Brake lights stay on after replacing brake light switch - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 01-20-2018, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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Brake lights stay on after replacing brake light switch

I've got a perplexing issue with my 95 V6 mustang coupe. Recently, I noticed the brake lights would stay on after I shut off the car. A little investigating pointed me to the brake light switch (brake on/off switch). I replaced it, but I'm still having the same issue, only now, it's intermittent (which means I'm not entirely sure it was the switch). Sometimes the lights stay on and sometimes they don't. Also, after replacing the brake light switch, I now do not have cruise control, which I believe has a connection somewhere with the brake and the clutch. Maybe I inadvertently did something when I replaced the switch. I haven't gone back out to tinker with it at all since we had a stretch of freezing weather and my garage is not insulated, but if anybody's got any advice, I'm all ears.

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post #2 of 18 Old 01-22-2018, 08:37 PM
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it must be incorrectly install, or the incorrect one

there are different ones, when angled wrong, will hit the stop that closes the switch


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post #3 of 18 Old 01-22-2018, 09:19 PM
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^^^ +1

Another thing that I have seen on manual transmission cars, if you have one, is sometimes the wires running above the clutch pedal will fall/droop and rub the insulation bare. This can also result in a short to ground and blow the fuse.

Next time the brake light sticks, crawl under there and see if the switch is activated. If it is, check your install/part #. If not it's probably something else

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post #4 of 18 Old 01-22-2018, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced it with this one:

LRS-13480B: 1994-2004 Mustang Brake Light Switch from LMR.

Yesterday I also tried taking it off the brake pedal completely and just testing it by pressing down on it. Didn't work. No matter where I pressed on the switch, the lights stayed on.

If you think I installed it incorrectly, the only thing I can think of is that the little plastic bushing that goes around the brake pedal arm pin and through the pushrod eye might be on wrong. When I took the old one off, as I was sliding everything off the pin, everything popped off at the same time and the plastic bushing and the white plastic washer fell to the floorboard. I didn't get a good look at how the plastic bushing was placed on the pin.
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post #5 of 18 Old 01-22-2018, 10:05 PM
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the eyelet of the booster rod dictates which type to use

part numbers dont do anything for me, especially from aftermarket companies

I believe yours is hitting the steering column support or is not against the flat properly

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #6 of 18 Old 01-22-2018, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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The wires look good and the fuse is fine (that's how I've been turning the brake lights off so I don't have to disconnect the battery). I'm not sure what you mean by checking if it's activated.
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post #7 of 18 Old 01-23-2018, 12:24 AM
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its a switch

see if it closed or open

that is what is meant

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #8 of 18 Old 01-23-2018, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quick update.

The switch is fine. I pulled it off to check the continuity and it's good. I could even press the switch and the multimeter would beep when the switch was closed and display a "1" when it was open.

Here's what I did find out though (not solved yet, but basic troubleshooting). When I went out to the car, I put the fuse back in. Brake lights came on as expected. I disconnected the wiring harness from the brake light switch, expecting the light to go out. It did not. A quick look at the wires and nothing appeared to be amiss, but I'll have to figure out a better way to get light under there and still be able to use two hands.
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post #9 of 18 Old 01-23-2018, 08:00 PM
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pull the fuse

test light to battery +

probe both ends of plug, sounds like a short to power

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #10 of 18 Old 01-23-2018, 08:07 PM
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I had a similar issue (same switch/parts house)....I think there was a bad batch on the switches. Test your switch but I change to Motorcraft resolved everything.


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post #11 of 18 Old 02-14-2018, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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It looks like HYBRED winds. After a significant delay, I got back out to the car today and crawled back under the dash to continue poking around. Originally, I hadn't seen any wires with any problems. This time I got underneath further to look around and somewhat behind the fuse box. When I got a flashlight under there and with the right look angle I noticed a bunch of bare wires (photo attached, I hope), where I can only assume that they had been rubbed bare by the clutch pedal (seems like a design flaw to me).

So, what I've got is a pair of wires coming from the brake light switch (one solid red, and one light green with a thin red line). That pair or wires threads up to where they meet with an electrical-taped pair of wires (I followed that to a solid light green wire and a red wire with a green line connected to a switch of some sort on the gas-pedal side of the brake push rod). Those four wires bundled together go under a metal plate. They appear to come back out on another side of the plate, which is the bundle with the bare wires. However, that bundle seems to be more than four wires wrapped by electrical tape. I have no idea what other wires are in that bundle, where they might come from, or what other ones might be damaged. And I didn't start pulling tape tonight.

The only other "electrical difficulties" I have with the car is that the cruise control doesn't work and neither the key fob nor the lock/unlock switches of either door will lock or unlock the passenger door. I figure the cruise control problem is related to the brake light problem since it gets a signal from the brake light switch. I don't know if there is a wire that might be in that bundle that would control the passenger door locks. I can't recall if the door lock stopped working around the same time as the brake light problems started.

Now it's back to the books for more research.
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File Type: jpg bare wires.jpg (63.9 KB, 22 views)
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post #12 of 18 Old 02-14-2018, 10:08 PM
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someone has had there hands in there already,,,,,,,,

ford don't use that crappy tape

and yes, if the cruise mod or ecm receives batt voltage, it is turned off

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #13 of 18 Old 02-15-2018, 07:42 PM
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Well now that you have it figured out, you can fix it.
I have seen this problem before/ fixed it before.

I won't lie, it's a PITA because of the location.

Cruise control is probably related to this.

I doubt seriously the door lock is related.

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post #14 of 18 Old 02-16-2018, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Any suggestions on the fix? I'm not confident there is enough play in the wires to cut out the bad part and splice it back together, and it looks even more difficult to replace a whole section. If you've done it before, what did you do?

Thanks.
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post #15 of 18 Old 02-16-2018, 10:22 PM
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cut them, extend them then splice

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post #16 of 18 Old 02-17-2018, 01:38 AM
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It's hard to tell by the picture but there's a chance a higher rated fuse was used in that terminal and it melted the sheath off those wires. Be sure and check that. It may be as simple as using a pic tool to separate them all and using liquid tape to seal them off, if it's not possible to get some tape up in there.
It's not really the proper way to fix it but it works in a pinch.

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post #17 of 18 Old 02-17-2018, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdpiorkowski95 View Post
Any suggestions on the fix? I'm not confident there is enough play in the wires to cut out the bad part and splice it back together, and it looks even more difficult to replace a whole section. If you've done it before, what did you do?

Thanks.
I think I removed the front seat.
Then disconnected the wires and anything else necessary to give me the room needed. Cut splice heatshrink and secured them with a zip tie

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post #18 of 18 Old 02-23-2018, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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That picture was hard enough to get. However, it was definitely rubbed bare by the top part of the clutch pedal. I worked it back and forth a few times and it rubbed every time. I'm just wondering how many wires are damaged. I don't appear to have any other electrical issues, but based on how intermittent the brake light problem was at first, who knows.

I figured I would have to remove the seat, if for no other reason that not laying upside down across the door sill. I'm too old to do that too long.

Thanks for the input.
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