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post #1 of 32 Old 08-12-2013, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Aftermarket ECU's with OBD-II

Anyone know if there are any aftermarket ECU's currently providing decent OBD-II support? I need this to run a supercharged 1990 5.0.

Thanks.


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post #2 of 32 Old 08-12-2013, 02:48 PM
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Why not run a later Mustang EEC-V ECU?

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post #3 of 32 Old 08-13-2013, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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I'd actually prefer that and asked in the EEC sub-forum, but haven't found out anything yet. Do you know which one(s) would work? The newer the better as I'd get better OBD-II support. Thanks.

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- Fox coupe with 4.6 DOHC project in progress.


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post #4 of 32 Old 08-13-2013, 02:34 PM
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I am sure it can work, but I am not sure of what specific years do and don't work. I think the important considerations would be anti-theft and EEC connector shape. There might be a few sensors or sensor plugs that need to be swapped as well. You might try asking at EECTuning.org • Index page.

Edit:
Checked a couple of things. I think (but don't KNOW) that up through 2004 will work. Best bet is to grab the engine bay and dash harness and all sensors from a donor vehicle. I think you might want to keep your dash wiring for the simpler older gauges, unless you moved the gauges over from the newer car as well.

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post #5 of 32 Old 08-13-2013, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
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I expect I'll get a proper custom tuner to disable PATS, tune it, etc. The sensors and corresponding connectors are what I'm most unsure of. The 5.0 (with EEC-IV A9L currently) is in a kitcar, so I'm not worried about dash harness etc -- just getting the engine running properly is all I need. I'm supposed to have an EEC-V harness somwhere in a box, so I need to find it and compare connectors. But I expect the EEC-V would prob work better if I change some sensors to what the EEC-V is calibrated for (like BAP, etc), so maybe I shouldn't be too concerned about. Much investigation to do. Thanks again.

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- Fox coupe with 4.6 DOHC project in progress.


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post #6 of 32 Old 08-13-2013, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Oh, and I forgot one big thing that I'm unsure of -- switching from a distributor-based system to distributorless.

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post #7 of 32 Old 08-14-2013, 10:49 AM
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Oh, and I forgot one big thing that I'm unsure of -- switching from a distributor-based system to distributorless.
You might be able to get the cam synchro, balancer ring, and crank pickup from a later Explorer 5.0.
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post #8 of 32 Old 08-15-2013, 02:10 PM
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I think you may be approaching this wrong. I think you may be better off saying I have combo 1, 2, 3 and I need an ECU with X, Y, and Z functionality to run it the way I want to. OBD, as the name implies is diagnostics. Depending on what the OEM has to do to comply with the OBD regs, some new functionality/sensors come along when OBD is implemented. But most people turn a lot of the OBD monitors off when they do a custom tune, not add more.

Diagnostics can be very time consuming to get working right and then what fault mitigation does the ECU do... For OEMs, doing diagnostics can sometimes be worse than doing the base tune.
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post #9 of 32 Old 08-15-2013, 02:41 PM
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Anyone know if there are any aftermarket ECU's currently providing decent OBD-II support? I need this to run a supercharged 1990 5.0.

Thanks.
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post #10 of 32 Old 08-15-2013, 03:22 PM
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What do you want OBD for?


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post #11 of 32 Old 08-16-2013, 10:12 PM
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What do you want OBD for?
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post #12 of 32 Old 08-17-2013, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, I've been reading this and other info I've found, and it seems doable, BUT with non-insignificant effort. I was not thing I'd have to start retrofitting crank timing wheels, etc. And I really don't have the time for this nowadays.

The intent is to have an OBD-II vehicle for on-going real-world testing of products I'm developing. I'm planning to sell my DD soon and none of my other cars have OBD-II.

Easier than this would be to just run the EEC-V on a bench with faked sensors. I do have OBD-II emulators for bench testing, but real world long-term testing has some benefits. Instead I'm going to just run these products on other people's cars, and set it up to continuously log data in case I need to go investigate any anomaly.

Thanks!

- Shelby Cobra kitcar, 5.0 supercharged.
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post #13 of 32 Old 10-21-2013, 11:57 PM
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It's not actually that bad. I believe the EEC-V to get is out of a '96-97 Crown Vic/Grand Marquis/Mustang/Thunderbird/Cougar with a V8. The desired strategy is CDAN4 as SailorBob has hacked the whole definition pretty thoroughly. This EEC supports EDIS8 and electronically controlled transmission out of the box, including flash EEPROM support and OBD-II so you can run all those fancy bluetooth based Android gadgets for datalogging. The injector connectors are still EV1 so that simplifies things a bit too.

$120 got me 3 ECU harnesses, 1 main injector harness, and 2 EEC-V computers from the local junkyards. I've benchtested and mine's going in my classic Mustang!

'89 5.0L LX hatch: all 90mm 2.2L Blowzilla Dart Iron Eagle 306 @ 8.4:1, ported Vic Jr heads, TMoss ported GT40 lower, Deka 80# injectors, EDIS8, GUFB-A9L2-Moates tuned, Tremec 3550, 3.31 gears w/31-spline TruTrac
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post #14 of 32 Old 10-25-2013, 09:35 PM
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Okay, I've been reading this and other info I've found, and it seems doable, BUT with non-insignificant effort. I was not thing I'd have to start retrofitting crank timing wheels, etc. And I really don't have the time for this nowadays.

The intent is to have an OBD-II vehicle for on-going real-world testing of products I'm developing. I'm planning to sell my DD soon and none of my other cars have OBD-II.

Easier than this would be to just run the EEC-V on a bench with faked sensors. I do have OBD-II emulators for bench testing, but real world long-term testing has some benefits. Instead I'm going to just run these products on other people's cars, and set it up to continuously log data in case I need to go investigate any anomaly...
It really depends on your budget:
Pro-M -- $2200
MegaSquirt -- $900 for PnP (no OBD-II, but not really necessary)
Even looks like an EEC-IV
Laptop interface is RS-232, but USB converters are available.

EEC-V -- not impossible, if you are talented & have the time. If you count man-hours spent, probably in excess of $10k.

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post #15 of 32 Old 10-26-2013, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown88GT View Post
It really depends on your budget:
Pro-M -- $2200
MegaSquirt -- $900 for PnP (no OBD-II, but not really necessary)
Even looks like an EEC-IV
Laptop interface is RS-232, but USB converters are available.

EEC-V -- not impossible, if you are talented & have the time. If you count man-hours spent, probably in excess of $10k.
If you have half a brain, which is a must for installing or updating any EFI system, using an existing Ford computer and harness is definitely the cheapest route. No idea where you're getting $10K from. I'm a computer engineer and I wouldn't pay anyone $10K to install a harness on anything! Local mechanics gave me up to date schematics for my donor vehicle and $200 has me all set with the harness, computer, and sensors I need to perform a conversion. This is my 4th EEC conversion and I do this as a hobby.

'89 5.0L LX hatch: all 90mm 2.2L Blowzilla Dart Iron Eagle 306 @ 8.4:1, ported Vic Jr heads, TMoss ported GT40 lower, Deka 80# injectors, EDIS8, GUFB-A9L2-Moates tuned, Tremec 3550, 3.31 gears w/31-spline TruTrac
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post #16 of 32 Old 10-27-2013, 02:15 PM
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If you absolutely must have OBD data

ProM EFI's hacked Ford ecu may be the best bet, because it is based on an OEM ecu.

After that, Link's new G4+ and some ViPec models offer some OBD data. Whether it is as complete as an OEM ecu, I dont know.

ProEFI also offers some too

Fault Management » ProEFI

Depends what you're asking of it really.

I'm sure others will follow in time.

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post #17 of 32 Old 10-27-2013, 02:25 PM
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But why would you shell out all that money for an aftermarket ECM when an OEM EEC is completely programmable, takes live updates, and is obviously proven for OBD?
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post #18 of 32 Old 10-27-2013, 07:36 PM
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...Local mechanics gave me up to date schematics for my donor vehicle and $200 has me all set with the harness, computer, and sensors I need to perform a conversion. This is my 4th EEC conversion and I do this as a hobby.
1. How many hours have you spent doing the conversion? I understand that "hobby hours" don't count, but here's only so many free hours in a week.
2. I assume you re-pinned the 104-pin EEC-V connector from the 60-pin EEC-V connector?
3. Or did you use an EEC-V harness to replace the EEC-IV harness?

In my situation, the '88 is in too good of a condition to start ripping out a perfectly good harness. It would be easier to return to the original 19lb injectors & the 55mm Ford MAF, which used to be in there. This car will never be raced by me.

My issue is confined to the Open Loop strategy of the EEC-IV.

All things considered, the Megasquirt is probably the better option for EEC-IV replacement. The PnP version is the most expensive, but there are less costly ones that are not plug-n-play.

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post #19 of 32 Old 10-27-2013, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown88GT View Post
1. How many hours have you spent doing the conversion? I understand that "hobby hours" don't count, but here's only so many free hours in a week.
2. I assume you re-pinned the 104-pin EEC-V connector from the 60-pin EEC-V connector?
3. Or did you use an EEC-V harness to replace the EEC-IV harness?

In my situation, the '88 is in too good of a condition to start ripping out a perfectly good harness. It would be easier to return to the original 19lb injectors & the 55mm Ford MAF, which used to be in there. This car will never be raced by me.

My issue is confined to the Open Loop strategy of the EEC-IV.

All things considered, the Megasquirt is probably the better option for EEC-IV replacement. The PnP version is the most expensive, but there are less costly ones that are not plug-n-play.
1. I've never timed a conversion and all of the vehicles I've performed a conversion on were classic cars/trucks, so I think it took a bit longer than it would if were updating a Fox to an EEC-V, but I do recall spending 2 solid weeks on upgrading my '79 Bronco from carb to SEFI-MAF-EDIS8. That included some serious machine work for the 36-1 trigger wheel, cam sync sensor, modification of an EEC-IV harness (lengths, etc.), and major mods to the intake to fit a Windsor intake on a Cleveland. That also included the base tune and fabrication of brackets, etc.

I'm not an opponent of Megasquirt at all, in fact I have friends that are running that and VEMS, but it's pretty much only because they find the OEM Ford stuff very un-user friendly. I think being an engineer and working with stuff like this on a daily basis has desensitized me from how cryptic all of it really is - there's no user manual for getting an OEM system retrofitted. Basically, if you're technically minded then an OEM retrofit may make sense, otherwise one of the aftermarket options is worth the money spent since you get customer support and a manual.

2 and 3. I'm using the wiring from a '96 Crown Vic, which is EEC-V to begin with. Now that being said, I had to de-pin the 104-pin connector in order to stuff it through the firewall grommet! It was rather unpleasant and I'd rather not remember what happened. It was only accomplished by the wife leaving me alone for a few hours, providing me with copious amounts of beer, and loud death metal jamming in the background.

I completely understand not wanting to tear out an engine harness that's in perfectly good working order. I don't know exactly when the EECs became OBD-II compliant, but if the SN95 ('94-95 Mustang) EECs work then you have one other option. This little gem was provided by Decipha: CBAZA swap / Ford / EFIDynoTuning.

That might get you what you need, but I'm not sure of the OBD-II compliance. I think the CBAZA strategy is OBD-II, but I'm not 100% sure.

You mentioned you're running OL. You can simply flip a bit in BE on any EEC strategy to disable the adaptives and closed loop control (ie., run in open loop). In any case, it comes down to how much time you want to spend dicking around with wiring and Googling vs paying a lot more money and getting a PnP package, as you suggested.

'89 5.0L LX hatch: all 90mm 2.2L Blowzilla Dart Iron Eagle 306 @ 8.4:1, ported Vic Jr heads, TMoss ported GT40 lower, Deka 80# injectors, EDIS8, GUFB-A9L2-Moates tuned, Tremec 3550, 3.31 gears w/31-spline TruTrac
'66 GT 2+2 Fastback: carb'd 289, Canfield heads - EFI transformation pending

'71 Mach 1: totaled - R.I.P.

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post #20 of 32 Old 10-28-2013, 10:20 PM
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....
I'm not an opponent of Megasquirt...

I completely understand not wanting to tear out an engine harness that's in perfectly good working order. I don't know exactly when the EECs became OBD-II compliant, but if the SN95 ('94-95 Mustang) EECs work then you have one other option. This little gem was provided by Decipha: CBAZA swap / Ford / EFIDynoTuning.

That might get you what you need, but I'm not sure of the OBD-II compliance. I think the CBAZA strategy is OBD-II, but I'm not 100% sure.

You mentioned you're running OL. You can simply flip a bit in BE on any EEC strategy to disable the adaptives and closed loop control (ie., run in open loop). In any case, it comes down to how much time you want to spend dicking around with wiring and Googling vs paying a lot more money and getting a PnP package, as you suggested.
Thanks for the info. I'm a retired EE & used to do this stuff for a living, mostly DoD R&D. One company was attempting to use a Chrysler engine computer as a rocket engine controller, since it can only be used 1 time. It wasn't my project & AFAIK, it was never successful.

I've Googled & most of the info is bogus and/or riddled with errors.

Ford has a habit of making a mess of transition year vehicles. I had a 1970-1/2 6-cyl Ford Falcon, but from all appearances, it was a Torino with Falcon emblems on the quarter panels. Always fun going to parts store for 1970-1/2, which was printed on the owner's manual.

US Gov't mandated 1996 as the first year for OBD-II in all vehicles sold in US. SN-95 was a transition, so could be a mix. I actually have a set of Ford Motorsport ceramic coated headers I got used from a guy at last job who had a SN-95. Only difference, had port on passenger side header for EGR, not needed on Fox plumbing. Plugged the port with a SS plug.

CMAZA indicates '94-'95 is EEC-IV, but does not indicate OBD-II capability.
Googling Ford TM40
http://oldfuelinjection.com/files/A9...0_showdown.pdf

Now Google SN95 & OBD-II
Looks like another Ford Cluster-F. Multiple ports, non-functional.

You hear good & bad about everything, have to sort it all out. You never hear about the MegaSquirt successes, only the failures.

No, I'm not running OL all the time. The A9L is in full control. I am making an educated assumption based on the fact that it idles like crap until the engine warms to a certain point. Then it's like a switch was thrown & it idles fine. Same results on every cold start.

The fuel maps are not so good for cold & warm running. Cold start fires right up & then wants to die. If I could just throw a switch at cold start, something like you had to do on an old manual choke carb. I don't need OBD-II for the '88. I have an OBD-I code reader which works great; better than trying to figure out flashing lights. There are no bad codes.

I always wonder, how did they made all this stuff work 20 years ago, before tuning, dynos & computers?

1988 GT, 57k mi, Orig Owner
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post #21 of 32 Old 10-29-2013, 07:52 AM
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Lol you gotta go back more than 20 years to avoid computers. Then they used carbs.

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post #22 of 32 Old 10-29-2013, 11:45 AM
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No, I'm not running OL all the time. The A9L is in full control. I am making an educated assumption based on the fact that it idles like crap until the engine warms to a certain point. Then it's like a switch was thrown & it idles fine. Same results on every cold start.

The fuel maps are not so good for cold & warm running. Cold start fires right up & then wants to die. If I could just throw a switch at cold start, something like you had to do on an old manual choke carb. I don't need OBD-II for the '88. I have an OBD-I code reader which works great; better than trying to figure out flashing lights. There are no bad codes.

I always wonder, how did they made all this stuff work 20 years ago, before tuning, dynos & computers?
What injectors do you have? It sounds like your fuel mixture is off until the O2s are activated and closed loop starts. The most common reasons I know are mismatched injectors to the computer or a vacuum leak.
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post #23 of 32 Old 10-29-2013, 04:58 PM
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Lol you gotta go back more than 20 years to avoid computers. Then they used carbs.
Yes, but nobody modified them (the computers).
Computer "modifiers" were mostly limited to:
1. Ford Motorsports (now Ford Racing) sold an RPM Extender &
2. Ford MAF Conversion Kit (for '86-'88's, Calif. '88's were MAF)
3. C&L had their MAF for use with larger injectors. Cheryl & Lee are still doing these. Lee still does flow testing for NASA, probably forgotten more than most know. (LOL) Real nice people.

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1. What injectors do you have?
2. It sounds like your fuel mixture is off until the O2s are activated and closed loop starts.
3. The most common reasons I know are mismatched injectors to the computer or...
4. ...a vacuum leak.
1. Ford Racing 30lb injectors
2. That's what I've been saying; we agree.
3. C&L 76mm MAF w/green calibration tube (specifically specified by C&L for this particular application). 12" of straight pipe before the MAF, as specified.
4. Last week:
4a. found some broken brand new vacuum tee connectors (replaced).
4b. small vacuum leaks in FPR adjuster & BOV adjuster (threads sealed).
Today: Vacuum = 18-20inHg

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post #24 of 32 Old 10-29-2013, 05:03 PM
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I tried really hard to make a few C&L meters work, including the 76mm housing with the green tube for 42# injectors, but never got it to idle well. I finally found a good deal on a 90mm LMAF and with the stock calibration have never had an issue with a pretty wild combination.

'89 5.0L LX hatch: all 90mm 2.2L Blowzilla Dart Iron Eagle 306 @ 8.4:1, ported Vic Jr heads, TMoss ported GT40 lower, Deka 80# injectors, EDIS8, GUFB-A9L2-Moates tuned, Tremec 3550, 3.31 gears w/31-spline TruTrac
'66 GT 2+2 Fastback: carb'd 289, Canfield heads - EFI transformation pending

'71 Mach 1: totaled - R.I.P.
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1. Ford Racing 30lb injectors
2. That's what I've been saying; we agree.
3. C&L 76mm MAF w/green calibration tube (specifically specified by C&L for this particular application). 12" of straight pipe before the MAF, as specified.
4. Last week:
4a. found some broken brand new vacuum tee connectors (replaced).
4b. small vacuum leaks in FPR adjuster & BOV adjuster (threads sealed).
Today: Vacuum = 18-20inHg
Hmm. Well, I am sure that eliminating the vacuum leaks will help, since more air will be forced through the MAF, instead of sneaking in unmetered. If the rough running in open loop persists after that, you could experiment with the next largest and next smallest sampling tubes. But it "should" work with the one you have.

If you need to go farther than that, the best option is to get a piggyback chip or Quarterhorse.
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Hmm. Well, I am sure that eliminating the vacuum leaks will help, since more air will be forced through the MAF, instead of sneaking in unmetered. If the rough running in open loop persists after that, you could experiment with the next largest and next smallest sampling tubes. But it "should" work with the one you have.

If you need to go farther than that, the best option is to get a piggyback chip or Quarterhorse.
Yes, they did help, but that's done.

I had the same thought as you (maybe the MAF), but that will have no effect. Read why.

I last worked on this issue about 1 year ago & have emails back & forth to C&L. He said: "...With the plumbing the way that you have described, the MAF signal to the computer should be appropriate for the 30 lb injectors (with the green tube). "...The mass airflow signal can not control the idle speed in any way..."

MAF is difficult to access because it's in the passenger side fender well. Since battery is now on the same side (because SC is on driver's side), it must come out to get to MAF tube. You can see it through the large oval cutout.

I tried the purple tube before & there was no difference. We were going to use it as a template, but our CNC tooling was unable to duplicate. Thought about a replaceable insert for the tube ID which would mimic a camera shutter or iris, so could be adjustable without removing.

Found my measurements for the Cal Tubes. Notice the holes are different diameters at one end; there's a step down in diameter about 1/2" from the outlet. Air flow is from the Angled to the colored end. The larger the injectors, the smaller the hole. All this assumes the conical filter is attached directly to the MAF. Blow-thru application requires the 42lb tube in place of the 30 tube.
Purple, normally for 30lb
0.525" ID Purple End
0.650" ID Angled End

Green, normally for 42lb (currently installed)
0.475" ID Green End
0.650" ID Angled End

Thought about piggyback chip; do you know of any that have some user tunability?

Quarterhorse or Megasquirt?
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1988 GT, 57k mi, Orig Owner
ProCharger P600B, FRPP Headers, Flowmaster F2, 3G Alt, Mk8 Fan/DCC, 3.55's, Prog Springs, ST Brace, G/Trac Bar, Subfrms, UCA, LCA, FCA, Tokico 5-ways, C/C Plates, CSA 16x8, Bridgestone RE760 Sport 225/50R16, Megasquirt DIYPNPF60, LC2 WBO2, C&L76mm MAF w/LU47's

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Quarterhorse all the way. Sometimes you can find a used a TwEECer RT (make sure it's RT) for cheaper as well, but Moates is the best I have seen. Megasquirt would be a full ECU replacement.

'89 5.0L LX hatch: all 90mm 2.2L Blowzilla Dart Iron Eagle 306 @ 8.4:1, ported Vic Jr heads, TMoss ported GT40 lower, Deka 80# injectors, EDIS8, GUFB-A9L2-Moates tuned, Tremec 3550, 3.31 gears w/31-spline TruTrac
'66 GT 2+2 Fastback: carb'd 289, Canfield heads - EFI transformation pending

'71 Mach 1: totaled - R.I.P.
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Quarterhorse all the way. Sometimes you can find a used a TwEECer RT (make sure it's RT) for cheaper as well, but Moates is the best I have seen. Megasquirt would be a full ECU replacement.
I've heard of all of these & have looked at them from time to time.
I have done more research on the Megasquit, so know what options are available & how much it can cost.

Will have to do some research on the QH.
Ford 1986-2004 : Moates.Net
QH uses a chip burner instead of laptop with communication directly to ECU? Any specific recommendations? This one?
'QuarterHorse' for Fords [QH1] - $249.00 : Moates.Net

I understand the hardware, used to have a Data I/O burner on my desk at work. They are still in business:
Device Programmers- High Speed - High Quality Manual and Automated Programmer with Universal Device Support
Mine wasn't this big (LOL).

1988 GT, 57k mi, Orig Owner
ProCharger P600B, FRPP Headers, Flowmaster F2, 3G Alt, Mk8 Fan/DCC, 3.55's, Prog Springs, ST Brace, G/Trac Bar, Subfrms, UCA, LCA, FCA, Tokico 5-ways, C/C Plates, CSA 16x8, Bridgestone RE760 Sport 225/50R16, Megasquirt DIYPNPF60, LC2 WBO2, C&L76mm MAF w/LU47's

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The Ford EECs have a J3 port which allows for complete control of the EEC through it. The TwEECer and Moates QH are J3 devices. They have a USB mini female receptacle onboard that allows interfacing via USB-FTDI serial comms. So it plugs into the USB port on your laptop and with various tuning software available, some free (TunerPro), you can perform realtime datalogging, updating, and full on binary flashing with them.

Personally, I use Binary Editor software, but have been using it for almost 10 years and have tuned all of my Fords with it.

I don't see the point in converting to Megasquirt if you've already got an ECU installed. All you need to do is interface with it and reprogram your MAF curve.

'89 5.0L LX hatch: all 90mm 2.2L Blowzilla Dart Iron Eagle 306 @ 8.4:1, ported Vic Jr heads, TMoss ported GT40 lower, Deka 80# injectors, EDIS8, GUFB-A9L2-Moates tuned, Tremec 3550, 3.31 gears w/31-spline TruTrac
'66 GT 2+2 Fastback: carb'd 289, Canfield heads - EFI transformation pending

'71 Mach 1: totaled - R.I.P.
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Thanks for the quick reply. Have been multitasking & reading up on QH.

Reading the "Geeks Guide", QH battery looks like a CR-2032. Just scanned it, haven't read it.

I've had different EEC's in & out many times. Opened up a few to take a look. Used to be a Controls Engineer, mostly one-off's for DoD R&D.
My Background Summary

Right now, I have the A9L & a newly rebuilt spare in a box. Also, still have the original SD box. For many years, had the Ford Conversion Kit, all that was available in 1990. Sold the whole kit last year, since all the intake plumbing was re-engineered by me. ProCharger never did it right & I have P600B S/N #6, 1st 6 units weren't even marked. Big mistake, never again. Got the MAF cable from Interactive Tech, did the pins swaps, etc.

Probably already setup for FDTI serial. Have the OBDCOM OBD-II cable & software for my '06 Tacoma.

Not ready to purchase today, but is this a BOM?
QH - $249
Tuner Pro RT V5 - $39
USB Driver - Free (probably the FDTI?)

Whole list of stuff here: Tuning Software : Moates.Net

Found binary files here: A9L2 / Ford / EFIDynoTuning

1988 GT, 57k mi, Orig Owner
ProCharger P600B, FRPP Headers, Flowmaster F2, 3G Alt, Mk8 Fan/DCC, 3.55's, Prog Springs, ST Brace, G/Trac Bar, Subfrms, UCA, LCA, FCA, Tokico 5-ways, C/C Plates, CSA 16x8, Bridgestone RE760 Sport 225/50R16, Megasquirt DIYPNPF60, LC2 WBO2, C&L76mm MAF w/LU47's

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I'm in the same line of work. I'm a professional embedded systems engineer and I used to be a game programmer at EA working on Need For Speed titles for almost 10 years. I've also worked at Raytheon Missile Systems and I went to school at RPI, close to Ithaca!

Anyhow, Quarterhorse is definitely worthwhile, I'm currently performing a conversion using EEC-V on my '71 Mustang using it. It has the advantage of being able to perform live updates and seems to be a more recent product than the TwEECer.

As far as tuning software goes, here's my opinion FWIW. Binary Editor is not cheap, but it is easier to tune with and has better support. TunerPro RT is great and I have tuned my '08 Buell motorcycle with it successfully (and datalogged), however I have not had much luck with tuning Fords. This is mostly because the definition file is not up to date on the TunerPro website. You will need to dig around a bit, but you may find a more recent version on another website.

BTW, Mark has TunerPro fully functional for free, just download it and use it from his website. If you like the software and find it useful, it's recommended to donate for a registered copy that eliminates the annoying 10 seconds startup paralysis.

Binary Editor was written by Clint Garrity and he hosts a pretty good website with useful binaries, definitions, and other documentation: EEC Analyzer

'89 5.0L LX hatch: all 90mm 2.2L Blowzilla Dart Iron Eagle 306 @ 8.4:1, ported Vic Jr heads, TMoss ported GT40 lower, Deka 80# injectors, EDIS8, GUFB-A9L2-Moates tuned, Tremec 3550, 3.31 gears w/31-spline TruTrac
'66 GT 2+2 Fastback: carb'd 289, Canfield heads - EFI transformation pending

'71 Mach 1: totaled - R.I.P.

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I' was forced into early retirement. All companies moved away, went out of business or downsized. Former Raytheon CEO was P&W FL President, Hansel Tookes. He got pushed aside when everything moved to CT, so went to Raytheon. He retired & lives a few miles down the road in a multi-million dollar home.

My friend has a '69 351C dead & rusting in the carport. Most guys wouldn't go EFI on a '71.

From what I understand, TwEECer has good hardware, but the software is very outdated. Also somewhat expensive compared to QH, but about the same as Megasquirt.

I'm a bit overwhelmed with all the different software choices & what each one of them does. Software developers never understand KISS. I had to direct a lot of their work because user learning curve was too steep & they never tested anything.

TunerPro - free (installed on my laptop), no delay on startup.
TunerPro RT -what does this do that the free version doesn't?
Binary Editor (installed on laptop), GUI is bad, can't see menu items, wouldn't pay for it.
EEC Analyzer (installed on my laptop), auto updated (must be supported)
EEC Editor - same as BE?

A few hardware questions:
What is the battery for on the QH?
The memory is volatile flash?
If the battery dies, the tune is lost?
Since battery is inside EEC, replacement requires removal & opening case.

Seems somewhat primitive compared to Megasquirt, but QH is less expensive.
They actually have 2 PnP's, the latest one is all contained in one box (shown above). One doesn't replace the other, they still offer them all.
DIYAutoTune has many different 5.0 kits & packages, so it can be less expensive.
Ford 5.0 Mustang Package Deals Megasquirt Kits / Assembled Engine Management Systems, Wideband o2 Sensor Systems and tuning products - DIYAutoTune.com

MS uses 1 software pkg for all which is free: Tuner Studio
ML Viewer is free, too. Versions for Windows-All, Linux & Android.
EFI Analytics Software Downloads | tunerstudio.com

It all depends what you started out with and are familiar with using now. I'm starting from scratch.

1988 GT, 57k mi, Orig Owner
ProCharger P600B, FRPP Headers, Flowmaster F2, 3G Alt, Mk8 Fan/DCC, 3.55's, Prog Springs, ST Brace, G/Trac Bar, Subfrms, UCA, LCA, FCA, Tokico 5-ways, C/C Plates, CSA 16x8, Bridgestone RE760 Sport 225/50R16, Megasquirt DIYPNPF60, LC2 WBO2, C&L76mm MAF w/LU47's

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