Painless 12 circuit universal chassis wiring install? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 05-07-2012, 02:54 AM Thread Starter
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Painless 12 circuit universal chassis wiring install?

Well I'm going to pull my 93 abs/airbag harness from my car and wire in the painless kit. I'll reuse all the connectors from the old harness to hook up to accessories. I was wondering if anyone could give me a few pointers on this. I'm pretty good at wire tracing with my Fluke or power probe.

I would like to try and retain the stock cluster for a little while. And also use my ignition switch, turn signal, and hazard switches. I'm going to add an electric w/p, line lock, MSD, and duel fan controller. I'm also Staying EFI with the EECIV.

If I have to I'll run a switch panel where the HVAC controls used to reside, but trying not to go to a switch panel.

Thanks for any advise or tips you can share.

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk 2


Maglin
85 GT w/93 LX Conversion
393w - 170cc TFS-TW - FTI Cam - TFS-R intake - 75mm TB - CF-DF clutch - Tremic 3550 TKO II - A3M w/ Quaterhorse
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post #2 of 8 Old 05-09-2012, 09:15 PM
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Definitely get a good schematic from a Haynes/Chiltons type of book, if not a Ford one. I have an '87, and it took a good deal of reading to find a schematic that matched my car specifically, so it seems there were changes throughout the model years that go beyond just adding things such as airbags, etc.

I reused the factory ignition switch, turn signals, hazards, brights, etc. (don't know why I did, honestly) and it was kind of a pain in the ass. I wired mine to start by momentary switch, but to still require the key be inserted and in the run position. Draw it all out and be patient. Take pictures of the mess behind the cluster and on the column and photograph as you go. It will save your tail if you get a little lost or sidetracked and can't get back to it for a while.


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post #3 of 8 Old 05-13-2012, 09:45 AM
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I am almost finished with doing my Ebay 22 circuit wiring harness. I am carb though but put everything back to the key, had a switch panel and hated it, plus the factory stuff was scotch locked soo many times. Soo it was time to pull the dash out.

Things I learned. Have a haynes book handy, or even better Alldata if you have a buddy

Get the new pigtails that clip into the headlights and hazards, yours will probably show signs of being melted.Also melt solder to these connectors also so they stay put.

Car quest or something similar will have the metal clips you need to plug into the pigtail that goes to the ignition and othersl

Work on 1 thing at a time

Lay the harness out on the ground and mark everything first at the tip, mine had it labeled every foot but even with the dash in I had to go under again and look sometimes.

Run your big stuff you plan on right away. Also dont incorporate it in the harness and use "extra" wires. It will be easier to troubleshoot IF you have a problem someday. I used a disttribution block for my big pumps and aftermarket things. Ran a extra big positive back then the relay powers T'd in.

DO IT ONCE AND NEVER AGAIN

Get the vitals to work first. Dont worry about the body till later.

Heat shrink and solder will be the best, get yourself a mini propane torch. I tried the soldering gun and with so much wire length even on its high wattage setting couldnt melt the wire too fast because the heat went down the wire.

Have a battery charger on the battery and when you get one bigger draw item done run the pump or whatever for 10 minutes to see if it will pop a fuse. (My pump doing that right now lol Need thicker wire)

Do the same with your big stuff when all wired up and let them all work to make sure your system can handle it if your not a electrical guru.

POWER PROBE FTW!.....POWER PROBE FTW!

Relays and fuses

Tylenol or Advil will help you also.

I got about probably 40 some hours total in it wiring and reading schematics. I know a local wiring place that said they would do it for 1K on the low end. Glad I did it myself cause you know it never goes on the low end ever at a shop.

Good luck man, I never wired this hardcore before, amps and things similar I have done but I can say I feel better knowing I have everything on fuses and relays and wont burn it down.

Last edited by Sprayaway Fox; 05-13-2012 at 09:51 AM.
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post #4 of 8 Old 05-13-2012, 09:58 AM
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PS. Get a harness that has extra wires for you to power up other things someday. You never know if something new comes out that you want and then you dont have to start the whole scotch lock thing over again.

Dont cut the wires you dont use, just roll them up and cap them and zip tie them under the dash so you have them at full length in case you want to expand.
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post #5 of 8 Old 05-13-2012, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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I have a love my Power Probe for the last 5 years. I'm an electrical tech just never replaced a whole harness and wanted to know of any possible set backs with a fuel injected fox. I have a very small relay box from another car that was for the entire A/C system that I'm going to mount under the drivers fender to run the power for both my fans and the electric water pump. I'll have another circuit their for a possible future vacuum pump or N02 solenoids. Not to sure how I'm going to run the power for the A1000. I might just use the factory roll over for that and just run a single wire back from the EEC to activate it. Might save my bacon on the strip in the event I flip the car.

And yes always solder and heat shrink your wiring. I've had to replace so many but connectors on customers cars that where 4+ years old and failing. Also never pierce a wire with your test light. You might be paying me $300 to find the bad spot in the wiring and replacing it 10 years down the road.

Thank you for the advise.

Maglin
85 GT w/93 LX Conversion
393w - 170cc TFS-TW - FTI Cam - TFS-R intake - 75mm TB - CF-DF clutch - Tremic 3550 TKO II - A3M w/ Quaterhorse
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post #6 of 8 Old 05-14-2012, 01:46 AM
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The tech department at Painless is great, any questions you can't find the answer to , they will help you out.

It's not the size of your shop, it's what comes out of it that counts.
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post #7 of 8 Old 05-19-2012, 09:23 PM
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Just a FYI you need at least a 10 gauge for the wire going back to the fuel pump. I took the clip out of the relay and wired it 10 gauge going in and going out and it cured my problem. I used the wires coming out of the relay pack and it was too small and choking it too much.

The A1000 needs a good power feed especially if not running a progressive for it, cause its basically running full boar all the time then. I would reccomend running it off the battery, or if your using a block (hopefully). Also at least a 8AN return on it or it will overheat

Happy wiring
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post #8 of 8 Old 11-02-2014, 02:46 PM
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hi guys

just wanted to check in and see how you're liking this painless chassis harness few years later? would you do it all over again or use something else?

'90 notch w/an "old school" cartech outlaw kit
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