NEW TO NITROUS - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 10-05-2019, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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NEW TO NITROUS

89 Hatch, stock bottom end (oil pan has never been off), Twisted Wedge heads, custom cam, C4 with brake, 4.10 gear. My Son and I just finished the car in June. Built it to run mid 12s, but with some suspension tweaking and putting the car on a diet, we have run a best of 11.85 @ 111mph with a 1.53 60í. We feel weíve squeezed everything we can get out of the 170k 302. We are planning on adding nitrous, but have no experience with it. Plans are for a wet kit, progressive controller, adjustable timing retard module (we have a MSD 6AL, MSD billet dist). My Son already ordered the Edelbrock nitrous kit, question is what controller should we use? What timing retard to use? We were thinking a micro switch on the throttle, wired to a relay so the nitrous/progressive controller only activates when the transbrake is release? Looking for advise.

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post #2 of 21 Old 10-05-2019, 08:33 PM
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Never engage the Nitrous below 3,000 rpm, and you must be at WOT as well. Figure 1-2* of timing retard on the first 100 hp shot and an addition 1* or so retard for every 50 hp on top of that. If you can swing it, have the wet part of the Nitrous system have it's own fuel source and pump, preferably using race fuel. C-16 is formulated for Nitrous.


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post #3 of 21 Old 10-05-2019, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Never engage the Nitrous below 3,000 rpm, and you must be at WOT as well. Figure 1-2* of timing retard on the first 100 hp shot and an addition 1* or so retard for every 50 hp on top of that. If you can swing it, have the wet part of the Nitrous system have it's own fuel source and pump, preferably using race fuel. C-16 is formulated for Nitrous.
We launch at 3500rpm on the 2step as it sits now (converter stalls at 3800 without the 2step), so staying above 3k wonít be an issue with the micro switch installed on the throttle @ WOT. Was also looking for opinions on what retard module to use, and what progressive controller to use?
Thanks
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post #4 of 21 Old 10-06-2019, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by flcracker9 View Post
We launch at 3500rpm on the 2step as it sits now (converter stalls at 3800 without the 2step), so staying above 3k wonít be an issue with the micro switch installed on the throttle @ WOT. Was also looking for opinions on what retard module to use, and what progressive controller to use?
Thanks
I would start with a max of 125shot you can move up but 125 is safe and you will have a great time on it it for you break something.

I use Nitrous Express they are a great company just call them a guy will answer that lives in TX not another country and tell you about his car if you ask. Customer services is great I have had 2 problems over the years both were big and they were 100% great to deal with. I have called them I would say 25 times over the years and they answered all my questions.

I use the maximizer 4 they have the 5 out now. It will do anything you need it to but you can buy a lower end one to do just what you need. If it was me and my son I would buy the 5 for sure so we could have a ton of fun learning about how to use it all and play on the computer. But for now my kid is only 6yrs old.
https://www.nitrousexpress.com/Progr...s-Controllers/

I use the MSD 6 plus it will do a ton of cool stuff also.
When I turn on my Nitrous the timing goes down to what I want through the MSD and the 2 step also comes on.
I even have mine setup so I can flip another switch and the 2 step comes on but the timing doesn't fall off for N/A pulls.

Those 2 paired together can make for a fun toy.

After a 125shot I would really say go second fuel cell also. I run NO2 fuel

Don't forget you will need a cooler plug also.

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post #5 of 21 Old 10-06-2019, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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I would start with a max of 125shot you can move up but 125 is safe and you will have fun

I use the MSD 6 plus it will do a ton of cool stuff also.
When I turn on my Nitrous the timing goes down to what I want through the MSD and the 2 step also comes on.
I even have mine setup so I can flip another switch and the 2 step comes on but the timing doesn't fall off for N/A pulls.

Those 2 paired together can make for a fun toy.

After a 125shot I would really say go second fuel cell also. I run NO2 fuel

Don't forget you will need a cooler plug also.
Thanks for the reply Str8ballar, we planned on starting with a 150 shot (the Edelbrock kit goes from 100 - 250), but maybe weíll start with 100, and work our way up. I do like they way you have yours set up to where it retards when you arm the nitrous, but that would require a new ignition box for us. Iíll sit down and weigh the costs of adding a retard module vs buying a new box, and I think Iíll take your advice and contact Nitrous Express and get their thoughts. I know thereís no exact answer, but any idea how much a 125 shot would lower our ET? Our Hatch weighs in at 2900lbs with driver, and we are high 11s N/A
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post #6 of 21 Old 10-06-2019, 10:55 AM
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I find this one to be the most accurate.

ET-MPH-HP Calculator

your 350hp

so 100 would put you at. 10.8 at 125mph

Keep in mind you maxing the block out or real close and the extra exhaust gases. 150 will really be pushing it start small have fun its easy to move up.

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post #7 of 21 Old 10-06-2019, 01:54 PM
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The cheapest progressive controller out there is the NOS mini controller. It also includes a window switch. You can use it with a micro switch or a tps in put. It has a handheld controller so you can remote mount the module and leave the controller in the glove box. It has 2 stages you can setup. Does not require a laptop to tune. It has reset or resume progressive function... so if you have it on resume and have to pedal the car it will pick up your progressive ramp where ever it left off. If lets say you have a stick car you can have the ramp reset every gear change so it doesnt blow the tires off.

For the progressive portion i always try to get it all in as fast as possible according to traction. If it will take it all off the line great. In that case just do a small ramp of lets say 0 to 100% over .010 or .100 just to soften the hit on the motor a bit. If you really want to be safe use a .500 sec ramp or more. On the flip side, dont do a 5 or 6sec ramp. The solenoids really aren't made for that and the amount of pulsing the PWM controller will be giving the solenoids will give u unwanted results.

It also has a delay function so if you’re on the limit of traction now put it 1.2-1.6 sec delay on activation so you’re out by the 60’ when the ramp starts.

Like was mentioned above dont start the nitrous window switch under 3,000. Set the upper limit a couple hundred rpm under your rev limiter so you dont bounce it off the limiter spaying. Things can go boom like that.

You’re going to need an interrupt relay with your transbrake. Since you leave the line over 3,000 and you’re foot to the floor, you essentially will be spraying nitrous sitting at the line. You need an interrupt relay on the trigger wire so when you have the t-brake button pushed it interrupts the activation signal. As soon as you let go of the t-button the activation signal returns and spays you off the line or starts the ramp.

Interrupt relay:
85= ground
86= t-brake side of t-brake button ( to receive 12v)
30= From Micro switch
87a= NOS activation wire

This will keep the path of the micro switch to the Nitrous controller normal until you hit the button and breaks the circuit.
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post #8 of 21 Old 10-06-2019, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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The cheapest progressive controller out there is the NOS mini controller. Youíre going to need an interrupt relay with your transbrake. Since you leave the line over 3,000 and youíre foot to the floor, you essentially will be spraying nitrous sitting at the line. You need an interrupt relay on the trigger wire so when you have the t-brake button pushed it interrupts the activation signal. As soon as you let go of the t-button the activation signal returns and spays you off the line or starts the ramp.

Interrupt relay:
85= ground
86= t-brake side of t-brake button ( to receive 12v)
30= From Micro switch
87a= NOS activation wire

This will keep the path of the micro switch to the Nitrous controller normal until you hit the button and breaks the circuit.

Thanks GTO44, lots of good info there. A interrupt relay was in the plan, as was a rpm switch to kill the nitrous prior to hitting the rev limiter. Iíll take a look at the mini controller, sounds like it will do what we need. I donít know how to attach a video, but if the link works, this is where we are at with no power adders. We built it to run mid 12s, but it has exceeded our expectations, and now that we have leveled off, like most, we want to go to the next level.

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post #9 of 21 Old 10-06-2019, 04:26 PM
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All good stuff. Make sure you run new plugs for the nitrous and read them after each pass til you get it dialed in.

If you don't have a wideband I'd highly recommend getting the aem digital wideband as well for safety. Some of the nitrous controllers will also interface with the wideband as well so check them out first.

nitrous gets addictive so expect to spend a small fortune on refilling bottles.

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post #10 of 21 Old 10-06-2019, 06:25 PM
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Let me spend all your money.
I use NGK non projected plugs. The soft ground strap acts like a fuse.
A -8 should be plenty cold for up to 150 shot.

I use the NOS mini controller and 2 small kits. The first activated by a wot switch
the second a button on the shift handle. At 150 total I use no ramps,or delays
170 ish+ needs some delays. Mine is a pump gas street car,that stays in the 150-185 horse range.
I use a nitrous outlet stand alone with C-16.

I use a MSD 3 step retard.

You need to think about where you are going to mount your bottle.
Mine is directly behind the passenger seat. This eliminates the need for a bottle opener
and shortens up the feed line a little.




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post #11 of 21 Old 10-06-2019, 06:32 PM
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To keep bottle pressure consistent you will need a heater,transducer,gauge.
A inline filter is a good idea.



I use a nitrous outlet 1/4 turn shutoff.



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post #12 of 21 Old 10-06-2019, 06:37 PM
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Don't forget a purge.

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post #13 of 21 Old 10-06-2019, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Don't forget a purge.
Thanks for helping me spend my money, lol. Iím pretty sure weíre gonna mount the bottle in the hatch area, will have to think about that one. I do like the 1/4 turn shutoff you have, and the filter, gonna have to invest those. We already have a purge. I do have a question for you, the mini controller says to wire it to the TPS, but we are running a carb, so would running it to a WOT switch work the same?
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post #14 of 21 Old 10-06-2019, 10:25 PM
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Don't forget a purge.
Thanks for helping me spend my money, lol. I’m pretty sure we’re gonna mount the bottle in the hatch area, will have to think about that one. I do like the 1/4 turn shutoff you have, and the filter, gonna have to invest those. We already have a purge. I do have a question for you, the mini controller says to wire it to the TPS, but we are running a carb, so would running it to a WOT switch work the same?
Trigger 1 and trigger 2 on the NOS mini controller will accept a TPS signal or a micro switch. For the micro switch you can use either a ground or 12v feed. Pretty clever little device for the money.
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post #15 of 21 Old Yesterday, 05:33 AM
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A few other things you might need/want. A low fuel pressure switch. I use a nitrous outlet low pressure adjustable. (carb.)



And a blowdown fitting,tube/line. I use a -8 to -4an reducer,braided line and bulkhead fitting on the floor.

Nice vid,car looks great !

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post #16 of 21 Old Yesterday, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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A few other things you might need/want. A low fuel pressure switch. I use a nitrous outlet low pressure adjustable.

Nice vid,car looks great !
Thanks for all the tips, and the complement. My Son and I took this car from a complete rust bucket, to what it is now. All paint and bodywork was done by me at home in my back yard, all suspension, engine & rear end (ring & pinion, c-clip eliminators & Strange axles) mods were done by us. About the only thing I didnít built was the C4. My Sonís a diesel mechanic by trade, never raced, and I havenít raced since the late eighties. Heís getting pretty good with the reverse valve body/transbrake combo, and cutting pretty good lights. Heís definitely having fun, and I enjoy wrenching on it. Just time to take it to the next level
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post #17 of 21 Old Yesterday, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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A few other things you might need/want. A low fuel pressure switch. I use a nitrous outlet low pressure adjustable. (carb.)



And a blowdown fitting,tube/line. I use a -8 to -4an reducer,braided line and bulkhead fitting on the floor.

Nice vid,car looks great !
Iím assuming the tank in your pic is your separate fuel cell for your nitrous system (for the NO2)? What size is it, and what pump are you using?
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post #18 of 21 Old Yesterday, 10:24 PM
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Iím assuming the tank in your pic is your separate fuel cell for your nitrous system (for the NO2)? What size is it, and what pump are you using?
https://www.nitrousexpress.com/stand...ator-15003.asp

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post #19 of 21 Old Today, 02:49 AM
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Iím assuming the tank in your pic is your separate fuel cell for your nitrous system (for the NO2)? What size is it, and what pump are you using?

Yes. The tank is 8''x6''x6'' so about 1 gallon ? More then enough capacity,full tank will outlast several 10 or 15 lb. bottles. (I only fill about 2/3)
Pump is a internal,255 lph. No doubt the price is hefty. The small,light weight packaging with good parts,made it worth it to me.

https://nitrousoutlet.com/i-30559894...el-system.html

They have at least 2 sales a year. Christmas and Christmas in July,that's when i grabbed one.
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post #20 of 21 Old Today, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Yes. The tank is 8''x6''x6'' so about 1 gallon ? More then enough capacity,full tank will outlast several 10 or 15 lb. bottles. (I only fill about 2/3)
Pump is a internal,255 lph. No doubt the price is hefty. The small,light weight packaging with good parts,made it worth it to me.

https://nitrousoutlet.com/i-30559894...el-system.html

They have at least 2 sales a year. Christmas and Christmas in July,that's when i grabbed one.
That's pretty slick! I'm not rich, but I may have to have one of those! How do you have yours wired? does the pump come on when you arm the nitrous, or via WOT switch?
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post #21 of 21 Old Today, 11:11 AM
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That's pretty slick! I'm not rich, but I may have to have one of those! How do you have yours wired? does the pump come on when you arm the nitrous, or via WOT switch?
Arm Nitrous

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