Trunk Mount Batteries - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 31 Old 04-25-2012, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
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Trunk Mount Batteries

I'm considering the job......... I have an ignition to install and am really on the fence about relocating the battery... Watcha guys think?


How did you guys hook it up?


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post #2 of 31 Old 04-25-2012, 07:38 AM
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There are many threads about this, Search feature should and will answer all your questions. Just use high quality 1 gauge cable, and pay attention to grounds. They will make or break the installation from my experiance. Use a cut of switch if you plan to race the car. Also, good connections.. solder all of them, make it look good.

FWIW, I am using the Aluminium taylor box with the Ron francis battery relocation cable kit 1 gauge all the way to the solenoid and the flaming rivier switch mounted behind the licsence plate. Ground ran to block, then ground from block to car. Works good. 10 year old 1-wire alternator ran directly to battery (+).


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post #3 of 31 Old 04-25-2012, 08:47 AM
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post #4 of 31 Old 04-25-2012, 11:22 AM
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Use #1/0 cable not #1. There is a difference

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post #5 of 31 Old 04-25-2012, 12:56 PM
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I got the 1/0 cable from lowes by the foot, and bought the black plastic box from Summit Racing.

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post #6 of 31 Old 04-26-2012, 09:34 PM
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I am using the taylor kit. I used the cable that came with it to run up to the solenoid and for the ground. But I also added a 1 gauge from the battery to the starter and made a ground cable out of the left over 1 gauge fot the block to body ground. Also using a flaming river kill swithch.


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post #7 of 31 Old 04-26-2012, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
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I am using the taylor kit. I used the cable that came with it to run up to the solenoid and for the ground. But I also added a 1 gauge from the battery to the starter and made a ground cable out of the left over 1 gauge fot the block to body ground. Also using a flaming river kill swithch.

ohhhh i like this, may have to carpet and sink the battery down!!!!

here is mine


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post #8 of 31 Old 04-26-2012, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Man, digging the pics, Some creative setups for sure!!!

91' Hatch
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post #9 of 31 Old 04-26-2012, 10:18 PM
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how about some detail on how you wired up the MSD
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post #10 of 31 Old 04-26-2012, 10:20 PM
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Bullit, you got 1/0 cable from Lowes? I haven't seen battery or welding cable there. Exactly what wire did you use? Any pics of it?

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post #11 of 31 Old 04-26-2012, 10:26 PM
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Bullit, you got 1/0 cable from Lowes? I haven't seen battery or welding cable there. Exactly what wire did you use? Any pics of it?

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im guessing he bought THHN, which if this is correct is not ideal for a vehicle. its very rigid and the jacket is not that protective. i could be wrong but i also didnt htink lowes sells welding cable/battery cable/locomotive cable

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post #12 of 31 Old 04-26-2012, 11:49 PM
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That's exactly what I was thinking, thus the question. Sure, it's rated for 600 volts -AC not DC. Big difference

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post #13 of 31 Old 04-28-2012, 04:38 PM
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Are you all using 1/0 or 2/0 gauge on power and earth?

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post #14 of 31 Old 04-28-2012, 04:49 PM
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A little different approach -- mine has an un-used spare tire 'well' (commonly referred to as 'butt cheeks' by the brickers) on the passenger side. I put mine in there. Sits flush with the floor of the trunk - although the battery box top sits above the floor line. I used a WalMart plastic marine battery box. For hot cable I bought a set of 25' 2 gauge fine strand jumper cables (also Wally World) and joined them at the lug after removing/discarding the clamps. So I have a double 2-gauge running to the front. Penetrated the floor in the trunk and ran on the underside of the car just on the edge of the driveshaft tunnel. Oh - also mounted a disconnect in the trunk. It simply disconnects the ground for the battery like you would if you were working on the car. Pretty decent theft deterrent as well.

Without taking a new picture - you can just see the top in the right side of the pic below....and the disconnect is pretty clear.


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post #15 of 31 Old 04-28-2012, 06:40 PM
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So is it required to mount the ignition box with it in the back or is it ok to leave it up front?

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post #16 of 31 Old 04-28-2012, 09:36 PM
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my ignition is up front, battery in trunk. I used 2/0 welding cable. the stuff was not cheap, but I had used smaller gauge wire prior and was having issues with starting the car once it was hot. rewired with 2/0 and problems solved.
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post #17 of 31 Old 04-28-2012, 10:53 PM
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2/0 here


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post #18 of 31 Old 04-29-2012, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonez8791 View Post
So is it required to mount the ignition box with it in the back or is it ok to leave it up front?
You can put the ignition box where ever you want to. Just more creative to put it in the back plus it keeps it out of the heat of the engine bay.



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post #19 of 31 Old 04-29-2012, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
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Are you all using 1/0 or 2/0 gauge on power and earth?
1/0 or 2/0 is fine. 2/0 is better but you will be just fine with 1/0. i used 3/0 to my started and ground.

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post #20 of 31 Old 04-29-2012, 01:29 PM
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Michael - when you put two wires in parallel like that - won't the electrons find the easiest path? If one has even a slightly different resistance to it - it'll chose the one with the least.

Anyway - how much is enough from back to front? 10ft?

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post #21 of 31 Old 06-18-2012, 09:43 AM
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There are many threads about this, Search feature should and will answer all your questions. Just use high quality 1 gauge cable, and pay attention to grounds. They will make or break the installation from my experiance. Use a cut of switch if you plan to race the car. Also, good connections.. solder all of them, make it look good.

FWIW, I am using the Aluminium taylor box with the Ron francis battery relocation cable kit 1 gauge all the way to the solenoid and the flaming rivier switch mounted behind the licsence plate. Ground ran to block, then ground from block to car. Works good. 10 year old 1-wire alternator ran directly to battery (+).
Do you have a part number for the wiring kit?

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post #22 of 31 Old 06-18-2012, 10:28 AM
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TP-35 HOT ROD BATTERY CABLES-Ron Francis Wiring

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post #23 of 31 Old 06-18-2012, 10:33 AM
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Holy crap! That is a lot for a few terminals and some 1 gauge cable! That is hardly a kit, no fuses, fuse holders or anything.

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post #24 of 31 Old 06-18-2012, 10:37 AM
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My nitrous line is 15' and has no extra length.

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post #25 of 31 Old 06-18-2012, 10:41 AM
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Holy crap! That is a lot for a few terminals and some 1 gauge cable! That is hardly a kit, no fuses, fuse holders or anything.
yeah, no joke. After dealing with the old Taylor kit, I wanted no bs after dealing with hot start issues. fWIW, the wire is 1000 times better than the taylor stuff. But yes, just like this hobby, it's just pissing money down the drain ;-)

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post #26 of 31 Old 06-18-2012, 09:35 PM
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Holy crap! That is a lot for a few terminals and some 1 gauge cable! That is hardly a kit, no fuses, fuse holders or anything.
x2 this kit is a total rip off!!! i could piece a way better kit together using 2/0 and way better ends for less. FYI number 1 awg cable is too small for trunk mount

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post #27 of 31 Old 07-07-2012, 07:13 PM
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Just finished my install - haven't done the wiring yet but it will all be hidden. I've got a false floor in the trunk with the amp, PC, XM Radio tuner, WiFi and GPS under it. It's MDF with some carpeting I found on Amazon. You can still see one of the creases in the carpet, but that will disappear with time.


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post #28 of 31 Old 07-16-2012, 05:22 PM
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can you mount the battery behind the passanger front seat? im doing a rear seat delete and my hatch is full from my custom audio install? could re-build my amp setup but would rather not have to...

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post #29 of 31 Old 07-18-2012, 08:34 PM
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Is it ok to run the cables under the car instead of through the interior?

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post #30 of 31 Old 07-20-2012, 08:17 PM
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I can't see a problem with it as long as they are routed away from any danger and secured very well. I don't know what Nhra rules specify though.

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post #31 of 31 Old 07-20-2012, 08:39 PM
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More! I need More Pics of Installs! Thanks!:joy :
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