Battery relocation - 1995 mustang
On the 95's Do I have to run the large charging wire and, or just a 2 gauge from the power distribution box to the battery? Or do I upgade the charging wire (BLK/ORG) from the Alt. to the power dist. box? I was looking at this in one of my searches but its geared to the 87-93 style cars.
I cant get the diagram to come up but I can email it to you.
Here's the text that was on the page:
I'm not gonna go into too much detail on where to route the wire, exactly how to do it, etc., cause that shouldn't be a problem for anyone that is attempting this relocation. (FYI, I routed mine through a grommet in the floor and underneath the car, using large zip ties to secure it to the subframe connector.)
As you will see for the positive cable I used 1/o welding cable. Trust me, the welding cable is far easier to manage than the 2ga cable supplied in the Taylor kit. It's much more flexible due to the 2ga cable having maybe 25 strands of copper in it, whereas the 1/o cable has probably 500 or so. Another thing is it's insulated and is designed to withstand the rigors of being outdoors and will have no problem being routed outside the passenger compartment should you choose to do so (as I did).
*~25ft of 1/o welding cable
* I used the Taylor box w/wiring kit, but you can use the box of your choice
*~15ft of 2ga cable (if not supplied with your box, or get extra welding cable and use that)
*~10ft of 10ga wiring (good to have extra)
* Summit cutoff switch #SUM-G1432
* Various lug ends and a couple of marine style battery clamps
*NOTE: I noticed that the 1/o lugs seemed a little big, so I used 2/o lugs for a better fit.
* The 2ga wire from the Taylor kit was used for the charge wire from the alternator to the shutoff switch (see notes below), and also for the ground wire from the battery to the quad shock bracket.
* The stock ground on the engine block to what was the negative battery terminal is still used, but it's now routed from the engine block to the sway bar bracket (or any place on the framerail).
* There was also a small (~10ga) wire that was attached at the firewall and connected to the negative battery terminal. Simply leave it attached at the firewall and ground it to the sway bar bracket along with the ground from the engine block. I was told this is for the computer to get a better ground.
* The most difficult part is drilling the holes for the battery box hold-down bolts. You will most likely have to drop the gas tank to get underneath so you can put the backing nuts on, but it's no big deal. You don't have to drop the gas tank all the way down, just enough to get your hands in there....simply loosen the bolts for the straps that are holding up the tank (13mm socket), take off the metal loop that supports the filler neck (8mm socket), and drop the tank down. Just set the tank on something, milk crate or small box so it will be supported. Try to make sure that there's not much gas in there either, that thing is one heavy mutha when it's full.
Also, I had a problem with the bracket holding the battery coming loose. The 2 nuts holding it down would slowly unscrew themselves and the battery moved around....enough so at the track on a launch the battery shifted and the positive side touched the underside of the box's lid. Can you say sparks!?! Simple solution was to double nut it.
--If you have a 3G alternator--
*** One thing to note, if you have upgraded to a 3G alternator and gone by my diagram on the other page, the black/orange-striped charging wires (the eyelets) will need to be pulled off the alternator's charging post and covered, then run the new 2ga charging wire from the charging post to the back of the car as in the diagram. (The stock size is 4ga or 6ga, I can't remember, but I used 2ga for better charging) If you follow the black/orange striped wire out you'll see that it goes to the starter solenoid. Do NOT pull the black/orange-striped wire off the starter solenoid, as you will have inadvertently also pulled off another wire that the regulator uses to sense voltage. It ties into this black/orange-striped wire about 5" or so before the starter solenoid so it can read the voltage at the solenoid and get a true sense of what the alternator needs to put out.
--If you have the stock alternator--
*** If you are running the stock alternator, find the large plug on the back of it that has the 2 black/orange-striped wires coming out (it's the large rectangular one on top). Peel the covering of these 2 wires back about 6" from the plug, and you'll see that they merge together to form 1 wire. Cut it just after the merge, and then you can splice your 2ga charge wire (from the rear) into the end that goes to the alternator. The leftover end of the black/orange-striped wire (the one that goes to the starter solenoid) is simply covered and put out of the way.
--If you have a PA 130amp upgrade
***PA's instructions for their 130amp alternator upgrade say to put an eyelet on each of the 2 black/orange-striped wires that you cut from the rectangular plug and put them on the charging stud (if you didn't use their big Power Wire Kit), the same way as I outlined in my 3G upgrade writeup. Take both those eyelets off the stud and cover 'em up and put them out of the way. Put on your new 2ga charging wire and run it to the back of the car.
If you have upgraded to their Power Wire Kit(a big single main charging wire going to the starter solenoid from the alternator), you need to take that off, cover it up and put it out of the way, and then put on your new 2ga wire and run it to the back.
No matter what, you will only have a single 2ga charging wire going from the 3G stud to the rear of the car.
There have been many questions as to why I used 2ga wiring for the ground wires and the charging circuit. The reasons I used them are:
A) That's what was in the Taylor kit
B) The 2ga is adequate for grounding and charging
C) If you have a stock alternator and do it this way when (if) you upgrade to a 130amp later the wiring will already be enough to handle the extra output under a large load.