Engine fan not coming on - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 21 Old 02-09-2003, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Engine fan not coming on

Having some problems with my car getting hot. It seems that the engine fan is intermittently not coming on. The car will get hot as hell and start to spew into the overflow tank. The ECT sensor is new. The thermostat is a Stant replacement. The radiator is a stock replacement. Water pump is a stock replacement (not that new).

The fan will come on when the AC is turned on though. What the hell is the problem or where could I check easiest? I'm really thinking about wiring up a manual switch just so I don't have to worry abo0t it anymore.


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post #2 of 21 Old 02-09-2003, 01:53 PM
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Yea I used to have the same problem. The fan wouldn't come on sometimes and the motor go real hot. I just did a manual switch.

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post #3 of 21 Old 02-09-2003, 08:23 PM
 
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Did you know that there was a problem with the fans in the 94/95 mustangs? Ford has been chasing me for two years now to get my fan fixed, but I dont' want to bring it to some hack technician (thats all we have around here is high school "technicians") to work on it.

So your bearings on your fan (if it is stock) may be shot and may need replacing. You may want to check with ford and see if you could have it replaced for free.

Good luck!
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post #4 of 21 Old 02-10-2003, 06:10 PM
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engine fan recall

be careful if you have done this, the TSB that ford stupidly produced for this repair said to put an in line circuit breaker in instead of fixing the fan, and this can cause your fan to turn off when it's under alot of stress, such as when it's hot, and not turn back on until you restart the car. do a search in here on "fan recall" or something like that and you will find out why those of us who had it done regret it
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post #5 of 21 Old 02-11-2003, 06:50 AM Thread Starter
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I have read some stuff on the fan recall, but my fan itself is not the problem. It will come on and work just fine when the AC is kicked on. But, it is not coming on automatically as it should. That is what I'm trying to figure out.

For the record, I don't think I'll ever take my car to Ford for any work to be done.

Erik
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post #6 of 21 Old 02-11-2003, 07:44 AM
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If the fan itself works, than it can only be two things-1) ECT, yours is new though-I had a 'new' one that lasted two days then went bad. I finally got one from Ford and it's been fine. 2)You might have a bad CCRM.

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post #7 of 21 Old 02-11-2003, 09:50 AM
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Mine is a 'lil worse

I have had the recall done, and that netted no high-speed fan operation at all on my car. The low speed fan would come on, and as soon as the highspeed fan was to come on - the fan shut off. The dealer junked the circuit breaker only after they overboiled my car in their service drive.

Now I have a 'new' fan and a new CCRM. This worked for about 3 months before I started having intermittent fan problems.

Before the recall I had no problems at all with the stock fan setup.

This sounds like I have the circuit breaker, but I can assure you that I do not. My fan just stops working all together at random times. Turning on the A/C / defroster has no effect whatsoever. As crazy as this sounds, I can make the fan come back on by doing the following:

1. Turn the car off
2. Manually turn the fan about 1/4 turn
3. Start the car back up

What will happen is the car will start then the fan will come on really slow for about 2 seconds (about 1/10th the 'low speed') then it kicks on high speed fan (just because the car is hot).

The fan will then operate normally until it acts up again (sometimes a month, sometimes a couple days).

I'm wondering if I'm getting some kind of voltage build up that is effectively 'stalling' my fan. It could be a dead spot on the motor but I figure that the incoming air must make the fan turn some as the car moves down the road. It is a really wierd problem. I'm going to hook up a manual switch that kicks on the high fan as a 'CCRM Bypass') to see if the CCRM is the issue or the fan.

Shawn

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post #8 of 21 Old 02-11-2003, 05:51 PM
 
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I took my car in for the e-brake recall and they did the fan recall and did not tell me about it until afterwards, I took the piece off my car and I installed a switch to turn mine on, I have it where my fan will come on when it is supposed to but every once in a while it wont come on. I use the switch then or when at the track. Make sure when you wire up your fan you use a relay.
Kevin
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post #9 of 21 Old 02-12-2003, 11:21 PM
 
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My fan wires burned up where they connect to the fan from the CCRM.

I think the fan bearings went bad and was pulling too much voltage from the system, which overheats the wires from the fan to the CCRM.

The recall fix is the circuit-breaker in-line with the power from the CCRM. It trips when the fan pulls too much energy -- like when your car needs cooling.

I finally fit a Mark VIII 1998 style fan on in place of my stock fan.
No problems so far. This new fan is a lot stronger and doesn't stress my wiring.
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post #10 of 21 Old 02-13-2003, 01:12 AM
 
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I had problems with my fan not comming on. I used to pull over and "smack" the top of the fan assembly and it would just turn on. After a while this didn't work, so I bought a new fan assembly from ford. No problems since.
As for the recall, I never received any notice that this had to be done. I heard about it and called the dealer, they say my "cobra" isn't up for the recall only GT's

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post #11 of 21 Old 02-13-2003, 03:19 AM
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It could be either the fan, the EEC, or even a bad wire from the ECT to the EEC. I'm pretty sure that your dash gauge uses a different temp sensor.

My *guess* is either a bad wire between the ECT and the EEC, or the fan. The FIRST thing to do is to get a DVM (or even a 12V light test) and see if the fan is getting 12V to turn it on when the car gets hot. If the EEC is sending 12V to turn on the fan and the fan is still off, then the fan is bad.

Did you check for EEC codes? I would think that a broken wire between the EEC and the ECT would be flagged.

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post #12 of 21 Old 02-19-2003, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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The fan itself is just fine. The CCRM should be just fine also. Since the fan will come on, and it is controlled by the CCRM (whether it is from being up to temp or from the AC), that pretty much eliminates the CCRM. I haven't recieved any codes either, but haven't checked for stored ones lately.

In talking with another member, he thinks it is either a bad sensor, or faulty connection/wiring. I do have a cheapo O-poundmeintheass-Reilley's sensor in there (Ford place was closed) so I'm going to check it out first. Could be a bad sensor. I am pretty sure the temperature gauge on the dash gets its signal from the same sensor because there aren't any other sensors related to the cooling system.

I have alleviated the overheating problem by turning on my ac (forces fan on) when I'm not at highway speeds. Maybe I'll get to check it out this weekend. Thanks to those who replied.

Erik
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post #13 of 21 Old 02-19-2003, 06:42 PM
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I don;t know about the 94/95 stangs. But, in general, the dash gauge sensor different than the EEC ECT sensor. All EEC sensors are at least "dual wire" sensors. They have the sensor reading, a ground wire, and maybe a +5v/+12V wire. The dash guages often use just a single wire sensor that uses the engine block as ground.

For the EEC wiring, see:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...1eecPinout.gif

If you can find someone with a ScanTool or AutoLogic, *since you have a 94/95*, you can read the EEC sensor values (and the EEC trim values). You "might" also be able to read IF the EEC wants the fan on. It's been a while since I had access to a 5.0 with a 94/95 EEC. I know that with my GM cars, it will say if the ECM wants the fan on or not.

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post #14 of 21 Old 02-19-2003, 07:20 PM
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erik_94COBRA

I just fixed the exact same problem a few weeks ago. My fan would only work intermittently and with the A/C. I was getting Code 563 (High fan control circuit failure) in the KOEO test, but no Check Engine Light. In addition, only my low speed fan would work during the KOEO test. I didn't think it could be the CCRM, but I purchased a used one anyway. The high-speed fan now works fine after the swap.

I got the CCRM for $25 from Tim at
http://www.ponyperformance.com/

Also, I am almost positive the cause for my failure was the manual fan switch. I used the "ground the light-green wire with the purple stripe coming from the EEC" method for my switch. When you start looking at ways to make the fan come on manually, I'd recommend staying away from this one.

95 GT. Mostly stock for now.
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post #15 of 21 Old 02-20-2003, 05:22 AM
 
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Angry

Hi,

I have the opposite problem, and I am pulling what hair I have left on my head out.

My low speed fan does not work. The car will get to "M" then the high speed will kick on. I never see the low speed kick on. The only time it kicks on is when I do the KOEO test. During the KOEO test, I see and hear the low speed and high speed fan cycle.

What could be the problem? I just don't have a clue here!

Thanks!

Pete
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post #16 of 21 Old 02-20-2003, 08:31 AM
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There really IS only four things that can go bad: 1)the wiring which is probably rare, but I DID have an ECT pigtail with a partially broken wire, 2)the fan itself, 3)the ECT and 4)the CCRM. The way to diagnose it is to first hot wire the fan-if it works it's OK. Next run the car and see if the fan comes on. If not, turn the AC on, if it comes on then the ECT is bad, if not, the CCRM is bad. Check the pigtal with an OHM meter and a straight pin. That's it.

One other minor thing it could possibly be is an air bubble where the ECT is-I NEVER drain the radiator when replacing an ECT, just swap it quick on a cold engine. I get the new ECT started, and when it's real loose, I squeeze the upper rad hose till antifreeze comes out the ECT threads, then quickly tighten the threads. That gets the air out.

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post #17 of 21 Old 02-21-2003, 07:41 AM
 
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Hey Don,

Congrats on your 2300th post!

What do you think is the source of my problem? Fan works on high speed, with AC, cycles through on KOEO on low and high speed.

However, low speed doesn't come on with the car running and temps hit "M" in normal. Then the high speed kicks on for about a min and shuts off when temp drops to "R"

Thanks,

pete
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post #18 of 21 Old 02-25-2003, 11:12 AM
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PH112,

I have replaced my entire cooling system in the last year and my car does the same thing. The low-speed fan only seems to come on during the KOEO test. I have always assumed this to be normal and that the EEC only commands the low-speed fan to turn on under certain circumstances. In other words, I think the EEC takes other parameters, besides engine temperature, into account when deciding if the low-speed fan should be on. For example, the EEC only turns the high-speed fan on with the A/C when vehicle speeds are under approximately 40 mph. The first step you need to take is to determine when the low speed fan is SUPPOSED to be on and then determine if you actually have a problem.

Does anybody know when the Low-Speed fan is supposed to be on?

95 GT. Mostly stock for now.
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post #19 of 21 Old 02-25-2003, 12:14 PM
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I had just about all the problems in this entire post. Even had my ccrm catch on fire.

Low speed doesn't come on-my low speed wire which looked OK actually was the problem. I cut the end off, put a female connector on and manually plugged it into the fan. It worked!

High Speed fan doesn't come on-well the ECC turns this on at 210 degrees (default). If you have the A/C on it will also come on. Again check the wires. Mine looked OK but couldn't get the 12v required. Replaced and works fine.

Manual switch-Please, Please put a relay on the switch. I'm 100% sure this is why my ccrm caught fire. I didn't have one at the time. Luckily my ECC is OK.

The Recall-Ford refused to do the recall. They said my car didn't qualify even though I had the symptoms. I bought that stupid ass relay. Well my fan didn't work at all. Which means too much voltage running through the wires.

Also, check for codes. Our cars store codes which sometimes won't actitivate the Check Engine light. I had all kinds of codes for cooling problems but never saw the CE light.

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post #20 of 21 Old 02-25-2003, 03:39 PM
 
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Volts/Amps what's the difference

Hey all, I see this fan problem happening a bit more than what is resonable but if you guys tested your fan motors you'd be surprised. Everyone knows about resistance and how it relates to voltage and current based on ohm's law. If you took a fan motor out of a 100k mile old sn95 and put it next to a new motor, you would find that the static (ie.. stationary/non-turning) resistance is not very different.. BUT .. and this is the big BUT that will blow your mind amongst other things... try putting a heavy duty 40+amp ampmeter in series with a 12 volt battery and one fan. You will see that the old Fan will spike and yes i mean spike that amp meter to 40+ amps for a split second then settle to a resonable level once it spools up. The new motor will have a much lower spike when tested the same way..
It's that current "spike" that will burn up a CCRM over thousands of high amperage spike cycles. If your CCRM still cycles just fine and your replace the fan you might find that the CCRM might fail soon afterward. In all reality that CCRM was wounded but still working. I would recc you replace the CCRM and fan at the same time, that is crucial! Other wise an old fan is gonna put a big hurt on a new CCRM. To replace the ECT sensor doesn't hurt either since those do go nutz once in a while. Also if your CCRM connector shows any sign of heat damage or corrosion I would replace the connector and terminals/wiring for peace of mind. I say peace of mind because it all comes down to a really #$#&ty day in the middle of rush hour july 15th to have a fan failure. Yeah you can say I'm bored at work...
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post #21 of 21 Old 02-26-2003, 06:49 AM
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i had the same problem last summer i couldnt figure it out i thought i blew a head gasket it kept heating up i redid my motor h/c/i and put the motor in and still same problem come to find out it was the plug when i pulled the plug off its all burnt it wasnt getting a good connection only the high wasnt coming on so i cut the plug off put new crimp connectors on and havent had a problem thanks

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