battery relocated in hatchback problem - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 08-29-2004, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Angry battery relocated in hatchback problem

Hello Corralers,

I am in process of relocating my battery in the hatch of a 93LX and I am running into a problem with j bolt holes....I am finding out that there is a frame rail on the far passenger side of the car that is prohibitting me from drilling a hole that will go completely through the trunk floor and able to be bolted in....and on the left of the box there is of course the spare tire well, anyone that can give me any advice as to where they positioned their box would be of great appreciation as I am at my wits end on this and that is all I have to do untill I can start up my car and break in my new 414 motor....Please help me I need a break!!!!!!! I will anyone who can help me


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post #2 of 9 Old 08-29-2004, 07:04 PM
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I just did my 89 notch but I'm sure the frame rails are the same. The outside bolt (furthest toward passenger side) is located just inboard of the frame rail. The other bolt is 8 1/4" toward the driver side. Once the box is mounted there is no overlap or interference with the spare tire well. This is using the taylor SS box with threaded rods, not j-bolts.

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post #3 of 9 Old 08-29-2004, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply man, there you go...LOL...I was trying to use the summit plastic POS but it is just not going to work properly so I am gonna have to eat that up to experiance and buy a taylor box....I have a few questions if you would not mind answering...

1.)What did you do about the fuel tank plug??? The plug on the passenger side trunk floor...Did you set the box on it or did you set the box in front of that??? How far from the back of the car is your box???

2.)Which way did you position your box??? What I mean is did you run the long dimension front to back or side to side???

3.)Does the taylor box come with a template so you can figure out where to drill the holes or is that all on the installer???

4.)How do you like your taylor box???

I think that is it...I hope to get some answers on these questions because i am gonna order the box tonight...Thanks again

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post #4 of 9 Old 08-29-2004, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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Well, Just bought a new Taylor 48100 battery box for $78.70 including shipping from Ebay...Should be here this week and will be able to finish up my relocate and FINALLY start my car!!!!!!!!!!! I would still like to hear answers to my questions, so please help a brother out....

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post #5 of 9 Old 08-30-2004, 10:03 AM
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I used one of the UPR battery relocation kits I purchased off a vendor in the classifides section. It worked great. Nice aluminum box and the provided cables worked great. I just had to purchase a longer grounding cable to put it to the quadrashock bracket.

If you look at your passanger side frame rail there is a hole at the rear you can drill through for a mounting location and another about 8 inches forward. BTW, I mounted my long ways....from front to rear, not side to side.

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post #6 of 9 Old 08-30-2004, 10:04 AM
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Obviously you have to drop your gas tank to put one of these kits in....and it is a good opportunity to replace your fuel pump at the same time.

1988 GT

Full Ported and Polished GT-40 Ps, Fully Ported Cobra Intake, FMS 65mm Throttle Body, FMS GT-40 P Headers, FMS 1.6 rr, TFS Stage I Cam, 76mm C&L Mass Air, Full Exhaust, FMS Aluminum Drive Shaft, Holden Racing T-5, etc...

Suspension:
5 lug 4 wheel disc brakes, SN 95 Brake Conversion w/ 99+ PBR Calipers, JBA Dominator Springs, BBK Subframe connectors, BBK Strut Tower Brace, Hotchkis Upper & Lower Control Arms, etc..

284.32 RWHP and 331.1 RWTQ
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post #7 of 9 Old 08-30-2004, 01:48 PM
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Mustang 393...

I just installed the Taylor Aluminum box in my 92 and ran it long ways. For the outer bolt I had go through the framerail (you will need a long drill bit for this) and the inner bolt I drilled a hole about an inch from the spare tire well. I put the box about an inch in front of the plug since I didn't want it sitting on it. The Taylor box comes with a template too which makes it nice and easy to drill and install. You will also have to cut the threaded rod a couple inches for the inner rod since it will hit the hatch and you dont want to bust that glass.

Just make sure you bolt up the threaded rod before you put the the tank back up. I had the tank all bolted up and ready to go and realized the I forgot to put the nut on the rod by the spare tire well. So I had to rip it off and start all over again.

Also make sure you ground your block from where the original ground wire was on from the battery to the Sway bar bushing plate. Along with the ground on the back of course.

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Spec Stage 2 clutch, Steeda cable, firewall adjuster, Aluminum driveshaft, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3.73 gears, BBK rear upper/lower control arms, Ford Racing Tach, Taylor battery trunk mount, MSD 6-AL, MMFL Sub-Frame Connectors, Nitto 555R's


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post #8 of 9 Old 08-30-2004, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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92mufdvr, thanks man...I am gonna have to go get a long ass 3/8" drill bit then, and hope for the best....Thanks for the detailed explanation that is exactly what the doctor ordered

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post #9 of 9 Old 09-01-2004, 06:08 AM
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Let me know if y'all had hot starting problems after the relocation...I am.

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