Battery Relocation kit installed now car wont start! Help Please! - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 38 Old 01-24-2006, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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Cool Battery Relocation kit installed now car wont start! Help Please!

TOday i just put the battery relocation kit in my 83' 351 stang, ran everything correct no loose wires or anything ground it right etc. so i go to start it up and the battery and lights come on,ie pw's go down/lights turn on, but upon cranking it just clicks once and thats it. Wtf could be causing this? Its kinda depressing.

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post #2 of 38 Old 01-24-2006, 09:32 PM
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double check the wires...and did you use nice big cables..and since the battery is father away from the starter your battery must be in goos shape.. also check the nut on the solidnoid


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post #3 of 38 Old 01-24-2006, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
 
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Used brand new 2 gauge cables, the batterys a lil smaller than stock setup but is new What should i check for on the solenoid nut? BTW i didnt have the serpentine belt on at startup could that cause anything?
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post #4 of 38 Old 01-24-2006, 09:42 PM
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the nut that holds the hot cable to the starter solinoid, the belt should not matter , if you are just trying to start it

1962 falcon stock 1992 302 short block, RHS heads, 1.5 inch headers ..bullet cam ..victor jr.. [email protected] on 26x8.5 inch slicks with 1962 suspension(under construction getting back halved)

1979 zephyr , 393w, bone stock 1979 suspension on 26-8.5 tires [email protected]
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post #5 of 38 Old 01-24-2006, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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okay just checked it its ithgt and nothings wrong with it i dont know whats going on maybe my spark plug caps are misarranged on my rotor...possibly causing no start?
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post #6 of 38 Old 01-24-2006, 10:12 PM
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I just had the same one-click and no-start issue. I ended up noticing my starter was shorting to the block (sparking).

Also, tell us EXACTLY what wires are on your solenoid.

Your solenoid has 3 prongs.
1. smaller pin at 12 o'clock
2. larger pin at 3 o'clock
3. other large pin at 9 o'clock

- Jim
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post #7 of 38 Old 01-24-2006, 10:12 PM
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If it is not turning over it is NOT wired right it would have nothing to do with your belt or your plug wires........
Give us an Idea how you wired it

Hey Jim didnt we just go through this with you?

73 ranchero
89 5.0 HO/AOD combo
X pipe w/flowmasters
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Last edited by 5.0 CHERO; 01-24-2006 at 10:15 PM.
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post #8 of 38 Old 01-24-2006, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
 
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i grounded the battery to the back of the hatch area (clean ground) and ran the power through the back of the hatch under the carpet thru firewall to starter solenoid and then no start lol
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post #9 of 38 Old 01-24-2006, 10:17 PM
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need more info!!!!!!!!!! also you should ground it better

73 ranchero
89 5.0 HO/AOD combo
X pipe w/flowmasters
3.50 posi 9in
4 wheel disc brakes
slamed w/air bags in the rear

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post #10 of 38 Old 01-24-2006, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
 
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okay battery is behind back seat in the hatch right infront/above spare wheel well, its a lil small for the try so we had to tighten it down by drilling thru the holding h brace but is super steady and stays still. Before i relocated the battery the car would have problems cranking over after initial startup like i went to the store for something and it got warmed up it wuld crank very weak or and start or just die out cranking and then id have to let it sit and cool for awhile. the starter solenoid looks old so does the "blaster coil" maybe something shorted out.

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post #11 of 38 Old 01-24-2006, 11:22 PM
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Battery sounds a little weak for its intended use. You would be amazed at the amp draw of a relocated battery when trying to start it or run accessories. Double check all conections for tightness and check your ground with an ohmmeter.

94 GT
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post #12 of 38 Old 01-24-2006, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0 CHERO
If it is not turning over it is NOT wired right it would have nothing to do with your belt or your plug wires........
Give us an Idea how you wired it

Hey Jim didnt we just go through this with you?
yes.... its as if you was only yesterday

- Jim
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post #13 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 12:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrt123
okay battery is behind back seat in the hatch right infront/above spare wheel well, its a lil small for the try so we had to tighten it down by drilling thru the holding h brace but is super steady and stays still. Before i relocated the battery the car would have problems cranking over after initial startup like i went to the store for something and it got warmed up it wuld crank very weak or and start or just die out cranking and then id have to let it sit and cool for awhile. the starter solenoid looks old so does the "blaster coil" maybe something shorted out.
No more info On HOW YOU WIRED IT. The starter doese not give a **** how you mounted the battery............

73 ranchero
89 5.0 HO/AOD combo
X pipe w/flowmasters
3.50 posi 9in
4 wheel disc brakes
slamed w/air bags in the rear

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post #14 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 12:41 AM
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Alright....

Where in the hatch do you ground? To the floor?

- Jim
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post #15 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 01:50 AM Thread Starter
 
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yup its grounded to the hatch floor where the metal is bare.
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post #16 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 02:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrt123
yup its grounded to the hatch floor where the metal is bare.
A much better grounding location would be through the hatch floor and use the quad-shock bolt, clean the frame off well here with a grinder....

Now,
Tell us what gauge wire you ran to your starter.... then where you ran from the starter to the solenoid (and this wire's size also).

Have you changed any of your factory grounds? If not, I suggest upgrading these to 4ga (it guarantees you wont have grounding problems).
- Back of driver-side head to firewall
- Front timing cover (driver-side) to sway bar location?

Also, take a volt meter to your battery... what voltage does it have right now? How about while you try turning the key over?

Finally, try starting the car with another battery or with a portable battery charger set to "jump-mode." Will the car start in this instance?

- Jim
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post #17 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 07:26 AM
 
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Don't forget the ground cable from the Engine Block to the Frame Rail. Buddy of mine fought his relocated battery issues for months before realizing he didn't have a good ground up front. The one in the back was tinkered with mostly. It acted like the battery was weak and/or dead all together. After the cable was taken care of from the block to the frame rail, it worked just fine.
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post #18 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 07:34 AM
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Would this, by chance cause a slow draw?
Curious. Cause ever since I relocated my battery to the trunk (w/ 4 ga), I've had a slow draw. Slow enough that I just pi$$ on it, and went and bought a battery shut off switch. I use it every time I shut my car off. Kind of a PITA. But I've goten used to it. LOL


~Jeff
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post #19 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 10:21 AM
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No Bottlfed A bad ground will not cause a slow draw.

73 ranchero
89 5.0 HO/AOD combo
X pipe w/flowmasters
3.50 posi 9in
4 wheel disc brakes
slamed w/air bags in the rear

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post #20 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 12:48 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larcen
Don't forget the ground cable from the Engine Block to the Frame Rail. Buddy of mine fought his relocated battery issues for months before realizing he didn't have a good ground up front. The one in the back was tinkered with mostly. It acted like the battery was weak and/or dead all together. After the cable was taken care of from the block to the frame rail, it worked just fine.

Ditto.
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post #21 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well, I used 2 gauge wire for both the ground and power, i will try and ground to the quad shock like you said, and im kinda a newbie so i dont know where/ if i ran from the starter to the solenoid i just ran the power the power cable straight from the back to the solenoide (where it was when the battery was in front, i dont really think ive changed much though from when the battery was in the front.
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post #22 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrt123
Well, I used 2 gauge wire for both the ground and power, i will try and ground to the quad shock like you said, and im kinda a newbie so i dont know where/ if i ran from the starter to the solenoid i just ran the power the power cable straight from the back to the solenoide (where it was when the battery was in front, i dont really think ive changed much though from when the battery was in the front.
any more descriptions or better yet - pictures you can provide us can help you further troubleshoot

- Jim
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post #23 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
 
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yeah ill get some more pictures when i get off wrok tonight so yall can see what ive been trying to fix.
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post #24 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
 
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the clicking seems to be coming from the solenoid on the side where the battery used to be, when i touch a flat head to the positive on it and metal it seems to "shoot sparks" but wont turn over, could the solenoid just be bad? btw i got a brand new bigger battery and it still clicks.
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post #25 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 07:23 PM
 
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PUT A GROUND CABLE ON THE ENGINE BLOCK
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post #26 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 07:40 PM
 
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had the same problem when i first did this to my car.. i would be willing to bet, you need to fix the ground cable, and make it to something on the rear frame rail. like the quad shock bracket or something near there.. and you will need a good ground cable from the block to the frame up front also..i made one from the lower starter bolt to the front sway bar mount on the frame..
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post #27 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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Okay im gonna ground to the quad shock bracket. I would do this by removing quad-shock, filing down any paint and making it a clean surface, and the putting ground over stud and tightening down over it with quadshock on top? Also what other ground is there?? im confused about the " engine block one so there is two gruonds not just the one from the battery? sorry for all these damn questions but next time ill know exactly what the hell to do thanks all.
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post #28 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 10:08 PM
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Your battery originally grounded to the block....... Your battery is no longer grounded to you block. So you need to add a ground cable from engine block to the front frame rail

73 ranchero
89 5.0 HO/AOD combo
X pipe w/flowmasters
3.50 posi 9in
4 wheel disc brakes
slamed w/air bags in the rear

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post #29 of 38 Old 01-25-2006, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0 CHERO
Your battery originally grounded to the block....... Your battery is no longer grounded to you block. So you need to add a ground cable from engine block to the front frame rail
+1

if you do this im 90% sure it will solve your problem

and what the hell are you doing buying another battery? we didn't tell you to do that.

- Jim
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post #30 of 38 Old 01-26-2006, 10:02 AM
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I suggest you also upgrade your power cable from the battery to the solenoid. Use 1/0 welding cable. With your stock setup you had maybe an 18" cable run. With the bat. in the hatch you now have at least 16'. There is a lot of resistance through that #2 cable you're using, causing a possible drop in voltage. With the engine off, check your voltage at the battery and then check it at the solenoid. You should have at least 12v at both locations. With the engine running around 14v.

I also grounded to the quad shock bolt location using the 1/0 welding cable and also ran a #2 cable from the same location to the engine block. The engine block is also grounded to the front frame rail with #2 cable. Maybe it's overkill but it always starts and charges.

John
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post #31 of 38 Old 01-26-2006, 01:00 PM
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Just for the sake of being complete - does anybody know the size of wire is the (stock) 18" cable from the batt. to solenoid? I can then show the differences in voltage drop between his old wire and the new wire (to the trunk).

- Jim
87 Hatch.
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Last edited by JimBowy; 01-26-2006 at 01:08 PM.
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post #32 of 38 Old 01-26-2006, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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Exclamation ok

okay i moved battery back to original position in front, used old power cable setup from battry to solenoid and used old ground setup from battery to manifold. it starts fine. so my question is, with the batteryrelocated to the back i need to ground from battery to quad shock bracket, run the power through car to front solenoid, and the original ground from the maifold. where do i ground that to? back to battery, thru the car so now i would have 2 seperate grounds, or from manifold just to metal inside engine bay? how would i do this? thanks-R.
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post #33 of 38 Old 01-26-2006, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrt123
and the original ground from the maifold. where do i ground that to? back to battery, thru the car so now i would have 2 seperate grounds, or from manifold just to metal inside engine bay? how would i do this? thanks-R.
I answered you on this 4 post eariler....

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0 CHERO
Your battery originally grounded to the block....... Your battery is no longer grounded to you block. So you need to add a ground cable from engine block to the front frame rail
I will tell you the same thing I told Jim to do. Take the 2 Ga cable you have for the positive now and use it for a ground to the block.. leave the other ground to your Quad Shock their. Go to a welding supply shop and get 1/0 welding cable and run it to the solinoid..... 2 Ga is to small!!!!!!!!!!!! for the hot lead.

73 ranchero
89 5.0 HO/AOD combo
X pipe w/flowmasters
3.50 posi 9in
4 wheel disc brakes
slamed w/air bags in the rear

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Last edited by 5.0 CHERO; 01-26-2006 at 11:58 PM.
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post #34 of 38 Old 01-27-2006, 01:02 AM
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I'll SHOW you what I would do....


- Jim
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post #35 of 38 Old 01-27-2006, 06:26 PM
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get this problem figured out yet?

- Jim
87 Hatch.
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