Can I relocate the battery with four gauge wire ? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 22 Old 08-13-2006, 05:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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Question Can I relocate the battery with four gauge wire ?

I was wondering if I could use Rockford Fosgate or Stinger (audio type) 4 gauge power wire to relocate my battery to the trunk? I know that the battery kit you can buy has a heavier shielded wire. But If I run the wire through the car, will it to the job? I have a lot of in just sitting around.

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Matt

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post #2 of 22 Old 08-13-2006, 08:26 AM
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Too small.

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post #3 of 22 Old 08-13-2006, 11:38 AM
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Dont do it. Get yourself some 0 or 1 ga. and do it right. You can get a kit from summit for something like $60
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post #4 of 22 Old 08-13-2006, 12:37 PM
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Depends on the current draw and the length of the run. Generally 0 or 1 gauge gets the job done. Be sure to put a wafer fuse on it.

You can do a search on the internet under "wire gauge table current" and you will come up with several tables that will give you the maximum current carrying capability of the gauge wire you are looking to use. The 4 ga. is running about 70 amps and the 1 gauge runs about 120 amps. Get some 1 gauge wire, a wafer fuse holder, and a 130 amp wafer fuse.

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post #5 of 22 Old 08-13-2006, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks guys..
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post #6 of 22 Old 08-13-2006, 06:08 PM
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If you prefer to use the Fosgate or Stinger brands (softer copper strands and easier to work with) be sure to go with the proper size.

Justin
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post #7 of 22 Old 08-13-2006, 07:24 PM
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use welding cable, 0 gauge

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post #8 of 22 Old 08-13-2006, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks guys.. I guess I'll go with the welding cable. Now I need to find a place to pick it up..
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post #9 of 22 Old 08-13-2006, 09:51 PM
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just goto a welding shop, muffler shop, whatever, and ask them where you can buy some cable. odds are they sell it.

I'd rather be on rope in a deep deep pit cave.
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post #10 of 22 Old 08-13-2006, 10:20 PM
 
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Also - You could parallel, (run two #4's side by side) to provide adequate amperage capacity AND save $$ since you have the cable?

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post #11 of 22 Old 08-13-2006, 10:52 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bronzesink8
Also - You could parallel, (run two #4's side by side) to provide adequate amperage capacity AND save $$ since you have the cable?
No, you can not do that!
In the real world, there's always a difference between any 2 wires or components. So, one wire will carry more current than the other. There are also many other real life considerations when using more than one wire to carry current or voltage.

Do it right, or don't do it at all. Unless you have an Electrical Engineering degree, don't even think of going against install instructions by doing something that you or someone else "thought up".

And, if you we're wondering, yes, I have an EE degree.
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post #12 of 22 Old 08-13-2006, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mafpower
No, you can not do that!
In the real world, there's always a difference between any 2 wires or components. So, one wire will carry more current than the other. There are also many other real life considerations when using more than one wire to carry current or voltage.

Do it right, or don't do it at all. Unless you have an Electrical Engineering degree, don't even think of going against install instructions by doing something that you or someone else "thought up".

And, if you we're wondering, yes, I have an EE degree.
I plan on using 0 welding wire.. (for both power & ground)

Thanks again everyone..
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post #13 of 22 Old 08-14-2006, 01:44 AM
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Whats a wfer fuse holder? I'm sure I know what it is just probably call it something different.

BRIAN
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post #14 of 22 Old 08-14-2006, 09:56 PM
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Here you go. That is what I am used to calling it. Worked in the home and car audio industry while in college but its been a few years.



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post #15 of 22 Old 08-15-2006, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mafpower
No, you can not do that!
In the real world, there's always a difference between any 2 wires or components. So, one wire will carry more current than the other. There are also many other real life considerations when using more than one wire to carry current or voltage.
Do it right, or don't do it at all. Unless you have an Electrical Engineering degree, don't even think of going against install instructions by doing something that you or someone else "thought up".
And, if you we're wondering, yes, I have an EE degree.

In the real world people do run parallel conductors when the correct gauge of wire is not available. It may not be "by the book", but at the end of the day the electrons don't care which of the two wires they rode into town on, the equipment will be up and running, and your boss will be happy.

So dust off your oh so High and Mighty EE degree and show us how many amps two 4 gauge conductors can handle at 15 VDC instread of trying to impress us with your education and lack of real world experience.

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post #16 of 22 Old 08-15-2006, 12:48 PM
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And I quote from the movie Friday..."DAAAAAMN!!!"

Typically 4 ga will handle about 60 amps on a 20' run. I have seen dual runs before and not a big fan but if it is what you have then its your call. To be safe use two wafer fuse holders close to the battery with 80 amp fuses on each line. If you parallel them to one fuse holder and use a 130 amp fuse you could overload one of the lines and never blow the fuse. That would be very bad.

Darren

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post #17 of 22 Old 08-15-2006, 03:07 PM
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It looks like d brune, along with bronzesink8, has some real world experience too.

TTT for All Foxed Up....

Regards,
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Last edited by 90trunk; 08-15-2006 at 03:16 PM.
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post #18 of 22 Old 08-15-2006, 03:48 PM
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I use the 2gauge that came with my TAYLOR battery relocation kit. Been over 3 years now. I use the factory battery, have underdrive pullies and 120watt Bazooka tube. No problems here.

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Last edited by 2k2GT; 08-15-2006 at 03:51 PM.
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post #19 of 22 Old 08-16-2006, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLOWN1989SALEEN
use welding cable, 0 gauge
me too!! Works Great

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post #20 of 22 Old 08-16-2006, 04:57 PM
 
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As far as problems with the parallel #4 cables - Look at the 1/0 welding cable cut ends. Common to see 133 strands of cu. They are all the same size and running side by side each carrying their share. Kind of a multiple parallel effect if you will.

If 10% are damaged the others will still carry 90% of the load. A problem with two #4's, (in parallel), and only one fuse, if one is severly damaged, the other will overheat and the insulation will fail, (depending on the load being drawn through the cables). For this reason, should parallel cables be put into service - consideration should be given to separate fuses on the line side of a single fuse.
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post #21 of 22 Old 10-19-2006, 02:14 AM
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When paralleling two cables together, it's important to make sure they are exactly the same length. That is where the resistance difference comes in, and also where one wire carries more current than another. Current flows through the path of least resistance (the shorter wire)...but if they're both the same, then you're cool! BTW I also have an EE degree!

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post #22 of 22 Old 10-19-2006, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bronzesink8 View Post
Also - You could parallel, (run two #4's side by side) to provide adequate amperage capacity AND save $$ since you have the cable?
The wire that ends up being shorter, or having less resistance /w take on more current. Bad idea... it's better than running just one 4ga wire, but if one of those wires gets water damaged (water seeps into it and causes corrosion with the copper) it'll make it have a higher resistance, force the load on the other wire and melt it.

Just get the right gauage and do it once
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