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post #1 of 9 Old 05-01-2004, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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battery relocation

battery relocation
I was thinkin bout makin my own battery box..Is there anything i should watch out for while makin it considering i will need to pass tech b/c ill be runnin true street and things like that when they come near town. Also can i just put this above the carpet? I was thinkin about getting some alumin steel and just fabing it in a box with a top then have a latch on it and ordering the relocation kit from jegs that include the wires.


2006 F-150 King Ranch, Supercrew- Stock for the time being

1991 Gt Alot of Team Z stuff, Strange stuff, Big round Percision thingy.
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-01-2004, 07:30 PM
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hatches have to have a sealed box and be vented outside the car


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post #3 of 9 Old 05-02-2004, 03:16 AM
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sounds like a waste just buy an already made box for like 10 bucks at wal-mart and if its not stout enuf which is will be if you set it up right then mod it from there

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post #4 of 9 Old 05-02-2004, 09:30 AM
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Read the NHRA rules. If you have a hatchback, you need a sealed box with a minimum thickness. It needs to be vented to the outside. The battery also has to be held down by at least a 3/8" bolt I believe.
A plastic marine battery won't cut it. Here is a pic of my settup. It is a summit box.

.

They have since come out with a new aluminum box that does not bolt together. It is much nicer and has a good lid. I believe it is around $110. In my opinion, no nicer battery box exists. I was able to fit a heavy duty flamming river cuttoff switch, and the starter solenoid in the box along with an optima red top. Makes for a clean installation and keeps all the wires inside the box where they can't contact anything.
You are about to embark on a wiring journey which is not easy to do correctly. Wiring a rear mount battery in a EFI car safely and track legal is not easy. If not wired correctly, you may damage your alternator, computer, or create fire hazards. Do some research and you may find a few posts which are useful to give you more info.
If you really want some expert advice, contact Mark at Madelectrical.com
He can answer all your questions and tell you exactly why certain things should be wired a certain way. You may even learn a few extra things to boot.

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post #5 of 9 Old 05-02-2004, 11:57 AM
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i made a bat box out of 20 ga stainless
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-02-2004, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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well my dad owns a misc steel company and i was goign to get a .13" alumn and get one of the guys to make a nice bead welds that similiar to the one thats not bolted but how would i keep the battery in there not moving?thanks for all the help

2006 F-150 King Ranch, Supercrew- Stock for the time being

1991 Gt Alot of Team Z stuff, Strange stuff, Big round Percision thingy.
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Last edited by Sidewayzisbest; 05-02-2004 at 08:53 PM.
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-02-2004, 10:23 PM
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You'll need a type of u-bolt that goes over the battery and down through the bottom of the box. Then securely fastened to the sheetmetal. This will most likely involve using some large fender washers to spread the load over the thin floorpan or making a custom bracket which is sturdy.

Paul

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post #8 of 9 Old 05-02-2004, 10:40 PM
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Instead of a u-bolt, you can just use 2 long pieces of all thread, one on either side of the battery, with a piece to connect them that holds the battery down (basically making a u-bolt) and then a nut on each piece of all thread. That way if you want to take the battery out, all you have to do is take the nuts off the all thread and pull it out.

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post #9 of 9 Old 05-03-2004, 10:39 PM
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See if this pic works and you can see the way I did it (with the Taylor kit). I had to double nut the hold down since the nuts came loose once and the battery moved.

http://buffhomer.corral.net/images/taylor_box2.jpg
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