Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Baytown, TX USA
For maximum 60 ft with an auto, it is best to leave just barely above idle, then stab it hard. Basically this is called flashing the converter. In my car I have a 3200 rpm converter and I used to have a PI 2800 similar to yours. I found the sweet spot would be to hold the brakes and stall the car up to about 12-1300 rpm or so, then stab it when the lights go green.
Explain how your brakes are working. Are the front wheels rolling forward, or being pushed forward and locked up. If they are rolling, then you definitely need to do something about the brakes.
Other than that stuff, once you get to a point where you are spinning a little, or even now really, get a set of 90/10 drag struts up front. I assume you're still running the four cylinder springs up there which are good for drag racing, however the rear springs are probably too weak. The rear of the car needs to be fairly stiff to minimize squat. When the rear of the car squats, then it has nothing to do but bounce back up and when it bounces back up, you'll lose traction. I saw a video of my car proving this very point. Install a set of air bags in the rear springs and adjust them accordingly to stiffen up the rear.
Now look at getting some weight off the front of the car, move the battery to the rear, go to a manual steering rack, remove the a/c stuff, cruise control stuff, get a fiberglass hood, k-member, etc...
With a 2800 stall and appropriate suspension work in a 3100-3200 lb car, you should be cutting low 1.7x sixty foots on drag radials, if not better. I was cutting mid 1.6x on drag radials with my PI converter at 2800, but my motor probably makes a little more low end torque than you do.
Carl S.: 417", Yates C3s, Edelbrock 2828, Dominator, Powerglide, 4.10s, 3100 lbs raceweight. 1.27 60' [email protected]
nitrous on 275/60 Mickeys in Ultra trim
2014 Ruby Red GT Auto, bone stock for now