Fog light mod question - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 02-25-2012, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Fog light mod question

I did the fog light mod on my 88 GT this morning but noticed that relay jack 30 or the tan/orange wire runs hot. Is this normal for this mod? Safe to put it back together?

I let all lights run for 20 minutes or so and everything seems to be working great now but just a little concerned about putting it back together.

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post #2 of 6 Old 02-25-2012, 04:35 PM
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Since I don't know *which* mod instructions you used, I can't comment on the specific potential problem, but, wires should NOT get hot. This typically indicates one of two things: 1) If localized, it is probably a bad connection (crimp/solder,corroded wire) or 2) if the wire itself is warm throughout it's length, it is too small for the amount of current being carried.

You need to figure out the problem and fix it before re-assembling.

If you post a link to the re-wire you did, that might help.

Andy


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post #3 of 6 Old 02-25-2012, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Andy, thanks for the reply.

This is the fog light mod link.

Mustang GT Fog Light Fix

I checked my connections and the connections seem to be good.

The wire itself does not seem to get hot but the connector and relay around that post seems too hot. Wonder if the relay could be bad.
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post #4 of 6 Old 02-25-2012, 06:35 PM
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Relay should not get hot. Probably bad crimp at slip-on connector on #30. Solder it.

1988 GT, 57k mi, Orig Owner
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post #5 of 6 Old 02-26-2012, 06:48 PM
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When ever you run a relay for a fan, lights, nos bottle heater, etc .. The relay gets warm, it takes the load off the switch. This is the reason for this mod so your wires to your headlight switch don't melt. If you run a fan with no relay you'll find yourself going through switches if power is going through the switch, some people will use the ground side to switch. But the right way is to use a relay.
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post #6 of 6 Old 02-26-2012, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all of you for your help....

I soldered the connector #30 and all is well now.
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