you know there are circuits hot all the time
you remove neg off of batt and measure you will see a 12 volt drop
not weird at all
you can have circuits back feed through loads all the time normal
you need to measure actual current to to find the draw effectively
shall we test?
i do elec diag for a living and for fun
1. battery is in trunk.
2. neg cable from battery goes to frame ground by quad shock.
3. positive cable goes from battery to isolated stud in trunk. 3' of cable between stud and battery.
4. then from that "+" stud in trunk approx 15' of cable to starter solenoid, where all the cars 12v fusible links tie into just like from the factory.
5. connecting amp meter between neg battery stud and negative battery cable, i see a .25-.32 amp reading on the meter.
NOTE: the test light will also light if i substitute the amp meter for the test light.
6. when i isolate the "+" terminal on the starter solenoid, so it is not hooked up to any wiring, i still see the draw, and the light goes on.
7. when i disconnect the positive battery cable in the trunk, isolating the 15' of cable between the trunk and the starter solenoid, amp meter shows no draw (0.00) and the test light goes out.
-if i reconnect just the isolated 15' of cable between the trunk and the starter solenoid(all wires disconnected from the starter solenoid) the draw comes back and the test light will light.
NOTE: i am not using the meter and test light at same time, just one or the other
this would indicate to me there is something drawing a load between the trunk positive post and the end of that 15' of wire.
just not sure why this is happening. my only thought is unless its grounded somewhere in that 15' of wire....
any thoughts appreciated, this is weird, at least to me...