Suspension aligningnment - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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Old 12-11-2018, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Suspension aligningnment

So the pickle I’m in with installing the rear outlaw kit is simply because the front k member is not straight in the chassis, causing the rear to stick out 1/2” on passengers side and driver side rear wheel almost touching the bumper.
E4BC8C71-A8B9-403F-B5AC-524D395C7CF8_1544564121147.jpg
A0F0A361-1AEA-43B5-A99C-117274FC354C_1544564103511.jpg
I also used the front lca bolt mounts to measure the k member and found it to be 3/8” shorter on the driver side.
1E9146FC-450D-4689-BE97-3B3E7EED88B5_1544565871191.jpg
No doubt I’m going to have to square up the front in order to align the rear, if I can move the k member forward on the drivers side, or back on the passenger side, it should move the front wheel centered in the wheel well and kick over the rear suspension. The problem is, it’s a upr front k and I’ve read many posts that says they aren’t adjustable, at least without modifications. I was hoping to raise the engine to take weight off the front, loosening all the bolts and somehow slide it back into square. I should note that at this point the car is aligned, even with a crooked k member, and the rear is currently square to the front. Anyone have luck with the upr front k being adjusted? Or is this going to be a scenario where I have to drop it out, slot holes and reinstall?

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Old 12-11-2018, 06:24 PM
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I don't know about the UPR stuff, but I put a QA1 K-member in the racecar, installed coil-overs on the front, took the car to a premium alignment shop and told then to set the alignment with zero toe, max caster and near zero camber, all with the front end up about 3 inches from normal ride height to simulate the attitude of the nose of the car as it is traveling down track at WOT. Also requested was to make sure the rear end was dead straight in the chassis. End result is a car that goes dead nuts straight even at 160+ mph.


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Old 12-11-2018, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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I’m pretty impressed actually, how crooked it is yet still aligned straight and drove straight. I spent all day measuring, confirming the rear axle was true to the front, yet so out of whack in the rear.
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Old 12-11-2018, 07:35 PM
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Going straight just means the caster is roughly the same on each front wheel. There may be "more" in it with proper alignment. But there could also be "less" in it too....so be careful.

What some may/don't know is that sometimes there's some ET improvement in staggering the front wheels, i.e., one wheel set farther forward than the other. Lot of dragsters were/are doing this. They drive straight as an arrow with essentially a different wheelbase from left to right sides.

Wheel sticking out one side or the other may or may not be an alignment issue. Could just be the rear not quite centered, OR the body may not be "perfect"--and I've run into this a time or two. My Maverick's rear wheels, one side is a little further inset than the other, yet it's within 1/32" (as close as I could get it) corner to corner. Also dependent is where you measure from. On mine, I still have the stock front frame rails and I use the alignment "holes" in the subframe to measure from, as they're supposed to be the point at which the car is mostly "built" from the get-go. I know I've seen good alignment shops use different reference points, and on mine they used those holes.

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Old 12-11-2018, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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Consider me informed, maybe there is science in staggering the wheels, but I believe this is just too far out of whack to believe that’s the case.

I kicked around the idea of using different points on the frame to align the rear end to the chassis, therefore I really wouldn’t have to move the front at all. This may seem reasonable, except I have no idea if ANYTHING is symmetrical on the car in order to triangulate the rear.

I’m open to options and opinions, but I feel the correct way to do this is make the front k straight with the chassis, align the rear, and get the front end realigned by adjusting caster. I’ve read too many threads that say the front k is a bolt in deal, no aligning necessary....except when it’s used to align the rear axle, then it causes the above issues.
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Old 12-11-2018, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Just wondering if there was any adjustment built into the upr unit or I’m gonna have to deal with what I got.
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Old 12-12-2018, 08:49 AM
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Drop a plumb bob off of the left and right frame rails in the front and back of the car. Then measure and find the center in the front and the back, strike a line through these marks and that will be the centerline of your car. You can then square your rear off of the centerline.
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Old 12-13-2018, 09:21 AM
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If you make some simple “wood cribbing “ stands it’s super easy to square up and center your rear.
I made these off of some ideas I found on the web.



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Old 12-13-2018, 12:29 PM
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Awesome idea and nice ride!!

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Old 12-13-2018, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprayn383 View Post
If you make some simple “wood cribbing “ stands it’s super easy to square up and center your rear.
I made these off of some ideas I found on the web.



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Old 12-15-2018, 04:56 AM Thread Starter
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So I started my long weekend of squaring everything by using a plumb bob, jacked up car (on rear axle) and metric tape measure. By using the plumb bob, I made a mark on the floor at the lower control arm front bolt. I then measured forward 1220mm (about 4’) and made a referencing mark on the subframe connector. Since I can’t use anything on the front suspension to align the rear, I needed to make a referencing point. I then hung the plumb bob over the outside wheel flange to make a 3rd set of marks. This is the measurements I got up to this point.
589DADDA-210C-40A8-A597-7BE699617A89_1544867345446.jpg
Even though the right side lower control arm to axle flange is 9mm longer, the left side 4’ forward to axle flange is 7mm longer. So basically I’m within 2mm square which I believe is acceptable at this point. Like suggested though, none of these measurements are important without finding the center of the car. I’ll post those results shortly.

Basically I’m going to make a centerline between the 4’ forward mark and the front lower control arm and that will serve as the “center of the car” once I find the center, I will measure from that center line at the 4’ forward mark and the front lower control arm to the outside axle flange to find out how far out of square it is.
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Old 12-15-2018, 05:31 AM Thread Starter
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Measured the centerline of the car using the above method and got this
4B8858D9-41F0-4078-BBF6-03C3B1DC4578_1544869856203.jpg
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Old 12-15-2018, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
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From what I can see, the axle seems to be “square” looking from the top, to the frame references.

However, after triangulation from the cars centerline at the front lower control arm bolts, I’m showing the right control arm pushing the axle 27mm to the right.

I’m assuming with ~3mm within acceptable range, the axle needs to first be moved to the left (drivers side) until the lower control arm to axle flange equals 850.5mm
That’s the average between both side control arm measurements. Once it’s moved over, I can remeasure the triangulation and see how I have to move the axle forward or rearward to obtain square again.
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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Spent all morning making minor adjustments to upper and lowers, I was able to scoot the axle over and forward back to square.
D5D3489B-07D4-4B05-A0EA-C60CAB0FCFC0_1544906749900.jpg
I found there is little to no adjustment to the front k member, but I’m almost positive I can get the front end realigned to the “newly” squared rear axle using caster adjustments.
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