93 Mustang 3G Alternator output feed is 14.4V, Voltage Regulator green/wire is showing 10.6V - wrong resistor? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 70 Old 04-05-2019, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
93 Mustang 3G Alternator output feed is 14.4V, Voltage Regulator green/wire is showing 10.6V - wrong resistor?

Hey guys,

I installed the Dakota Digital Cluster recently and after driving about 100 miles, my alternator failed. I only tested the charging system voltage at the battery after install. It was good, showing 14.4V at battery. I did not check anything else at that point specifically the alternator D plug green/red wire because I did not think of it.

After putting on the new alternator this morning, my charging system is restored at 14.4V while running, but I immediately noticed that my voltage regulator green/red wire is showing 10.6V while running. I know there is supposed to be only less than 1V difference between the battery voltage and the green/red wire while running. We are looking at a difference of almost 4 volts right now.

I also tested the green/red wire out at KOEO and it was showing 1.45 with this good/new alternator. It is supposed to be showing 2.4-2.6V.

I assume that this is due to having too strong of a resistor in the supplied wire I got from Dakota which takes place for the 500 ohm resistor on the factory gauge cluster for the alternator exciter wire? I am positive this is why my previous alternator failed due to not sufficient voltage being fed into the voltage regulator.

Am I correct in my logic? This kind of thing is new to me so I am not too sure and was hoping someone would be able to confirm this.

I understand this wire connects to the resistor on the factory cluster. I recently installed Dakota Digital cluster and they supplied me a pre-wired resistor to put in between pin 14 and pin 2 on the right side cluster connector. I suspect that I need to replace the resistor in this wire to a different resistor that will allow a little more electrical flow to the exciter wire to provide appropriate voltage.

If I am correct then any suggestions on which resistor I should get and where to get one locally ASAP? I probably need to tear the wrap open and see what I am working with right now and get a lower resistance resistor?

Thanks,

-Jarvis

Attached Images
File Type: jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_502d.jpg (87.4 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_502e.jpg (86.2 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_502f.jpg (72.7 KB, 21 views)
JCBeaver is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 10:14 AM
Registered User
 
indy2000's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: vancouver
Posts: 20,675
where are your leads exactly, during each test?

in order to measure a potential across a circuit load there must be current flow

otherwise you have an open circuit and are measuring a potential


89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
indy2000 is offline  
post #3 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
where are your leads exactly, during each test?

in order to measure a potential across a circuit load there must be current flow

otherwise you have an open circuit and are measuring a potential
I do not have an open circuit verified by my testing posted by jrichker. I have all my testing with ground on the battery while positive at the leads I am supposed to test. I am out of the house at the moment but I will be happy to list out my test results when I get back. I know for sure I do not have open circuit as I saw 12V at green/red wire when the plug isn’t plugged in on the alternator. That was the test I am supposed to do before testing the green/red wire while plugged in.
JCBeaver is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 10:43 AM
Registered User
 
indy2000's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: vancouver
Posts: 20,675
if you measure a battery by itself, it usually measures 12volts

its an open circuit

if you put one light bulb connected to the battery posts

you will measure ~12volts

complete circuit

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
indy2000 is offline  
post #5 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
correct the battery will give me 12V if I measure it by itself.

I was testing the green/red wire per the guidance. It is showing too low voltage once plugged into alternator at KOEO. Everything else checks out.
JCBeaver is offline  
post #6 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
I will post pictures when I get home. In about an hour. Showing my tests results. Thanks
JCBeaver is offline  
post #7 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 11:07 AM
Registered User
 
indy2000's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: vancouver
Posts: 20,675
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCBeaver View Post
correct the battery will give me 12V if I measure it by itself.

I was testing the green/red wire per the guidance. It is showing too low voltage once plugged into alternator. Everything else checks out.
that is my point

what does that lower voltage mean?

this is key, to understand what you expect to see, and why, and what you measure, and why it has changed.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
indy2000 is offline  
post #8 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 11:10 AM
Registered User
 
indy2000's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: vancouver
Posts: 20,675
also you now have 2 threads on this, you need to pick one.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
indy2000 is offline  
post #9 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
I thought it means I have the wrong resistor.

Because I tested for open circuit by unplugging the D plug and test the green/red wire at KOEO it checks out at 12V. Once plugged in it goes down.
JCBeaver is offline  
post #10 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
I will use this thread considering it is my own thread. Thanks

JCBeaver is offline  
post #11 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
Engine off, ignition off, battery fully charged.
1.) Look for 12 volts at the alternator output. No 12 volts and the dark green fuse link between the orange/black wires and the battery side of the starter solenoid has open circuited.
3G alternator: Look for 12 volts at the stud on the back of the alternator where the 4 gauge power feed wire is bolted.
No voltage and the fuse for the 4 gauge power feed wire is open or there are some loose connections.
2.) Look for 12 volts on the yellow/white wire that is the power feed to the regulator. No 12 volts, and the fuse link for the yellow/white wire has open circuited.

Engine off, ignition on, battery fully charged:
1.) Alternator warning light should glow. No glow, bulb has burned out or there is a break in the wiring between the regulator plug and the dash. The warning light supplies an exciter voltage that tells the regulator to turn on. There is a 500 ohm resistor in parallel with the warning light so that if the bulb burns out, the regulator still gets the exciter voltage.
Disconnect the D connector with the 3 wires (yellow/white, white/black and green/red) from the voltage regulator.
Measure the voltage on the Lt green/red wire. It should be 12 volts. No 12 volts and the wire is broken, or the 500 ohm resistor and dash indicator lamp are bad. If the 12 volts is missing, replace the warning lamp. If after replacing the warning lamp, the test fails again, the wiring between the warning lamp and the alternator is faulty. The warning lamp circuit is part of the instrument panel and contains some connectors that may cause problems.

2.) Reconnect the D plug to the alternator
Probe the green/red wire from the rear of the connector and use the battery negative post as a ground. You should see 2.4-2.6 volts. No voltage and the previous tests passed, you have a failed voltage regulator. This is an actual measurement taken from a car with a working electrical system. If you see full or almost full12 volts, the regulator has failed.

Engine on, Ignition on, battery fully charged:
Probe the green/red wire from the rear of the connector and use the battery negative post as a ground. You should see battery voltage minus .25 to 1.0 volt. If the battery measured across the battery is 15.25 volts, you should see 14.50 volts



************************************

Picture #1 - my battery voltage showing 12.77. Dmm connected to battery positive and negative.

Picture #2 - alternator is showing 12.77V just like the battery. Also the yellow wire is looped to the alternator post therefore it is showing 12.77 as well.

Picture #3 - D plug unplugged. Probed green/red wire from behind and it is showing 12.11V KOEO which is the battery voltage. DMM negative is connected to battery negative.

Picture #4 - D plug plugged back in. Probed green/red wire from behind and it is showing 1.44 volts KOEO.

This is why I have came down to the fact that my resistor is providing too much of a resistance.

I noticed that my battery depletes a little quick when KOEO with nothing else turned on. Something is stealing power from somewhere.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_503d.jpg (109.7 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5038.jpg (128.7 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5034.jpg (75.9 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5036.jpg (131.7 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_503b.jpg (125.6 KB, 9 views)
JCBeaver is offline  
post #12 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
does the bulb light up when engine is running?
Not sure if I understand you correctly. I do not have the battery light anymore considering i have the aftermarket cluster.

Now for the bulb "light up", can you elaborate what do you mean?

Right now I am experiencing significant drain at KOEO when it was not like that last night. I am baffled, however, see attached for the picture of the voltage coming from Pin 2 and then voltage after the resistor at Pin 14. The battery is being drained while KOEO in the pic showing 10.2 volts, but I am trying to show that the exciter wire voltage is being supplied by #2 pin which is a 12V ignition switch source.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5033.jpg (75.6 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_503c.jpg (80.7 KB, 6 views)
JCBeaver is offline  
post #13 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 02:41 PM
Registered User
 
indy2000's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: vancouver
Posts: 20,675
remove the resistor

put a temp bulb in its place, start and run

does the bulb light up?

indicating a under or overcharge

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
indy2000 is offline  
post #14 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
remove the resistor

put a temp bulb in its place, start and run

does the bulb light up?

indicating a under or overcharge
Ah! Ok I shall do that. Gotta find a good bulb to use on that set up.
JCBeaver is offline  
post #15 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
OK the bulb did not light up. I used a tail lamp bulb i had lying around. I am 99% sure the connections are sufficient even though I did not solder anything just twisted the wires temporarily.

The car started up and running in the pic, and the bulb did not turn on at all. not even a little bit.

What does this mean to you? What were you trying to achieve by asking me to put in a bulb to test if it would light up?

Thanks
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_8353.jpg (67.9 KB, 12 views)
JCBeaver is offline  
post #16 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 04:28 PM
Registered User
 
indy2000's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: vancouver
Posts: 20,675
the bulb indicates a charging issue when lit

what is the battery voltage with bulb and running?

you dont have a bulb test on start up?

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
indy2000 is offline  
post #17 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
I just went out to try start her up again and she wouldn’t start this time because it ran on battery last time due to the exciter wire not activating. I guess I did not wire the bulb properly.

I got her jump started then she was running down to 11V due to alternator not charging because of no voltage on the exciter wire.

I am going to try a different bulb and use solder.

The battery drain at KOEO is killing me.
JCBeaver is offline  
post #18 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
OK... I ditched the tail light bulb. i used a factory gauge cluster bulb and it was much better.

This time I got full power at the bulb (lighted up) when KOEO, however the reading from pin 14 is 12 volts while the connection at pin 2 is 2.65. I guess the light bulb is providing resistance by itself. The light turns off once engine is running.

Once started up, the engine ran beautifully at 14.4 and the green/red wire shows 14V at the alternator D plug... Also when KOEO, I am showing 2.65 V at the D plug, which the alternator needs to see.

So I guess it is confirmed that I need the appropriate resistance resistor to get it to run appropriately. The light bulb apparently is providing me the resistance i needed almost on the dot. Now the alternator voltage regulator is running at a difference of less than 1 volt when compared to the battery voltage, which is perfect.

On a side note, I have a serious drain at KOEO so that is a separate issue.
JCBeaver is offline  
post #19 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 05:18 PM
Registered User
 
indy2000's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: vancouver
Posts: 20,675
drain?

how many amps?

current clamp all the circuit to find it

Also remember if that bulb opens, you will lose charging

you need the correct resistor in parallel

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
indy2000 is offline  
post #20 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 05:22 PM
Registered User
 
indy2000's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: vancouver
Posts: 20,675
I would recommend you read on the theory on how the charging works

the alt will provide a ground, to illuminate a ground when no fielding

there should always be battery voltage at the bulb

if there is no ground, there is NO current there is voltage drop

if the alt stops charging it will provide a ground, and after the bulb, voltage should drop to 0 volts.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
indy2000 is offline  
post #21 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
drain?

how many amps?

current clamp all the circuit to find it

Also remember if that bulb opens, you will lose charging

you need the correct resistor in parallel
Yeah, it is draining way more than what the bulb would drain from the battery. Literally dropping .1 volt per second. Now my battery is depleted and it needs recharged. However it did run nicely when I used jumper cables to start her up with the bulb.

Yeah, I need to determine what kind of resistance does the gauge cluster bulb provide and get similar spec resistor. This part is foreign to me so I am trying my best to find the correct resistor.

I am not 100% sure how do I measure battery drain by the amps? I will need to google on this.
JCBeaver is offline  
post #22 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
I would recommend you read on the theory on how the charging works

the alt will provide a ground, to illuminate a ground when no fielding

there should always be battery voltage at the bulb

if there is no ground, there is NO current there is voltage drop

if the alt stops charging it will provide a ground, and after the bulb, voltage should drop to 0 volts.
I do see battery voltage at the bulb but not at the output of the bulb if that makes sense? That was for KOEO. It turned off while running which indicates I have properly working charging system?
JCBeaver is offline  
post #23 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 07:40 PM
Registered User
 
indy2000's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: vancouver
Posts: 20,675
does the bulb come on then turn off KOEO?

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
indy2000 is offline  
post #24 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 08:13 PM
Registered User
 
indy2000's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: vancouver
Posts: 20,675
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCBeaver View Post
Yeah, it is draining way more than what the bulb would drain from the battery. Literally dropping .1 volt per second. Now my battery is depleted and it needs recharged. However it did run nicely when I used jumper cables to start her up with the bulb.

Yeah, I need to determine what kind of resistance does the gauge cluster bulb provide and get similar spec resistor. This part is foreign to me so I am trying my best to find the correct resistor.

I am not 100% sure how do I measure battery drain by the amps? I will need to google on this.
a dc clamp meter makes it easy......$$$

or your dvom might have amp capability, but you will have to wire the battery in series with it, then start pulling fuses.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
indy2000 is offline  
post #25 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
does the bulb come on then turn off KOEO?
It stays on until I start the engine then it turns off.

I think my charging system is fine. I just need to get the proper resistor so the voltage regulator will be getting proper voltage. My current resistors are too restrictive. The set up with cluster bulb gave it the perfect load that it needed. I will just leave it there until I figure out where to get the appropriate resistor.

All of the resistors I got today appears to be too restrictive. all of them are 1/2 or 1/4 watt. Not sure where to find 200 or 250 Ohm 1 watt 5% resistors. I am working on it
JCBeaver is offline  
post #26 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
a dc clamp meter makes it easy......$$$

or your dvom might have amp capability, but you will have to wire the battery in series with it, then start pulling fuses.
Yeah damn it.... It was not like that last night literally. I put the door panel back on the drivers door on this morning and now I am thinking maybe something is being shorted out behind the door panel, but it sure is a head scratcher why it has suddenly started to drain at KOEO.

I will get to it. At least the charging system works well when fired up.

Thanks
JCBeaver is offline  
post #27 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 09:08 PM
Registered User
 
indy2000's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: vancouver
Posts: 20,675
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCBeaver View Post
It stays on until I start the engine then it turns off.

I think my charging system is fine. I just need to get the proper resistor so the voltage regulator will be getting proper voltage. My current resistors are too restrictive. The set up with cluster bulb gave it the perfect load that it needed. I will just leave it there until I figure out where to get the appropriate resistor.

All of the resistors I got today appears to be too restrictive. all of them are 1/2 or 1/4 watt. Not sure where to find 200 or 250 Ohm 1 watt 5% resistors. I am working on it
sounds right with the light.......

did you ohm the light bulb when at room temp?

that will give a resistor value

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
indy2000 is offline  
post #28 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 09:09 PM
Registered User
 
indy2000's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: vancouver
Posts: 20,675
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCBeaver View Post
Yeah damn it.... It was not like that last night literally. I put the door panel back on the drivers door on this morning and now I am thinking maybe something is being shorted out behind the door panel, but it sure is a head scratcher why it has suddenly started to drain at KOEO.

I will get to it. At least the charging system works well when fired up.

Thanks
there are no head scratchers with electrical

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
indy2000 is offline  
post #29 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
sounds right with the light.......

did you ohm the light bulb when at room temp?

that will give a resistor value
Good idea - I need to learn how to measure OHMs ha! That will give me my answer. I am still learning a lot of this electrical stuff, getting there I hope. Thanks again!
JCBeaver is offline  
post #30 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
there are no head scratchers with electrical
Haha I guess it can be easy for some people. I am still new to electrical and am working on expanding my knowledge of using the DMM and understanding how things work. At least I can measure voltage when a lot of my friends don't even know how to do this.

Appreciate your inputs. At least we can say my charging system seems to be OK. Just got to measure my cluster bulb for its resistance and get the similar spec resistor.

I gotta chase down what is stealing my power at KOEO. I should be set once I find the culprit.
JCBeaver is offline  
post #31 of 70 Old 04-06-2019, 11:55 PM
Registered User
 
indy2000's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: vancouver
Posts: 20,675
key with electrical testing

you need to know what you expect to see

then measure

otherwise the reading is meaningless.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
indy2000 is offline  
post #32 of 70 Old 04-08-2019, 01:36 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (26)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 853
Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
a dc clamp meter makes it easy......$$$

or your dvom might have amp capability, but you will have to wire the battery in series with it, then start pulling fuses.
Amazon or Harbor Freight have some decent DVM with amp clamp. I think I got mine on Amazon for about $55. I used it to test amp draw on electrical components as I am rewiring the underhood of my 85 to verify fuse and relay loads.
droopie is offline  
post #33 of 70 Old 04-10-2019, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by droopie View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
a dc clamp meter makes it easy......$$$

or your dvom might have amp capability, but you will have to wire the battery in series with it, then start pulling fuses.
Amazon or Harbor Freight have some decent DVM with amp clamp. I think I got mine on Amazon for about $55. I used it to test amp draw on electrical components as I am rewiring the underhood of my 85 to verify fuse and relay loads.
Thanks! I just placed an order on this DVM with amp clamp.

AstroAI Digital Clamp Meter, TRMS 6000 Counts Multimeter Volt Meter with Manual and Auto Ranging; Measures Voltage Tester, Current, Resistance, Continuity, Frequency; Tests Diodes, Temperature https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0746HHRQF..._kMERCbCWGQSJ1

However I noticed that it says that it only measures AC current. Is that going to be an issue?

If I am going to be Ok, then what is the best way to use the clamp on my set up to determine what is stealing all of the power at KOEO?

Thanks!
JCBeaver is offline  
post #34 of 70 Old 04-10-2019, 09:14 AM
Registered User
 
indy2000's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: vancouver
Posts: 20,675
that does not do DC amperage via a clamp

choose another one

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
indy2000 is offline  
post #35 of 70 Old 04-10-2019, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
JCBeaver's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 196
Double post. Phone app won’t let me delete this post. Thanks
JCBeaver is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Blown motor, what to do now? jarryd2018 GT & SOHC 15 04-29-2010 11:09 PM
Trade my MUSTANG GT COBRA 1990 for a 94-98 mustang. 97greenstang Mustangs For Sale/Wanted ARCHIVE 8 06-24-2003 06:30 PM
Long term fuel trims maxed at+25%, what does this mean? 99SaleenS281 GT & SOHC 68 07-15-2002 08:12 AM
Mach 1 Inafo & Specs Cobro GT & SOHC 2 05-10-2002 04:13 PM
Mach 1 Press Release frank3si GT & SOHC 0 03-27-2002 10:20 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome