Can the in/out draw from loose connection of fan controller cause grief with tune? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 06-30-2016, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Can the in/out draw from loose connection of fan controller cause grief with tune?

Tuner is an hour away and wants me to bring it back...and I'm buried at work so I'm trying to rule stuff out on my limited time.

Here's the story: Had a Bama/SCT chip on the car & it really did fine...but I wanted the maximum performance from my mods so I hooked up with a tuner about an hour away who does Moates QuarterHorse tunes...Brought the car home & it ran much better, except I've had a worsening difficult start *not when cold* but after a typical cruise around up to temp. When sitting/cooling for about an hour or so it would take some effort to start it. Won't start key only...have to step on the gas.
part of the tune was to upsize my injectors & fuel pump so immediately I was suspecting fuel issues.

A couple of times I had (what I thought) a different issue pop up at the same time...Since my Mark VIII fan & DC control was kind of cycling erratically (only noticed after the work), which got even worse last night to the point the car started heating up. Took it home & parked in the garage. Checked the connections on the controller & found the "input" power stud nut a bit loose. I read a year ago how those studs can't tolerate too much torque so I probably was a little hesitant to tighten too much. I tightened the 1/4" nut up and I started the car, turned the a/c on & saw that the fan quickly went to 50% like it's supposed to when the compressor is on...the fan is working correctly now. BTW I did purchase the color diode indicator from Brian Baskim which is VERY helpful to watch from the driver's seat.

Finally my question: Even though the Mark VIII fan & controller is not "controlled" by the A9P Computer, would this erratic power connection to the fan controller which was drawing this huge load change on/off "appear" as some tune issue, caused by the large fluctuating electrical load?

I'm hoping yes. I will test run it tonight after work.


1991 LX Convertible

GT40 Heads Ported/Milled, Crane 1.7's, TMoss Intake, Rawls Cam, 70mm TB & 76mm maf, Holly 30# & Moates QH, Wide Ratio AOD/SPT-r VB & 3.73's, JBA shorty, O/R X-pipe, DynoMax VT, MaxMo SFC's/Strut/K Braces/CC Plates/RLCA's/PHB, Bilstein HD,& Eibach Pro-Kit 270rwhp/307tq
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post #2 of 8 Old 06-30-2016, 11:53 AM
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Unless you have other wiring issues, the intermittent fan load would have nothing to do with what you describe.



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89 LX. 363, single turbo, Super Vic EFI, TFS high port heads by TEA, solid roller, glide. Holley HP EFI. (exact combo varies)
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post #3 of 8 Old 06-30-2016, 07:04 PM
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You need to scale your starting pulse by the difference in injector size. What inj. Do you have now?
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post #4 of 8 Old 06-30-2016, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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You need to scale your starting pulse by the difference in injector size. What inj. Do you have now?
Holley 30#'s

1991 LX Convertible

GT40 Heads Ported/Milled, Crane 1.7's, TMoss Intake, Rawls Cam, 70mm TB & 76mm maf, Holly 30# & Moates QH, Wide Ratio AOD/SPT-r VB & 3.73's, JBA shorty, O/R X-pipe, DynoMax VT, MaxMo SFC's/Strut/K Braces/CC Plates/RLCA's/PHB, Bilstein HD,& Eibach Pro-Kit 270rwhp/307tq
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post #5 of 8 Old 07-02-2016, 10:16 AM
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what is the symptom?

long crank, requiring WOT fuel shutoff during this crank?

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #6 of 8 Old 07-02-2016, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
what is the symptom?

long crank, requiring WOT fuel shutoff during this crank?
Brought the car home & it ran much better, except I've had a worsening difficult start *not when cold* but after a typical cruise around up to temp. When sitting/cooling for about an hour or so it would take some effort to start it. Won't start key only...have to step on the gas.
part of the tune was to upsize my injectors & fuel pump so immediately I was suspecting fuel issues.

I can get through the hard start by giving it some accelerator (not wot)... I could accept the diagnosis being a heat soaked starter, although never did it before tune and it's a 1 year old high torque mini starter that has worked flawless.

The loosening fan control wire was the reason for the erratic fan operation and overheating...unrelated to the warmed up long crank start. Today is my first day off to really check into it with no distractions.

Thanks for learnin' me that WOT shuts off fuel...I'll see if that changes recovery time.

1991 LX Convertible

GT40 Heads Ported/Milled, Crane 1.7's, TMoss Intake, Rawls Cam, 70mm TB & 76mm maf, Holly 30# & Moates QH, Wide Ratio AOD/SPT-r VB & 3.73's, JBA shorty, O/R X-pipe, DynoMax VT, MaxMo SFC's/Strut/K Braces/CC Plates/RLCA's/PHB, Bilstein HD,& Eibach Pro-Kit 270rwhp/307tq
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-02-2016, 02:38 PM
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its not the starter or start circuit

if you have to STEP on the AIR pedal............EFI, NO gas pedal

then it is clear.....................you do NOT have enough air in these conditions

The tuner must command more ISC or IAC air in crank.........simple, but takes awhile to get after many data logs.........
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89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #8 of 8 Old 09-06-2016, 03:25 PM
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You need to scale the cranking PW by the difference in injector size. PW should be roughly 35% of what it is currently. Reason you have to give it gas it to put it into flood clear mode. You're flooding it during cranking, that's why it won't start.
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