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post #1 of 23 Old 11-23-2002, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Question Electric Wire Color Codes

Does anyone know if there is a book, website, link, etc, which will tell the manufacturers Color codes for the electric wires?

Im trying to install my Autometer Gauge, and I which functional wires to tap into, but I dont know what colors they are.

Help would be



RC


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post #2 of 23 Old 11-23-2002, 03:01 PM
 
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Find the autometer site on the internet. They have .pdf files for downloading with instructions for your application.

http://www.autometer.com/

I used this method to get instructions for a rich/lean gauge install for the 94 GT.

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post #3 of 23 Old 11-23-2002, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by 94GTVert
Find the autometer site on the internet. They have .pdf files for downloading with instructions for your application.

http://www.autometer.com/

I used this method to get instructions for a rich/lean gauge install for the 94 GT.
Thanks...BUT THAT SITE IS USELESS. I have the instructions from Autometer from the package..and the website just repeats it.

Something like:

"hook up the ground"
"hook up the sending unit"
"hook up the light dimmer"
"hook up the power supply"

I need something with the function of each of the colored wires so that I know which ones to tap into!
RC

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post #4 of 23 Old 11-23-2002, 11:17 PM
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What kind of gauge are you trying to hook up? I have some of the wire colors that are listed on the dei (viper, clifford, etc.) website. You have to know a passord to access the info though. Man its nice being a car audio installer sometimes!

Let me know what wires you need decoded and I'll see if they list them.

Later,

Brian

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post #5 of 23 Old 11-24-2002, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by 94CanaryGT
What kind of gauge are you trying to hook up? I have some of the wire colors that are listed on the dei (viper, clifford, etc.) website. You have to know a passord to access the info though. Man its nice being a car audio installer sometimes!

Let me know what wires you need decoded and I'll see if they list them.

Later,

Brian
I have an autometer WATER Temp gauge.

1. sending unit wire....got that covered
2. Ground for sending unit...gotta figure out best place to ground
3. one wire to ignition switch for power need help with this
4. Hot wire for light on meter...to any wire that dims with lights need help with this one
5. A ground for the light wire...Need to know the BEST place for this

Thanks Canary

RC

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post #6 of 23 Old 11-24-2002, 04:30 PM
 
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Most of the wires for illumination and dimming are Light Blue w/Red stripe. Hope that helps.
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post #7 of 23 Old 11-24-2002, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Well.. I would like to know EXACTLY which wires Im cutting.
Also need a power supply (like ignition switch)

RC

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post #8 of 23 Old 11-24-2002, 11:21 PM
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I'll try...

I take it you need help with what wires on our cars that you need to tap into four your install?

1. sending unit wire....got that covered
2. Ground for sending unit...gotta figure out best place to ground
3. one wire to ignition switch for power need help with this
4. Hot wire for light on meter...to any wire that dims with lights need help with this one
5. A ground for the light wire...Need to know the BEST place for this

1. Easy
2. As close to the sender as possible. To keep the wiring job simple.
3. Try the fuse box. Take a test light and probe for power when the switch is in the "on" position. Run a wire fro the back of the fuse block for a clean install. There should be a few open spots. If that fails use the block under the hood. TIP: ALWAYS USE A FUSEABLE LINK OR THE FUSE IN THE BOX(S) FOR PROTECTION!
4. Look at your light switch for this. Or tap into your ash tray light for this.
5. Easy stuff. Any ground you like. Use a test light and find a bolt head and use that for your test light. Touch a known power source, and if your test light lights up, your golden.
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post #9 of 23 Old 11-25-2002, 02:53 AM
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sorry for the delay

Long day at work....

At the steering column ignition (switched) wire color should be tan w/ a white stripe.

I don't have the color of the illumination wire handy.

As far as the ground goes...if the supplied wire is long enough to reach the chassis, either screw a connector there or use one that is already there. If the wire isn't long enough...make it longer

Honestly, you can get all these wires behind the radio using a test light or a multimeter.

If you don't own a test light or multimeter, you shouldn't be installing this...(sorry, too many work related issues w/ customer installed equipment.)

Brian

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1995 Black GT convertible
AODE w/4r70w gearset, baumann shift kit, SCT chip, bassani cat. x-pipe. *SOLD*

1994 Canary Yellow GT *SOLD*
Cobra intake, rustmasters, aluminum driveshaft, Romac, fluidyne, pro 5.0 w/tri-ax handle, H&R's w/Bilsteins, twEECer RT, C&L 76mm kit...blah blah blah
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post #10 of 23 Old 11-25-2002, 03:26 AM
 
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If you Pull out your headlight Switch out ....THere is a bunch of wires That go in to the plug in the back of it .....If i rember right when i hooked up my guages ....I taped my ilum wire int to the brown wire on the head light plug

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post #11 of 23 Old 11-25-2002, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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Re: I'll try...

Quote:
Originally posted by Fork
I take it you need help with what wires on our cars that you need to tap into four your install?

1. sending unit wire....got that covered
2. Ground for sending unit...gotta figure out best place to ground
3. one wire to ignition switch for power need help with this
4. Hot wire for light on meter...to any wire that dims with lights need help with this one
5. A ground for the light wire...Need to know the BEST place for this

1. Easy
2. As close to the sender as possible. To keep the wiring job simple.
3. Try the fuse box. Take a test light and probe for power when the switch is in the "on" position. Run a wire fro the back of the fuse block for a clean install. There should be a few open spots. If that fails use the block under the hood. TIP: ALWAYS USE A FUSEABLE LINK OR THE FUSE IN THE BOX(S) FOR PROTECTION!
4. Look at your light switch for this. Or tap into your ash tray light for this.
5. Easy stuff. Any ground you like. Use a test light and find a bolt head and use that for your test light. Touch a known power source, and if your test light lights up, your golden.

This seems pretty clear, except a couple of questions.

1. I guess part of the problem is that Im not sure how to hook up a new connection into the fuse box

2. Is the test meter the same as what I use for my outlets in my house, with the black and red probes, or is it something different?
I can pickup one at Walmart where I work.

3. when you test, does that meter require a "bare" wire or can you just touch it to the outside?

4. If I use the ashtray light, just tap in near the ashtray itself and run the wire under the console?

5. For the ground, I have ALREADY run 2 wires through the fire wall, one for the ground and one for the sending unit. Now I just need to find the EXACT spot to ground it..


THANKS TO ALL WHO ARE HELPING..IT is NOT your instructions that are poor, it is My comprehension of them

RC

PS..I do ALL my house wiring...you think I would get it by now!!!

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post #12 of 23 Old 11-25-2002, 09:19 AM
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I made it really easy for myself when I did my electric water temp gauge... I didn't bother going into the headlight switch.

Go out and get some of the blue scotch lock connectors so you don't have to cut any wires. Obviously run the wires down through a-pillar and dashboard and label the wires. Run them to the center console. Pull out your radio to expose the rear connector to the deck.

Tap into these wires w/ the scotch lock connector:

Black w/ blue tracer: ground wire
Yellow with black tracer: for igntion wire; use black w/ blue tracer for ground wire again.
Blue w/ purplish-red tracer: dimmer/light; use black w/ blue tracer for ground wire again.

Fish the sending wire through the firewall to the sender. Ground the sending wire anywhere, really. You can even ground somewhere inside the car.

This is just how I did it. Not to bash anyone else but I didn't have to probe any wires with a multimeter. I went to the back of the radio because I knew what wires were what.

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post #13 of 23 Old 11-25-2002, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by green94droptop
I made it really easy for myself when I did my electric water temp gauge... I didn't bother going into the headlight switch.
Tap into these wires w/ the scotch lock connector:

Black w/ blue tracer: ground wire
Yellow with black tracer: for igntion wire; use black w/ blue tracer for ground wire again.
Blue w/ purplish-red tracer: dimmer/light; use black w/ blue tracer for ground wire again.
......
I bought a tester just for the hell of it. I tested it out on my exposed clock wires.

The above instructions seem pretty clear, but cant I just look for these same wires in a spot closer to the fuse box..? The colors are still the same, I would just be tapping into the same wire in a different location.

I have to wait till Wed. to check this, since I work a 12-hr shift tomorrow

Thanks for your help...You have a reply on Stangnet!
RC

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post #14 of 23 Old 11-25-2002, 09:40 PM
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Well, I already thought of that when I did my gauges. I'm not sure if you'd be able to find those wires near the fuse box; I just assumed it would be a big rat's nest of wires in there.

I'm coming down to Miami in for a weekend in January to visit an old girlfriend . Anyhow, we should all get together and hangout.

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post #15 of 23 Old 11-26-2002, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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Chris Eades is coming also.

We were going to get together with Vibrant..

Make sure you PM when youre coming

RC

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post #16 of 23 Old 11-27-2002, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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MESSED UP!!

Well I knew I would screw something up...but..

I could not find those colored wires you were referring to, because I didnt know how to remove the radio without breaking anything.

So I used a dimmer which was blue with violet tracer (like you said) that was connected to my fog light switch. The light worked and dimmed just fine.

I used a screw inside the hood on top of fenderwell to ground the sending unit.

I put a screw in an empty hole behind the plastic kick panel near the hood release latch inside to use for the light ground.

This left me with finding a power supply when the car comes on.
I probed all around and found a red wire which was near the entrance to the console to the right of where your right shin would be. THE GAUGE WORKS FINE!!!

Now, however, I have a check engine light on and a code 12 Airbag, which may be a blown fuse. (I can live with that for now..easy to fix if that is truely what it is)

The check engine light I dont know what to do with.

I dont know if these problems now are because of the current power tap in that red wire, or if I shorted something while I was probing for a hot wire...any comments?

RC

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post #17 of 23 Old 11-27-2002, 09:19 PM
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Good job on finding those wires. Don't know about the CE light...try a code scanner and run it? To get the radio out just get a coat hanger cut it up into little peices and stick it in the four holes and jiggle it around until it pulls out.

I'm clueless on the CE light. I'd still try to tap into the 12v ignition wire (red I think) for power.

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ET: 13.058 @ 105.28 w/ 1.81 60'
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post #18 of 23 Old 11-27-2002, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by green94droptop
Good job on finding those wires. Don't know about the CE light...try a code scanner and run it? To get the radio out just get a coat hanger cut it up into little peices and stick it in the four holes and jiggle it around until it pulls out.

I'm clueless on the CE light. I'd still try to tap into the 12v ignition wire (red I think) for power.
Well dont compliment me yet.. Because My former neighbor (about 46 years old) does my general mechanic work on the car, and he CHEWED ME OUT for "probing around" with the electrical wires.

He said I "should have" tapped into the fuse box directly for power. I didnt know how the H3LL to do that! Funny how nobody wants to help you (except a few of you) but everybody wants to tell you how you did it wrong after the fact.

Next Wed he is going to install my 275/40's for me, and he DOES have the scanner for the CE light. My battery died, so I just left the negative wire off for now. Maybe that will clear it.

Im sure that the blue/violet tracer wire next to the fogs is fine for the dimmer, and I know my grounds are ok..

So when I go to my mechanics next week, I will have him show me how to rewire the power wire to the fuse box.

I am kinda proud of myself for having done this I even took my wifes label maker, and labelled every wire in 3 places. I also crimped the circle connectos on each wire to screw on the back of the gauge, and as far as "clean" goes, the only place you see any wires, is about a 1/2" section between the bottom of the pod and the left of it in the door crack.. Everythin else is hidden. I even got the red wire loom for the inside of the hood.

Just hope now that those problems are simple to fix.
Thanks again Green!

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post #19 of 23 Old 11-27-2002, 10:49 PM
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Your mechanic is doubting your ability to use a multimeter. You did a good job . Probing wires is safe and it's not like you can go directly to the fuse box for your dimmer control. Going to the fuse box is a good idea for 12v ignition. Just go to your owners manual and find a fuse that is only powered when the ignition is in the run position; like say the radio fuse. I just sugested using the scotch lock connectors and taping into specific wires that control things, like at the back of the radio.

Going into fuse box is tricky; you need some "crow's foot" connectors (that's what they look like). Snip one foot off the connector; take the fuse out that you want to tap into, shove the connector up in the fuse holder then shove the fuse back in there. It's ghetto but it works.

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Perf. intake, GT40X heads, Crower 511 cam...some other trivial bolt-ons.

ET: 13.058 @ 105.28 w/ 1.81 60'
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post #20 of 23 Old 11-28-2002, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by green94droptop
Your mechanic is doubting your ability to use a multimeter. You did a good job . Probing wires is safe and it's not like you can go directly to the fuse box for your dimmer control. Going to the fuse box is a good idea for 12v ignition. Just go to your owners manual and find a fuse that is only powered when the ignition is in the run position; like say the radio fuse. I just sugested using the scotch lock connectors and taping into specific wires that control things, like at the back of the radio.

Going into fuse box is tricky; you need some "crow's foot" connectors (that's what they look like). Snip one foot off the connector; take the fuse out that you want to tap into, shove the connector up in the fuse holder then shove the fuse back in there. It's ghetto but it works.
2 things:

1. I think that he is concerned that I tap into a wire that is for something like the airbag, and that I could have deployed it, since the end of the multimeter has to be grounded. You may "ground" a potentially dangerous wire that should not be grounded. I dont believe I had a problem with the dimmer.

2. I think there is an actual "real" way to tap a new power source from the fuse box, like you would from your house supply, not just pinch into a current fuse.

3. update on the airbag compliments of Very Useful (info).com

I changed the 10A fuse this AM (sure enough was blown) Now airbag code is 52, instead of 12 (the way the codes work if you have a number greater than 40, it means that you had a problem that is now resolved...the problem being that same number minus 40..

For this example:

original code 12 (less than 40, problem still exists) code 12 means blown fuse..

so Fix it...Now code is 52 (means that code 12 is now resolved, hence 52, which is 12 + 40)

So now just gotta jump the switches in the glove box per the diagram on that web site
Thanks

RC

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post #21 of 23 Old 11-28-2002, 10:23 AM
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Where the violet signal wire from the Air/Fuel ratio gauge connects
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There are two options for this particular hookup, being the left or right oxygen sensors. The best spot to make this hookup is right sensor at the PCM. This is located above or behind the passenger side kick panel. There will be a 104-pin connector in that location. To hook up to the left sensor, go to pin 43 which is a red wire with a black stripe. In order to hook up to the right sensor, go to pin 44 which is a gray wire with a light blue stripe.

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post #22 of 23 Old 11-28-2002, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Update on the CE Light

Turns out that the CE light was on because The original STOCK sending unit was removed from the wiring harness.

I tried to put the stock one back in the FMS chrome Water neck.
It is hard to screw it down inside, and it leaked a little, so I put the screw back in the water neck and diconncected the stock sending unit. I just said WTF, and put it back on, and the CE light went off

Now I just have to get a new battery, then reset the airbag signal.

Thanks again
RC

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post #23 of 23 Old 11-28-2002, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 94GTLaserRC


2 things:

1. I think that he is concerned that I tap into a wire that is for something like the airbag, and that I could have deployed it, since the end of the multimeter has to be grounded. You may "ground" a potentially dangerous wire that should not be grounded. I dont believe I had a problem with the dimmer.

2. I think there is an actual "real" way to tap a new power source from the fuse box, like you would from your house supply, not just pinch into a current fuse.

3. update on the airbag compliments of Very Useful (info).com

I changed the 10A fuse this AM (sure enough was blown) Now airbag code is 52, instead of 12 (the way the codes work if you have a number greater than 40, it means that you had a problem that is now resolved...the problem being that same number minus 40..

For this example:

original code 12 (less than 40, problem still exists) code 12 means blown fuse..

so Fix it...Now code is 52 (means that code 12 is now resolved, hence 52, which is 12 + 40)

So now just gotta jump the switches in the glove box per the diagram on that web site
Thanks

RC
I like that website! There is some usefull info there.

Deep Forest Green '94 GT Conv.

Perf. intake, GT40X heads, Crower 511 cam...some other trivial bolt-ons.

ET: 13.058 @ 105.28 w/ 1.81 60'
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