Drag Alignment, KEVIN$, John91coupe/ others pls help - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 04-17-2003, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Drag Alignment, KEVIN$, John91coupe/ others pls help

Hi. I'll list my suspension mods below and I was hoping someone could chime in and tell me what I should be looking for when I take the stang to an alignment shop.

Things like toe in, camber, pinion angle, preload etc will all be helpful.

Of course I will have to do some fine adjusting while at the track, but I need a good baseline to start off of.

Car should weigh around 2800 to 2900 with me in it

28x10.5 ET drag out back
165/R50 in the front, 25.5" overall diameter
Weld 15x8" rear, weld 15x3.5" front
Also 10 pt cage and subframe connectors through the floor and torque boxes done

FRONT SUSPENSION:

Lakewood 90/10 struts
Eiback drag launch springs
Ride height around 1" lower than stock
Hotchkis Camber/Caster adjustable plates
All accesories removed from front, it's very light, alum heads, alum rad, no power steering or anything
A-arms, and k-member are stock for now
No swaybar


REAR SUSPENSION :

Note, I'm running a full spool
Eibach Drag launch springs with air bag on the right
Comp Engineering 3 way shocks (set at 50/50 for now)
UPR upper and lower control arms with spherical rod ends in the front and spherical solid housing bushings, ALL BUSHINGS ARE METAL AND NOT URETHANE
car sits higher in the back than in the front due to 28" tires
At the moment I am not running a sway bar in the rear, but I plan on using a upr drag style swaybar.

I assume I should have the rear tire adjusted to sit in the middle, lowers are adjustible.

thanks for any input.


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Beaters: '85 GT, '89 LX
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post #2 of 9 Old 04-20-2003, 10:57 AM
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alignment

Zero camber, 1/16 toe in, get as much caster as you can but keep both sides equal. Only add preload if you need it.
Jon http://www.tubechassisdesignz.com

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post #3 of 9 Old 04-20-2003, 08:07 PM
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Sorry I can't be any help here, I let the alignment shop take care of that.

D-2R ProCharged R302 331, 1.393 60 ft, 5.868 @ 123.119, 8.953 @ 155.80, 3400 lbs (with me), MM&FF Feature June 2003
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post #4 of 9 Old 04-21-2003, 11:34 AM
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Camber will also depend on how much the car keeps the nose up while going down the track. I have to run approx. -1.5 degrees of camber to make sure the wheels are straight up (0 like stated above)while going down the track.

2003 NMRA P/S #5
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post #5 of 9 Old 04-21-2003, 08:48 PM
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hmm, what about a car with, no power steering? Putting as much castor as possible will be harder to turn. I set mine at factory specs, i forgot what they are now, been so long. I know i would leave some neg camber in front for reason stated above.

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post #6 of 9 Old 04-22-2003, 09:45 PM
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alignment

The wheel will only be hard to turn when the car is not moving. you cant turn the wheel on a funnycar when it is not moving, but when it is moving its is effortless.

Jon http://www.tubechassisdesignz.com
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post #7 of 9 Old 07-09-2003, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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can most alignment shops work with adjustible rear control arms ?

Rotating the Earth 1320 feet at a time.

Beaters: '85 GT, '89 LX
http://www.damnthatsfast.ca
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post #8 of 9 Old 07-09-2003, 02:15 PM
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They can if you let them but I would talk to the actual person doing it b/c all of the mechanics that I know who don't race know nothing about what's to be done or expected when adjusting them. You want to make sure that the guy fully understands about the potential for adding preload (which may be adjusted out later) when messing with the bars. You should be ok if you talk the the guy and you feel comfortable with him..

Good Luck!
ks


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post #9 of 9 Old 07-09-2003, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Kevin,
always a pleasure !

Rotating the Earth 1320 feet at a time.

Beaters: '85 GT, '89 LX
http://www.damnthatsfast.ca
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