Haltech plug n play standalone ECU installed in my YSi Fox... - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 24 Old 05-26-2013, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Haltech plug n play standalone ECU installed in my YSi Fox...

Been a long time coming for me to finally switch over to a stand alone ECU in my Fox. As many of you know, I've made some pretty decent numbers with a stock, re-crystaled ECU, injector driver and SCT tuning by Bob Kurgan. It was a decent setup, but I wanted the accuracy, ease of tuning and data logging capability that only an aftermarket ECU can offer. I knew that an aftermarlet ECU would also make more power....And I was surprised by how much...

The car. Dart 347/ TFS 205 CNC heads/ Kurgan custom cam/ e85



There are various stand alones that have been on the market for some time. My buddies have them, and they work well. However, I wanted two things. One, the ability to simply plug the ECU into the stock harness without a full re-wire and two, the ability, if desired, to retain all emissions equipment etc.... Until now, there weren't any options available to fit my needs. Enter Haltech.

Bob Kurgan recently told me about the new plug and play systems offered by Haltech for both Fox body 5.0 Mustangs AND SN95 5.0 Mustangs. To be honest, I wasn't all that familiar with Haltech, so I did some research. Come to find out, they make some of the most accurate and powerful ECU's available. Top shelf stand alones. Haltech has primarily focused on the import market and are used on many big power import ars. Luckily, JP from Haltech USA, "redhoss" here on the Corral, is a die-hard Mustang guy and convinced the company to diversify into the domestic market, creating two new plug and play kits.

I put my order in for the Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 ECU and patch harness for Fox Mustangs. This is Haltech's flagship ECU and has been used on mild street cars all the way up to mega hp race cars. The base kit includes the ECU and a Haltech-made patch harness that simply connects to the stock ECU harness and then to the Haltech ECU.



I also opted for the highly-recommended dual wide band kit and a 3-bar GM MAP sensor. The Haltech ECU has an internal MAP sensor that is good for up to around 20 psi, so most can get away without an optional MAP.

Here is what I received...



Internal MAP sensor vacuum port and communication port for lap top tuning



Harness connectors for ECU



Patch harness for ECU



Haltech wide band o2's



Wide band o2 controller



Haltech GM 3 bar MAP sensor





On to the install, this is the EASY part...!

Plug the ECU into the stock harness. Takes 5 minutes. You do need to run a vacuum line to the ECU if not running an optional MAP sensor, but that's another 10 minutes...

Communication cable and o2 controller also shown. A bonus is that the Haltech ECU and harness will tuck away into the foot well like stock and the kick panel can be put back on.




Next, remove your MAF, it won't be used as the Haltech is a speed density based system. I pulled it and ran a much larger filter straight off the power pipe. If you didn't get the optional wide bands or MAP sensor, you're done with the install! That's it! Your bypass valve can also now be vented to atmosphere, eliminating the recycled hot air being blown back into inlet of the blower.



The wide band 02's are a snap. You won't need the stock 02's, so simply put them where the stock ones were.



I cut a hole in the pass side fender well, leading to the foot well near the ECU so the o2 wires could reach the ECU.



Rubber grommet installed and voila



Each o2 simply plugs into the wide band controller and then the wide band controller plugs into an extra connector provided on the patch harness for the Haltech. Super easy!

Next is the MAP sensor install.

Simply swap the MAP for the stock BAP sensor. Cut the 3 wires going to the BAP sensor, 5v signal, return signal and ground. Then splice them into the provided connector and plug into the MAP sensor. I mounted mine on the firewall near the stock BAP location. Again, super easy install.





Next, you'll need to plug in your lap top, open the Haltech software and load a provided base map into the ECU. Haltech provides base maps for both the Fox and SN95 system. If you need assistance with a base map or start up, Haltech's customer service is absolutely i n c r e d i b l e. Some of the best assistance I've ever seen from a company. I have 120# injectors with e85 so I needed a unique base map. With a phone call, I had it all sorted out and Haltech was not satisfied until they had me all set.

Here's an idea of how the software looks and how easy it is to navigate and personalize


Once you get the base map, throw it on the dyno and tune it. Bob Kurgan happened to be coming out to So Cal so he worked his magic with the Haltech. Granted, this was the first time he had ever used the system, and we got some great numbers...




First of all, there's no back-to-back dyno numbers for one good reason. I switched from a 5 speed with the stock ECU, to a Freddy Brown AOD with a 4500 stall unlocked converter with the Haltech. Bob told me that from the hundreds of cars he's tuned, in his experience an unlocked auto like mine will lose anywhere from 100-120 rwhp. I made 858 rwhp through a 5 speed. Bob told me up front that he expected to make 750 rwhp at best with the Haltech through the auto. I made no other changes besides the transmission and ECU.

Bob was pretty impressed (and if you know him, that's hard to do, lol) with the numbers we made with the Haltech. With NO changes other than the transmission, we belted out 821 rwhp through an unlocked auto! Damn close to my 5 speed numbers with an expected loss of 100-120 rwhp versus a manual. So by our best estimation, the Haltech alone gained from 60-80 rwhp. That's a huge increase. We had to gap the plugs down another .007" because we were getting spark blow out and there was so much more cylinder pressure.

The dyno reads high on boost. Actual was about 22.5- 23 psi



Here's our reaction to the 821 rwhp pull




I had a 2.95" pulley on the blower, so I said what the hell and threw on a 2.75" pulley. Made a little more boost and 843 rwhp! But my fuel pump was done and injector duty cycle was really high. So there's likely a little more in it. Bob said I'd be making something like 950 rwhp through a 5 speed. I was super happy with the results. 843 rwhp is A LOT for an unlocked auto car with 4500 stall converter, shorty headers and emissions equipment. LOL.

This ECU rocks. Drivability is awesome too. It is smooth at part throttle and cruising. There's so many parameters you can adjust to dial in idle, tip-in etc... I've even plugged in my lap top and played around with the base tune a little, which took very little time to get used to. It's really cool to be able to make changes in 5 minutes if you want to. And they are easily reverted back if they don't turn out the way you want them.

The Haltech also comes with an absolutely incredible data logging feature. It is super easy to use. Plug in the lap top, hit record and that's it. It records a list of parameters a mile long and will provide instant replays of your logging. A super useful tuning tool that I've used since installing a Vortech fuel pump booster to increase my fuel supply and lower injector DC. The interface is super easy to use and is easy to understand.

Since this was the first time both Bob and I had used Haltech, we had some questions about the software and certain tuning maps. Even on Saturday, Haltech was on the phone ASAP helping us resolve any issues we had. These guys are absolutely committed to providing the best customer service of any aftermarket ECU company. They are first class. That goes a long way towards my positive review of any part or component. Especially an ECU, where learning can be extremely frustrating if there's no one that's a phone call away to help.

I see the Haltech plug and play becoming a strong contender in the Mustang aftermarket ECU market. It's not the cheapest, but it provides amazing results, is super easy to install, user friendly as can be, and customer service and assistance is unbeatable.

I look forward to seeing other guys on here make BIG power with this setup. If you guys have any technical questions etc.., I'm sure JP can join in the thread and fill you guys in.


90' LX, Dart 347/YSi 843 rwhp
Now with a 9.5:1 Coyote Aluminator and t56 Magnum looking for a little boost....

13' Race Red Boss 302 #609, AMR wheels/ Eibach springs, Airaid CF CAI, Accufab TB, Flowmaster Super10's
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post #2 of 24 Old 05-26-2013, 02:36 PM
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Cool product for sure, whats something like that cost? Tried searching their website and found nothing for Fords.

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post #3 of 24 Old 05-26-2013, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 03 SeRpEnT View Post
Cool product for sure, whats something like that cost? Tried searching their website and found nothing for Fords.
Here you go, this is the link to 5.0 kits on their site. Sort of hard to find on there...

http://www.haltech.com/new-patch-loo...-5-0-mustangs/

I'm not sure I'm allowed to post prices in here. I would contact Bob Kurgan. He is an authorized dealer and authorized Corral advertiser. He can get the best deals!

90' LX, Dart 347/YSi 843 rwhp
Now with a 9.5:1 Coyote Aluminator and t56 Magnum looking for a little boost....

13' Race Red Boss 302 #609, AMR wheels/ Eibach springs, Airaid CF CAI, Accufab TB, Flowmaster Super10's
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post #4 of 24 Old 05-26-2013, 10:17 PM
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awesome jeremy! this system sounds ALOT like the megasquirt PNP. so... enjoying the auto? thats not really a question, i KNOW your enjoying the auto. i bet the car is alot more drivable/controllable, isnt it?

replaced the 93'ish coupe with a 76 F100, 393, 11.5:1, TEA CNC 205 TW's, custom Hyd Roller, Super Vic, 830 HP, AOD, Edge custom conv., Silverfox SPT-MAC-TB.
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post #5 of 24 Old 05-27-2013, 01:16 AM Thread Starter
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awesome jeremy! this system sounds ALOT like the megasquirt PNP. so... enjoying the auto? thats not really a question, i KNOW your enjoying the auto. i bet the car is alot more drivable/controllable, isnt it?
I love the auto! It's will bury you in the seat way harder than a manual. Definitely more drivable, it's always in the power band. So much better.

Controllable, well, that's kind of hard to say at 850 rw. I cannot believe how much power this car has. It's absolutely insane. Lol, it's impossible to find traction even in 3rd with drag radials.

90' LX, Dart 347/YSi 843 rwhp
Now with a 9.5:1 Coyote Aluminator and t56 Magnum looking for a little boost....

13' Race Red Boss 302 #609, AMR wheels/ Eibach springs, Airaid CF CAI, Accufab TB, Flowmaster Super10's
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I love the auto! It's will bury you in the seat way harder than a manual. Definitely more drivable, it's always in the power band. So much better.

Controllable, well, that's kind of hard to say at 850 rw. I cannot believe how much power this car has. It's absolutely insane. Lol, it's impossible to find traction even in 3rd with drag radials.
i knew it! when you started asking about autos... i was like that car would be INSANE with and auto! sweet ride bud.

replaced the 93'ish coupe with a 76 F100, 393, 11.5:1, TEA CNC 205 TW's, custom Hyd Roller, Super Vic, 830 HP, AOD, Edge custom conv., Silverfox SPT-MAC-TB.
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post #7 of 24 Old 05-27-2013, 02:32 PM
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Very nice. Costumer services is key to any service or product.Is this Haltech plug n play standalone something you could tune on your own or do you need a pro like Bob and a dyno to tune your car?.Got a lot less experience that you so just asking. Got to stop reading your posts.... giving me ideas that are going to lead to a lighter wallet.

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post #8 of 24 Old 05-27-2013, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Very nice. Costumer services is key to any service or product.Is this Haltech plug n play standalone something you could tune on your own or do you need a pro like Bob and a dyno to tune your car?.Got a lot less experience that you so just asking. Got to stop reading your posts.... giving me ideas that are going to lead to a lighter wallet.
Haha... Yeah you can definitely tune it yourself. The interface is very easy to understand. However, I trust Bob a lot more than myself at this point so he is tuning it for now. I think with a little work you can learn to DIY.

90' LX, Dart 347/YSi 843 rwhp
Now with a 9.5:1 Coyote Aluminator and t56 Magnum looking for a little boost....

13' Race Red Boss 302 #609, AMR wheels/ Eibach springs, Airaid CF CAI, Accufab TB, Flowmaster Super10's
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post #9 of 24 Old 06-08-2013, 12:41 AM
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Gonna be in the market for tunable ecu very soon. This has me really intrigued and am curious on pricing. Great power you made there!
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post #10 of 24 Old 06-08-2013, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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Gonna be in the market for tunable ecu very soon. This has me really intrigued and am curious on pricing. Great power you made there!
It was really a great move to go with the Haltech. Not cheap, but for the power and adjustability it's definitely worth it...


90' LX, Dart 347/YSi 843 rwhp
Now with a 9.5:1 Coyote Aluminator and t56 Magnum looking for a little boost....

13' Race Red Boss 302 #609, AMR wheels/ Eibach springs, Airaid CF CAI, Accufab TB, Flowmaster Super10's
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post #11 of 24 Old 06-08-2013, 03:30 PM
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What did u end up with on the plug gap? How many cells does the ve table have for part throttle ?

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post #12 of 24 Old 06-08-2013, 03:47 PM
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It was really a great move to go with the Haltech. Not cheap, but for the power and adjustability it's definitely worth it...
I know you can't give pricing but can you pm me a ballbaek? Just want to know if this is even gonna be feasible or not.
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post #13 of 24 Old 06-09-2013, 08:08 AM
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I know you can't give pricing but can you pm me a ballbaek? Just want to know if this is even gonna be feasible or not.
They are around $2K....

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post #14 of 24 Old 06-09-2013, 12:34 PM
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I know you can't give pricing but can you pm me a ballbaek? Just want to know if this is even gonna be feasible or not.
matt (post above) is correct... this system has MANY options that can vary the price, but a base system is going to bring you in around $2,000... if you would like an exact estimate, shoot me an email and we can discuss what options are best for you! I will email you a .PDF estimate within 24hrs..

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post #15 of 24 Old 06-10-2013, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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What did u end up with on the plug gap? How many cells does the ve table have for part throttle ?
Plug gap ended up at .015". I have since changed out a suspect coil wire that may help open gap a little more. I think 019-.020" is going to be max. May look at a Digital 7 vs my Digital 6 in the future.

Haltech calls it "Transient throttle." There's multiple tables and settings under this parameter.

Not my map, but an example of the settings...


90' LX, Dart 347/YSi 843 rwhp
Now with a 9.5:1 Coyote Aluminator and t56 Magnum looking for a little boost....

13' Race Red Boss 302 #609, AMR wheels/ Eibach springs, Airaid CF CAI, Accufab TB, Flowmaster Super10's

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post #16 of 24 Old 06-10-2013, 12:37 AM
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Plug gap

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Plug gap ended up at .015". I have since changed out a suspect coil wire that may help open gap a little more. I think 019-.020" is going to be max. May look at a Digital 7 vs my Digital 6 in the future.

Haltech calls it "Transient throttle." There's multiple tables and settings under this parameter.

Not my map, but an example of the settings...

So why would your plug gap change to a smaller gap by changing to a stand alone system on your car?
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post #17 of 24 Old 06-10-2013, 01:48 AM Thread Starter
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Cause it's making more power, more complete combustion and therefore higher cylinder pressures.

90' LX, Dart 347/YSi 843 rwhp
Now with a 9.5:1 Coyote Aluminator and t56 Magnum looking for a little boost....

13' Race Red Boss 302 #609, AMR wheels/ Eibach springs, Airaid CF CAI, Accufab TB, Flowmaster Super10's
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post #18 of 24 Old 06-10-2013, 07:21 AM
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So why would your plug gap change to a smaller gap by changing to a stand alone system on your car?
car is making a ton more power!!

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post #19 of 24 Old 06-21-2013, 06:14 PM
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Cause it's making more power, more complete combustion and therefore higher cylinder pressures.
So how is it that by changing just the cpu you get more complete combustion. Can't quite get my hands around this. Is it that this is able to fire the plugs at a more precise time each time? Getting more spark energy?
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post #20 of 24 Old 07-10-2013, 07:39 AM
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So do you get the timing errors like the aem? Does it do the self tunning like the holley system?
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post #21 of 24 Old 07-10-2013, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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So do you get the timing errors like the aem? Does it do the self tunning like the holley system?
No timing errors. There's self-correcting features but they're not the same as Holley. Same idea basically. They require input from the user.

90' LX, Dart 347/YSi 843 rwhp
Now with a 9.5:1 Coyote Aluminator and t56 Magnum looking for a little boost....

13' Race Red Boss 302 #609, AMR wheels/ Eibach springs, Airaid CF CAI, Accufab TB, Flowmaster Super10's
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post #22 of 24 Old 07-11-2013, 06:48 AM
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Ok cool, thanks for the info, got the aem on mine was wandering if it is worth swapping over, Aem works pretty good it gets a hic-cup driving once in while. Stock tach jumps around a little. How is is the tunning compared to big stuff and aem? Any bugs with the software?

Nice ride, how hi up u reving that thing?
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post #23 of 24 Old 07-12-2013, 08:44 AM
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So how is it that by changing just the cpu you get more complete combustion. Can't quite get my hands around this. Is it that this is able to fire the plugs at a more precise time each time? Getting more spark energy?
With the right amount of fuel, and spark timing at the right point, you can make more power.

However you're right, the spark comes before the bang, so the bang doesn't interfere with the spark and so none of that has anything do with plug gap.

However however, perhaps changing the gap did have some sort of positive beneficial change to the flame front for his engine.

At the end of the day, if it works... right?

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post #24 of 24 Old 08-06-2013, 08:04 PM
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Good reading...thanks for the good tech.

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