Problems after battery relocation - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 10-10-2004, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Problems after battery relocation

To start off, I used Buffhomer's instructions to wire everything up, including putting an on/off switch into it. My problems are that now I'm having some slow cranking when the motor is hot, like if the starter was going bad. I thought that was kinda wierd, but my big problem is that every once in a while, the starter solonoid is sticking and it will continuously crank the motor whether I have the key in the ignition or not, and the only way to stop it is to cut power to the car. At first I thought it was because I had used 2 gauge wire for everything, including the one from the solinoid to the battery, so I replaced it with 1/O marine battery cable, but I'm still having the same problem. I tried replacing the starter solonoid with no luck, and like I said, it only does it every once in a while, not every time. Anybody have any ideas?


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post #2 of 19 Old 10-10-2004, 03:11 PM
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Check/clean your grounds.


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post #3 of 19 Old 10-10-2004, 05:08 PM
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I too say your grounds are bad. What kind of cut-off switch did you use?
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post #4 of 19 Old 10-10-2004, 05:24 PM
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Could be completely coincidental, but when a starter stays engaged, the starter itself could be going bad.

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post #5 of 19 Old 10-10-2004, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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Well I went out and recleaned all the grounds. The first time I cranked it, it hung for just a second and then let go and didn't hang at all for 5 start ups after that, but that little hang really makes me think it's going to do it again. I was also thinking maybe the solonoid I got might be bad. It's just a cheap one from Discount Auto, I'm thinking maybe I need to just go to Ford and buy one there if it continues, or like Eric said, the starter itself could be going bad.

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post #6 of 19 Old 10-10-2004, 06:34 PM
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Im having similiar probs and a guy at the track recommended (very respectable racer) that I run a ground wire from the battery all the way to the engine. He had similar probs and it cured for him so thats what I am doing.
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post #7 of 19 Old 10-10-2004, 06:35 PM
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This will be the 4th ground wire on my car also. JFYI
1 to chassis, one from head to frame, and one from block to frame. And now battery to block. Hope it works.
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post #8 of 19 Old 10-10-2004, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Cool, I'll try that out. I have all the other grounds the same way you have yours.

Wayne
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post #9 of 19 Old 10-11-2004, 01:28 PM
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food for thought.. in terms of cable size/ quality... it is not just the gauge of wire that matters... almost more important when getting down to 2/0.. 1/0.. 2ga and so on, is the strand count.. the electricity actually flows around the strands... not through (or so ive been told).. for example.. if you go to a pep boys and buy a length of 1/0ga commercial grade wire, you would probably count 100 or less individual strands of copper wire inside the jacketing... by contrast i went a slightly more expensive route and ordered a bunch of supplies from marc at mad electrical out in cali, including a massive amount of his 1/0ga wire... i cut the jacket off a scrap and ATTEMPTED to count the srands, but gave up after 250.... my coupe actually cranked faster with an optima in the trunk with this wire, than an interstate mtp58 up front with the stock cables... the finer, more numerous strands afforded two advantages... 1) better electrical transfer with far less voltage drop (=less heat and more power at the other end) 2) far more flexible... (i can bed a u with a 1" radius in that stuff) therefore easier to route... basically... when you put your battery in the trunk.. dont skimp on qualitity wiring and end terminals... the battery is far more important than we often realize.... i always recommend either calling mad electrical to talk to marc, or checking out their web site www.madelectrical.com it has a great wealth of information, some awesome products, tons of tips and provides great insight into modifying your cars electrical system...

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post #10 of 19 Old 10-11-2004, 06:45 PM
 
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Most likely a ground problem now that you removed the (-) lead to the block when you relocated the battery. Easy to fix, add a short ground from the starter body to the frame and it should cure your problems. No need to run another cable all the way from the battery (useless added weight).

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post #11 of 19 Old 10-11-2004, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Well I ended up running the extra negative cable from the battery to the block, basically because I already had the extra cable and it did nothing to help the problem. Lilnuke, I never got rid of the original ground, I left it connected to the block and grounded it to the sway bar mount. All of my cable is good stuff too. I used 2g welding cable for all the negatives and the power cable from the alternator to the battery, then I used 1/0 marine battery cable (which has a lot of strands in it, almost like welding cable) to go from the solonoid to the battery. After the extra ground wire didn't help, I tried a new ignition switch on a suggestion and as soon as I turned the on/off switch on, it started cranking the motor over. Tomorrow I'm going to start checking wires with a volt meter to see if I can trace it out.

Wayne
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post #12 of 19 Old 10-11-2004, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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I just did a search and check out what I came up with.
https://corral.net/forums/showthread....hlight=starter
Getting a new starter tomorrow. Good call Eric.

Wayne
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post #13 of 19 Old 10-14-2004, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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Update: New starter = DENIED. Not the problem, so I'm going to start chasing wires like I said before.

Wayne
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post #14 of 19 Old 10-14-2004, 12:42 PM
 
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post #15 of 19 Old 10-14-2004, 01:11 PM
 
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Get a new starter and put your ground cables somewhere else. There is a reason why your car is not starting right because the current is not good enough due to a bad ground and because its not where Ford wanted it at. There is a good reason why it's under the hood. Can you extend the ground wire so that its in the engine compartment?
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post #16 of 19 Old 10-14-2004, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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It's done.....and I figured out that I'm a moron at the same time. I used the test light and found (obviously) that I was getting power to both posts on the solenoid. I then started thinking and came up with, hey, maybe I accidently switched the sides I had the wires on, thus backfeeding the system, burning up the solenoid, and causing power to go straight through. So anyway, I bought a new solenoid and switched the wires around and voila. Car cranks much better and no signs of the starter hanging at all. Oh well, lesson learned. Thanks for all the suggestions though.

Wayne
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post #17 of 19 Old 10-15-2004, 07:43 PM
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Good, so it wasn't my instructions then.
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post #18 of 19 Old 10-16-2004, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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No, it wasn't, but I did notice that on your instructions you had the wire coming from the alternator going to the same side of the on/off switch as the power wire coming from the battery. If this is done, it will back feed the system with power and the on/off switch will be useless. It's something that most people can figure out, but I'm sure someone that doesn't know a whole lot about cars might get a little frustrated. Thanks again to everybody for your suggestions and Buffhomer for your site.

Wayne
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post #19 of 19 Old 10-16-2004, 12:20 PM
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No man, that's how it's done. It works perfectly.

NHRA rules state you have to cut power to the entire vehicle, so you must cut off all power sources with the switch....and those are the alternator and the battery. You can't backfeed to anywhere because the power HAS to go THROUGH the switch to get to the point of distribution (the solenoid). Cut the switch off, and nothing works.
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