Battery relocation now car won't start? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 50 Old 05-17-2004, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Angry Battery relocation now car won't start?

I hook up all the wiring how buffhomer web page said too. The accessories lights, stereo, fuel pump all come on, but it does not start. No cranking what so ever. I have a MSD 6al ground it to the radiator shroud on top by where the neg. side of the battery use to be. Could that be it?

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post #2 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 12:16 AM
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that could be it. does it turn over and not start? I would ground your MSD box to the body of the car


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post #3 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 01:19 AM Thread Starter
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When I turn the key nothing. Like a dead battery but thats not it.

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post #4 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 02:02 AM
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ok I would still move the ground for the MSD box, but the box is not the cause or the motor would still turn over and just not start. Get out yoru tester and stick the wire at different places and see where you lose power at. Start with the power wire in the back and move forward til yu get to teh solenoide, then have someone turn the key and check for power on teh other side of the solenoide. You may have a solenoid that went bad.

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post #5 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 02:07 AM Thread Starter
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When I turn the key and check for power on the other side of the solenoid will this tell me if the solenoid is bad?

1993 GT Hatchback 351W, T5, cobra intake, edelbrock aluminum heads & 75mm tb, pro-m 80mm, 30lbs injectors, hooker headers, koni DA shocks & struts, MM front coilover kit, LCA & panhard bar, D&D a-arms, baer 13in front brakes, 5 lug cobra R rims
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post #6 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 02:21 AM
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yup

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post #7 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 04:59 AM
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my guess is you dont have a good ground to the battery. A crappy ground on the MSD wont cause the starter not to crank, it will just make for a no spark no start problem.

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post #8 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 06:00 AM Thread Starter
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Its not the solenoid I changed it out with my other stang and it still did nothing.

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Originally posted by BLiND
my guess is you dont have a good ground to the battery. A crappy ground on the MSD wont cause the starter not to crank, it will just make for a no spark no start problem.
I ran the neg side of the battery to the quad bolt and grinded it down to make sure it had good contact.
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post #9 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 07:28 AM
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There is something majorly wrong if it won't crank and you are SURE the solenoid is good. Pull out your voltmeter and check voltage at the always hot side of the solenoid. Make sure you have 12+volts. Then check the resistance between the cable that runs from the other side of the solenoid to the starter- make sure you have zero resistance (milliohms).

Then check to see if you get 12volts from the ignition wire which triggers the solenoid. You'll need someones' help with this part.

Just double check everything with a voltmeter/ ohmmeter.

YOu'll find it.

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post #10 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 12:56 PM
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ground

I've also found that the solenoid itself will need to be grounded if you've moved it to the rear. It is screwed to the fender by a metal backing plate.


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post #11 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 02:03 PM
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Try grounding the engine to the frame. Clean off all the crud and bolt a new cable to it. Do a temperary cable to the same spot as your battery is grounded (the quad shock mount) to and see if that doesn't help.


just my .02
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post #12 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 03:49 PM
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run around with a voltmeter, maybe one of your splices into the 2 or 0 or 00 gauge cable came loose, happened to me.

careful, can cause a fire.

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post #13 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Ok 12+volts at the battery on/off. 12+volts at the solenoid on/off. I clean the ground area around the sway bar bolt that grounds the engine block ground and the smaller wire that on the inner fender. When I checked the ground area on the sway bar ground it read 0.1-.3 on the voltmeter power on. Still nothing!!

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post #14 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 08:46 PM
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like 93-ex-chp said check all of yoru connections one may not be making good contactr, how ever you will knwo that if yo udon;t have power at teh front of the car, where did you mount teh solenoide at?

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post #15 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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The solenoid is still in the factory location. Can I rule out the power wire from the battery to the solenoid sence its getting 12+volts?

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post #16 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 09:45 PM
 
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Well, it must be contagous!

I went out to start my 92 GT and wouldn't you know it, IT WON'T TURN OVER. It clicks and then it all goes dead. Is there a circuit breaker or something that needs to reset. I turn off the key and the interior light will come back on(with the door open). I turn the key to the on position the fuel pump comes on but when I try to start it...click...and all goes dead again. Tried it with a brand new Optma red top battery...same thing.

I'm thinking starter is locked up...what do you think?

Could it be the same thing for 351GT's situation?
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post #17 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I hook up a remote starter switch to the solenoid with the key on and it Started. Though when I use the key to start it still nothing do I have another problem? Where should I check now?

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post #18 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 10:34 PM
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you got an auto or t-5


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post #19 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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t-5

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post #20 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 11:02 PM
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you either have a bad solenoid or something hooked up wrong.

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post #21 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 11:03 PM
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explorer it sounds to me like your starter is froze, you can try to hit it with a hammer to see if it unlocks it. If it does work that is only a temp fix and you will still need a new starter as this is going to happen again. replace the solenoid when you replace the starter. they usually go out around the same time of each other.

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post #22 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by FordFreak300
you either have a bad solenoid or something hooked up wrong.
I know its not the solenoid because I put it on my other mustang and it worked fine. As far as something hooked up wrong on the solenoid the battery power wire, pos starter wire, grounds are on one side and the neg. starter wire is the only thing on the other side. It looks like what I have on my other stang.
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post #23 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 11:24 PM
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wait you should have the power wire and all the accessory wires on one side of the solenoid, then a power wire off the other side of the solinoid to the starter, in between the 2 big posts there is a small post that gets the ground wire.

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post #24 of 50 Old 05-18-2004, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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So the power wire for the starter on one side of the solenoid and the neg. wire for the starter on the other side with the accessory wires and positive battery wire?

1993 GT Hatchback 351W, T5, cobra intake, edelbrock aluminum heads & 75mm tb, pro-m 80mm, 30lbs injectors, hooker headers, koni DA shocks & struts, MM front coilover kit, LCA & panhard bar, D&D a-arms, baer 13in front brakes, 5 lug cobra R rims
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post #25 of 50 Old 05-19-2004, 12:16 AM
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yeah, but teh other wire goign to teh starter isn;t called a negative wire it is another posotive wire. WHat the solenoid does is cut off the power until the key is turned inside the car, once you turn that key then the solenoid allows the power to travel through it and engage your starter, it is a fancy switch, handles teh same function as a light switch in your house. The reason we have to use a soenoid is that if the power went to the starter continuously then it would always be engaged and contacting teh fly whel which as we knwo would be bad news and burn up the starter in no time flat as well as put a huge strain on the motor. the left side of the solenoid gets the power wire from teh battery as well as all the accessories the right side of the solenoid gets the power wire that goes to the starter, the small post on teh bottom is a ground wire that comes from yrou ignition and has a push on type terminal and has to be connected to allow the solenoid to function. If you have a digital camera take a pic of your solenoid and let me see what you have going on.

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post #26 of 50 Old 05-19-2004, 12:17 AM
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if yu have a truck and trailer and feel liek spending a few hours driving yu can bring it up to my house and I will fix it if need be. I don't knwo if you have access to a truck and trailer or not and I'm not driving down to diego lol... But yu can feel free to come up here and I will look at it in person and run down the problem.

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post #27 of 50 Old 05-19-2004, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
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Ok I hook up the power wire for the starter on one side and power wire for the battery and accessories on the other in the pic first pic bellow. I did not work and it did not start and something started to burn NOT GOOD. So I unhooked the battery real quick. The second pic is all of the wires to the solenoid the one with the yellow paper through it is a large wire that I have a smaller power wires hooked to like alarm, electric fan ect. What side of the solenoid should I hooked these wires up to? thanks


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post #28 of 50 Old 05-19-2004, 01:50 AM Thread Starter
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Ok hooked the wires back up like I had it before when it started with the remote starter and this time it did not start so now I guess I will see if I burned up a wire or the starter. *****

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post #29 of 50 Old 05-19-2004, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by FordFreak300
explorer it sounds to me like your starter is froze....
Bless his heart....

No the starter isn't frozen if it starts with the remote switch.....

This is telling you that either the solenoid's internal switch is bad or you are not getting an ignition switch signal TO the solenoid.

Try running a 12V wire from the battery to the ignition switch terminal on the solenoid and see if it starts. If it does, that tells you your ignition switch side of the circuit is bad. If it doesn't start then you know at least your solenoid is bad.

Hope this helps.

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post #30 of 50 Old 05-19-2004, 09:26 AM
 
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A bad inginion swithc can cause this. It will not start by the key, you have to get out and jump the solenoid over.

With a factory starter you will have just the 1 wire from the starter solenoid to the starter by itself. On the side with the battery connection everything else gets hooked to since it is 12+ all the time.

For some simple diagnostics and to keep from burning stuff up remove the starter wire from the solenoid.
using a test light first recheck you have power on the battery side of solenoid. Then removing the small push on connector wedge the test light in it or have someone hold it on the wire you just pulled and turn key to start, when it is at start you should have 12+ that is triggering the solenoid. If none there look at the ignition switch. If you do have power there hook it back up to the solenoid and this time put test light on the empty starter post and again turn key to start, should have 12+ if not the solenoid is bad. If so look at regrounding the engine to the frame and or having the starter tested.
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post #31 of 50 Old 05-19-2004, 11:04 AM
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Where is the battery grounded in the hatch area?? I moved my battery last night. I first grounded the battery to the side metal in the truck. I had a good ground there ( bare metal ) and the engine is grounded to teh frame and body of the car. Problem is that the side sheet metal doesnt provide enough of a ground to carry the current the hot wire needs to start the car (Bad ground no matter if you are showing bare metal or not/ I moved the ground to the floor of the trunk and it cranks better than it did with the battery int he front of the car. Im using 2/0 hot wire from the battery to the solenoid, 2/0 ground at the battery and from the block to the frame and a 2.0 from the solenoid to the starter.

This is a big block car to, so the under hood heat makes it harder to start. It starts like a brand new car now.

They say what goes up must come down but I ain't reached my cruising altitude.
Take a look at what I did but can you imagine what I'm about to do.
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post #32 of 50 Old 05-19-2004, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Leadsled Coupe
Bless his heart....

No the starter isn't frozen if it starts with the remote switch.....

This is telling you that either the solenoid's internal switch is bad or you are not getting an ignition switch signal TO the solenoid.

Try running a 12V wire from the battery to the ignition switch terminal on the solenoid and see if it starts. If it does, that tells you your ignition switch side of the circuit is bad. If it doesn't start then you know at least your solenoid is bad.

Hope this helps.

Umm well in that post where you were quoting me I was answering explorer's question, he is not the one who started his car with a remote starter. try reading just a little closer to the entire thread before quoting someone and saying they are wrong please. thank you...

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post #33 of 50 Old 05-20-2004, 07:05 AM
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My apologies. I wasn't paying enough attention.

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post #34 of 50 Old 05-20-2004, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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Ok I change the solenoid and hook up the remote starter and the car started again. Though it still is not starting from the key. So where should I look?

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post #35 of 50 Old 05-20-2004, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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I check the fuse link the three wires that go into one yellow wire that hooks to the solenoid and they all seem to be the same size and don't look blown. I have brake lights and read in another thread that when the fuse link maybe blown that the brake light dont work. I know that of the three wires that the yellow one is the ignition. Where else should I check?

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