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1/8th Miles Times With E7 Heads

4K views 22 replies 7 participants last post by  Mr.Blue 
#1 ·
8.730 @ 81.63
2.005 60ft.

8.197 @ 87.98 with 75 dry shot
1.975 60ft.

Stock Bottom End
Stock Cam
E7 Heads w/ 1.7 Rockers
Performer RPM1
70mm TB
3in. Inlet Tube
76mm Meter
Stock Airbox w/ KN filter
1 5/8th Equal Length Short Headers
X-Pipe
Chambered Mufflers

10-Way Adjustable Front and Rear
Front Coilovers 150lb. 12in. Springs
Stock Rear Springs, 1/2 coil cut
Tubular Rear Control Arms
Subframe Connectors
Torque Box Reinforcements
8-Point Cage

T5Z
Spec Stage 1 Clutch
Good Clutch Cable
21lb. Iron Flywheel
4.10 Gear
275/60/15 NT555R

245hp and 280 ft.lbs on the motor.

Driven 80 miles to the track, raced, and driven back. Great turnout to my first time at a drigstrip. Very happy with the numbers. Will update as I get faster. Thanks for looking.
 
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#2 ·
Nice times! Get that 60' down and you should easily have a low 8. Get true slicks or a clutch tamer. My best 60' so far is 1.72 with an all stock engine at 3270#
 
#4 ·
Thank you, next time will be better for sure. What tires did you use when you cut the 1.72? Anything done to the suspension at that time?
 
#5 ·
This is the goal here, and cracking 7s in the 1/8th on the nitrous is another goal. Any tire recommendations to achieve a 1.6 60ft?
 
#12 ·
Local guy runs one in a Dodge Demon SBM and I think G-force T5 with 30x9 Hoosier slicks-and it flat works. 1.4X 60', he runs 6.40's in that car. Lakewood bell, Ford disk, Mopar flywheel, Mopar pressure plate (diaphragm). Kind of a mess of parts but it works. MOPAR=Miscellaneous Oddball Parts Assembled Ridiculously (and in this case it fits!). Side stepping the clutch at 5000 on slicks resulted in a bog and inconsistent reaction times (and broken part). Clutch tamer helped all of that. Ive considered putting one in my 4 cylinder car and running it in the local stick shift bracket race class. Diaphragm clutch only (rules). I'm sure there's other options but I think for quite a few the clutch tamer or something similar is probably a less expensive option.
 
#13 ·
@sluggish88, you're doing well...
agree with the others, swap to a slick and you'll be banging on the door of 7's.
no experience with the clutch tamer.

For comparison...

8.235 @ 82.945 (~2400' d/a... forget, could look that up if you want)
1.73 60ft. (best was a 1.69, but typical was 1.71-1.73)

Stock Bottom End
Stock Cam
Stock E7 Heads
Stock HO intake
Stock TB
76mm Meter
Stock Airbox w/ KN filter
1 5/8th long tubes
H-Pipe
Chambered Mufflers

Stock/original suspension, bushings and all.
Subframe Connectors
air bag in the passengers rear
No weight reduction... 3250lbs

Stock T5
Hays clutch (puck style)
Stock Clutch Cable
Stock Flywheel
4.10 Gear
26x10.5 DOTs

232hp and 292 ft.lbs on the motor.

Driven 57 miles to the track, raced, and driven back... this was back in '03.
 
#15 ·
Thanks for the info! 232hp to the tires? That higher than I would have expected. Is that with the stock tune?
 
#14 ·
Looks like no more race days for me this year until next year. I'll be getting some slicks over the winter and doing some other small upgrades to easily dip into the 7's (1/8th mile) with a stock block and my trusty E7s. Still on the fence about the clutch tamer. Definitely not denying that it works, as it's a device that has clearly worked for others, but time will tell if its a piece that will fall in line with my build. Thanks all for the suggestions. Other close to stock combos appreciated for comparisons.
 
#17 ·
@;10 hp from cleaning the maf? Wow! Can you go into some detail on the "optimizing/verifying"
 
#18 ·
Well, I was not the brains behind that...
We played with timing (15* was best for my car on AZ gas) and fuel pressure (turned out stock pressure was best).
Did a lot of monkeying with TPS... don't recall but I think we ended up at 960... but I believe that was secondary... think the fooling around was more about how it was acting as the throttle was open/opening... ??
While doing so, we we able to determine the TFI and coil were not performing well... so, new FoMoCo ones were swapped.
Just basic "tune-up" stuff.
 
#19 ·
I wanted to update my thread because I am back at the racetrack after a few years hiatus and ran some personal bests at my local 1/8th mile track my first time back out. I have done quite a few things since then. I slowed down a bit on the motor but picked way up on the nitrous. And I broke into the 7s!

Ran a best of 8.91 @ 79.43 on the motor that night, best 60ft. 2.00 that night

Ran a best of 7.66 @ 92.03 on a 100 Shot of Nitrous (51,24), best 60ft. 1.70 ever for me

The combo is still very similar, not much to it, but ill break it down:


Stock Bottom End
Stock Cam
E7 Heads w/ 1.7 Rockers, TFS Valve Springs
Performer RPM1
75mm TB
3.5in. Inlet Tube
94 Mustang GT 70mm Meter
Large Cone Filter
1 5/8th Longtube Headers
Full 3in. Exhaust with X-pipe
3in. Straight through mufflers

Team Z Tubular K Member
Team Z Tubular A Arms
10-Way Adjustable Front and Rear
Front Coilovers 150lb. 12in. Springs
Team Z Rear Drag Springs
Team Z Rear Lower Control Arms
No Name Tubular Uppers
Subframe Connectors
Torque Box Reinforcements
8-Point Cage

T5Z
Spec Stage 1 Clutch
Same Clutch Cable
21lb. Iron Flywheel
3.31 Gear
275/60/15 Mickey Thompson ET Street R

I have not dynoed in this configuration. I went from a 4.10 to a 3.31 because between 2019 and now this car had a turbo system on it, which I ended up removing. I replaced it with some NOS Pro Shot noids and a healthy -6 main line, along with a "special" nitrous nozzle from Nitrous Supply. So with these times I am very happy and I will get even faster from here and continue my journey. Many of you on this forum, in this community, are my inspiration. Thanks for reading and thanks for your interest in the slow builds too.

 
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#20 ·
Get some 26" slicks, and a bigger mass air meter, it'll help a lot.
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the suggestions superirish. I am going to hold off on putting a slick on it anytime soon. All the fellas that I know that run slicks break axles and diffs so I am using a bias ply drag radial to try and prevent that hard hit. It is working well for my power level, 1.7 60ft. even with high psi in the tires. Next outing I'll lower psi to try and cut a 1.6x

I just got an 80mm MAF this week and put it on. Car runs a bit worse at lower speeds below 2000rpm but really likes everything above 2000 rpm. Don't really know the reason. I tried swapping electronics from my 70 to the 80 and it runs the same. Car seems to like the 70 for low speeds, as it bucks a bit less when putting around the parking lot or pulling into garage.

I have a 90 TB on order and a list of things to do to try and go faster next outing. Thanks for you interest in the build, I think we follow each other on Instagram, I am @_bigjames_highdensity on there.
 
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#22 ·
That's the point of a slick the soft sidewall doesn't transfer the shock to the driveline like the drag radial does. the sidewall of the radial is stiffer, and they usually work best with an auto car, and a stick car will work better with a slick. I've seen more carnage at the track from drag radials than I have slicks, especially the low profile radials where there's very little sidewall.
 
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