care of the problem. Runs as smooth as a new car. Does everything right. Nothing in the car exhibits what you would expect with a ďlean conditionĒ Great throttle response, pulls hard to revline, )2ís check, etc., etc.
They said the CEL would come back on and they have no other ideas. And of course it did come back on. But runs perfect...
They are convinced there is ďno wayĒ a GT PCM can calibrate itself to the added CFM airflow of a JLT outside fender (new MAF) and a twin 57mm TB which is what I asked here before I started. Can I be right? No way? Iíve always been of the mindset you fix it 100% before doing any other modifications (none planned other than tune and gears). I live in an emissions testing state. Just passed by an act of God and have tags on the car for two-years at least.
AMP (All Mustang Performance) here in Arizona is $600 dyno tune + $390 for the interface. Thatís a lot of money and already poured over $10K on this car.
Any ideas? Advice?
Thanks.
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post #34 of 74 Old 02-15-2017, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Spent 1/2 day yesterday at Arizona Dyno Chip in Chandler, Az with Keith, the owner. He took the time to get it right; engine tune, trans tune, shift points, lock-up, etc.
It was so bad on PCM diagnostics he wouldnít run it on the dyno as driven in. First pull with preliminary PCM chip was 232 RWHP at peak. By the end of the day, peak was 240 HP with average around 230 HP. Made a bunch of pulls; maybe 10-12? Guess I wasnít counting. But the drive home was another car. So much smoother, trans knew what & when it was supposed to do.

Again, basically a Bullitt w/ auto trans, 2400 convertor & 3.27 gears. Flowmaster cat-back, Steeda UD pulleys and JLT CAI outside fender. New timing chains, new stock MAF, new Accel 19# injectors and Accel coils.
If 20% loss to RWHP then 230 HP would be 276 HP at crank. That would be about the same as a brand new Bullitt in 2001 based on research here (I never believed the 265 HP rating). I donít know how many miles this GT engine has on it as I can see it had wrecking yard marks on the timing cover.
At peak RWHP of 240, then 288 HP or +13 over OEM fresh.

Sound about right?

Next stop: Dragstrip!
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post #35 of 74 Old 02-15-2017, 03:15 PM
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numbers seem right for not having headers.

Mods:
flat top pistons, ported stock heads, Comp 262ah cams, Manley rods
Best ET: [email protected]
Dyno #'s:325hp/330tq
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