using Welding Cable for battery relocation - Ford Mustang Forums : Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 4 Old 02-19-2003, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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using Welding Cable for battery relocation

My plan is to follow Buffhomer's wiring diagram for mounting my battery in the hatch of my '89 LX.

But does anyone have and idea of what Welding Cable usually goes for per foot? Also what is the best way to attach the crimp ends onto the welding cable?

Any other tips you guys have would be helpful.

1989 LX 5.0 - AFR 165 heads, FTI cam, ported Edelbrock Performer, 70mm TB, Tweecer R/T, 306 w stock crank/rods and Ross pistons, MAC 1 5/8 long tubes, Lentech Strip Terminator Lockup and 3800 stall, 3.55 gears, Zex 125 shot

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post #2 of 4 Old 02-19-2003, 12:02 PM
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I paid $1.25 per foot of 1/o welding cable. As for the best way to lug the ends, probably soldering. I just crimped the hell out of the lug with plyers though.

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TFS stage 2 twisted wedge Heads.TFS track heat intake.Ultradyne Cam.#24 inj.190 lph fuel pump.70mm TB.75mm MAF.1 3/4 Long Tubes.hpipe.Flowmasters.1.6 roller rockers.C4 reverse pattern.3000 stall.3.73.electric fan. eibach springs.battery relocation.3g Alt.MSD 6AL.Autometer Phantom Guages.99 Brakes.95 Rear End.93 Cobra brake booster.99 Cobra Wheels.Eaton Posi.Moser 31 Spline Axles.GP CC Plates.Diamond Clears
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post #3 of 4 Old 02-19-2003, 02:11 PM
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About $1/ft is average. There are places around here that sell it for more and less.

To attach the ends, I used a really cool method that I read about on here a long time ago. Basically you buy a big spool of solder, copper lug ends of the right size for your cable, and a propane torch. Strip the insulation back off the cable, test fitting it in the lug to see when you have stripped enough. Put the lug in a vise with the opening facing up like a cup. Your goal here is to fill the "cup" of the lug with melted solder. Unravel a bunch of solder off the spool and heat the lug with the torch. When the lug is hot, keep the torch on it and feed in the solder. The solder will melt as you feed it in, so just stop when the lug is nearly full of solder. Finally, jam the stripped end of the cable into the melted solder, position it the way you want it, and take the torch off the lug when you're done. After it cools a little, you can wrap a little electrical tape around the cable/lug joint or put some heat-shrink tubing over it (what I did). The lug will be very secure when you are done... the only thing that will get it off is holding a torch to it until the solder melts. Just be careful when you are jamming the cable into the melted solder, because the excess melted solder will spill out the side and it is very hot. When you've done a couple lugs, you'll start to figure out just how far to fill them so they don't spill over so much.

Good luck, it's pretty easy.
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post #4 of 4 Old 02-19-2003, 02:25 PM
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greg66---Yep, that's a great method and several people have used it no problem. Personally I just put the cables into the lugs and "crimped" them by putting the tip of a big screwdriver to 'em and hitting it with a hammer.

I believe my cable was $1.25 a foot.

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