T56 Magnum swap in Foxbody info and input? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 06-14-2019, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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T56 Magnum swap in Foxbody info and input?

I was asked about what was need so I wanted to make a parts list and info about this for others.

First off I want to make it simple for people that just want to spend the money and not do a ton of extra research.

This is the company I am buying the Transmission from do a google search not one bad review you can call they will answer and help all day great customer service. (((You can call them and they will sell you everything needed if you don't feel like shopping around))) Also no shipping on most items or taxes in the long run its worth just buying everything from him.

The 5&6 Speed Specialist | Hanlon Motorsports

Now for the guy like me that wants to shop around (Want really save unless a big sale is going on) and fully understand what he is doing.

This has a ton of good info on it too get you started.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/under...smissions.html

Bellhousing this is the biggest problem stock T-5 is a 9 O'clock but everything I could find says you are going with a 7 O'clock bellhousing. Why does this matter many have problem with the long tube headers and the clutch fork.
Bought from Hanlon they are cheaper than others
QuickTime Bellhousings RM-8031 (the pivot ball didn't work with my dual friction clutch I ordered Lakewood #15502)

Clutch Fork (This will fix the problem)
M-7515-A 94-04 Mustang Clutch Fork 5-6-Speed

Flywheel (One I'm using)
62631 - McLeod Aluminum Flywheel - 6 Bolt 28oz & 50oz (86-95 5.0L)

Now let talk Clutch you really have two different was to go about this. (26 spline)
First Hydraulic TOB (This way you could use a regular clutch or a Dual being the hyd TOB will make both a soft clutch)
https://forums.corral.net/forums/gen...2-options.html

Second (The way I went) Dual Friction Clutch
62607 - McLeod RXT Twin Disc 1000HP Clutch - Upgraded 26 Spline
I also add these
47020 - Maximum Motorsports Aluminum Clutch Quadrant
47021 - Maximum Motorsports High Performance Clutch Cable
401291 - McLeod Pressure Plate Bolts
Plan on adding (402897 - Prosport Spark Plug Wire Boot - Black) (Going to slide this on the cable to help keep the heat off it and the speedo cable)

Drive shaft (many options) read info at the top of page/link (Hanlon sales one nicer but about $100extra)
I went with this one I called they said it is rated for 900hp but I think its more if there numbers are right.
(With a .125" wall thickness this driveshaft is rated up to 5,000 pound-ft. in torsional yield and 13,900 RPM for critical speed.)
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-FXT56MAG/mu...inum-1979-1993

Crossmember (Stifflers)
https://lmr.com/item/STF-TCBM02/Tran...-56-And-Tr3650

Speedo cable
1992 Ford F150 5.0 Speedometer Cable 92inch
Part#'s Y869 $10.96 Rock Auto
03236 $12.71 Rock Auto
CA3054 MAY work also

This part did work for me (CA-3011) (Different Transmission end)
($22 after sipping and tax) at Rockauto.com (This is a good deal)
Pioneer CA3011 (CA-3011)

Lock out and wiring
Option 1
Add 12v from brake light.
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-85656/t56-t...or-pigtail-kit

Nicer option 2
Halon has one also. (I bought it) little easier and nicer. Comes with above pig tails.

https://accutach.com/products-%26-services

option 3
T56 ORDER FORM

Some pull the spring out or put a weaker one in but could be put in reverse on accident. Spend the $100

Bolts needed (Bellhousing to Transmission)
I bought this from Halon

Drive shaft loop (I'm not adding one)
Stiffler make a cool one but will raise your transmission you can fix this with a 4.1104G transmission mount.
https://lmr.com/item/STF-DSLM02/1979...ft-Safety-Loop

More info to know
T56 magnum comes in 2 options
2.97 1st or 2.66 1st all come with a .63 6th before 2019 you could buy a .50 6th.
All come with electric or manual speedo option.

Gear Ratio Calculator

Its a 7 gear setup

https://lmr.com/products/Mustang-Spe...ear-Calculator

Exhaust

More info

https://forums.corral.net/forums/gen...l#post18566772

From what I can find all shorties work.

Long Tube is all over the place (I have no idea) One person will say Mac works the next says it want.

My personal setup is custom K-member dropped 3/4in so I want be any help.

If anyone can help with Exhaust please add what you know will work but add (what k-member and motor and transmission mounts being it seems to matter)


See post #3 #4 and #5 also

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post #2 of 14 Old 06-16-2019, 10:04 AM
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I had a set of Hooker 1 3/4" long tubes laying around and they fit fine around the bell & trans. However, the driver's side collector ends up pointing right at the crossmember in a weird position. No factory made H pipe was going to work (not even close!) so I had to make one. No big deal there although it does get close to the crossmember and I may ding it a little for clearance. Stiffler's trans mount, "convertible" (stock) engine mounts on a MM K-member.

Flywheel. I'd suggest a steel flywheel. Why? With the aluminum, it's really light....adds to the T56 idle "clunking". Sounds like a box of rocks inside the bellhousing and is considered normal (according to Tremec) at a 750 RPM idle. I'm going to have to increase the idle RPM to about 900-950 to help alleviate the annoyance. That and that aluminum wheel is so light that it's almost hard to drive; but some of that (in my case) is in the tune.

Yes on the lockout module. Worth every penny. Makes it more OEM-like. If the module fails you can still shove it into reverse by overcoming the spring, manually. Not that bad really and I drove mine that way for a while.

One thing I didn't see mentioned....speedometer cable. Get the long one. The factory one "will work" but it gets short and puts a heck of a bend in it at the transmission. I can't remember the part number for the one I got, it's a F150 application, found the numbers on this site via searching. Using it was really easy and the extra length allows one to move it away from the headers quite a bit more AND gives you a lot more room underneath to give it a nice long radius bend into the transmission.

Really the only install problem I had was an ear on the trans that hits the floorboard on the passenger side of the tunnel. Dinged the tunnel maybe 1/4" and it's fine. It was only during install, as the trans has to be lifted up behind the bellhousing, then inserted into the clutch and then the pilot--it has to be mostly in-line with them to get it all the way in, and the ear hits the tunnel before you can get it in all the way. Kinda hard to describe it but a quick ding in the tunnel fixed it on mine. Everyone's car is different, though. I was going to trim the ear off but I use the ear for a harness holder for the HEGO harness and didn't want to re-route everything.

The only two complaints I have are that I kinda wish I'd have used the 2.97 low gear instead of 2.66 and the aluminum flywheel. With the 2.66, you're shifting all the time and parking lots and stop and go traffic are a lot of clutch slipping. But I'm used to my 4 cylinder car's 3.97 low, in first gear it creeps along with no throttle input at idle, at like 0.9 mph or something. But then again, it's first gear is absolutely useless with the turbo when it's got the pipes packed, most of the time it doesnt' even build boost in first...just blows right through it. 0.63 6th is fine with the V8's torque; I don't get to use 6th all that much, 5th quite a bit (most of the roads I'm on are 55mph speed limits), with 3.73 gears. Suppose I could put in 3.90 or even 4.10 but I don't have the motivation to change gears right now. Oh one other complaint. If I drive the 4 cyl car all week and then hop into the '92 GT for a day, I get kinda used to reverse (on the T5) being right and back....and when I go to back up in the '92, I tend to put it into 6th and kill the engine. Still ain't got used to it, that's all.

I love how well the magnum shifts, it's mostly quiet and it's fun. Glad I did it instead of the TKO600 that my brother put in his '55 custom behind a 351c. While it serves the purpose, it don't shift nearly as good as the T56 does. Nowhere near! He is considering sending it off to Liberty, dunno if he's gonna have it faceplated or what....I ain't talked to him in a week or so. But it's a cool old restomod.

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post #3 of 14 Old 07-11-2019, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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I have also updated post #1 parts list.

Had the wrong speedo cable so updated it.

My build will have a ton of extra Transmission info on it starting on post #93 also.

https://forums.corral.net/forums/mem...eed-build.html

Key points

If I had to do it all over I would have just bought 99% of my stuff from Hanlon Motorsports. I really didn't save any money and would have saved me a ton of time.

One thing to remember is the T56 and the T56 magnum are different.

I bought the LMR pigtail kit it comes with the VSS pigtail I didn't need and no pigtail for the electric speedo if you plan to use it. (I didn't) but if you did the transmission comes with the sensor but you will still need the pigtail.

The big thing was the pivot ball was to long for the dual friction clutch. So I bought the Lakewood pivot ball (15502) I made it as short as I could get it and still get the fork on. See pic

Even with that I still had to grind a little off the fork to really free it up and get it out of any bind. I know this might sound like a big deal but if you have a cheap wheel grinder you can do this in 5 min no big deal. (see pics)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_3420.jpg (97.1 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3429.jpg (55.4 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3428.jpg (55.8 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3425.jpg (69.9 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3431.jpg (87.0 KB, 15 views)

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post #4 of 14 Old 07-11-2019, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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Now own to electrical it really wasn't that bad and I'm going to give you all the info. SEE PICS

First off the neutral safety switch. I just cut the cable after the plug (cut by the sensor) that way I still had the plug on my car and could always buy a new sensor. Then you just put the wires together. To test this you can take you sensor wires with a volt meter and check the ohms with it in neutral and in gear. it will test ohms in neutral. thats the way you want it all the time like it is in neutral so the wires go together. zips tie it out of the way or if you really want to clean it up and don't mind pulling the carpet up you could pull carpet find wires cut and tie together and hide under carpet.

Now for the back up lights is simple cut the sensor side tie in with your new pigtail you bought plug into new style sensor and you are done.


Now the reverse lockout this also ended up being easy. (See pics for help) They say its 2.5x2.5 but its 1inx1in
I just ran it behind the radio.
You have 4 wires https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/197...h40_640512.pdf
Ground Black (Just ground it)
power to reverse lockout and Unit Red (Need key on 12 volts)
ground to reverse lockout White
remote wire to VSS. Blue (This will work with your stock VSS I did it on the +side but they say it doesn't matter)(See pic)
I pulled carpet and tied into the VSS inside the car. I also plugged the 2 wires I needed outside through the rubber plug that the transmission wires came through the car so it was super clean. those 2 wire go to the reverse lockout.
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post #5 of 14 Old 07-11-2019, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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As I said way more pics and info will be posted on my build. Hope to have time tomorrow.

The lockout is working I tested it but car isn't running yet so haven't tested everything but will update when I do.

Any questions just ask

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post #6 of 14 Old 07-12-2019, 09:48 AM
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nice write up

Just to add with neutral sense switch, you can disable the logic in the ecm, with a tuner

that is the ideal way to deal with that

also, why didn't you consider a hydraulic clutch?

i think it would made for a cleaner and better feel, no messy clutch adjustments needed in the future

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post #7 of 14 Old 07-12-2019, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
nice write up

Just to add with neutral sense switch, you can disable the logic in the ecm, with a tuner

that is the ideal way to deal with that

also, why didn't you consider a hydraulic clutch?

i think it would made for a cleaner and better feel, no messy clutch adjustments needed in the future
Thanks for the info

I did consider it I know you push it to everyone and for good reason. I have read a ton of your input to people and respect it. (not just on this but everything)

https://forums.corral.net/forums/gen...2-options.html

My thoughts. It was about the $
I am so deep in this build already and wanted to spend it wisely.
To me I had 3 options
1. hydraulic clutch/TOB $600 then I could buy a single clutch with a super hard clamping that wouldn't cost a ton say $500 Stage 5 spec clutch (1000hp)

2. Buy Cable, Fork, quadrant $150 then a twin disk Clutch $950 (1000hp)
(No matter how you look at it the cable is stupid easy also)

1 and 2 are $1100 but Option 1 I don't think would be even close to as street friendly.

Option 3
Hydraulic clutch $600 twin disk Clutch $950 This would be nice but cost $400. Just not sure with the twin disk clutch it is needed.

I don't think its needed as far as clutch feel is concerned (it feels great right now) if I have problems with exhaust I will buy the hydraulic clutch/TOB and make the swap. Not a big deal for me I will just put the new cable and quadrant in my other car. Win Win

I know from what I have read a concern is the cable getting hot on the exhaust. See Pic how I added plug wire boot if you look to the right of my exhaust you can also see how I added 2 of them to my speedo cable also I think it all looks super clean
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post #8 of 14 Old 07-12-2019, 11:48 AM
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one of my concerns with cable, is its strength

with a stock type clamping force, it can be adequate

once you start adding clamping force, cable, firewall start giving way

this leads to inconsistent engagement

due to this clamping force increase, it would be better to go twin disc, with a cable

and avoid high clamping single discs all together
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
one of my concerns with cable, is its strength

with a stock type clamping force, it can be adequate

once you start adding clamping force, cable, firewall start giving way

this leads to inconsistent engagement

due to this clamping force increase, it would be better to go twin disc, with a cable

and avoid high clamping single discs all together
Correct way less clamp force with the twin disc. (my new clutch is stupid easy)

Thats why option 1 and 2 make sense.

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post #10 of 14 Old 07-12-2019, 12:21 PM
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I don't see a twin disc in your option list, dual friction?


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post #11 of 14 Old 07-12-2019, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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I don't see a twin disc in your option list, dual friction?
yes sorry guess I need to reword it

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post #12 of 14 Old 07-12-2019, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Updated

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post #13 of 14 Old 07-12-2019, 02:07 PM
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Regarding the modifications to the clutch fork. I would not grind on the clutch fork where you did for clearance or only do this the absolute minimum amount required. The location where material was removed is the highest stress point on the clutch fork. Even if it doesn't fail short term, you are making the clutch fork less stiff and creating a stress riser which could lead to long term cracking and then failure.

I would just grind material off of the mid plate of the transmission for clearance.

Since you are using a dual disc clutch here is another potential big issue. The end of the throwout bearing sleeve can run into the hub of the rear friction disc. See attached photo with wear marks showing this. If there isn't too much interference, the car may shift ok, but it is going to trash the synchros in the transmission very quickly.

To fix this, the midplate from the transmission needs to be removed, so that the throwout bearing sleeve can be pulled out from the back and out into a lathe for machining.

Look at the first photo in post #3. See how little length of splines are visible? Remember that both friction disc hubs must engage with these splines, plus the gap between them and not hit the front of the sleeve. When installing a dual disc clutch in a car with a T56, the clearances down here are very, very tight.
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post #14 of 14 Old 07-12-2019, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Regarding the modifications to the clutch fork. I would not grind on the clutch fork where you did for clearance or only do this the absolute minimum amount required. The location where material was removed is the highest stress point on the clutch fork. Even if it doesn't fail short term, you are making the clutch fork less stiff and creating a stress riser which could lead to long term cracking and then failure.

I would just grind material off of the mid plate of the transmission for clearance.

Since you are using a dual disc clutch here is another potential big issue. The end of the throwout bearing sleeve can run into the hub of the rear friction disc. See attached photo with wear marks showing this. If there isn't too much interference, the car may shift ok, but it is going to trash the synchros in the transmission very quickly.

To fix this, the midplate from the transmission needs to be removed, so that the throwout bearing sleeve can be pulled out from the back and out into a lathe for machining.

Look at the first photo in post #3. See how little length of splines are visible? Remember that both friction disc hubs must engage with these splines, plus the gap between them and not hit the front of the sleeve. When installing a dual disc clutch in a car with a T56, the clearances down here are very, very tight.
Thanks thats big time.

WOW, that could be a big deal I will check it when I get home in 3 weeks if it is touching I guess I will be pulling the transmission and cutting part of the throwout bearing sleeve off.

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