Looking to change from a PMS to something else - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 11-22-2015, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Question Looking to change from a PMS to something else

Currently running a series 2 PMS for over 10 years now, no problems. Car starts and idle's perfect hot or cold, no idle surge at all. I know the PMS (especially the series 1/2) is dated.

I've been thinking of upgrading to the series 4 PMS but also looking at the holley efi and the pro m efi. I am not computer savvy and want something thats simple like the PMS. Megasquirt or stuff like that is out. The set up is a n/a 11:1 347 and makes around 400 to the tire. The cam is a little aggressive and only makes 8-9" of vacuum at idle.

What would you do and why?


92 Mustang LX 347 11:1
TEA 205cc Twisted Wedge, FTI cam, Ported Victor 5.0, 5 lug disc conversion, ROH ZS wheels, Anderson PMS, 4.30
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post #2 of 11 Old 11-22-2015, 11:22 AM
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If everything is perfect, why change anything?


1989 LX 5.0 - 333 Mexican block, Eagle 4340 neutral3.25" crank, Probe SRS 9cc dome .040 psitons AFR 185 Comp heads, FTI HR cam 239/244 613/613, Edelbrock Victor 5.0, 90mm TB, BBK 1 3/4, C4 and 4500 Circle D converter, 4.10 gears

2012 GT/CS 5.0 - Yellow Blaze Tri-Coat metalic, A6, HID.
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post #3 of 11 Old 11-22-2015, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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I guess I should have also said, what is there to really gain by going with a better eec unit if everything is running pretty good? Maybe better gas mileage and part throttle drivability? I was having a hard time dialing in the mid throttle a/f.
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post #4 of 11 Old 11-22-2015, 04:35 PM
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I think the Holley would could help drivability. I know my car idles and drives better than it ever did with a tweecer or megasquirt. Hard to quantify the value of drivability but if it allows you to enjoy and drive the car more than the current setup then maybe the $1600 price tag is worth it. You can always sell of your current setup to recover a few hundred.

1989 LX 5.0 - 333 Mexican block, Eagle 4340 neutral3.25" crank, Probe SRS 9cc dome .040 psitons AFR 185 Comp heads, FTI HR cam 239/244 613/613, Edelbrock Victor 5.0, 90mm TB, BBK 1 3/4, C4 and 4500 Circle D converter, 4.10 gears

2012 GT/CS 5.0 - Yellow Blaze Tri-Coat metalic, A6, HID.
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post #5 of 11 Old 11-23-2015, 05:32 AM
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I agree with "Just Chuck" statement, if everything is running well why change. You mentioned gas mileage and better part throttle drivability were things you were looking for. If it's a street car, part throttle drivability is everything. What part throttle issues are you having with your current setup?

Here's the caveat, people don't spend money on an EMS if their current setup is running well. There is usually that one or a few things that they don't like and they feel an EMS will help correct it. An EMS is only as good as the sum of parts you're using, the overall condition of sum parts, and the person tuning it.

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post #6 of 11 Old 11-23-2015, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Couple of part throttle issues that always annoyed me.

1) When it's cold outside sometimes the o2 sensors always read 0 on the pms screen and in turn the car cruises lean. Sometimes they end up fixing themselves sometimes shutting the car off and restarting cures it.

2) Lets say i'm going through the gears hard but not full throttle maybe 1/2 throttle, the a/f is pretty rich in some spots and lean in others. Its a pain to dial in the part throttle loads. You have low load, medium load and high load. It's the low and medium I have trouble dialing in.

My cruising a/f is fine. The car drives fine aside from what I listed and it starts & idles perfect in all conditions.

Also in the low and medium loads, trying to figure out how to dial in a timing curve.
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post #7 of 11 Old 11-24-2015, 10:36 AM
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have you searched stangtuning?

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post #8 of 11 Old 12-06-2015, 01:59 AM
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why not just stick with the stock ecu and toss a QuarterHorse on it

QH = $250

all others $1,000+

I think the answer is clear
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post #9 of 11 Old 12-14-2015, 11:14 AM
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I have run the QH for a few years now and would never look back. IN fact, for a time I had the QH AND a PMS hooked up, and I liked being able to see the outputs on the PMS handheld when I did it that way. My car even seemed to idle better with the PMS hooked up in concert with the QH, go figure.

Another vote for the QH suggestion.

Scott

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post #10 of 11 Old 12-14-2015, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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How's the learning curve on the QH?

Fyi, stangtuning is no more.


92 Mustang LX 347 11:1
TEA 205cc Twisted Wedge, FTI cam, Ported Victor 5.0, 5 lug disc conversion, ROH ZS wheels, Anderson PMS, 4.30
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post #11 of 11 Old 12-16-2015, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grn92LX View Post
How's the learning curve on the QH?

Fyi, stangtuning is no more.
I've had the luxury of 5+ years of learning it, so it has been steep at times. There's a lot of things I haven't yet wrapped my head around but I was able to get he car running pretty good over the last couple years. The support is great at EECTuning.org, and also at "Decipha's" site (he is in this thread). Definitely the best purchase I've made for the car. It's no PMS (they call that dummy proof) but you don't need a degree in engineering either.

Scott

88 Supercharged LX Coupe
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