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post #1 of 36 Old 02-13-2016, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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91 gt issue

not sure if this goes here

I picked up this 91 gt for parts car id like to hear the engine before I pull it apart

I'm not getting signal to fuel pump relay from the ecm an my code reader isn't reading the ecm is even there the fuse links look good idk were to check next


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post #2 of 36 Old 02-13-2016, 07:28 PM
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what signal are you looking for?


89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #3 of 36 Old 02-13-2016, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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I was check to see if the ecm was grounding while cranking but I was getting nothing while cranking

if I jump the fuel pump directly at the relay plug I get 45 psi to the injectors got nothing while cranking after I got the pump to prim I don't think the injectors were spraying the Schrader valve gauge the PO had on there did move at all while cranking

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post #4 of 36 Old 02-13-2016, 09:54 PM
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will it prime in run?

for the pump to run, there must be an rpm signal on the PIP, from the ICM

it is the cam/crank signal.

is there spark?

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #5 of 36 Old 02-13-2016, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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ok this is what I got I have constant power then a switched power at the relay pump will not prim with key if I jump from the constant power to the fuel pump it'll prim

ive also tried swapping relays from my running car with no luck

I picked the car up for $2500 guy I got it from showed me a book 3" thick of paper work on engine an trans

port / polished edelbrock heads roller rockers x303 cam I think pistons are trw flat tops with flycut trick flow intake has bbk 75mm TB egr plate 80lbs injectors with calibrated 80mm maf

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post #6 of 36 Old 02-14-2016, 12:23 AM
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the ECM supplies the ground for the control of the relay

all you have to do is put a test from batt + to the ground, turn the key to run, does the light come on?

no? then no prime

NOW, make sure we are on the same page

the prime ONLY happens in run, NOT crank.

if you have the prime in run, but no pump in crank you go straight to the ecm input like I said.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #7 of 36 Old 02-14-2016, 12:47 AM Thread Starter
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I had a test light from constant power at the relay an the negative side to the signal/ground light never came on

when I turn the key to on position I can hear what sounds like a relay from pass side of the dash I hear it click on couple seconds then sound like it clicks off

kinda had the same issue with my 89 gt when I first got it but that one was PO put a fusible link hooked up to a ground instead of starting solenoid

the PO of my 91 i just got was trying to get it going has a new 190lph pump in the tank he pulled the distributor to prime the oil system but that was as fare as he got car sat for 3 or 4 yrs

i know the fuel pump only primes for 3 to 4 seconds when turned to run position

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post #8 of 36 Old 02-14-2016, 10:26 AM
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take the test light from BATTERY POSITIVE

TO the ground side of the fuel pump relay COIL, TURN THE KEY TO RUN

Does the light come on?

do the tests one step at a time like I suggest, unless you are 100% confident in what you are looking for.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #9 of 36 Old 02-14-2016, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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ok did the positive on the battery an the other on the ecm ground at the relay as soon as I plugged it in the test light came on even before I turned the key it dimmed a bit while cranking but stayed on solidly is that a bad sign of wiring issue

I tried swapping the relay above the ecm same click ive been hearing

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post #10 of 36 Old 02-14-2016, 07:33 PM
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that is bad, and the pump should be running continuous, is it?

the click from the eec relay, normal


89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #11 of 36 Old 02-14-2016, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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only time the pump will run is if I jump it at the relay plug

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post #12 of 36 Old 02-14-2016, 08:05 PM
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jump what ...............?the power or ground

you are not describing or testing properly

the relay should have power on both the line and control, key in RUN

the ECM supplies the ground to allow the power through to the pump~1second

YOU said you had a ground on the control side, RIGHT, with the test light.

therefore the pump should have come on,

you say it doesn't, you are not testing correctly or telling me correctly what you are testing.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #13 of 36 Old 02-14-2016, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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there is 2 big wires an 2 small wires at the relay if I jump the 2 big wires the pump runs now when I did the positive battery to either small wire with out touching the key the light comes on

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post #14 of 36 Old 02-14-2016, 11:28 PM
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when the light comes on, that means there is a constant ground.

either the ecm is hooped, or you have a short to ground.

now go to batt negative with the test light

touch the two small wires, and turn the key to run, what does the light do?

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #15 of 36 Old 02-14-2016, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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ok just reread it I miss read it the first time one of the small wires gets power when ignition switch is turned

I thought I read your post as I test the 2 small wires together with the test light I tried that didn't light up at all

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post #16 of 36 Old 02-15-2016, 01:01 AM
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does the light come on when touching either small wire?

I cannot understand your answer, keep it simple, yes or no.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #17 of 36 Old 02-15-2016, 02:10 AM Thread Starter
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yes one of the small wires the one closest to the big wires

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post #18 of 36 Old 02-15-2016, 09:29 AM
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that concludes it,

you have a power and a ground, for both control wires

if this is true, the coil of the relay is open, you can ohm the coil or do a volt drop across the coil

remove the relay, and give a power and ground to the coil pins, you should hear a click, and the line contacts should close.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #19 of 36 Old 02-15-2016, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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ive tried the relay out of my running car in this 91 wouldn't do anything

while I was at it I plugged the relay that was in the 91 in my 89 an fuel pump in my 89 ran like normal

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post #20 of 36 Old 02-15-2016, 07:12 PM
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then what you told me regarding the test, or the way you tested, was incorrect

do you want to start at the beginning?

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #21 of 36 Old 02-15-2016, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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id did it the way u said to test it

the ground signal wire from the ecm seams to have ground no matter what doesn't matter if I turn the key or not

the next small wire gets power when I turn the key

then the constant power bigger wire

then the other bigger wire that goes to the inertia switch

should I check what voltage I'm getting at the relay

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post #22 of 36 Old 02-15-2016, 09:44 PM
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is the inertia switch closed??

I assumed you checked that.

and you should NOT be getting a constant ground

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #23 of 36 Old 02-15-2016, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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ya I checked the inertia switch

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post #24 of 36 Old 02-15-2016, 11:39 PM
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you say you have power to control side of relay

and you say you have a constant ground to the control side of the relay

and you say the relay will not close to allow the pump to come on.

I am going to say it is NOT possible, as you said the relay works on another car.

So, without question, you are not doing the testing correctly

that is the only possible reason...there is no other

I think you are finding the ground, through the wrong side of the relay, the fuel pump side, as that is the ONLY constant ground, in this entire circuit.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #25 of 36 Old 02-16-2016, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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all I know is I did the ecm ground thing like you said to do it an its getting constant ground my test light dimed while cranking but never blinked fluttered

but the other thing that has been bugging me is my code reader wont read anything from the ecm

when I turn the key to run I get all the normal lights on the dash the check engine light comes on for 3 to 4 seconds

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post #26 of 36 Old 02-16-2016, 09:28 AM
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I am saying is you were not on the ecm ground, but the load side of the fuel pump on the relay.

so you were trying to power the pump with your test light, that is why it went very dim.

maybe take pics of the tests you are doing.

Like I said, you cannot have what you describe, it is electrically impossible.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #27 of 36 Old 02-16-2016, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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there is only 2 wires that are not getting power one big wire an one small wire

the big wire if I put positive to it the pump primes so that leaves that one small wire that I tested the way you told me to test it

so its either the ecm is putting out power to the relay or could have a short some were

I'm not here to rub ppl the wrong way I'm here to get direction so I can try getting this to run so I know if engine ok before I drop the engine into my 89

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post #28 of 36 Old 02-16-2016, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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ok

prong 1 fuel pump control (this would be the ecm ground correct ? )

prong 2 power from eec power relay (my switched power wire )

prong 3 fuel pump output (the wire I put power to an get the pump to prime )

prong 4 ignition fused power (my constant power )

found this on (easyautodiagnostic.com) how to test green ford fuel pump relay

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post #29 of 36 Old 02-16-2016, 10:27 PM
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post a link

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #30 of 36 Old 02-16-2016, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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not sure if I got the pic thing here figured out should be a pic of how they number the plug/relay

idk how to post a link to website
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post #31 of 36 Old 02-17-2016, 10:12 PM
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here ya go the website you were wanting to post

link : Part 1 -Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L Index of Articles

88 hatch 427 Dart FordStrokers,Tmoss ported SuperVic, Hi-Port 225's , Freezy custom cam, Pro-M engine management system with cnp,
Aero fuel pump wiring, alt upgraded wiring, Flex-a-Lite 52185 radiator/fan combo, T56 Magnum kit , built 8.8 rear-end 3:73 with 31 spline axles welded 03 Cobra center section.
might be ready to dyno and run it by next summer of 2017,LoL I hope!!
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post #32 of 36 Old 02-17-2016, 10:21 PM
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ready?

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #33 of 36 Old 02-17-2016, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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do they have the right wires marked

there site doesn't say what to do if the light stay's on when key is turned off when checking ecm ground

but its raining right now so cant mess with it till it stops

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post #34 of 36 Old 02-19-2016, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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rain is suppose to clear up tomorrow so ill be able to mess with the mustang

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post #35 of 36 Old 02-23-2016, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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ok did some messing around with it the msd 6a box didn't seam to be working so I pulled it out hooked up the factory plug to the coil its now showing rpm while cranking

then the clutch switch died on me so it stopped cranking till I bypassed it got it to crank over but then I noticed the ecm relay wasn't clicking I bumped the ignition switch wiring with my knee an the ecm relay clicked couple times so I'm thinking the issue is in that ignition switch plug

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