electric motor swap - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 07-07-2018, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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electric motor swap

Daydream:
Two Focus electric drives (motor, axles, suspension) into an SN95: one replaces the rear axle, the other bolts in where the K-member goes.

I've got a 98 cobra with zero compression in one cylinder. Maybe I can build a poor-man's Tesla.


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post #2 of 15 Old 07-07-2018, 01:34 PM
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Wonder how heavy it would be with battery packs?

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post #3 of 15 Old 07-07-2018, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Wonder how heavy it would be with battery packs?
Two electric motors and paraphernalia such as axles, control arms, etc, and lots of Lithium batteries.... probably not much more than an iron OHV V8 with transmission, driveshaft, SRA, and that constantly-draining fuel tank.

Going fast in an electric car is going to cost more than equal speed with gas, but it's like a laser versus inkjet printer; pay up front and enjoy lower operating costs versus lower entry cost followed by a life of buying fluids.

I'm really getting used to the idea of never visiting a gas station or changing oil again.

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post #4 of 15 Old 07-07-2018, 10:51 PM
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Probably cheaper to buy a Tesla. The Focus Electric only has a 143hp and 184 ft-lb, so 2 would only be 286ish hp and 368ish ft-lb.

You could convert and stay with rear drive for reasonable costs probably. Warp9 or double Warp9 and batteries everywhere they fit.
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post #5 of 15 Old 07-10-2018, 10:58 AM
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Dual Siamese warp 11s. 5000RPM max with 1000ft-lbs of torque at the shaft. They're offered with an integrated powerglide. lol
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post #6 of 15 Old 07-14-2018, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Probably cheaper to buy a Tesla. The Focus Electric only has a 143hp and 184 ft-lb, so 2 would only be 286ish hp and 368ish ft-lb.

You could convert and stay with rear drive for reasonable costs probably. Warp9 or double Warp9 and batteries everywhere they fit.
Some guy in town has a dual Warp 9 setup for cheap. Part of me would want to connect that directly to the differential, complete with a torque arm underneath it.

Tesla now sells motors directly. Check out EV West.

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post #7 of 15 Old 02-01-2019, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
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Currently looking at a DC Warp9 dual motor and controller. The thing should bolt up where the T5 resides.
... then I have to get >$10k of lithium batteries and figure out how to mechanically support them.

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post #8 of 15 Old 02-01-2019, 12:06 PM
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You don't need the T5 with an electric motor. You just need to connect the output of the electric motor to the universal joint on the axle. You can get the dual Warp9 setup with a Turbo 400 output. Easy to hook that up.
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post #9 of 15 Old 04-30-2019, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: Weight:
1. A flat battery pack underneath the floor wouldn't terribly affect ground clearance and it makes a car extremely predictable in turns due to a very low center of gravity. (and heck, coilovers can always give some needed ground clearance as well.)

2. Per tjm73, the tranny can be tossed, but why not basically mount the motor in front of the differential? There's no real need for the DS.

3. fwiw I like the idea of no flywheel, just a clutch, and the tranny only having 3rd and 5th gear. A DC motor runs out of torque around 3krpm, so why not throw in a gear swap by leaving the t45 in there? Also, this will deliver a VSS signal to the speedo... which is about the only thing on the dash that will be working.

4. Anybody know the dimensions of a Focus Electric front end? I wouldn't mind doing away with the mustang's k-member and shock towers, especially if it means I'd get a front suspension designed after 1975. (I have an sn95).

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post #10 of 15 Old 06-28-2019, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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When I get done with my yard and balcony projects, I'm going to shop here: https://evwest.com/catalog/

Need an electric steering setup, electric AC, not sure about a defroster or heater.
It looks like twelve of these would fit where the gas tank goes: https://www.evwest.com/catalog/produ...2i6t5lkafunhe4 ... that would put 500 lbs over the rear axle. ... $9k... ouch.

motor: https://www.evwest.com/catalog/produ...2i6t5lkafunhe4

So an early design decision: mount the motor in front of the factory-mounted transmission (extra weight and expense, but more acceleration above 70mph), vs mounting the motor about where the tranny currently is.


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post #11 of 15 Old 06-28-2019, 04:09 AM
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Need an electric steering setup.
Volvo S-40 electric power steering pump. It can run the power steering and hydro boost brake setup from an SN95. I recently used one on a coyote swap fox body with a 98gt hydro boost master. Works great and simple wiring setup (no canbus control required)
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post #12 of 15 Old 06-28-2019, 08:05 AM
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2. Per tjm73, the tranny can be tossed, but why not basically mount the motor in front of the differential? There's no real need for the DS.
The only issue with mounting the electric motor in front of the axle with no driveshaft is it adds a substantial amount of unsprung weight to the rear suspension system. While not an insurmountable issue, it will require thought and re-engineering to compensate for. Making clearance for the motor in this setup might also require giving up some interior space. Perhaps flipping the axle so that the electric motor was behind the axle would be an option to save usable interior space. This would mandate a custom axle of course.

As for least intrusive packaging I think a motor hung in the transmission tunnel about 12-14 inches ahead of the rear axle with a CV drive shaft would be simplest. But clearance for speed bumps and rod debris may be an issue.

But in reality converting an ICE car into an EV is going to cost an exorbitant amount of money. The ROI will likely NEVER work out. The car will probably wear out before you break even. Or worse get totaled resulting in lost money for the conversion parts.

Look at the $9,000 for just batteries. I think it'll cost at least 3X that before your done. Today gas is about $3.70/gallon in San Diego (per gasbuddy.com). $27,000 will buy 7,297ish gallons. If your car gets only 20 mpg (totally doable if fuel economy is the goal), you can drive over 145,900 miles. How many miles a year do you drive? Average miles driven by Californians is about 14,400 per year. That's a little over 10 years just to break even.

I don't think the economics are there. You would be further ahead to buy something already made to be an EV. I bet there are used Tesla's or other EV's in the $30K price range at this point.
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post #13 of 15 Old 06-28-2019, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Volvo S-40 electric power steering pump. It can run the power steering and hydro boost brake setup from an SN95. I recently used one on a coyote swap fox body with a 98gt hydro boost master. Works great and simple wiring setup (no canbus control required)
Awesome, thanks!

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post #14 of 15 Old 06-29-2019, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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The only issue with mounting the electric motor in front of the axle with no driveshaft is it adds a substantial amount of unsprung weight to the rear suspension system. While not an insurmountable issue, it will require thought and re-engineering to compensate for. Making clearance for the motor in this setup might also require giving up some interior space. Perhaps flipping the axle so that the electric motor was behind the axle would be an option to save usable interior space. This would mandate a custom axle of course.

As for least intrusive packaging I think a motor hung in the transmission tunnel about 12-14 inches ahead of the rear axle with a CV drive shaft would be simplest. But clearance for speed bumps and rod debris may be an issue.

But in reality converting an ICE car into an EV is going to cost an exorbitant amount of money. The ROI will likely NEVER work out. The car will probably wear out before you break even. Or worse get totaled resulting in lost money for the conversion parts.

Look at the $9,000 for just batteries. I think it'll cost at least 3X that before your done. Today gas is about $3.70/gallon in San Diego (per gasbuddy.com). $27,000 will buy 7,297ish gallons. If your car gets only 20 mpg (totally doable if fuel economy is the goal), you can drive over 145,900 miles. How many miles a year do you drive? Average miles driven by Californians is about 14,400 per year. That's a little over 10 years just to break even.

I don't think the economics are there. You would be further ahead to buy something already made to be an EV. I bet there are used Tesla's or other EV's in the $30K price range at this point.
Your points are excellent and are exactly the reasons I flip back and forth between "coyote swap" and "electric conversion".

Please consider the following though:
1. Mustangs are NEVER about ROI... Mustangs are exercises in converting money into frustration.
2. An axle can't be operated upside down as the fluid would leak out the vents. But spinning it about the vertical axis, and presuming one can somehow attach a torque arm and LCAs, if the motor were attached to the axle and mounted (somehow) where the fuel tank presently is, everything should work just fine. Although as you stated, the unsprung weight is going to need addressing.... that much independent mass needs some serious study, and let's just agree right now that it's impractical.
3. Weight redistribution. A 32V Mustang has something like 60% of its weight over the front wheels, and much of that weight is way up high, about two thirds the way up the engine. Removing that engine and putting an electric motor in the transmission tunnel, along with batteries int he fuel tank location, significantly lowers the car's center of gravity while shifting the weight distribution back to the rear wheels. Such a car would corner like madness.
Plus, for those not familiar with modern electric cars, acceleration off the line is a strong-point, and doubly so with traction over the drive wheels.
4. Great point about speed bumps hitting the motor. I believe the motor would fit, but worse case I should consider a strike plate.

5. Cost. A proper coyote swap is $20k. MM front end, driver side cat, gen3 package (T56 et all) , sn95 accessory bracket and driveshaft. A proper E conversion is about that. The gas motor will involve the hassle of weekly visits to the gas station, biannual smog checks, oil changes every 5000 miles, and the frustration of idling away gasoline while sitting at a red light or in traffic, but will be a more comprehensive and finished package. And downright cool. The cruise control and "all the little things" should work, and the car should be good for cross-country trips.
An electric conversion will involve lots of customization and frankly I'm not sure how to even get a working speedo. But electric cars with lithium batteries (versus golf carts of yore) are sooo much funnnnnnnnn. I have an e-golf, and the little things like bad traffic just don't matter any more, since I'm serenely listening to the radio (versus a thunderous idle) and every morning I have a fully charged car, so no trips to the gas station anymore. And when people freak about increased gas prices I breath a sigh of relief that it doesn't affect me.
Plus, did you see that the dual motor has 1000 ft lbs of torque?

Victor Marshall


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Last edited by P63; 06-30-2019 at 06:01 PM.
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post #15 of 15 Old 07-16-2019, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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From the good folks at diyelectric.com

https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forum...ion-13195.html

There's a premium conversion shop in San Diego, the owner has five years of work lined up. He expressed amazement that nobody has a kit for the fox thru new edge stangs.

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