Swing out bar question - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 11-08-2018, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Swing out bar question

Hi folks I have a Competition Engineering swing out bar kit for my 8 pointer that I'd like to use next year if I get back into going to the drag strip, right now I actually have the bar cut out where it runs along my driver door so I could get in and out much easier (haven't raced the car in a few years so didn't need the bar there). My question is, does the swing out bar kit have to be welded to be legal or can it be bolted in? I can have it welded but bolting it on would allow me to do it myself so I was just wondering what the rules dictate. The set up seems like you could actually drill holes and bolt the swing out bar onto the existing bars to make it work but I obviously want it to pass tech. The car is high 10's/low 11's so the bar is needed at my local track.
Thanks in advance,
Scott

EDIT- my bad, it's a Comp. Engineering swing out bar...


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post #2 of 15 Old 11-08-2018, 12:37 PM
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Pretty sure it can be bolted to floor pan with a pin in the b-pillar. Forgot specs on bolting in, it basically sandwiches the floor pan with 6” or so plates of certain thickness. Sorry if I’m not much help.

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post #3 of 15 Old 11-09-2018, 12:52 AM
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U should be good either bolting or welding for 11 seconds or slower in a convertible think u are good up to 10 seconds or slower in a hard top. For a roll bar. Roll bars are not certified. Then u need a cage.

Plus a 5 point harness. Certified.
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post #4 of 15 Old 11-09-2018, 03:08 PM
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When I had my 8 point chrome moly bar installed, my builder, Steve Brown Race Cars said no for safety reasons, and he said I would hate it. After two seasons now, I know he was right. It would be more of a PITA fooling with that bar, pin and clip after getting in the Kirkey race seat, trying to twist and turn to get it latched. My old bones are not very limber anymore, and I kinda look like Im doing yoga getting in, but it works. Getting out much easier. Just kinda fall out. And Im 70 yo 6 and weigh 220 if that gives you any guidance.

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post #5 of 15 Old 11-09-2018, 04:05 PM
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Whether you bolt it or weld it I would run a bar along the bottom of the floor tying the front portion to the main hoop. This adds some strength to the front mount when the door bar is open. When you swing the bar open the floor pan flexes b/c is so thin. Tying the front mount to the main hoop keeps it from flexing so much.

Here's what I did. I had to run the bar so close to the door sill pad that I made it removable:





ks


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post #6 of 15 Old 11-10-2018, 04:10 AM
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Good call on welding the bottom plates together via tube under the floor pan, they do flex quite a bit!
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post #7 of 15 Old 11-10-2018, 12:18 PM
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If u can tie it into the subframe even better.
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post #8 of 15 Old 11-10-2018, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEVIN$ View Post
Whether you bolt it or weld it I would run a bar along the bottom of the floor tying the front portion to the main hoop. This adds some strength to the front mount when the door bar is open. When you swing the bar open the floor pan flexes b/c is so thin. Tying the front mount to the main hoop keeps it from flexing so much.

Here's what I did. I had to run the bar so close to the door sill pad that I made it removable:





ks
Your whole bar is removeable? I just noticed your bottom pin too!
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post #9 of 15 Old 11-11-2018, 01:28 AM
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Your whole bar is removeable? I just noticed your bottom pin too!
Yep...Makes the car more streetable and easier to work on if I can remove them whenever I want.

ks


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post #10 of 15 Old 11-11-2018, 11:54 AM
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Kevin did a great job with his set up. Could not attach a bar like what he did unless I do the whole thing over again.

There a nut that is under the floor that I can remove that the bar can slip out.

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post #11 of 15 Old 11-14-2018, 03:07 AM
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Mine has the swing out with the pin, but thinking of adding the under floor support. My lower bar link also is sleeved, so once it’s swung out of the way, it can slip out of the joint and fully remove. I believe it’s a older maximum motorsport cage.
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post #12 of 15 Old 11-16-2018, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Good info here, thanks for the responses. I've thought about it some more and I will probably just have someone weld it in there. I like the double-removable option though, so who knows maybe I'll look into that and add the lower bar as well. My bar is indeed welded to the sub frame connectors. Right now it is just sawed off near the top and about six inches from the floor. I drew A crude rendition of what i'm talking about- the red part is what is currently cut out of my bar.
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post #13 of 15 Old 11-16-2018, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott88 View Post
Good info here, thanks for the responses. I've thought about it some more and I will probably just have someone weld it in there. I like the double-removable option though, so who knows maybe I'll look into that and add the lower bar as well. My bar is indeed welded to the sub frame connectors. Right now it is just sawed off near the top and about six inches from the floor. I drew A crude rendition of what i'm talking about- the red part is what is currently cut out of my bar.
Mine was welded in and looked just like your drawing then I cut out the same section as your pic and remade new ones to fit in between the stubs that were left attached to the car. I also capped the stubs off and smoothed the welds so they looked nice when the bar was removed. I didn't cap the side bars b/c I was going to have them chromed and I wanted them to drain during the process.

ks


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post #14 of 15 Old 11-16-2018, 07:38 PM
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What’s the legality on the bars that dip lower on the hip area? Instead of say, a straight shot, couldn’t you have the bar angle downward and be more out of the way?
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post #15 of 15 Old 11-17-2018, 09:01 AM
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99 coupe. C4/8 5000 stall w/2003 Mach crate motor FRPP stock N/A, Kooks LT's and X,dumps no muffs. 4.56's
Best ET 11.42 Best MPH 116.33Best 60" 1.49
Coincidence. A convenient and overused word for the mentally lazy.
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