New Battery/Solenoid = Car barely cranks then dies - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 10-16-2005, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Angry New Battery/Solenoid = Car barely cranks then dies

My '88 just built from roller-status has starting and idle problems.

Even with a new solenoid/Costco battery the car BARELY cranks and just blacks out.

Even with 12.3 volts on the battery, my dash voltmeter is only on the first white line over the red lines.

What does this? A short somewhere?

I have a rear-battery relocation kit with a 140 amp alternator fuse and a Moroso Cut-off switch.

Measuring the voltage at the starter solenoid is still 12+ volts on the hot terminal.

What I crank my car, the voltage drops to 6-7 volts so my car barely gets one revolution.

I believe i have adequate grounds, i have a two gauge going from the engine block to the sway bar and the rear neg. battery post goes to the sway bar bracket mount. Both of them have been sanded and soldered myself.

Any feedback? This problem has been bothering me for weeks.

When I short the solenoid and run a straight to the starter the same thing happens.


Last edited by 88DroptopGT; 10-18-2005 at 11:23 AM.
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post #2 of 7 Old 10-16-2005, 04:15 PM
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2 cents...are you running a mini-starter?...I have had this problem and I used a voltmeter to find a bad gound...attach the (+) to the battery in the rear and get a long piece of 14ga wire and clip it to the neg side of the voltmeter...you will have a reading on your battery ex. 12.53v...now take that long piece of wire and check each ground point...they should all be close to your initial reading...after this you can reverse the procedure to check the positve points in your system, solenoid, alt., etc...


P.S. if you go this route check the bolts holding the solenoid...this is the ground source for the solenoid...a little rust or paint and it can cause some of the problems you describ...good luck


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Last edited by marius; 10-16-2005 at 04:23 PM.
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post #3 of 7 Old 10-17-2005, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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I installed a reman. starter just yesterday so it's just biggie size.

I'll try and check the wire and grounds when I get the time, but right now I'm hoping it's the starter wire.

Thanks for the feedback.
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post #4 of 7 Old 10-17-2005, 01:25 AM
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im not totally sure on this, but a new battery should read at least 12.7 volts. i've heard that at 12.4 volts, the battery is already low enough to cause starting problems, and anything at 12.0 or lower wont start a car, normally... can anyone confirm this?

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post #5 of 7 Old 10-17-2005, 01:29 PM
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Sounds to me like two things. One being the noid. It is was keeps the power going to the starter and is what sticks and causes starter to run and run. Replace that first. Second are your grounds to the swaybar mount good? Might be isolated by the rubber. I would also add another ground in the rear from the battery to the frame.

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post #6 of 7 Old 10-17-2005, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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My friends brand new Honda Pilot got 12.5 volts on her battery.

Cranks no problem for her. I believe 12+ is enough, although I saw a high-compression 351w BARELY start with a new battery but old starter.

I'll check the starter cable tonight.
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post #7 of 7 Old 10-25-2005, 12:39 AM Thread Starter
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A new battery and cleaning the back of the Solenoid fixed it. But my car idles crappy still.

Thanks for the feedback though!
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