AC wiring help please, it's HOTTT outside!!! - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 12 Old 07-03-2011, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Eleanor68's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (18)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Monee, IL
Posts: 455
Question AC wiring help please, it's HOTTT outside!!!

OK, I charged the system over the weekend. I initially jumpered the relay since there was zero 134 in the line after i had the compressor polished, and replaced all the hoses and stuff. So i know the clutch is working. The relay is brand new, replaced it at the same time the fuel pump relay went bad. After I got the charge up to a reasonable level according to the gauge and ambient temp, I removed the jumper, and put the relay back together. The clutch is still not getting signal from relay. On the relay are the large red wire for power, the black/yellow signal wire to the clutch. What are the other two smaller wires run to? Color is hard to determine, looks tan or yellowish, hard to tell, wondering where to trace them back and see if there is another sensor or switch, or relay somewhere to check....

Thanks,


68 Mustang FB, Eleanor body kit, pepper gray, TCI full chassis frame cradle, 9 inch w 3 link, torque arm, panhard bar, coil overs, wildwood brakes. 427 dart CHI 3v heads, intake
Eleanor68 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 Old 07-03-2011, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Eleanor68's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (18)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Monee, IL
Posts: 455
On the smaller wires at the relay, theres a tan/ lt blue, and also a tan/ yellow. Both tested to have 12-13v when car is running, and ac control is on. There is 12v at the purple wire what I assume is the pressure switch, at the firewall, where the connector has a purple on one side, and the black/yellow and the tan/lt blue on the other side. I continuity checked the terminals of the switch with the plug off, and have continuity across the terminals.
Also, when the car is running, and I jumper the red wire to the black/yellow at the relay, the ac clutch comes on, air starts working, and the electric fan (flex lite 185) kicks on. Wiring for the fan done according to specs for the controller.

I dont know where to look next. Not sure i understand why the two tan wires at the relay both have 12v power, so in essence the relay wont change position unless one of them gets grounded, but then, when is that supposed to happen? another switch or relay elsewhere???


68 Mustang FB, Eleanor body kit, pepper gray, TCI full chassis frame cradle, 9 inch w 3 link, torque arm, panhard bar, coil overs, wildwood brakes. 427 dart CHI 3v heads, intake
Eleanor68 is offline  
post #3 of 12 Old 07-03-2011, 04:09 PM
Registered User
 
ike34's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Waterloo/Cedar Falls, Iowa
Posts: 648
The wire colors arnt exactly that same as what your saying but this should still help.

It sounds like your WOT relay isnt getting ground from the EEC or your have a broken wire.
Here is wiring diagram

1989 LX, 347, Si-Trim 9PSI, RAP E7s, Vortech Intake, AFM B451

Bob Kurgan Tuned 472HP & 500TQ

Last edited by ike34; 07-03-2011 at 04:20 PM.
ike34 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 12 Old 07-03-2011, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Eleanor68's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (18)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Monee, IL
Posts: 455
What aboutthat clutch AC Diode? There was something in the wiring at one point that looked like a bad splice job, i think its gone now...would that have some effect on the circuit? The colors of the diagram are the same as the car. Not sure what the pink/Y, or the pink/Lt Blue wires are supposed to do, but each measures 12v and above when running.

68 Mustang FB, Eleanor body kit, pepper gray, TCI full chassis frame cradle, 9 inch w 3 link, torque arm, panhard bar, coil overs, wildwood brakes. 427 dart CHI 3v heads, intake
Eleanor68 is offline  
post #5 of 12 Old 07-03-2011, 08:15 PM
Registered User
 
ike34's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Waterloo/Cedar Falls, Iowa
Posts: 648
Im not sure that the diode is going to keep the clutch from working but it should be there, its there to protect the circuit when the a/c clutch coil de-energizes. The PK/LB should have 12v like you have because its before the load (a/c clutch) in the circuit. You should not have 12v on the PK/Y, there should be 0v on that wire because its after the load (relay coil) in the circuit. Since you have 12v its telling me that you dont have a ground (complete circuit) in that circuit. Either check for continuity to ground with on that wire, should be 0 ohms or you could try jumping ground to it and see if it works?

1989 LX, 347, Si-Trim 9PSI, RAP E7s, Vortech Intake, AFM B451

Bob Kurgan Tuned 472HP & 500TQ
ike34 is offline  
post #6 of 12 Old 07-04-2011, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Eleanor68's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (18)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Monee, IL
Posts: 455
I'll try it. the diagram shows the wire Pink/Y coming from the EEC, unless Im mistaken. Im concerned that grounding the wire when it shows 12V + will blow a fuse or worse, short out something in the EEC....

If I had 0 Ohms, then it wouldnt have read voltage on it....

68 Mustang FB, Eleanor body kit, pepper gray, TCI full chassis frame cradle, 9 inch w 3 link, torque arm, panhard bar, coil overs, wildwood brakes. 427 dart CHI 3v heads, intake
Eleanor68 is offline  
post #7 of 12 Old 07-04-2011, 12:39 AM
Registered User
 
ike34's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Waterloo/Cedar Falls, Iowa
Posts: 648
Yeah the EEC is giving power and ground. If you unplug the relay is there 12v at the PK/Y wire? There should not be voltage there. Grounding that wire shouldnt hurt anything because there shouldnt be voltage on the PK/Y wire coming from the EEC, the voltage should be coming from the red wire .

1989 LX, 347, Si-Trim 9PSI, RAP E7s, Vortech Intake, AFM B451

Bob Kurgan Tuned 472HP & 500TQ

Last edited by ike34; 07-04-2011 at 12:52 AM.
ike34 is offline  
post #8 of 12 Old 07-04-2011, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Eleanor68's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (18)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Monee, IL
Posts: 455
with the relay unplugged, I believe there is voltage present. I will verify later today. If so, is it, or could it be something in the tune that maybe deleted the function of that wire? The red wire does have voltage when the key is on. That is when I jumped the red and black/yellow to get the compressor spinning to charge it initially. At the clutch cycling pressure switch, with the plug removed and the car not running, i got continuity across the two terminals, where the purple and the black/y-pink/ lt blue wires are at the plug. I assume then that there is at least enough of a charge there to allow the circuit to work from that standpoint. The diagram mentions something about closing at 45 psi and some other stuff. I dont believe I got the charge to quite that level when i was charging it. Still doesnt answer why the #331 wire pk/y has voltage on it....

68 Mustang FB, Eleanor body kit, pepper gray, TCI full chassis frame cradle, 9 inch w 3 link, torque arm, panhard bar, coil overs, wildwood brakes. 427 dart CHI 3v heads, intake
Eleanor68 is offline  
post #9 of 12 Old 07-12-2011, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Eleanor68's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (18)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Monee, IL
Posts: 455
anymore input

Is the pink yellow wire supposed to be grounded or have a voltage? Can anyone please tell me how this circuit is supposed to work, where on the car to look for checking points for ground or voltage, and simply, what i need/can do to get the air working correctly?

Is it possible with the Kurgan tune, something got missed somewhere and that pink/y wire is not functioning correctly?

68 Mustang FB, Eleanor body kit, pepper gray, TCI full chassis frame cradle, 9 inch w 3 link, torque arm, panhard bar, coil overs, wildwood brakes. 427 dart CHI 3v heads, intake
Eleanor68 is offline  
post #10 of 12 Old 07-13-2011, 05:07 PM
Authorized corral.net Advertiser
 
Trader Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Braselton, GA
Posts: 3,684
i checked the tune and that area has NOT been touched..


PLEASE EMAIL --->
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
<--- DO NOT PM for prices or tuning!

815-669-RACE (7223) <--- Sales

Please visit our e-store --->
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
<---

Chicagolands largest Vortech dealer since 2006!

We stock many parts! If you dont see it, just ask!

Before you buy ANY mustang part, give us a chance. We accept mastercard and visa.
Authorized SCT, AEM, Diablosport, Vortech, Paxton, BS3, FAST, UPR, PA Racing, Harland Sharp, Team Z, GMS, Trickflow, Kooks, and MANY MORE!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
flyin_hawaiin is offline  
post #11 of 12 Old 07-13-2011, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Eleanor68's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (18)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Monee, IL
Posts: 455
Cool, thanks for that input. at least i can look elsewhere to try and narrow it down...

68 Mustang FB, Eleanor body kit, pepper gray, TCI full chassis frame cradle, 9 inch w 3 link, torque arm, panhard bar, coil overs, wildwood brakes. 427 dart CHI 3v heads, intake
Eleanor68 is offline  
post #12 of 12 Old 07-30-2011, 12:19 AM
Registered User
 
GUNRUNINPONY's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (13)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: CONROE,TX
Posts: 574
In your original post you had an operating A/C with the pressure switch jumpered, and it quit when you actually plugged it back in. That would lead me to believe you have a bad pressure switch. Just my opinion.

A wise man once said "It's better to remain silent and appear ignorant, rather than speak and remove doubt!

91 GT, TT 306,TFS 170's, Track Heat,60lb inj, 150 shot, 3.27's, setting up for nice dd with Maximum Motorsport suspension.
GUNRUNINPONY is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Changing the hatch wiring from 1989 to 1992 sozzyber General Mustang Tech 3 04-24-2011 09:32 PM
Automotive wiring literature? 5.0calypso93lx AEM EMS 4 04-19-2011 07:44 AM
For Sale Complete Dry Nitrous kit, including WOT box and all wiring LTZ MACH Power Adders 8 02-22-2011 02:06 PM
anyone made their own wiring harness? bolt-on-bandito General Mustang Tech 0 12-31-2010 01:06 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome