Question about switched 12V and where I tapped - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-16-2017, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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Question about switched 12V and where I tapped

Where do you all tap for Switched 12v on your fuse block when installing gauges and other things

I use the add a circuit fuse block things and took the illumination wires to #13 in the fuse block. Simple enough. However for power for my 3 extra gauges and my speed calibrator I believe and my meth setup, I took from fuse #18. All was working well, but I have been seeing some weird cluster warning light issues and cutout issue I posted about before that is making me think that I am maybe overloading that #18 circuit possibly and causing some of these weird anomolies as I think the timing is about right when they started happening.

So my main question is where do you guys tap for switched 12v and do you split up the load between other circuits? The add a circuit is fused seperately and not blowing fuses, but seeing what that circuit supplies power to really has me thinking now its screwing with the cluster and or ignition in some fashion.


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post #2 of 12 Old 01-17-2017, 08:30 PM
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what is the amp load you put on both circuits you tapped?


89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-18-2017, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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what is the amp load you put on both circuits you tapped?
I think the 13 fuse for illumination is fine. Its just the LEDS for my 2 SportComp2 gauges.
The 18 circuit, there is no documention I could find on current draw for the devices, but the meth kit is on a relay tied into that, so the relay is taking the brunt of the draw right? Other than that the Ford Performance speed calibrator shows no amp draw data, I can only assume is small (maybe 5A), the AEM UEGO (under 2A) and the fuel pressure sensor for my SportComp2 gauge which I believe autometer rates at 1.5A draw with lights?


I pulled all devices from the 18 fuse location and the thought of draw may not be the issue. My cluster still shows the same lights it was. I have not driven the car to see about the cutout issue.
Do you have any high resolution images of the wiring for these cars? I found some yesterday , but the quality was not that great and was hard to read when I was going to trace the circuits out.

Strange thing I did find after that post a month or 2 ago about my gauge cluster lights is that I can get the low oil light to go off from rotating the steering wheel full lock back and forth a few times, which makes no damn sense to me. The brake light I am gonna trace out the ebrake switch and see maybe if that is causing the light to do goofy things. I have an idea of a few circuits to check at this point, but my first thought was current draw on that circuit since the diagram states it has some control over the cluster and CCRM

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post #4 of 12 Old 01-18-2017, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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Actually, I just found a site that has all the diagrams and some other cool stuff for our cars for reference info: hissind.com

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post #5 of 12 Old 01-18-2017, 10:04 AM
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without info, or measuring

you will be guessing

fuses are there to protect the wires

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post #6 of 12 Old 01-18-2017, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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without info, or measuring

you will be guessing

fuses are there to protect the wires
Well when manufacturers do not suggest fusing or supply info on amperage draw, one can only assume the draw is minimal.
The only thing that suggested fusing and had a relay was the Meth kit. All else "should" be able to be handled off any switched 12v I would guess, but again this is why I am asking.
So again, they are wired in via a add a circuit, so they are fused. Perhaps a larger fuse than needed, but again lets say there is an additional 10A-20A of load coming off that circuit can it cause enough of a draw that the other items are not getting enough power and cause other issues?

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post #7 of 12 Old 01-18-2017, 10:26 AM
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buyer beware

if the manuf doesn't describe the load.........

its because they don't have to by law.........

therefore its up to you to measure it.

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post #8 of 12 Old 01-18-2017, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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buyer beware

if the manuf doesn't describe the load.........

its because they don't have to by law.........

therefore its up to you to measure it.
Well I guess I will need to put the circuit back together to measure everything in the next couple months I guess.
That being said, I assume you have gears in your car, gauges and other misc electronics since boosted. Where did you tap your items into for switched 12v? Did you use relays for everything?
Again assuming if even an additional 10A on that circuit draw, could I run the risk of not having enough power to the other components, or am I overthinking this? I cannot image a speedometer calibrator pulling any current really else they would suggest fusing it seperately. I know gauges dont pull much if at all as I never fused gauges before and never had an issues.

Honestly, thinking about it, i guess none of this is really an issue at all. Point being. . . where do you guys with multiple extra electronics components pull off for switched 12v?

While I appreciate you being the only person that responds in the forum, some actual assistance would be useful than answering my questions with more questions and quick off the cuff response.

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post #9 of 12 Old 01-18-2017, 10:21 PM
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measure the amp draw, then I will explain

not so much off the cuff

I am not answering your questions on "running out of power"

Cause it DON'T work that way, and I am not getting into how it works......school

so measure or don't measure.

add the gauges and other such loads, and don't worry about it.....it just a car.

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post #10 of 12 Old 01-19-2017, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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Measuring is irrelevant at this point because I am not sure there actually is an issue with how i have it. I already said without measuring that I can almost garuntee it is well well under a 10A extra load.

I had 2 very simple questions for someone who may have more knowledge than me
1. Where do you tap for your switched 12v for accessories (perhaps a more common/safe point than where I took)
2. What would happen if there was a higher load on a circuit like where I tapped into?

That being said I have added gauges and other misc electronics for I dunno. .. 20yrs now to a ton of cars with no relays or specialized circuits without issues of extra draw causing problems. But stuff happens sometimes and maybe I didnt pick the best circuit this time to tap into.

If you wish to entertain to answer those 2 specific questions, please feel free. If you do not wish to answer, then please do not comment. I would prefer not to go down the rabbit hole with you. This is a forum. It is where people come for help when they have questions.


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post #11 of 12 Old 01-19-2017, 09:58 AM
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1) do you want me to look at my wiring diagrams and tell you exactly which circuit to tap?

2)If the total load is under the rated circuit design, NOTHING will happen

specific enough?

I will comment when and where I feel like it.....thank you very much

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post #12 of 12 Old 01-19-2017, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
1) do you want me to look at my wiring diagrams and tell you exactly which circuit to tap?

2)If the total load is under the rated circuit design, NOTHING will happen

specific enough?

I will comment when and where I feel like it.....thank you very much
Thanks for being your normal self. i will post on another forum then to see if someone can actually be useful and not just be a dick when people post.

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