Installed Dakota Digital Dash- Alternator Doesn't Work - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 32 Old 08-15-2017, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Installed Dakota Digital Dash- Alternator Doesn't Work

I installed the dash below in my 1993 LX. Looks awesome but alternator doesn't work.

Dash Pic:


I realized that I needed to hook up/ splice wires for the exciter circuit now also (bottom right corner). Picture below from TMOSS:


Here is a picture of the back of the OEM Dash Cluster. Nice that it is so easy to see when comparing to TMOSS's diagram.


So, I clipped the wires light green/ red and Red/ green as TMOSS shows and is confirmed by the OEM Dash above. Harness clipped here:


I don't have a picture of the wires on the chassis side/ dash side, but I connected them with the OEM original 510 ohm resistor between them.

(IMAGINE PICTURE HERE....lol)

The alternator doesn't charge however. Of course it did before I started the project

When my car is in KOEO mode I checked the three wire connector at the alternator (3G alternator - upgrade from 1994). I have 12v at the yellow wire and 11.9v at the green/red excite wire.

With Key OFF I have 12v at the yellow wire and 0 volts at the green/red excite wire.

What voltage should I be seeing at the green/red excite wire, anyone know? Dakota Digital tech line was called and they had no idea what to do. They'd heard of the problem but didn't address it in the instructions. LOL Very Sad support here with something that EVERY FOX Mustang install will experience.

I can't imagine that I fried the regulator as the install was done without the key in the ignition. But I am about to take it to a parts store to get tested. I don't believe there is anything wrong as it worked PERFECTLY before the install.

Any thoughts or advice from those who've done the FLORIDA 5.0 Gauge Dash Install? I know this is a common problem but I've not found anything other than connecting these two wires as I've shown with the resistor between them.

HELP Please!! Thanks!!

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post #2 of 32 Old 08-15-2017, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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A guy on Stangnet.com just soldered in a 560ohm 1 watt resistor into the green / red wire from his alternator three wire connector and ran it to his ignition power wire on his IAC harness and it worked.

I may try this too or another ignition powered wire in engine bay. Maybe I have a problem somewhere in my OEM harness or something. STILL I got 11.9v to the green/red wire on the connector with KOEO... maybe that's TOO much?

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post #3 of 32 Old 08-17-2017, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Alternator checked out fine... I sure hope somebody can tell me the voltage at the green wire of the alternator at KOEO... please!!!

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post #4 of 32 Old 08-19-2017, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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For others in the future.... the 560ohm resistor was too much resistance for tha alternator to become active. I took the resistor out completely. The alternator works great. 14.7 v. ((EDITTED- or so I thought read on))

I wonder if this is too much voltage into the regulator on the green/red wire so I'll get a 250 ohm 1W or so and try it. I've heard you want 3v there. For some reason with the 560ohm resistor I have 0.6v on that green wire which clearly wasn't enough juice to get it rocking.

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post #5 of 32 Old 08-30-2017, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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Still learning here.... I put spade connectors on that exciter wire so I could change out the resistor as I wished.

I run it perfectly (volts a tad high at 14.7v constantly, not just at startup) with NO resistor right now. When I add in a 3ohm resistor (the original formula below suggested that was the circuit overall resistance) it had no effect on reducing voltage output of alternator.

Then I tried the stock 510ohm resistor as the Stangnet guy did roughly. Still no effect. Voltage unchanged.

I am now believing that the diodes in the alternator just need any old charge running thru.

Maybe an electrical engineer can explain it to me but for now I will still run with no resistor.


1/resistance total = 1/ bulb resistance + 1/ 510 ohms

Bulb measured 3 ohms and solving for Rtotal gives 2.98ohms. LOL.

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post #6 of 32 Old 08-30-2017, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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I meant to add that I did install a new set of connectors for the alternator while I was rewiring it. Maybe that's the reason I still had issues even with my new non stock exciter wire earlier.... no earthly idea.

Final summary, I ran all my own wires to run the alternator, skipping the OEM wiring harness completely. Works great. A tad too high in voltage I think?

Sure would be nice to have had the manual cover how to handle this from the get-go. Hopefully they'll fix it for the next printing. Dash works great now that I've figured out how to get the alternator to run. BIG UPGRADE from factory dash and I get lots of compliments.

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post #7 of 32 Old 09-04-2017, 02:14 PM
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With the key on 12 volts go to the bulb, the green wire provides ground when the alternator is not charging so the bulb is on. The 12 volts coming through the bulb excites the alternator to start charging, once the alternator starts charging the green wire is no longer a ground it has 12 volts so the warning light is off. The resistor takes the place of the bulb if it burns out so the alternator still gets excited to start charging. The resistor does not have anything to do with the charge voltage.
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post #8 of 32 Old 09-05-2017, 03:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks that helps.

I took her for a spin with my wife and after about 30 minutes of driving the alternator cut out and I ran on battery voltage to get home. Not sure what is up.

Wondering if I need that 510ohm resistor back in the circuit.

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post #9 of 32 Old 09-05-2017, 12:20 PM
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I installed a Racepack dash and used a 480 ohm resistor, it works fine.

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post #10 of 32 Old 09-08-2017, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I'll put in that 510ohm resistor and see if that addresses the problem.

Edited- turns out my all custom non-OEM wiring used my radiator e-fan power wire to excite the alternator. Turning off my e-fan turns off the alternator! Easy fix... keep e-fan ON. System works great and I LOVE the Dakota Dash system after over a year and a half of use.


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post #11 of 32 Old 09-08-2017, 04:06 PM
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Full field the alt at idle with as many loads as possible

If it bogs down at puts out current

Alt is fine

Look to reg and sense wire
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post #12 of 32 Old 06-21-2018, 07:19 AM
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I was thinking about buying one of these for my car along with brand new sensors. Did you ever solve your issue?

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post #13 of 32 Old 06-21-2018, 11:26 AM
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I believe the poster omitted the dark green wire from the factory dual black orange wires

This is a common mistake when going to the 130amp alt upgrade

Therefore the poster had 2 issues, and solved 1 with the resistor

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post #14 of 32 Old 06-23-2018, 07:34 AM
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Thanks!

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post #15 of 32 Old 08-14-2018, 07:34 PM
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dakota digital has a alternator load wire harness that plugs in your cars harness.
one wire goes to number 2 and the other goes to number 14 and this will have your alternator working properly
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post #16 of 32 Old 04-05-2019, 11:07 AM
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Hello,

I am experiencing similar issue even though I installed the supplied alternator load wire, which had a inline resistor pre-installed for an ease of installation or so I thought...

Right after installing the dakota cluster, I was stoked to see that everything worked just fine and car was charging at 14.4V. I drove her for about 100 miles before the alternator regulator quit working. My car was running at 12V last few miles. At KOEO, I was reading around 1.35 volts at the green/red wire on the D plug at the alternator. I am supposed to be seeing 2.4-2.6V. Also it would stay at 1.35 after I start the engine. It should be showing battery voltage (minus .25 to 1 volt)

So I went to get my alternator replaced this morning. I got her up and running at 14.4V, but I am still only seeing 1.45V at the green/red wire on the D plug when KOEO. When I got the engine running, I am seeing only 10 Volts at the D plug when the alternator is putting out 14.4V. I am positive this is why my last alternator's voltage regulator fried.

Can anyone tell me if I need a higher or lower ohm resistor? I also am not sure what ohm resistor do I have in my supplied 90-93 alternator load wire. The instruction manual suggests 300-500 ohm resistor. I have also emailed Dakota's technical support.

Thanks!

-Jarvis
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post #17 of 32 Old 04-05-2019, 04:46 PM
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Put a factory bulb in place of the resistor and see what happens

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post #18 of 32 Old 04-05-2019, 09:48 PM
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Good idea. I’ll do that and report back on the new finding.

Dakota tech got back to me and said the supplied resistor is 300 ohm and he suggested using 250 ohm.

I think factory is 500 ohm? Won’t hurt to try anyways.
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post #19 of 32 Old 04-05-2019, 11:01 PM
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Just did this. Got the factory bulb in and I’m looking at 1.42 KOEO on the green/red wire, which means the factory resistor is similar to the resistor I got from Dakota.

I m gonna guess 250 ohm 1 watt bulb should do the trick.

Any ideas where I should be able to find one of those resistors locally ? Computer parts store perhaps? I’ll have to hunt around tomorrow then.
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post #20 of 32 Old 04-06-2019, 09:44 AM
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does the bulb light up, when the engine is running?

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post #21 of 32 Old 04-06-2019, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
does the bulb light up, when the engine is running?
I have an aftermarket Dakota cluster.

Every other test checks out. The wire provides 12V when unplugged from the alternator. The yellow/white wire provides full 12V as expected as wel.
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post #22 of 32 Old 04-06-2019, 11:45 AM
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does the bulb light up when engine is running?

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #23 of 32 Old 04-06-2019, 01:03 PM
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It is an aftermarket cluster so there is no bulb in the picture anymore.

The exciter wire #14 pin on the right side cluster connector is being powered by the ignition switch power source from #2 pin. I installed the supplied Dakota Digital’s resistor wire in between pin 2 and pin 14 wiring. The supplied resistor was a 300 ohm 1 watt 5% resistor and it gave me 1.30ish volts on the green/red wire when plugged in so I swapped it out to factory’s resistor and now I am looking at 1.45V. Small improvement but still not enough.

I got bunch of different resistors from local computer store this morning however they all were 1/4 watt. Not sure how it will work for me but most of them were 99 cents so I got some of them.

Pics coming up.
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post #24 of 32 Old 04-06-2019, 01:12 PM
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Engine off, ignition off, battery fully charged.
1.) Look for 12 volts at the alternator output. No 12 volts and the dark green fuse link between the orange/black wires and the battery side of the starter solenoid has open circuited.
3G alternator: Look for 12 volts at the stud on the back of the alternator where the 4 gauge power feed wire is bolted.
No voltage and the fuse for the 4 gauge power feed wire is open or there are some loose connections.
2.) Look for 12 volts on the yellow/white wire that is the power feed to the regulator. No 12 volts, and the fuse link for the yellow/white wire has open circuited.

Engine off, ignition on, battery fully charged:
1.) Alternator warning light should glow. No glow, bulb has burned out or there is a break in the wiring between the regulator plug and the dash. The warning light supplies an exciter voltage that tells the regulator to turn on. There is a 500 ohm resistor in parallel with the warning light so that if the bulb burns out, the regulator still gets the exciter voltage.
Disconnect the D connector with the 3 wires (yellow/white, white/black and green/red) from the voltage regulator.
Measure the voltage on the Lt green/red wire. It should be 12 volts. No 12 volts and the wire is broken, or the 500 ohm resistor and dash indicator lamp are bad. If the 12 volts is missing, replace the warning lamp. If after replacing the warning lamp, the test fails again, the wiring between the warning lamp and the alternator is faulty. The warning lamp circuit is part of the instrument panel and contains some connectors that may cause problems.

2.) Reconnect the D plug to the alternator
Probe the green/red wire from the rear of the connector and use the battery negative post as a ground. You should see 2.4-2.6 volts. No voltage and the previous tests passed, you have a failed voltage regulator. This is an actual measurement taken from a car with a working electrical system. If you see full or almost full12 volts, the regulator has failed.

Engine on, Ignition on, battery fully charged:
Probe the green/red wire from the rear of the connector and use the battery negative post as a ground. You should see battery voltage minus .25 to 1.0 volt. If the battery measured across the battery is 15.25 volts, you should see 14.50 volts



************************************

Picture #1 - my battery voltage showing 12.77. Dmm connected to battery positive and negative.

Picture #2 - alternator is showing 12.77V just like the battery. Also the yellow wire is looped to the alternator post therefore it is showing 12.77 as well.

Picture #3 - D plug unplugged. Probed green/red wire from behind and it is showing 12.11V KOEO which is the battery voltage. DMM negative is connected to battery negative.

Picture #4 - D plug plugged back in. Probed green/red wire from behind and it is showing 1.44 volts KOEO.

This is why I have came down to the fact that my resistor is providing too much of a resistance.

I noticed that my battery depletes a little quick when KOEO with nothing else turned on. Something is stealing power from somewhere.
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post #25 of 32 Old 04-06-2019, 01:28 PM
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Ok I am confused now. I just put in 270 ohm 1/2 watt 2% resistor and I am still showing just 1.44 volt at green/red wire KOEO. Literally no change.

Am I chasing the wrong thing here?

Also this time when I turned key ON, battery voltage dropped to 10.5 immediately. I guess either the battery is depleted from all of my testing or something is stealing power.
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post #26 of 32 Old 04-06-2019, 01:47 PM
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the bulb that you have in place of the resistor

after you answer that, i will continue to read

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post #27 of 32 Old 04-06-2019, 02:04 PM
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Im so sorry. I posted in this thread again when I said I would keep on my own thread

I moved my post over there and replied to your question over there too. I need further clarification from you on what you mean by bulb "light up"?

Thanks

-Jarvis
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post #28 of 32 Old 06-26-2019, 06:03 PM
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im having the same damn issue. i have 0 volts at the gr/red wire at the alternator. i pulled my cluster and the amp resistor labeled with 510 ohms has what appears to be some damage...maybe. so i am thinking about swapping the cluster out with a known working one. currently, my amp light does not come on at all when i have the ignition on...and that is, im assuming, the reason my alternator is not charging the battery. ill try to post pics.
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post #29 of 32 Old 06-26-2019, 06:45 PM
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does your amp light work?

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post #30 of 32 Old 06-26-2019, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
does your amp light work?
no, i changed the bulb as well. still no amp light.

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post #31 of 32 Old 06-27-2019, 08:06 PM
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does it come on during the bulb check and stay on with key in run?

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post #32 of 32 Old 07-01-2019, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
does it come on during the bulb check and stay on with key in run?
changed out the cluster to a known working one, and now my alternator is working as it should. Things i learned when swapping clusters, make sure all the bulbs are in properly and working (test on a 12v source). I checked to make sure all the lights go on when ignition is on engine off....i totally forgot about the airbag light...which isnt coming on like it was on my prior cluster...oh well, i can live without it blinking i guess..
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