If you have to do bushings, get the complete arms. If you have to do ball joints and bushings, get the whole arms.
Don't use urethane on stock front suspension setup. Coilover=ok but not with the stock spring/strut setup. EVERY crack, pebble, nut, spark plug, brake pad remnant, rubber goober, and expansion joint in the road will jar your fillings out!
LMR's arms are a little more expensive than elsewhere online. They come from the same place. They're all backordered at the moment; unless you luck out & find a vendor who's got them in stock which might be possible. I ordered mine in April, ESD sometime in July. Good thing I ain't in no hurry.
I've done ball joints on the other car, and did bushings. Ball joints are no problem but the bushings are kind of a pain. Where they are held into the control arms, it's basically sheet metal and you can't just press them out easily without bending the control arm itself. I find it easier to remove the sleeve from the rubbers via drill bit (run a 1/4" drill bit through the rubber and let it works it's way around in circles until the rubber's mostly gone). Then cut a slot with a hacksaw blade in the bushing outer sleeve, then remove it by hand. Takes me about 3-4 hours to do both arms this way (including removal and then reinstallation) Or R&R complete arms in less time and less headache.
On my '93 coupe, the control arms are flat worn out. Ball joints are "ok" but they need to be replaced. Bushings? LOL. The toe changes quite a bit with just bushing flex. I do my own alignments at home (Thanks to MFE's article...search it on this site) and I find that on worn bushings, you can roll the car backward after adjusting the toe, then re-check it and it'll be way off, or vise versa (roll it forward after checking toe). There's more to it than that, but they are just shot and in dire need of replacement!
Reminds me...all this talk of bushings...I gotta do the rears too. Probably just replace the whole UCA and RLCA's complete with factory replacements.