130amp 3g Alternator and Battery Relocation and Disconnect Switch - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 05-29-2003, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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130amp 3g Alternator and Battery Relocation and Disconnect Switch

Well I have to redo my battery relocation to make it NHRA legal and am following the following link as a reference.

http://buffhomer.corral.net/custom.html

I don’t understand which wire he is talking about here:

“--If you have a 3G alternator--
*** One thing to note, if you have upgraded to a 3G alternator, the black/orange-striped charging wire will need to be pulled off the alternator's charging post and covered, then run the new 2ga charge wire from the charging post to the back as in the diagram. (The stock size is 4ga I believe, but use 2ga for better chargine) If you follow the black/orange striped wire you'll see that it goes to the starter solenoid. Do NOT pull the black/orange-striped wire off the starter solenoid, as you will have inadvertently also pulled off another wire that the regulator uses to sense voltage. It ties into this black/orange-striped wire about 5" or so before the starter solenoid so it can read the voltage at the solenoid and get a true sense of what the alternator needs to put out.”

Which black/orange wire is he talking about. When I swapped to the 130A Alternator I used the PA performance wiring kit, and I only have one main charging wire going back to alternator. I can’t remember if I already did what he is talking about when I did the swap. Isn’t that part of the 130A upgrade process anyway?

Thanks,


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post #2 of 7 Old 05-29-2003, 11:43 AM
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From the solenoid end, it is only one wire. When it connects to the alternator, it splits into two. This is because the stock plastic connector has connections for both wires. If you installed the kit per the alternator (in my case, PA Performance) instructions, it has you cut the wires to the plastic connector, and put round eyelets on the ends of both wires. Both eyelets connect to the alternator. It's a little confusing, since some alternators might have different instructions than others. Sounds like he had just one power wire going from his alternator to his solenoid, mine started out as two.

Basically, just disconnect the power wire(s) that go from the alternator to the solenoid from the 'alternator' and just tape them up and zip tie them out of the way. Leave the end of that same wire on the solenoid alone. Then run a new power wire back to the trunk to the cutoff switch.

With the alternator install you still have the solenoid connected to the alternator, but with the cutoff switch install you are instead running the alternator power wire back to the battery, then through the cutoff switch, back up to the solenoid. It is the point of failure when you hit your cutoff switch.


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post #3 of 7 Old 05-29-2003, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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I am a little confused at this point, because I am at work and can’t remember what I did during the install. But I remember cutting back one wire and then using a white spade connector, but I only have one wire on my main charging post is this correct? (it’s the 4 gauge from PA).

I don't remember the eyelets. I need some pictures

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post #4 of 7 Old 05-29-2003, 03:23 PM
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Re: 130 3g Alt and Battery Relocation and Disconnect Switch

Quote:
Originally posted by Tony91LX
Well I have to redo my battery relocation to make it NHRA legal and am following the following link as a reference.

http://buffhomer.corral.net/custom.html

I don’t understand which wire he is talking about here:

“--If you have a 3G alternator--
*** One thing to note, if you have upgraded to a 3G alternator, the black/orange-striped charging wire will need to be pulled off the alternator's charging post and covered, then run the new 2ga charge wire from the charging post to the back as in the diagram. (The stock size is 4ga I believe, but use 2ga for better chargine) If you follow the black/orange striped wire you'll see that it goes to the starter solenoid. Do NOT pull the black/orange-striped wire off the starter solenoid, as you will have inadvertently also pulled off another wire that the regulator uses to sense voltage. It ties into this black/orange-striped wire about 5" or so before the starter solenoid so it can read the voltage at the solenoid and get a true sense of what the alternator needs to put out.”

Which black/orange wire is he talking about. When I swapped to the 130A Alternator I used the PA performance wiring kit, and I only have one main charging wire going back to alternator. I can’t remember if I already did what he is talking about when I did the swap. Isn’t that part of the 130A upgrade process anyway?

Thanks,
When you upgrade to a 3G from the stock 2G, the black/orange striped wire(s) are on the rectangular shaped plug that you discard. I dunno how PA does it, but I have a diagram on another page on my site showing the simple way to upgrade to a 3G. Take a peek at that and you can reference what wire(s) I mean. They start out as 2 separate black/orange striped wires on the rectangular plug but about 6" back they merge together into one large black/orange striped wire and go on over to the starter solenoid.

I guess I need to reword that paragraph you mentioned to say "...if you have upgraded to a 3G alternator, the black/orange-striped charging wires will need to..." to correspond with my 3G upgrade diagram (as it simply puts an eyelet connector on each of the 2 smaller black/orange striped wires).

You're already ahead of the game. Yes, you only have one charging wire on the back of the alternator, it is the same as the 2 black/orange striped wires with eyelets in my diagram. You simply need to take off the charging wire that's on the back of the alternator, cover it up and run the new 2ga cable to the back of the car. I assume your single charging wire that PA supplied with the kit goes over to the starter solenoid?

Shizer, I need to reword that caca. Too many people use that PA crap and that screws everything up, lol. BTW, do you have a scanner? Can you email me the PA instructions to I can include them in my site? [email protected]

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Last edited by buffhomer; 05-29-2003 at 03:29 PM.
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post #5 of 7 Old 05-29-2003, 04:07 PM
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Yeah, I originally had the two eyelet thing, but when I did the cutoff switch, I just ran one large 1/O wire to the switch.

Check your PM...

92 GT Vert, Keith Craft 306, SQ-Trim w/Power Cooler, Edelbrock 6037's/Performer intake, FTI cam, 60's, Walbro GSS340, T-56 6-speed, Spec Stage Three, Baer Brakes, Griggs Suspension, 3.55's. Best time - 11.56 @ 121.75, 1.78 60' on ET Streets (7.48 @ 95.69 1/8th) - with E-303 cam, 500 rwhp/463 rwtq
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post #6 of 7 Old 05-30-2003, 12:53 AM
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Ah, I updated the site to include the PA instructions. Let me know if it needs any more revamping.
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post #7 of 7 Old 05-30-2003, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by buffhomer
Ah, I updated the site to include the PA instructions. Let me know if it needs any more revamping.
Good instructions are now even better...

92 GT Vert, Keith Craft 306, SQ-Trim w/Power Cooler, Edelbrock 6037's/Performer intake, FTI cam, 60's, Walbro GSS340, T-56 6-speed, Spec Stage Three, Baer Brakes, Griggs Suspension, 3.55's. Best time - 11.56 @ 121.75, 1.78 60' on ET Streets (7.48 @ 95.69 1/8th) - with E-303 cam, 500 rwhp/463 rwtq
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