Battery Relocation - cable routing - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 29 Old 02-01-2004, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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Battery Relocation - cable routing

I am planing to relocate my battery to the trunk on my 89 Fox body with the available legal battery boxes. One question, what is the best way or legal way to run the positive cable from the battery to the starter solenoid under the hood? Can you run the cable on the interior side of the floor boards and through the firewall or does it have to run underneath the car and if so on the inside or the outside of the frame rails to be legal? Thanks for the help.

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post #2 of 29 Old 02-01-2004, 10:12 AM
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you can run the cable through the car, i feel it is safer going through the car, you figure the cable is vulnerable to outside road debris etc. i just completed my battery relocation and i ran both the charge and solenoid wire through the car. BTW be sure you use large welding cable for your charge and solenoid wires, i used 1/0 for the solenoid and 2ga for the charge wire.


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post #3 of 29 Old 02-01-2004, 11:28 PM
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BLOWN1989SALEEN,
What's the difference between 1/0 and 2ga? Strand? Size or both?
I'm currently using a 2ga(battery cable from Summitt) to solenoid, and having a hard time starting when engine is hot. I ran a think a 2/0 to alternator.
I purchased 2/0 wire (battery cable not welding) and gonna try that to solenoid (from battery cut off; relocated battery to back).
My ground is to the frame rail below battery. Also gonna run separate ground (4ga) from battery to starter.
Trying all kinds of S**T, this problems really pissing me off!
Thanks for any help!

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post #4 of 29 Old 02-01-2004, 11:33 PM
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I use welding cable in 2ga and ran it in the car. This is legal and accepted thru the major racing sanctions as a mute and unspoken topic, so it is legal, just be smart and run it in non-abrasive paths to create shorts. I grounded the battery to the body and ground the engine to the body. No charging, hot start issues, or anything else. Is the flex mulitstrand welding cable. Much more flexible and easier to run.

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post #5 of 29 Old 02-02-2004, 12:38 AM
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1trkpny, are you running long tubes? do you have a stock starter?or a mini starter. If so, your starter could be getting heat soaked and thats why your getting a problem. Im using 2guage from the Taylor kit and have yet to have a problem. Its been freezing here in NY lately and its never presented a problem
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post #6 of 29 Old 02-02-2004, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 1trkpny
BLOWN1989SALEEN,
What's the difference between 1/0 and 2ga? Strand? Size or both?
I'm currently using a 2ga(battery cable from Summitt) to solenoid, and having a hard time starting when engine is hot. I ran a think a 2/0 to alternator.
I purchased 2/0 wire (battery cable not welding) and gonna try that to solenoid (from battery cut off; relocated battery to back).
My ground is to the frame rail below battery. Also gonna run separate ground (4ga) from battery to starter.
Trying all kinds of S**T, this problems really pissing me off!
Thanks for any help!
the 2ga included in your kit consist of several large strands,whereas the welding cable consist of many times more smaller strands that carry current well and is very flexible also. do yourself a favor and go with the 1/0 and 2ga WELDING cable it is way more flexible and easier to work with Again my setup goes like this. 1/0 from the battery POS+ to the cutoff switch, 1/0 from the other side of the cutoff switch to the solenoid, 1/0 from battery NEG- to quad shock mount, 2ga from the alternator to the cutoff switch. and a 2ga ground from the timing cover to the swaybar mount.



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post #7 of 29 Old 02-02-2004, 05:24 PM
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It's not NHRA legal to run a fuel line and/or battery cable thru the interior of the car.

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post #8 of 29 Old 02-02-2004, 06:15 PM
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Why wouldnt it be legal to run a battery cable through the car? Just curious... I never knew that.

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post #9 of 29 Old 02-02-2004, 06:40 PM
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I don't know? You'd have to ask NHRA on that question i'm just following the rules.

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post #10 of 29 Old 02-02-2004, 07:14 PM
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I dont see in the rulebook where you cant run the lines through the car. It states the battery itself cant be in the passenger compartment but no mention of the lines? Not denying you but can you tell me where you see the rule? Thanks

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post #11 of 29 Old 02-02-2004, 07:16 PM
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The battery can even be inside if its in a NHRA approved box and vented outside.
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post #12 of 29 Old 02-02-2004, 08:46 PM
 
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The ran the + bat cable and the alternator cable inside under the passenger seat, then through the floor and along the subframe connector next the the fuel line. The bad part is there's only a couple inches at most between the cables/lines and the header on that side, but I've never had any trouble this way. I'm not one of those guys who would "post a pic of my engine bay" as I really don't care about wiring as long as it's relatively neat, safe, and works. The cable is running along the factory harness at the firewall. I left all my efi wiring in and covered everything with conduit. Looks better than red wires everywhere. People still ask all the time what in the hell all the wires are for. I built the car for me though, I could care less what anyone else thinks because 9 times out of 10 they have more money than me anyways. On the flip side, 9 times out of 10 they know little about cars, so it's all good........
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post #13 of 29 Old 02-02-2004, 09:12 PM
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I have tubular sub framing on my car, so I ran the cable inside it and then up past the long tubes, no problem, been 7 years, and a good bit of that time there was turbo on there. I would suggest you make sure your motor to ground connections are strong, I have one on both motor mounts. Also make sure your battery to ground connection is good, try to find those star washers that dig into the metal if you can. If not, use a wire brush and expose the metal where you make your connections, this will help any potential hard cranking problems.

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post #14 of 29 Old 02-02-2004, 09:29 PM
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That's how i ran my battery cable on car as well.

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post #15 of 29 Old 02-02-2004, 09:34 PM
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I have a new stock starter (heat wrapped), shorty headers.

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1989 GT:Ford Stroker 347, S-trim,TFS CNC 205, RPM II, Dynamic C4, Megasquirt, Baseline rear, UPR front.
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post #16 of 29 Old 02-02-2004, 09:39 PM
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You bought the stock starter with that motor combo? Seems odd that you didnt buy a mini hi torque unit. Thats all I have and it cranks my motor fine (when timing is retarded).

93 LX Old Engine: Best N2O run [email protected], 60' of 1.59 (slicks). N/A pass 12.52 @109.28 (slicks).

New Engine Probe pistons, Eagle rods, Probe EFI Pro Mustang Intake, N/A 12.8 @ 110 no tune, street tires,wrong MSD pill (5800 rpm).

95 Crown Vic P71 Cop tires, 351 DOHC engine, bulletproof glass, supercharged, NOS injection, and all the other good stuff that people tell me I have!

02 GSXR 600 11.2 @ 123 FOR SALE $5500 OBO All kinds of extras, 1 year of warranty left!!!
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post #17 of 29 Old 02-03-2004, 02:10 PM
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Any progress on if the wires really have to be outside or not?

-Dale
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Fox 75mm TB, FTI Ported Edelbrock Perf RPM, 58cc AFR 165s, FTI Cam, 4.10s, Drag Susp, PMS Tuned by Mike Post
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post #18 of 29 Old 02-03-2004, 03:13 PM
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Dude they dont check that crap at the track! Do as you find easier. If they had to tech all the cars at the track by the book, it would take an hour each car. Unless you are running NHRA or EFI renegade or better, nobody is going to look at where your wires run. Just make sure you have the cutoff switch easily visable. (A tip, put some silicone sealant between the switch and the body so that water doesnt get in there and start to rust).

93 LX Old Engine: Best N2O run [email protected], 60' of 1.59 (slicks). N/A pass 12.52 @109.28 (slicks).

New Engine Probe pistons, Eagle rods, Probe EFI Pro Mustang Intake, N/A 12.8 @ 110 no tune, street tires,wrong MSD pill (5800 rpm).

95 Crown Vic P71 Cop tires, 351 DOHC engine, bulletproof glass, supercharged, NOS injection, and all the other good stuff that people tell me I have!

02 GSXR 600 11.2 @ 123 FOR SALE $5500 OBO All kinds of extras, 1 year of warranty left!!!
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post #19 of 29 Old 02-03-2004, 03:25 PM
 
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The wires can be run through the car!

I know because my son and I are currently relocating the battery to the trunk of his '69 Camaro, and we had the same question. He wanted to run the wires inside and I thought that doing so was against NHRA rules. So he e-mailed NHRA tech, and they replied that there were no rules against running the wires in the car.

As a result, we will be running the wires inside the car, just like my son wanted to do in the first place. I could have sworn that the wires had to be outside the passenger compartment, but I guess I was wrong.
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post #20 of 29 Old 02-03-2004, 04:23 PM
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I was going to say.... I was almost 100 % positive that you could run them inside the car.

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post #21 of 29 Old 02-03-2004, 04:34 PM
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Well i guess you can but i don't want any battery cables inside my car at all,you'd be surprised how many racers run there battery cables on the outside of the race cars.

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post #22 of 29 Old 02-03-2004, 04:55 PM
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Mine is outside also pure but by the rules it doesnt have to be.
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post #23 of 29 Old 02-04-2004, 01:34 AM
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Running welding cable outside the car is PERFECTLY fine. Welding cable is designed to be abused and subjected to the elements.

I've had my car like that for nearly 4 years now.

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post #24 of 29 Old 02-04-2004, 09:26 AM
 
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Mine are outside too, but there is nothing in the rulebook about not running them inside. I chose outside for safety reasons, if there is ever a direct short that cables is gonna get damn hot and most likely light you carpet on fire. Not as much of a chance of catostrophic fire with the cable outside, assuming your not routed next to the fuel lines.
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post #25 of 29 Old 02-04-2004, 10:00 AM
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Any pics of inside or outside routing? I'd like some ideas. Right now I'm thinking inside the scuff guard pannels. (Anyone know if the 1/0 gauge will fit? lol)

Sorry one more question. I'm using buffhomer's diagram for the install. Would there be any harm in routing the 1/0 cable to the fuse box instead of directly to the starter solenoid? My figuring is that the starter solenoid cable goes to the fuse box anyways so I would avoid having to route the cable to the solenoid by going straight to the fuse box and using the existing attachment from the fuse box to the solenoid to power the solenoid. (1994 GT)

-Dale

-Dale
1994 Mustang GT TKO 500 5 spd
Fox 75mm TB, FTI Ported Edelbrock Perf RPM, 58cc AFR 165s, FTI Cam, 4.10s, Drag Susp, PMS Tuned by Mike Post
316 RWHP & 335 RWTQ // 3,225 lbs with driver and fuel // 11.919 @ 113.92 All Motor

Last edited by FastGT94; 02-04-2004 at 11:11 AM.
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post #26 of 29 Old 02-04-2004, 12:01 PM
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I would say absolutly not on an 87-93, but Im not sure how the 94-95s were setup electrically. If it were me, I would run it to the solenoid, isnt this where the stock battery cable runs to anyhow, or does it run into the fusebox on the 94-95s? If you run a larger gauge wire to the fuse box (from battery) than is stock from solenoid to fusebox, I would not wire it to the fuse box. Sorry I dont have any pics of that area of my car.

93 LX Old Engine: Best N2O run [email protected], 60' of 1.59 (slicks). N/A pass 12.52 @109.28 (slicks).

New Engine Probe pistons, Eagle rods, Probe EFI Pro Mustang Intake, N/A 12.8 @ 110 no tune, street tires,wrong MSD pill (5800 rpm).

95 Crown Vic P71 Cop tires, 351 DOHC engine, bulletproof glass, supercharged, NOS injection, and all the other good stuff that people tell me I have!

02 GSXR 600 11.2 @ 123 FOR SALE $5500 OBO All kinds of extras, 1 year of warranty left!!!

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post #27 of 29 Old 02-04-2004, 02:33 PM
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Yeah there's one cable from the battery to the solenoid and another from the battery to the fusebox so 2 cables coming from the (+) of the battery

-Dale
1994 Mustang GT TKO 500 5 spd
Fox 75mm TB, FTI Ported Edelbrock Perf RPM, 58cc AFR 165s, FTI Cam, 4.10s, Drag Susp, PMS Tuned by Mike Post
316 RWHP & 335 RWTQ // 3,225 lbs with driver and fuel // 11.919 @ 113.92 All Motor
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post #28 of 29 Old 06-20-2004, 12:31 AM
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I know its an old thread...does anyone have any pics of their battery relocation cable routing (outside the car) that they can post? I'm trying to get ideas on how to run the cable on my Fox body hatch.
Thanks!
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post #29 of 29 Old 06-21-2004, 08:59 AM
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I ran mine inside the car. But I think most people are zip tieing them to the sides of the subframe connectors. I'd use some of that plastic wire loom stuff too when you do it.

-Dale
1994 Mustang GT TKO 500 5 spd
Fox 75mm TB, FTI Ported Edelbrock Perf RPM, 58cc AFR 165s, FTI Cam, 4.10s, Drag Susp, PMS Tuned by Mike Post
316 RWHP & 335 RWTQ // 3,225 lbs with driver and fuel // 11.919 @ 113.92 All Motor
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