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post #1 of 11 Old 08-15-2002, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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GAUGES

I have noticed that electrical gauges are quite more expensive than mechanical ones.
What are their differences? installation differences?
Im looking to put a fuel pressure gauge and a nitrous pressure gauge in. (2) 2 1/16" gauges in an A pillar dual pod.
Was looking at the Auto Meter Phantom gauges.

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post #2 of 11 Old 08-15-2002, 12:37 PM
 
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If your racing/smart you'll use an electric fuel gauge in that pod. Electric gauges use a transducer to read pressure and send it to the gauge electronically (wire), the mechanical gauge will extend the pressure circuit all the way to the gauge (through tubing).

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post #3 of 11 Old 08-15-2002, 02:03 PM
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With a mechanical FP..their will be fuel coming into the interior (to the guage)
With the electric the FP reading is made at the rail..then sent "electrically" reading to the guage. The only way to go in my opinion...

If a mechanical breaks..say hello fuel in my interior

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post #4 of 11 Old 08-15-2002, 02:25 PM
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You can also use an isolator on a mechanical gauge and use it in your interior. This uses pressure from the rails and reads it and sends that pressure through the isolator(water filled)

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post #5 of 11 Old 08-15-2002, 04:45 PM
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Go with the electrical on the fuel and the mechanical (if you can) on the nitrous. The nitrous gage will be a little more accurate as a mechanical, but running the nitrous line up there may make you want the elec. The big drawback to the elec. nitrous gage is the cost at over $200 it is a big money drain.

All of my gages are in a radio delete plate in the lower radio section in the center counsel. I have Autometer oil, water and nitrous gages in there and in my opinion they look better in there than on the pillar, especially in a drop top.

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post #6 of 11 Old 08-15-2002, 10:01 PM
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The reason the mechanical gauges are more acurate is they have a full sweep as opposed to the electrical gauges haveing a 90 degree sweep. Same range, but mechanical have further travel. Which also makes easier to read and be more precised.
For fuel I would get the isolator. Most tracks will not allow fuel in the inside of the vehicle.

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post #7 of 11 Old 08-15-2002, 10:07 PM
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jaw773 you have any pics of the guages in the radio delete?

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post #8 of 11 Old 08-16-2002, 08:16 AM
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eades5.0, I will get them this weekend. I do not know how to post them on here though, never needed to before.

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post #9 of 11 Old 08-16-2002, 08:29 AM
 
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You can get the fuel psi guage in full sweep, but it runs $180 or more. I believe the NOS gauge is about the same too. Alot of money just for gauges, but in the end you would be happier and safer going with electrical full sweep gauges.
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-16-2002, 09:09 AM
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eades5.0, actually there is a thread already on here that is the same thing as what I have, just that I have the three gage model, not the two.

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post #11 of 11 Old 09-11-2002, 06:52 AM
 
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You can see my gauges here, i have the radio delete panel with three 2 1/16" gauges, very nice setup, but i'm changing mine around so i can see the more important gauges in front of me. Trying to 9's with boost and egt down there is tough to read, not to mention unsafe. Anyone install a water temp gauge in an SN95 ?? I'm wondering what you did with the old sensor that is currently in the intake.
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