93 Mustang 3G Alternator output feed is 14.4V, Voltage Regulator green/wire is showing 10.6V - wrong resistor? - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #36 of 70 Old 04-10-2019, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
that does not do DC amperage via a clamp

choose another one
I got this one instead:

Uni-T B4Q094 UT210E True RMS AC/DC Current Mini Clamp M W Capacitance Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ..._G0ERCbRNHHMX9

Seems to be a good one.

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post #37 of 70 Old 04-10-2019, 09:23 AM
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it has 100amp dc limit, that is not enough if you are checking a 130amp alt


https://www.amazon.com/FLUKE-362-Tru...s%2C286&sr=8-8


89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #38 of 70 Old 04-10-2019, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
it has 100amp dc limit, that is not enough if you are checking a 130amp alt


https://www.amazon.com/FLUKE-362-Tru...s%2C286&sr=8-8
Looks like all of the cheaper units have a limit of 100A

Would you be comfortable with Klein brand clamp that can do up to 600 Amps? It is a little cheaper. See below.

Digital Clamp Meter AC/DC Auto-Ranging 600 Amp Measures Voltage, Resistance, Temp, More Klein Tools CL800 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019CY4FB4..._a-ERCbH7KDS59
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post #39 of 70 Old 04-10-2019, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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I went with the Klein clamp CL800 which apparently does have a range of 600 Amps for both AC and DC. It was almost $30 cheaper.

Please do let me know if any of you advise against the Klein brand meters. I can always cancel my order and get the right one.

I should get the clamp delivered tomorrow then I am going to try to get to bottom of my power draw issue right away so I can get it 100% right before the transport company picks up my mustang to be shipped to California on May 5th. I am relocating to a San Diego in less than a month.

Thanks guys!
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post #40 of 70 Old 04-10-2019, 09:59 AM
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that should work

its not a fluke, but should work

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #41 of 70 Old 04-10-2019, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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that should work

its not a fluke, but should work
Thanks for confirming. I am aware it is not a Fluke brand. Considering the fact that I will probably use it once and set it aside to collect dust, I was more than happy to save $25-30. Klein seems to be quite reputable per my google search. Right up there as a Fluke competitor.

I will google on how to test for DC amp draw. On other hand, let me know if you have pointers on how to use it.

I am assuming I will need to measure the draw on all of the wires that is connected to my 12V junction next to the battery. Determine which one is drawing the power and then chase after that circuit?

Thanks again
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post #42 of 70 Old 04-10-2019, 12:09 PM
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in the old days, before $17 starbuck lattes, $300 nike running shoes and unlimited funds for test equipment, we used to solder a light bulb across a blown fuse. that method would be laughed at these days with high price fluke testers.
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post #43 of 70 Old 04-10-2019, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCBeaver View Post
Thanks for confirming. I am aware it is not a Fluke brand. Considering the fact that I will probably use it once and set it aside to collect dust, I was more than happy to save $25-30. Klein seems to be quite reputable per my google search. Right up there as a Fluke competitor.

I will google on how to test for DC amp draw. On other hand, let me know if you have pointers on how to use it.

I am assuming I will need to measure the draw on all of the wires that is connected to my 12V junction next to the battery. Determine which one is drawing the power and then chase after that circuit?

Thanks again

as soon as you fix it, you plan to sell the car?

or

do you believe you will never have another electrical issue with it?

easy to use

measure the main battery cable for amperage,,,,,then move to the solenoid and do each feed off it

you just keep narrowing it down,,,,,,,

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post #44 of 70 Old 04-10-2019, 07:12 PM
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Garage
You DONT need a 130AMP capable meter to test the output. It's only going to draw that much power through the meter if you rev the engine, have a completely dead battery, and turn-on everything in the car. Even if the electric fan comes-on, you'll only get about a 10-12 AMP increase from next to nothing (with battery charged.)
Here's what you do:
1. Set your meter to AMPs AND move the meters Red lead from OHMs and Voltage input, to the correct spot on the meter for measuring AMPs. Black lead should remain where it's at on the meter.
2. Car off, key off, connect the red meter lead to the battery +, and black meter lead to the + battery cable (which is disconnected from the battery). You should see some amount of current draw (probably 1+ AMPs from your drain description)
3. Watching the meter face, start pulling fuses until you see the meter reading drop to zero or very close to it.
4. Whatever fuse you pulled that caused the meter change will be where your short is located.

Tip: problems like this are almost ALWAYS directly related to what you did last to the car. Look in the area for knocked loose wires, connectors, dropped screws shorting things, etc.
Good luck!
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post #45 of 70 Old 04-10-2019, 08:08 PM
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if there are any plans to test in the future, then 130 amp, is quite necessary

and its easy with a clamp


89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #46 of 70 Old 04-11-2019, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses, guys!

I will play with the clamp today or tomorrow after I get it in the mail today.

I wanted to share my findings from my short time in the garage last night:

1. I received the resistors I ordered, ranging from 150 to 250 ohm. I put in 250 first and was baffled to see that it only read 1.45V. I threw 150 ohm on to test it out and sure enough it capped out at 1.45-1.5V again (reading voltage after the resistor). So I started to throw different resistors and it seems like no matter which resistor I use, it is going to cap out at 1.45-1.5V.

I am not sure what is going on. It appears to me that the electrical flow is being bottlenecked when using resistors if I make sense? I should note once again that the gauge cluster bulb worked perfect for what I needed but NONE of the resistors would work properly for me.... Does it have something to do with different specs that I need to look at? Keep in mind, the 12V source is from Pin #2 on the right side cluster connector which is the Ignition Switch source. I am wondering if I should try a different 12V source. I believe Pin #7 is a 12V input, which is unused, so I could try using that wire instea, but really there isnt any reason to considering pin#2 is supplying proper battery voltage.

2. For the power draw at KOEO, I am positive I know where the draw is coming from already.

While fiddling with Pin#14 (light green/red) Alternator exciter wire and the pin #2 (red/ light green) Ignition Switch wire, I noticed that when I have the alternator exciter wire disconnected from the ignition switch wire, the battery stops draining... Any time I connect those two wires, the battery likes to drain quite bit at KOEO.

However, my battery is acting better now after being fully charged. It is more stable now, but still the quick drain as soon as I turn key into ON position is a little odd to me. It quickly goes down from 12.8-12.9 to about 12.3-12.4 once the Key is in ON position. Once again the draw is happening only when I have the exciter wire connected to the ignition wire. Is this normal for the exciter wire to “steal” some voltage at KOEO?

Just for reference purposes, I am connecting the Pin #2 (ignition switch) wire and the Pin #14 (alternator exciter) wire using a resistor per Dakota Digital’s instructions when installing their gauge cluster. Not sure how much Dakota knows about this stuff.

I am thinking I have an issue with my set up because nobody else have had this issue with their voltage regulation voltage after installing their Dakota clusters. I keep going back to the exciter wire. I might wire my own wire this afternoon to see if it makes any difference.

Thanks
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post #47 of 70 Old 04-11-2019, 11:34 AM
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measure across the resistor

one lead on either side

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #48 of 70 Old 04-11-2019, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
measure across the resistor

one lead on either side
Already did that. The pin#2 (ignition switch wire) side shows battery voltage of 12.4-12.5V. The pin#14 side(exciter wire) which is after the resistor and it shows 1.45-1.50 Volts. Capped out at 1.45-1.5 no matter which resistor I throw at it.
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post #49 of 70 Old 04-11-2019, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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I will post the measurement across the resistor by itself when I get home.
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post #50 of 70 Old 04-11-2019, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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I think everything checks out as far as the resistors are concerned.... There has to be some reason I am unable to see any different voltage reading across different resistors? Is it possible I have a bad wiring on the light green/red wire exciter wire?

See attached pictures.

I hope Im doing it right. Dakota resistor registered .267 under 2k ohm reading setting seems to be about right.

The cluster bulb only shows .003 volt under 2k ohm reading setting while it would show steady voltage of 4.2-4.5 under 200 ohm reading setting. The resistors wont show steady reading under 200 ohm setting. I got plenty of reading to do.
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post #51 of 70 Old 04-11-2019, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Does this mean the gauge cluster bulb barely got any resistance at around 4.2-4.5 ohms?

Seems odd that it needs almost no resistance to function properly?
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post #52 of 70 Old 04-12-2019, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Today I decided to try wire up my own wire from the cluster to the alternator plug and i got the same results. Just to reassure myself that my wires are fine.

I put the cluster bulb back on because it has the correct resistance to make the regulator run properly. Dakota determined that I should have 20-25 ohm resistor instead so they are sending me some resistors today. I will put this to rest for now.

However, I ran into another issue today when I put my dakota cluster back in it would not power up. I found that my accessory feed wires are only getting 4 volts any time i am in ON position. I used the red/yellow accessory power wire as part of the dash harness.

I am unable to locate dash harness diagram so i can trace where those 12V accessory wires lead to. I also measured the other accessory wires and they all showed 4 volts when the battery voltage is normal. Ignition Switch? Ill have to test that out
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post #53 of 70 Old 04-12-2019, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCBeaver View Post
I think everything checks out as far as the resistors are concerned.... There has to be some reason I am unable to see any different voltage reading across different resistors? Is it possible I have a bad wiring on the light green/red wire exciter wire?

See attached pictures.

I hope Im doing it right. Dakota resistor registered .267 under 2k ohm reading setting seems to be about right.

The cluster bulb only shows .003 volt under 2k ohm reading setting while it would show steady voltage of 4.2-4.5 under 200 ohm reading setting. The resistors wont show steady reading under 200 ohm setting. I got plenty of reading to do.

I would like to know what the thunder you are doing there?

are you measuring resistance on a live circuit?

i think i asked for the voltage across the resistor?

that meter has way too many settings...damn

measure voltage drop, use the V setting

infact that whole section on ohms,,,,,,,, never use it, sharpie it out.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #54 of 70 Old 04-13-2019, 12:02 AM
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you realize i will have to question every measurement you gave me

i dont trust how you tested was correct.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #55 of 70 Old 04-13-2019, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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LOL I know how to measure voltage. I was just measuring the resistances in ohms to confirm them.

For the voltage readings I gave you earlier was on a live circuit. I dont think resistors register any voltage when it is on its own? I'll try that tomorrow. Either way, I am kind of past this point for now as I am waiting on more resistors (ones with much less resistance) from Dakota. Hopefully that will solve the problem. It should.

Now I am stuck with underpowered ACC wiring coming thru my dash. Only see steady 4V in all of my ACC wires.
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post #56 of 70 Old 04-13-2019, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCBeaver View Post
I think everything checks out as far as the resistors are concerned.... There has to be some reason I am unable to see any different voltage reading across different resistors? Is it possible I have a bad wiring on the light green/red wire exciter wire?

See attached pictures.

I hope Im doing it right. Dakota resistor registered .267 under 2k ohm reading setting seems to be about right.

The cluster bulb only shows .003 volt under 2k ohm reading setting while it would show steady voltage of 4.2-4.5 under 200 ohm reading setting. The resistors wont show steady reading under 200 ohm setting. I got plenty of reading to do.

I would like to know what the thunder you are doing there?

are you measuring resistance on a live circuit?

i think i asked for the voltage across the resistor?

that meter has way too many settings...damn

measure voltage drop, use the V setting

infact that whole section on ohms,,,,,,,, never use it, sharpie it out.
No the resistances in ohms were measured when resistors are standalone, not on a live circuit.

Voltage readings were measured on live circuit.
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post #57 of 70 Old 04-13-2019, 08:19 AM
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LOL I know how to measure voltage. I was just measuring the resistances in ohms to confirm them.

For the voltage readings I gave you earlier was on a live circuit. I dont think resistors register any voltage when it is on its own? I'll try that tomorrow. Either way, I am kind of past this point for now as I am waiting on more resistors (ones with much less resistance) from Dakota. Hopefully that will solve the problem. It should.

Now I am stuck with underpowered ACC wiring coming thru my dash. Only see steady 4V in all of my ACC wires.
Leave one lead on batt neg

take the other lead, and move it along the circuit in the direction of power

then you will find the resistance point

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #58 of 70 Old 04-13-2019, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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LOL I know how to measure voltage. I was just measuring the resistances in ohms to confirm them.

For the voltage readings I gave you earlier was on a live circuit. I dont think resistors register any voltage when it is on its own? I'll try that tomorrow. Either way, I am kind of past this point for now as I am waiting on more resistors (ones with much less resistance) from Dakota. Hopefully that will solve the problem. It should.

Now I am stuck with underpowered ACC wiring coming thru my dash. Only see steady 4V in all of my ACC wires.
Leave one lead on batt neg

take the other lead, and move it along the circuit in the direction of power

then you will find the resistance point
Yeah this is exactly what i need to do however I am trying to figure out where does those ACC wires lead to? It appears they go to the ignition? Do you have the diagram handy? I have not found one that shows where the ACC leads to from start to end.

Thanks
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post #59 of 70 Old 04-13-2019, 12:58 PM
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Yeah this is exactly what i need to do however I am trying to figure out where does those ACC wires lead to? It appears they go to the ignition? Do you have the diagram handy? I have not found one that shows where the ACC leads to from start to end.

Thanks
BBB INDUSTRIES

What year? I might have one

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post #60 of 70 Old 04-13-2019, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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1993 Mustang GT Hatchback with sunroof option. Thanks
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1993 Mustang GT Hatchback with sunroof option. Thanks
What type of pare tire?

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post #62 of 70 Old 04-13-2019, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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What type of pare tire?
Spare tire? What do you mean by what type of (s)pare tire?

Forgive my ignorance. Is there more than 1 type of spare tire for 93 mustangs? I have the spare tire cavity in the cargo area on the floor in front of the gas tank inside the vehicle.
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post #63 of 70 Old 04-13-2019, 05:41 PM
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YOU said sunroof?

So maybe we need to Id the brand of spare tire as well.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #64 of 70 Old 04-13-2019, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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YOU said sunroof?

So maybe we need to Id the brand of spare tire as well.
You like to be an a-hole, huh? I only mentioned sunroof because I thought it may make a difference in the wiring diagram, but if not then OK. SMFH.

Either way, I guess you dont have the diagram for the 12V input accessory wires coming into the gauge cluster connectors.

I tapped into radio's switched 12V for now so my cluster would power up. I will fix the voltage issue on the 12V input accessory wires once I am able to locate where those wires lead to.
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post #65 of 70 Old 04-13-2019, 07:18 PM
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You like to be an a-hole, huh? I only mentioned sunroof because I thought it may make a difference in the wiring diagram, but if not then OK. SMFH.

Either way, I guess you dont have the diagram for the 12V input accessory wires coming into the gauge cluster connectors.

I tapped into radio's switched 12V for now so my cluster would power up. I will fix the voltage issue on the 12V input accessory wires once I am able to locate where those wires lead to.
I have been working overtime since 5am, not close to home

so you will get them from me after i get to $%cking sit for a few minutes.

and where should i send them? to your sunroof?

and i asked what year, not what options.....

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post #66 of 70 Old 04-13-2019, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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I have been working overtime since 5am, not close to home

so you will get them from me after i get to $%cking sit for a few minutes.

and where should i send them? to your sunroof?
You can send it up your butthole. You must be a grumpy old man. Not sure what is your problem. You are brash as hell in all of your comments towards me the whole time when I only came here for some assistance and possibly some education from people who are more knowledgeable.

You could have simply said that you dont have the diagram until you get home. But nah you clearly wanted to feel superior and make fun of me with my limited knowledge on mustangs and related stuff. Once again, not sure what is your problem. If you cant help nicely, then I hope you can let others help me out. Judging by your post count and your presence around here, you probably own this forums, which is too bad.
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post #67 of 70 Old 04-13-2019, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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and i asked what year, not what options.....
I gave you the year, but you had to be mr. ass-hole.
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post #68 of 70 Old 04-13-2019, 08:09 PM
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oh really?

i am sure someone else will help you land the little airplane,,,

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post #69 of 70 Old 04-13-2019, 10:32 PM
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I had a similar issue with my car and it ended up being the green/red wire connection at the back of the gauge cluster. Once I found it, I replaced the faulty connector and it was good to go.
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post #70 of 70 Old 04-14-2019, 11:03 AM
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Here's the Amazon link to the one I got for $35. Works great. Clamp around the fan power wire and I can read it inrushes at about 36 amps then settles to 12 amps when running.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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