Aluminum or steel? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 11-02-2018, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Aluminum or steel?

Flywheel, that is. Is there anything to be gained on the street or drag strip with an aluminum flywheel?


CHP/CPR (Coast High Performance) / (Custom Performance Racing Engines)347 lasted a whopping 500 miles due to poor machining, metal debris in main bearings, damaged cam bearing and a balance job that was off 64ozs!
Buyer Beware.
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post #2 of 10 Old 11-02-2018, 12:48 PM
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On a high rpm engine the lighter the better. If under 7K rpm I would stick with the steel. Or if heavy car then use a steel flywheel, a light car should use a aluminum flywheel. The heavier car will need the stored inertia to help get the car moving.


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post #3 of 10 Old 11-02-2018, 01:12 PM
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post #4 of 10 Old 11-05-2018, 08:26 AM
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I put an aluminum wheel on my 2.3 car.

Around town, it accelerates a little faster, decelerates a little faster.

On the highway, it gets about 2 mpg better fuel economy on average. 27 to 29 and change. Still trying to coax 30 out of it. Little turbo engine. The N/A engine managed 34 before it needed to come out.

I haven't had it on the track. Yet. Engine out again due to leaky oil pan. If it ain't one thing it's another on these 2.3's.

Have a Fidanza wheel on my 427, T56 as well. Can't tell much difference between it and a steel wheel other than it seems to free rev a little quicker. With a big heavy crankshaft like the SBF, you don't notice the "typical" differences like needing more RPM and clutch slippage to keep from killing it from a dead stop. I've never noticed that and I've had several SBF's with aluminum wheels. The only time I've really seen a difference was with a circle track style 7" multi-disc clutch and an UL flywheel. VERY quick to rev, also easy to kill it, but that setup was like 12 lbs total including the clutch.

'92GT, 427" and '93 "LXVO" coupe
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post #5 of 10 Old 11-05-2018, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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From what I've read; an aluminum flywheel doesn't have much if any advantage in my situation.

CHP/CPR (Coast High Performance) / (Custom Performance Racing Engines)347 lasted a whopping 500 miles due to poor machining, metal debris in main bearings, damaged cam bearing and a balance job that was off 64ozs!
Buyer Beware.
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post #6 of 10 Old 11-06-2018, 07:02 AM
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It all depends on what you are using it for.... Street or Strip or Both. That's what you have to ask yourself.
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post #7 of 10 Old 11-06-2018, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ZEN357 View Post
It all depends on what you are using it for.... Street or Strip or Both. That's what you have to ask yourself.
Both.

CHP/CPR (Coast High Performance) / (Custom Performance Racing Engines)347 lasted a whopping 500 miles due to poor machining, metal debris in main bearings, damaged cam bearing and a balance job that was off 64ozs!
Buyer Beware.
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post #8 of 10 Old 11-09-2018, 10:43 AM
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Go with the aluminum flywheel, you may have to raise your launch rpm up a few hundred to compensate

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post #9 of 10 Old 11-10-2018, 09:44 PM
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If the flywheel is a 164 tooth then definitely aluminum. I had a 164 tooth steel flywheel in my '69 mustang and couldn't keep the driveshaft in it with sticky tires. The 164 tooth steel flywheel is super heavy. Around 35 pounds. When all that weight is dropped against the transmission from a dead stop 4000 rpm launch things tend to break with sticky tires.

A 157 tooth will be about 10 pounds lighter and will be easier on parts.
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post #10 of 10 Old 11-11-2018, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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I ended up sticking with my billet steel unit. I just couldn't justify another purchase. Thanks for the replies.


CHP/CPR (Coast High Performance) / (Custom Performance Racing Engines)347 lasted a whopping 500 miles due to poor machining, metal debris in main bearings, damaged cam bearing and a balance job that was off 64ozs!
Buyer Beware.
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